I am about to begin my UDP installation and from what I have read the easiest way to losen the nut is to put a socket with a breaker bar on it, wedge it against something solid and crank the starter for a second. Of course if the car actually started it could be a major problem . Will pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and running it dry be enough or is there another safer way? Has anyone had a problem using this method to loosen the crankshft bolt?

 

I installed the UDP on my 96 SE and I tried the crank over method and it did not work. I had my breaker bar wedged to the concrete floor. When I tried to turn the car over, my starter let out a shreeeeeek!!!!! I only tried to turn it over once for 1 second, but when I heard the sound, I decided it WAS NOT WORTH possibly breaking off teeth on my flywheel/starter and or burning up my starter. So what did I do? With the car secure on two jackstands PLUS a 2-ton jack and the car in 5th gear and the brakes on (wedged a bar between the seat and brake pedal, I braced myself underneath the car and tugged away with my 18" breaker bar. With some penetrating oil and in two minutes, I had busted the bolt loose that had never been removed in 6 years.

I suggest either getting a breaker bar and jackstands and trying to break the bolt loose with human strength or using an impact wrench. The crank method is too dangerous if you ask me.

BTW, my starter never gave me any problems after making the nasty sound. It's the OEM unit with 93K miles.


Dave

 

Thanks Dave, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and tried the crank the starter method. I ended up breaking my breaker bar, luckily it's a craftsman :P. I also broke my 3/8 drive socket wrench, I think I will take them back to sears on different days. The only 19mm socket I have is 3/8 drive. My tire changing cross fits the bolt very snugly, but it does not leave a lot of room for getting into position. I used some wood blocks and a jack to lock the brakes. I think I will get a 1/2" drive 19mm socket and breaker bar and tackle this again another day. I also have to get some real penetrating oil, all I have is WD40 and I don't think it is as good as a real penetrating oil.

 

A 1/2" breaker bar and socket is mandatory. And yes, WD40 won't work as good as some of the other oils. I suggest spraying the oil on the bolt and then lightly tapping the bolt with a rubber mallet for about 1 minute to work the oil in (the vibration will work the oil is). I would do this every 15 minutes for an hour and then try to break the bolt loose with the breaker bar. I believe the bolt is on at 140 ft/lbs or so.

Good luck with the idler pulleys on the power steering and main accessorys. That's the big pain.



Dave

 

Too bad you don't have a torch handy.

 

I don't think thats a good idea. You'll melt the seal.

Best device to use would be an impact gun. You could have a local mechanic just blast it lose real quick, then just snug it up a bit and drive it home to complete the job.

I got the main drive sproket off my bike that way, made the job a whole lot easier.

 

I agree with the air impact method. Just drive it to a friends who has an impact gun. You've gotta know someone with one...

The starter method is just asking for trouble. If you saw how small the teeth on the starter and/or flywheel and how much power gets applied to it you'd cringe too...

 

The breaker bar method is only for automatics where its fluid drive, not necessary on a 5 speed where you hook direct.

Just put it in gear and put the E-Brake on and pull like hell.

 

When Jeff over at Max Tuning did mine he had to crank the car twice to get the bolt free. After that he was done in under 30min

Ant