This started happening after I changed out the plugs to ngk coppers.... I hope I didn't screw over a coil pack or something =/

It's cold in my area, around 40's now.... When I start the car, it'll start, run for a second and stall, then on the third try and gassing it it'll do fine and after it's run for a while it runs smooth w/ no problems.

This morning it started up, I put it into reverse and was backing out and it shuddered hard and stalled, and as I backed outta the driveway, the revs dropped to about 200, i gave it gas and it did ok, and it kept shuddering.

After it's warm, she's ok.... ideas?

Maintenance done:
1) Good fuel filter
2) NGK coppers
3) tranny fluid changed
4) oil and filter changed
5) pop charger cleaned and reoiled

 

ok....... sum1 post...geez

 

Good connection between plugs and wires? did you use dielectric grease?

I had a similar problem on another car, rough at low speeds because not all the plugs were firing, but fine at higher RPMs. Turned out I had a break in one of the wires.

If this does not work, idle your engine and disconnect one spark plug at a time. If the idle does not change, that plug was not firing...

 

I didn't use di-electric grease, what is it and where can i get it.

I simply put anti seize on the threads of the plug and put em in... please describe in detail what i SHOULD have done.... thanks

 

Few tips on changing spark plugs

Did you check the gap on the plugs?
Did you check to make sure the wires go to the correct plugs?
Did you visually inspect the wires for breaks?

Dielectric grease can be purchaced at any autoparts store. I have a small 9.5 G tube that I bought years ago for about $2. Use this grease between any metal parts that conduct electricity. For example on the tip (not the firing end) of the sparkplug and the socket of the wire. You can also use it for light bulb harness. (If you changes our your headlights, you may have noticed a white grease around the end of the bulb harness, thats it!)

There has to be a website around here with a how to on spark plugs. Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Ummmm - We don't have plug wires in our cars.

Did you take the intake off and forget to tighten it back up? You may be getting air in after the MAF sensor. Check around for a vaccume hose that has come loose.

 

Some of your symptoms sound like MAF problems. Did you over-oil the filter? Remove the filter and see if there's any oil on the MAF. Either way, good luck.

 

I just reoiled the filter... is there any possible way to clean the maf sensor off?.... dayam.

 

Well, you can take the MAF tube off the throttle body (connected to the accordion tube) and check to see if there's any extra oil coating anything. Do a search for MAF failures and you'll see what others have done to correct a problem with oil on the MAF. Good luck, man.

 

I know, but we still have wires to the ignition packs that sit on the plug. These could develop problems as well, especially if you pull on them the wrong way while changing plugs. They do the same as typical plug wires just at a much lower woltage.

 

Ok guys checked a few things...

I pulled the plugs on each of the coil packs, they're fine, they all drop the rpm's and cause the car to shake some..

I took a look at the maf, there's no oil along the inside of the tube, I wasn't too sure what else to look for...

I had a code of 0201, probably due to me pulling the plugs on the coil packs, i reset it and it went away...

Vacuum hoses are fine.... and it only stalls when it's been sitting all night...

 

A list from the Hayes manual:

-Battery low
-faulty coolant temp sensor
-defective MAF
-Idle speed incorrect
-Fuel filter clogged or water in the fuel system
-Ignition damp or damaged
-faulty emissions
-incorrectly gapped plugs
-vacuum leak
-incorrectly set valve clearances

Did you check the plug gaps? Battery?
If not fuel or fuel system problem?

 

hmm the guys at courtesy said my plugs were pregapped.... they are the ngk coppers...

I also talked to Delio and he says the gap isn't that big of a deal since I am NA...

Fuel filter was changed 10k miles ago, with one from autozone thats good for 12k miles..

MAF looks ok.... the sensors listed should throw codes right? I ran the diagnostic and have no codes being thrown now..

Battery is fine

How would I check the fuel system, I doubt it's bad gas, it's the same place I buy gas at normally..

 

ok spark plug is 22401-20J06 nissan part number and NGK BKR6E.... anyone know if it's pregapped for the max?

 

Same thing is happening to me too on my 88 GXE. It takes a little long to start when it's cold (around 10secs or more of cranking). And the idle is @ 800 when I start up, isn't it supposed to be more? I just wait a minute for it to warm up before I try to drive. I have no idea what it is.

 

yeahh, mines been doin that for awhile now. The car won't start on the first initial start but i have to give it a little gas and than its fine. I have no idea what the problem is, i was thinkin it was the air filter but i changed that and it still did it, so i don't know

anu