Alignment pros advice needed
12-03-2002, 10:40 AM
#1
Alignment pros advice needed
This subject was discussed a little a while ago, but no real conclusions were reached.
Lowered Maximas tend to follow the road crown more aggressively than stock. This occurs even when the front alignment is set within factory specs.
My main question is this:
Since factory toe setting are not adequate on lowered cars, what changes are needed? More toe-in, or less?
Lowered Maximas tend to follow the road crown more aggressively than stock. This occurs even when the front alignment is set within factory specs.
My main question is this:
Since factory toe setting are not adequate on lowered cars, what changes are needed? More toe-in, or less?
12-03-2002, 09:23 PM
#3
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 268
Well first improper toe can wear a tire FAST so my recommendation is not to play with it, for every 1/8 inch of toe in error its equivalent to dragging your tire crosswise 11ft out of every mile.
Secondly, toe is not very much of a directional stability angle, I know it's the only alignment angle we can play with but it may be caster that could be our problem. The left front wheel's Caster may be adjusted with less positive Caster than the right front wheel to compensate for road crown. Since we only can adjust toe it seems we may have no choice in fixing the pulling
Secondly, toe is not very much of a directional stability angle, I know it's the only alignment angle we can play with but it may be caster that could be our problem. The left front wheel's Caster may be adjusted with less positive Caster than the right front wheel to compensate for road crown. Since we only can adjust toe it seems we may have no choice in fixing the pulling
12-03-2002, 09:49 PM
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,909
If there is a problem with following the road, I feel it is the tires not the alignment spec if stock specs are used. Performance tires love to follow lines or irregularities in the road. I align to specs and have no unusual probs.
12-04-2002, 05:48 AM
#5
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Originally posted by Maximam
Performance tires love to follow lines or irregularities in the road. I align to specs and have no unusual probs.
Performance tires love to follow lines or irregularities in the road. I align to specs and have no unusual probs.
When I go from Dunlop SP8000 in 235/45/17 back to stock size 16" sport A2's the car rides and tracks like a completely different vehicle. All that feedback from road crowns is completely gone.
12-04-2002, 05:58 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 888
Toe out better for curves, but car will feel squirrely on center. Toe in better on center but not as good on curves.
My car would follow every crown/groove on the road when I first put in my ST springs. The toe in was at less then 1mm. Now in spec much better.
My car would follow every crown/groove on the road when I first put in my ST springs. The toe in was at less then 1mm. Now in spec much better.
12-04-2002, 06:04 AM
#7
I have 215/60-15 tires on stock rims. They are not not high perfomance tires. I am running stock pressure now, 29psi all around.
Caster should not have changed with the lowering. Like I said, this was not a problem at stock ride height.
Caster should not have changed with the lowering. Like I said, this was not a problem at stock ride height.
12-04-2002, 06:07 AM
#8
Re: Alignment pros advice needed
Originally posted by mzmtg
This subject was discussed a little a while ago, but no real conclusions were reached.
Lowered Maximas tend to follow the road crown more aggressively than stock. This occurs even when the front alignment is set within factory specs.
My main question is this:
Since factory toe setting are not adequate on lowered cars, what changes are needed? More toe-in, or less?
This subject was discussed a little a while ago, but no real conclusions were reached.
Lowered Maximas tend to follow the road crown more aggressively than stock. This occurs even when the front alignment is set within factory specs.
My main question is this:
Since factory toe setting are not adequate on lowered cars, what changes are needed? More toe-in, or less?
12-04-2002, 06:20 AM
#9
Re: Re: Alignment pros advice needed
Originally posted by deezo
When the front suspension "squats", you will get toe-out. So for the drop you will need more toe-in.
When the front suspension "squats", you will get toe-out. So for the drop you will need more toe-in.
12-04-2002, 06:24 AM
#10
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Posts: 16,033
Originally posted by mzmtg
I have 215/60-15 tires on stock rims. They are not not high perfomance tires.
Like I said, this was not a problem at stock ride height.
I have 215/60-15 tires on stock rims. They are not not high perfomance tires.
Like I said, this was not a problem at stock ride height.
The OEM Good Year Eagle RS-A tires that came on my SE were absolutely horrable from the start in that area. With only 30K (about 50% tread life) on them they were all over the road. When I upgraded to 17" SP8000, at first they were excellent. (much better then the RS-A) Not to much crown following going on. 20K miles later they act the same if not worse then the RS-A's.
It's your tires that cause it, not the ride height.
Your alignment, no matter what ride height should be set to factory specs.
(unless you want to tweak it for performance ie. heavy neg. camber and tow out - but this will result in more road wonder and excissive tire ware)
12-04-2002, 06:42 AM
#11
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
It's got nothing to do with ride height. If your alignment is set to spec and your getting a lot of crown following, it's your tires.
The OEM Good Year Eagle RS-A tires that came on my SE were absolutely horrable from the start in that area. With only 30K (about 50% tread life) on them they were all over the road. When I upgraded to 17" SP8000, at first they were excellent. (much better then the RS-A) Not to much crown following going on. 20K miles later they act the same if not worse then the RS-A's.
It's your tires that cause it, not the ride height.
Your alignment, no matter what ride height should be set to factory specs.
(unless you want to tweak it for performance ie. heavy neg. camber and tow out - but this will result in more road wonder and excissive tire ware)
It's got nothing to do with ride height. If your alignment is set to spec and your getting a lot of crown following, it's your tires.
The OEM Good Year Eagle RS-A tires that came on my SE were absolutely horrable from the start in that area. With only 30K (about 50% tread life) on them they were all over the road. When I upgraded to 17" SP8000, at first they were excellent. (much better then the RS-A) Not to much crown following going on. 20K miles later they act the same if not worse then the RS-A's.
It's your tires that cause it, not the ride height.
Your alignment, no matter what ride height should be set to factory specs.
(unless you want to tweak it for performance ie. heavy neg. camber and tow out - but this will result in more road wonder and excissive tire ware)
12-04-2002, 06:48 AM
#13
Originally posted by deezo
Negative caster would make it less sensitive.
Negative caster would make it less sensitive.
I was worried w/the sprints. I have no abnormal tire wear.......other than a heavy foot.
12-04-2002, 07:10 AM
#14
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Originally posted by deezo
Negative caster would make it less sensitive.
Negative caster would make it less sensitive.
Caster is what helps your car pull straight. I'm not sure if it's negative or positive. I think you may be correct in saying that heavier caster might make it less sensitive to that.
When I change the fork position on my motorcycle which in turn changes my front wheel caster the difference in tracking is night and day. To much caster and I can't take the twisties cause the bike pulls to hard straight. To little caster and I'm darting all over the road with the thing. So this makes sense. To bad caster isn't adjustable on our cars.
12-04-2002, 07:26 AM
#15
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Deezo, there are no adjustments for caster on our cars. If your caster is off, your lower control arm or frame is bent.
Caster is what helps your car pull straight. I'm not sure if it's negative or positive. I think you may be correct in saying that heavier caster might make it less sensitive to that.
When I change the fork position on my motorcycle which in turn changes my front wheel caster the difference in tracking is night and day. To much caster and I can't take the twisties cause the bike pulls to hard straight. To little caster and I'm darting all over the road with the thing. So this makes sense. To bad caster isn't adjustable on our cars.
Deezo, there are no adjustments for caster on our cars. If your caster is off, your lower control arm or frame is bent.
Caster is what helps your car pull straight. I'm not sure if it's negative or positive. I think you may be correct in saying that heavier caster might make it less sensitive to that.
When I change the fork position on my motorcycle which in turn changes my front wheel caster the difference in tracking is night and day. To much caster and I can't take the twisties cause the bike pulls to hard straight. To little caster and I'm darting all over the road with the thing. So this makes sense. To bad caster isn't adjustable on our cars.
12-04-2002, 07:54 AM
#16
Since factory toe setting are not adequate on lowered cars, what changes are needed?
I have been through many a alignments since I lowered this summer, and everyone who has had a lowered vehicle, or shops that have had them tell me that you should keep the stock settings.
NJMAXSELTD knows what he's talkin about!
NJMAXSELTD knows what he's talkin about!
12-04-2002, 08:22 AM
#17
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 268
Originally posted by mzmtg
Caster should not have changed with the lowering. Like I said, this was not a problem at stock ride height.
Caster should not have changed with the lowering. Like I said, this was not a problem at stock ride height.
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