EricD Mounts made by sx7r Installed!!! :15 minutes
#1
EricD Mounts made by sx7r Installed!!! :15 minutes
I had no idea this would be so easy
Clutch Chatter: gone
Wheel Hop: gone
Installation:
First we started by putting the car on Jack Stands.. and then using the Jack to support the base of the tranny.
then we removed the front center 17mm motor mount bolt and nut...
next we took off the driver's side front wheel to get access to the rear center 17 mm motor mount bolt.. once the wheel was off.. we removed the rear 17 mm bolt..
then we used 10 mm socket to remove the platic tabs below and then proceeded to remove the cross member..
using the 17 mm socket again.. we removed the 2 front cross member bolts.. and then both the rear 17 mm cross member bolts..
then the cross member dropped nice and easily..
with the cross member dropped.. we used the 17 mm socket to remove the front and rear motor mounts.. and then bolted up the new motor mounts..
then once the new ones were bolted up.. we took the cross member back to the car..
its important to line up the rear cross member and mount first.. once lined up.. we screwed the rear cross member bolts in half way..
then we caught the front cross member bolts half way also..
once the cross member was partially bolted up and lose.. then we played with the jack up and down with it as support for the engine and then caught the 17 mm center bolt for the front and rear motor mounts..
Tighten up the center bolts.. then tighten up the cross member.. put the wheel on.. and boom 15 mins .. it was over..
i am still in awe at how simple it was ...
Clutch Chatter: gone
Wheel Hop: gone
Installation:
First we started by putting the car on Jack Stands.. and then using the Jack to support the base of the tranny.
then we removed the front center 17mm motor mount bolt and nut...
next we took off the driver's side front wheel to get access to the rear center 17 mm motor mount bolt.. once the wheel was off.. we removed the rear 17 mm bolt..
then we used 10 mm socket to remove the platic tabs below and then proceeded to remove the cross member..
using the 17 mm socket again.. we removed the 2 front cross member bolts.. and then both the rear 17 mm cross member bolts..
then the cross member dropped nice and easily..
with the cross member dropped.. we used the 17 mm socket to remove the front and rear motor mounts.. and then bolted up the new motor mounts..
then once the new ones were bolted up.. we took the cross member back to the car..
its important to line up the rear cross member and mount first.. once lined up.. we screwed the rear cross member bolts in half way..
then we caught the front cross member bolts half way also..
once the cross member was partially bolted up and lose.. then we played with the jack up and down with it as support for the engine and then caught the 17 mm center bolt for the front and rear motor mounts..
Tighten up the center bolts.. then tighten up the cross member.. put the wheel on.. and boom 15 mins .. it was over..
i am still in awe at how simple it was ...
#3
Re: Re: EricD Mounts made by sx7r Installed!!! :15 minutes
Originally posted by Aaron95SE
Send me some beot**
Glad ya like em.......they are one of the things on a very long list.
Send me some beot**
Glad ya like em.......they are one of the things on a very long list.
oh did i mention i get NONE.. absoltely no idling issue like the PR Motor Mounts..
#4
Re: Re: Re: EricD Mounts made by sx7r Installed!!! :15 minutes
Originally posted by SprintMax
i got them from sx7r aka thomas.. i won't disclose how much i paid for them.. but contact him.. see if he will do them for you..
oh did i mention i get NONE.. absoltely no idling issue like the PR Motor Mounts..
i got them from sx7r aka thomas.. i won't disclose how much i paid for them.. but contact him.. see if he will do them for you..
oh did i mention i get NONE.. absoltely no idling issue like the PR Motor Mounts..
Either way....if they dont have the issues the PR ones have and you get no chatter or wheel hop...... = good investment.
#5
Re: Re: Re: Re: EricD Mounts made by sx7r Installed!!! :15 minutes
Originally posted by Birdman
When I did my place racing mounts I didn't support the engine. Took me 20mins though and no problems lining up. I guess it is safe to support it. Does anyone gut and fill OEM mounts?
When I did my place racing mounts I didn't support the engine. Took me 20mins though and no problems lining up. I guess it is safe to support it. Does anyone gut and fill OEM mounts?
Originally posted by Aaron95SE
Yup....I thought I read a post about these. $200 or so?
Either way....if they dont have the issues the PR ones have and you get no chatter or wheel hop...... = good investment.
Yup....I thought I read a post about these. $200 or so?
Either way....if they dont have the issues the PR ones have and you get no chatter or wheel hop...... = good investment.
#7
Originally posted by gtr_rider
does he sells these privately or is it a mass produced thing?
If so, I need some more info so I can put on vqpower
does he sells these privately or is it a mass produced thing?
If so, I need some more info so I can put on vqpower
#9
Damn you guys are lucky! When I did my motor mounts things became completly un-alighned.. It litterly took over a hour just trying to get the mounts to line back up. But like you said Daren, PU mounts are awesome, I think there growsly underrated. Seriusly, it's probably the best mod I've done to my max(other then Y-pipe and Springs )
#10
Originally posted by SprintMax
he did them for his own car.. and was explaining to me how to do them.. then i told him to do two sets.. 1 for me and 1 for my cousin..
he did them for his own car.. and was explaining to me how to do them.. then i told him to do two sets.. 1 for me and 1 for my cousin..
I just got through installing the set I bought from you. It took me 30 minutes because I tried getting at the rear without taking the driver's side wheel off. After I realized my mistake, it was so easy.
Like you said, no chatter from the new ACT clutch, and no wheel hop.
These mounts are definitely recommended if you're going to install an ACT clutch.
#11
ok, a friend of mine (BsmithT-errr something like that ) bought the PR mounts and he still has his old ones. since i have VERY little money to spend right now do you think it'd be ok to gut them and fill them the way that sx7r did? i dont see what the difference would be from doing that to a new set and a old set.
Trevor
Trevor
#12
Re: EricD Mounts made by sx7r Installed!!! :15 minutes
Originally posted by SprintMax
I had no idea this would be so easy
Clutch Chatter: gone
Wheel Hop: gone
Installation:
First we started by putting the car on Jack Stands.. and then using the Jack to support the base of the tranny.
then we removed the front center 17mm motor mount bolt and nut...
next we took off the driver's side front wheel to get access to the rear center 17 mm motor mount bolt.. once the wheel was off.. we removed the rear 17 mm bolt..
then we used 10 mm socket to remove the platic tabs below and then proceeded to remove the cross member..
using the 17 mm socket again.. we removed the 2 front cross member bolts.. and then both the rear 17 mm cross member bolts..
then the cross member dropped nice and easily..
with the cross member dropped.. we used the 17 mm socket to remove the front and rear motor mounts.. and then bolted up the new motor mounts..
then once the new ones were bolted up.. we took the cross member back to the car..
its important to line up the rear cross member and mount first.. once lined up.. we screwed the rear cross member bolts in half way..
then we caught the front cross member bolts half way also..
once the cross member was partially bolted up and lose.. then we played with the jack up and down with it as support for the engine and then caught the 17 mm center bolt for the front and rear motor mounts..
Tighten up the center bolts.. then tighten up the cross member.. put the wheel on.. and boom 15 mins .. it was over..
i am still in awe at how simple it was ...
I had no idea this would be so easy
Clutch Chatter: gone
Wheel Hop: gone
Installation:
First we started by putting the car on Jack Stands.. and then using the Jack to support the base of the tranny.
then we removed the front center 17mm motor mount bolt and nut...
next we took off the driver's side front wheel to get access to the rear center 17 mm motor mount bolt.. once the wheel was off.. we removed the rear 17 mm bolt..
then we used 10 mm socket to remove the platic tabs below and then proceeded to remove the cross member..
using the 17 mm socket again.. we removed the 2 front cross member bolts.. and then both the rear 17 mm cross member bolts..
then the cross member dropped nice and easily..
with the cross member dropped.. we used the 17 mm socket to remove the front and rear motor mounts.. and then bolted up the new motor mounts..
then once the new ones were bolted up.. we took the cross member back to the car..
its important to line up the rear cross member and mount first.. once lined up.. we screwed the rear cross member bolts in half way..
then we caught the front cross member bolts half way also..
once the cross member was partially bolted up and lose.. then we played with the jack up and down with it as support for the engine and then caught the 17 mm center bolt for the front and rear motor mounts..
Tighten up the center bolts.. then tighten up the cross member.. put the wheel on.. and boom 15 mins .. it was over..
i am still in awe at how simple it was ...
#13
Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
ok, a friend of mine (BsmithT-errr something like that ) bought the PR mounts and he still has his old ones. since i have VERY little money to spend right now do you think it'd be ok to gut them and fill them the way that sx7r did? i dont see what the difference would be from doing that to a new set and a old set.
Trevor
ok, a friend of mine (BsmithT-errr something like that ) bought the PR mounts and he still has his old ones. since i have VERY little money to spend right now do you think it'd be ok to gut them and fill them the way that sx7r did? i dont see what the difference would be from doing that to a new set and a old set.
Trevor
#14
Originally posted by Stephen Max
Howdy, cousin.
I just got through installing the set I bought from you. It took me 30 minutes because I tried getting at the rear without taking the driver's side wheel off. After I realized my mistake, it was so easy.
Like you said, no chatter from the new ACT clutch, and no wheel hop.
These mounts are definitely recommended if you're going to install an ACT clutch.
Howdy, cousin.
I just got through installing the set I bought from you. It took me 30 minutes because I tried getting at the rear without taking the driver's side wheel off. After I realized my mistake, it was so easy.
Like you said, no chatter from the new ACT clutch, and no wheel hop.
These mounts are definitely recommended if you're going to install an ACT clutch.
damn you are quick i didn't even know you got them already.. nice to see you got them in..
#19
Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
ok, a friend of mine (BsmithT-errr something like that ) bought the PR mounts and he still has his old ones. since i have VERY little money to spend right now do you think it'd be ok to gut them and fill them the way that sx7r did? i dont see what the difference would be from doing that to a new set and a old set.
Trevor
ok, a friend of mine (BsmithT-errr something like that ) bought the PR mounts and he still has his old ones. since i have VERY little money to spend right now do you think it'd be ok to gut them and fill them the way that sx7r did? i dont see what the difference would be from doing that to a new set and a old set.
Trevor
#23
A little hint please
So, what's the trick to the rear-mount bolt? That thing is a beyatch
to reach. Do you just use a big @$$ extender or am I missing some
way of getting at it more directly? Any other tips for one person
going at it?
Thanks,
JK
to reach. Do you just use a big @$$ extender or am I missing some
way of getting at it more directly? Any other tips for one person
going at it?
Thanks,
JK
#24
Re: A little hint please
Originally posted by joaquink
So, what's the trick to the rear-mount bolt? That thing is a beyatch
to reach. Do you just use a big @$$ extender or am I missing some
way of getting at it more directly? Any other tips for one person
going at it?
Thanks,
JK
So, what's the trick to the rear-mount bolt? That thing is a beyatch
to reach. Do you just use a big @$$ extender or am I missing some
way of getting at it more directly? Any other tips for one person
going at it?
Thanks,
JK
#25
Re: A little hint please
Originally posted by joaquink
So, what's the trick to the rear-mount bolt? That thing is a beyatch
to reach. Do you just use a big @$$ extender or am I missing some
way of getting at it more directly? Any other tips for one person
going at it?
Thanks,
JK
So, what's the trick to the rear-mount bolt? That thing is a beyatch
to reach. Do you just use a big @$$ extender or am I missing some
way of getting at it more directly? Any other tips for one person
going at it?
Thanks,
JK
#26
Re: Re: A little hint please
Originally posted by ericdwong
I stuck together all my extensions and came up with a 3 foot extension. Stick it in and then make some kind of pivot point. I used a hand truck. Then use leverage and it will bust loose.
I stuck together all my extensions and came up with a 3 foot extension. Stick it in and then make some kind of pivot point. I used a hand truck. Then use leverage and it will bust loose.
#28
Re: Re: Re: A little hint please
Originally posted by SprintMax
oh the beauty of air tools
oh the beauty of air tools
to figure out a way to get a wrench on the nut for the rear bolt only
to later discover that it's welded in place in anyway!
Anyhow, FSM lists the torque specs at 56-72 ft./lbs. This goes for
the bolts to the cross member as well as the bolts through the mounts
themselves. (help me out here, I'm trying to make up for being a
on that rear center bolt.)
#29
Re: Re: Re: Re: A little hint please
Originally posted by joaquink
Anyhow, FSM lists the torque specs at 56-72 ft./lbs. This goes for
the bolts to the cross member as well as the bolts through the mounts
themselves. (help me out here, I'm trying to make up for being a
on that rear center bolt.)
Anyhow, FSM lists the torque specs at 56-72 ft./lbs. This goes for
the bolts to the cross member as well as the bolts through the mounts
themselves. (help me out here, I'm trying to make up for being a
on that rear center bolt.)
By the way - maybe it's my imagination, but it seems my transmission shifts easier now after replacing the mounts. Or at least shifting seems to have a more positive feel. Maybe due to less relative motion between transmission and body when I let off the gas to shift?
#30
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: A little hint please
Originally posted by Stephen Max
Is this a question? If so, yes, the torque specs for all the crossmember and mount bolts are listed as 56-72 ft-lbs.
By the way - maybe it's my imagination, but it seems my transmission shifts easier now after replacing the mounts. Or at least shifting seems to have a more positive feel. Maybe due to less relative motion between transmission and body when I let off the gas to shift?
Is this a question? If so, yes, the torque specs for all the crossmember and mount bolts are listed as 56-72 ft-lbs.
By the way - maybe it's my imagination, but it seems my transmission shifts easier now after replacing the mounts. Or at least shifting seems to have a more positive feel. Maybe due to less relative motion between transmission and body when I let off the gas to shift?
tidbit of useful information.
Amen to the better shifting. You've taken the play out of the system
and therefor get firmer shifts. I love the feel of the car with these
installed.
Unfortunately for me, my funky engine/tranny-noise problem still
exists after going back to the stock front/rear mounts. It's a bit
less pronounced now but definitely still there.
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