ßaller

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so I searched and researched on the orgy regarding this issue. I am planning to get all my brake done over the weekend, yes 2 new front axles, 2 wheel seals, complete new brake rotors/pads. I have read about either using new rotors with old pad, or old rotors new pad to properly bed the pad and season the rotors. What I want to know is, have any of you who had replaced both the rotors and pads with new sets at the same time had any issues?

NOw, should I try to season the rotor immediately like the Volvo site says or wait a few days of light braking then season the rotors?

Also I could'nt affor the expensive Motul brake fluid, so I will be using the Valvoline Synpower Dot 4 like I always have with the SS Lines.

I be pimpin in Lowell, MA this Saturday at P&H Auto Repair on Westford Street, if you in the area, holla.

Thanks,
ßaller

karguy

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ßaller
[B]Ok, so I searched and researched on the orgy regarding this issue. I am planning to get all my brake done over the weekend, yes 2 new front axles, 2 wheel seals, complete new brake rotors/pads. I have read about either using new rotors with old pad, or old rotors new pad to properly bed the pad and season the rotors. What I want to know is, have any of you who had replaced both the rotors and pads with new sets at the same time had any issues?

A few months ago I installed new rotors and new pads at the same time. Rotors were X dimpled and slotted and pads were Raybestos QS Ceramics, seasoned pads and rotors that evening. Had a little noise for about 300 miles but they were completely broken in by 700 miles. Took a trip into mountains to see trees at about 1000 miles, brakes and rotors were very quiet with no problems whatsoever. Seasoned brakes by getting car up to 50 then braking moderately till it almost stopped. Then resumed 50 for .3 miles to allow pads and rotors to cool then moderately applied brakes till car almost stopped. I repeated this 20 times and during all of this I never came to a complete stop. Pads came with new self adhesive shims, I applied CRC Anti Squeal to back of pad shims. I removed all caliper pins to check for wear and to lubricate them. My car had 54k on it and I had to replace all 4 of the front caliper pins (they were $23.00 for all 4 at Advance Auto - Pep Boys wanted $19.00 for 2). Rear caliper pins were all okay. Also applied small amount of Synthetic High Temp grease to pad retaining clips to ensure smooth operation. Took calipers off, drained all fluid out and cleaned them with brake cleaning spray. I flushed and bled the brake system. I would borrow tool from car parts store to turn rear rotors clockwise while pushing on them to get rear caliper pistons back in. Hope this helps.

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

I installed my slotted rotors, Axxis Metal Masters, and SS lines all at once on all four corners. I reused my shims since I did this at 30k, and I didn't use any antisqueal compound. To this day I've had no problems or noise

Here was my break-in:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=brake
-hype

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Cars come from the factory with brand new pads and rotors.... basically as long as you drive nicely on them for a few hundred miles, you won't have any problems. Drive like Russ does on a new car and expect to have warped rotors and all kinds of other tranny problems and interior rattles. (all from messing with your brakes... )

and whenever you drive hard on them, treat your car like you do your body on a workout..
warm up, work out, cool down.
the car's the same- warm up the brakes, do your hard driving, then drive 5-10-15 minutes very nicely on them to cool down.

And $12 for brake fluid is not expensive.. If you can't afford it, then don't do the mods. (drink one less case of beer or eat lunch at home instead of going to Wendys for a couple days and it'll be paid for).

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

www.eatricezone.com

direct your questions at Phoung, he will know

redmaxpa007

iTrader: (21)

holla..