Well here is my dyno sheet:



First Run: 181.8 HP and 195.6 Ft/lbs of torque
Second Run: 180.8 Hp and 194.5 Ft/lbs of torque

My car currently has 46K on it and is a 2000 Manual. I have a Cattman Y-pipe and JWT intake as my only engine mods. I am very disappointed in my car right now and something is clearly wrong with it once again.

I have two ideas on what could possibly be wrong.....

A. I have one of the older Cattman Y-pipes on (purchased in August 01') which could have a broken flex section.

B. I installed 1 step colder Copper NGK plugs....Yes these are the wrong plugs, but it shouldn't make much of a difference.

 

No, the colder plugs will make a significant difference...I lost ~5fwhp and ~10fwtq with them (dyno proven). Some say they lost even more. Nevertheless, the colder plugs are definitely affecting your numbers. How much? I dunno. There's only one way to find out. =)

Oh yeah, also fix your y-pipe if it's leaking.

BTW, why are you running colder plugs? Planning to go boost or nitrous? hehe

 

you can lose up to 30 fwhp on cold plugs

 

WOW...that's quite a bit of power loss....

The reason I have these plugs in is because of a mistake. I forgot to write down the part number for the NGK plugs, so we called up Neal and he gave us the wrong number.

 

yeah Sonic dyno'd 136 fwhpish at maxus with bolt on's and a 95 GLE on colder plugs

 

I think that the plugs arent that big of a problem IMO. From the dyno, it looks very similar to BriGuyMax's dyno with a broken flex. I am going to check it out ASAP.

 

Any aftermarket wheels? If so, which ones? I saw a gain of 8 hp on my dyno changing wheels.

 

Stock 17" rims with 235/45/17 KWDS's....

 

Your post made me think of an article on the new Neon SRT-4 where it dynoed for more than Dodge reports. I can't believe a $19,000 car does 102 in the 1/4 mile. I admit it is a Neon, but wtf with those numbers! gonna get a lot of HS students toasting middle-aged men in their 2-seaters!

 

When you replaced the plugs with the clod Coppers, did you car feel faster or slower than before the work was done?

 

I agree with the Neon thing. Real responsible for Dodge to market a car capable of those numbers for the least experienced portion of the driving population (and the flaming begins!). I predict that a bunch will be sold (and with those numbers and price, rightfully so). However, they will then become a dime-a-dozen in used car lots because the younger crowd won't be able to afford the insurance (if they can even get coverage). The older crowd won't really drive a Neon because we enjoy refinement, which a Neon isn't noted for having. And so the price will drop even lower because used car lots will try to get rid of them so they don't have to pay taxes on something they can't make a profit on.... Or they will become a "rich kids" car that Mommy and Daddy carry on their insurance because the middle class HS or college student can't afford insurance (I'll call my agent today to see what a 32 year old, married, multiple vehicles, and a flawless driving record would pay on one). Or I could be totally wrong.

As for the original post, why do those numbers look that bad? Doesn't a 2000 have 222 hp stock? So you've got about an 18% parasitic loss, which may be just a tiny bit high for a manual tranny. As for your mods, I wouldn't really expect as much an improvement on a 2000 compared to a 95-99 with the same mods. Isn't the intake and the exhaust where most of the extra 32 horses 2000's have come from? I'd look at simple things such as the colder plugs, which I think are definitely worth a couple. Tire weight has a profound effect. You said you have stock 17" rims, but what is the weight of the actual rubber? If you have high performance tires, they weigh more than "standard" performance, and vary by manufacturer. Check your flex pipe for leaks, may be losing something there, but I doubt it would be noticeable. Are you getting any codes like the infamous 0304 (KS). Retarded timing would affect your numbers, and KS's are so common. I don't know where you live, but up north they use a lot of oxygenated fuel in the winter. This cuts emissions, but affects power.

With your mods on a 2000, I'd only expect a maximum of 4 hp from an intake and 8 hp from a y pipe to the wheels. That, with an 18% parasitic loss from the drivetrain, would give about 192 hp to the wheels. I really think that 4 and 8 hp for those mods is a generous guess for a 2000 with its intake and exhaust already. But I don't have a 2000, so you may want to check with others to see what you should realistically expect from them.

I really don't think anything is wrong with your car. May be some little things that affected your numbers slightly, but nothing to worry about. Personally, I'd be happy with you numbers (if they were on my '97)

Dave

 

you can get those numbers easy on a 97 .. i think thats his main concern..

4th Gen's dyno'ing 190 and more fwhp and upper 190's tq..

 

And he was running high 17's in the 1/4.

 

180 fwhp is below what a lot of stock 00-01 manuals have dynoed at, and he has I/Y mods. There is obviously something wrong with the car.


The car is making decent torque (but still maybe a little low), but the horsepower is WAY low which indicates it really falls apart more than normal at the top-end. As previously stated, plugs *CAN* make a big difference if they're one range to cold and have gone bad, and the classic y-pipe flex section failure could possibly cause it as well.

 

when a y pipe is blown.. its basically like open header.. you loose low end torque but your hp at high rpm increases drastically.. so its not a blown y pipe flex

 

But weren't some of the flex sections crimping out so that there was only a pee-hole path for exhaust through the rest of the exhaust system?

Yes, "blown" y-pipe (as in NO y-pipe) or completely blown out flex section would be the same thing as an open header, but I think you would definitely hear some changes in engine tone if that happened

 

bad knock sensor maybee?

 

I've never heard of a failing 5th gen Y-pipe flex, but the symptoms are there. The more air you flow the more it gets restricted i.e. loss in the upper RPMs.

 

I know those numbers are easy to get on a '97, because the intake and exhaust on 95-99's are more restrictive. Aren't 2000's intakes and exhausts the main reason they get 32 extra hp stock compared to a 95-99? What I was trying to say is that with the 2000's better stock intake and exhaust, an I/Y wouldn't produce as big a difference than same I/Y on a 95-99. Also, 95-99 SE's come stock with 16", his has 17's. That surely cancels out some of the 32 extra horses from crank to the ground. With his numbers, he's showing about an 18.5% loss from crank to wheels, assuming his car made 222 hp at the crank stock (remember that every car is different. Some 2000's are more powerful than others, if only by a horse or two. It's a side effect of mass production). I would think that would be a decent number for parasitic loss if he was auto, but he's not. Whatever the reason for his minimal loss, I'd guess it is something simple, such as his colder plugs, bad gas (oxygenated for cold weather emissions or water), tire weight, or even a bad KS. If his flex pipe was "crushed", meaning more restrictive, that could be it, too. But if it is just a leak, I doubt it would have too much effect.
I'd check codes just to be safe; it's free, easy, and takes minimal time. Could reveal a bad KS, which will cut power and mileage, but not give a CEL or drivability problems (I've had 2 on 2 different Maxima's). I'd also get the proper heat range copper NGK's because they are cheap enough I could justify the cost of them for troubleshooting. Depending on mileage on car, possibly injector cleaner (mine likes Lucas Fuel Treatment, but it's more of a personal preference thing). And I'd check all other maintenance items like oil, filters, PCV.

Dave

 

my car pulls harder @ higher rpms... with blown y pipes.. and i am on the 3rd one

 

not really.. the intake and exhaust are basically the same..

Intake Manifolds, the 2000 Maxima's use a Variable Intake System that opens at upper rpm's that holds the horsepower @ higher RPMS .. and gives better peak hp. We now have a VIS for the 95 - 99 so now we are able to get that power.

the confusion is Intake Manifold, not intake... the intake and exhaust are pretty much the same on those years. SO gettina Y pipe or a Cold air intake doesn't give more power for those years vs the other years.

I think he is basing his assement on what simular cars made on the same mods, and his hp numbers are low.. he should be at 190 - 195 with those numbers.. and by that dyno he is at about 20% loss.

its not a matter of more powerful, you can tell when a hp numbers is way low.. and his is way low.. Auto 4th Gen's with the same mods dyno that hp or close to it.

and he has a 2k 5spd

we already told him what the power loss was due to, but he doesn't think thats the problem. Over and Over again, dyno's have proven that colder plugs on an NA car will give less hp. Until he dyno's again with stock plugs, no other trouble shooting methods can take place.

his car is pulling all the way to redline so his VIS is working perfectly.

KS is a good idea.. but again, until he dyno's with stock heat range plugs, it makes no sense in throwing out ideas. Just shooting at fish in a barrell.


thats my idea too.. buy some new plugs and re-dyno, you should have never dyno'd an NA car on colder plugs.. even the butt dyno shows tha the colder plugs don't pull like the stock plugs

 

Pee-hole sized flex section from my car: http://boostedmaximas.com/y2kevse/im..._flex_section/

 

IT MUST BE A DRAG TO DRIVE A CAR WITH UNDER 200 WHP AND WEIGHT OVER 3000 POUNDS! SAD TRULLY SAD

 

Haven't had any trouble taking out two stock geesers in my dinky 160 whp, 3100lb Maxima. One on the highway, one away from a light.

 

No wonder you get killed by that 350z so badly on the highway. Should not be as bad as you were mentioning a while back.

Looks like plugs or the VI is not kicking in.

 

Why not just spend a few dollars on the cheapie copper plugs in the correct heat range and test again? It MIGHT take 1/2 hour.

If different range plugs DIDN'T make a difference, when why are you running them(ie.. for nitrous/boost)?

 

ha ha what a character.

 

my dad owns a maxima 2000 model 5pd and it feels like driving a tow truck haha!!ofcourse his is 100% stock its basically a family sedan

I have more fun in my integra for sure but different stroke for different folks

 

He already said why... because I gave him the wrong part number off the top of my head

It might make a difference but not much, he still would have gotten his *** handed to him just like I did. Brian dyno'd his Z yesterday with Jason and it's probably the strongest Z dyno to date... 243.9hp and 244.9tq, bone stock. The HP is about 1hp shy of the best Z dynos but the TQ is about 6-9ftlb higher than any other stock Z dyno I've seen.

My weak *** maxima only has 184whp and seems to not have much problem with the numerically more powerful honda vehicles. Odd isn't it?

 

Don't you think if we wanted an Integra, we could have bought one?

Therefore we choose a maxima because it's just as fast as your teg, has much more room and if we want rice, we cook it.

 

ironic though when my teg (gsr) was stock with basic i/h/e I would hang with a 2k maxima with ypipe mod, full 2.5 exhaust and an intake
Im not saying maximas are slow in any way.... I just don't think the 30k+ price tag is a good car to start with specially if your're a student

 

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i think we finally found Jane's Victim

 

"hang"? whatever.

You are a student? Not an English student. WTF does being a student have to do with having a maxima or whatever car? So now maxima.org is full of student?

 

 

Alot can happen with an incompetent driver behind the wheel... of ANY car.

I paid 9K for my max.

 

what is stock with basic i/h/e

 

i/h/e on a honda maybe adds 15hp the most
I would think on a maxima having more displacemnt a ypipe, exhaust/intake would net him more power I guess not??

 

I ran 14.46 @ 96.5 with just Y pipe, that's something an I/H/E GSR is not going to touch. All drivers are not created equal, you found one of the not-so-good ones.

 

hey Phat Guy... i didn't know you sold your 2001 5spd Maxima for an integra or is that your son posting?