amixam69

so what should I do? my bumpers are faded from the sun. my hood is chipped from stones....

today a cement truck hit a rock that put a spiderweb like crack on my windshield. will it ever end!!

i stay back all i can....

but there just is no way to avoide the little rocks...

are there products i can use to "rub out" chips ? surface scratches ?

dealer does not want to paint my car ( or rather he suggests that i don't ) and i don't think anyone does nissan colors do they ?! is there a place to buy nissan color paint ?

and glass is glass right ? there is no need for nissan factory glass when I can just get aftermarket for half the value.. i mean it has to pass inspection of some sort before they can retail it right ?

OH WHOA! hear me whine guys.... sorry to vent.. i am mainly looking for advice on the paint issue

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

any remotely decent paint/body shop should be able to do factory color. its basically just an issue of getting the right mixture. you could probably even just go to a color supply shop, get them to mix the factory color and then have a body shop spray it. but all body shops should be able to do factory color. i wouldnt trust the dealer to paint it even if they said they would. and some aftermarket glass is really cheap. my friend busted my back window, and we got aftermarket glass on it. it had all these terrible looking blue and yellow streaks in it. we told the installers that we didnt want it. they kept giving us new ones but all of them still had it. they said that we wouldnt be able to get any that didnt have streaks. but after tint it was fine. dont know if this was just a fluke or what though.

brandonj

iTrader: (1)

I used to work on the business end of a glass shop, and can tell you that not all glass is created equal. You don't have to buy your windshield from the dealer though, just find a shop that will use OEM glass. You'll get the same brand (I think it is AP Tech on the Maxima) without the Nissan stamp on it, and it costs a lot less.

amixam69

by wuality do you mean "looks" or "function"

I am assuming all glass has to perform up to a certain spec.

and as for the install it depends on the people that do it

as for the "quality" of the glass i am unsure how to go about this...

these guys are gonna do it tomorrow in the parking lot at work. do these type of installs usually bring along different glass to chose from... it's the only way my insurance will cover it.

brandonj

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about where you live, but in the state of Washington you have the legal right to have whoever you want do the work for you. Just ask them if they use OEM glass, and if they don't, cancel and find someone who does. There can be a lot of variance in quality, especially as far as distortion where the glass bends. Cheap glass will also get pitted easier. The other thing is, that a shop that always uses OEM glass is more likely to do the job right the 1st time, i.e. no leaks and no damage to your car. There are a lot of shady glass businesses out there. You pay for insurance-insist that they make your car as good as it was before it got cracked.
P.S. If you happen to be in the Seattle area I can give you the name of the most quality-oriented installer around.

Just curious, who is your insurance company? I worked in billing, so I am pretty familiar with their procedures.

[Edited by brandonj on 09-14-2000 at 12:56 AM]

amixam69

well, the guy called this morning, I asked him all the questions.. OEM ? Warranty ?
yes to both

I use Met Life auto insurance.

1:30 - 5 pm is when they do it.. i leave my car unlocked and they will take care of it... hope they don't **ck it up

justinmc

iTrader: (8)

provided you don't own a mystic colored 96 cobra .. other than that most factory paint is pretty simple as long as your going for a total respray and not just a repaint of faded/chipped/damaged areas... in that case..
1) Matching the paint is still not that hard.. just remove something thats painted.. such as the gas filler door and take it to a paint shop that can do a chromavision (I think thats a dupont copywrited term.. but others should offer it as well) they scan it and the computer tells them how to mix to adjust for age/fading of the paint (all paint fades over time)..
2) Blending is a different story.. not so bad on solid colors (unless the paint was mixed wrong) but metallics can be a total PITA.. they often end up spraying much of the surrounding area.. (ex. doing a car with a dented rear 1/4 just a smallish dent.. pulled and hit with a skim coat of filler.. had to spray the 1/4, up into the rear hatch area coming into the roofline, fade it into the passenger door and back across the rear bumper.. the spot that needed to be painted was only 2sqft or less.. probably sprayed 10sqft.. ) its hard to make it blend well.. and often its just as easy/cheap to respray the whole car.. at least for me .. hehe.. good luck dude.. if your in the KC area I know a paint guy..

Guest

hey how much to paint a whole mr2? factory original metallic paint preferred...

i'm thinking about buying one w/ a ****ty paint job but the rest is nice...might as well change colors at the same time.

how much should that run me for a good job (not excellent but not maaco either!)

thx

Robert

justinmc

iTrader: (8)

I mean.. a cheap but good paint job?? does it exist .. yes it does.. to be honest.. most macco's don't do a bad job.. the bad part of their job is their prep work.. they don't usually hand sand (except on dent fixes) before shooting paint.. they just spray a paint softener on their to allow the new paint something to adhere too.. and hence a year later (or less) your paint is peeling off .. They also use cheaper paint.. which makes a difference.. but for a quick and dirty paint job.. if you do the prep work.. they can do a decent paint job.
Well figure that most paint shops are going to charge you some serious cash.. at least $1500 for a total respray.. if you want to do a total color change (meaing door jambs, trunk/hood inside, engine bay..) the price goes up up up.. unless you do alot of the work.. now if your not too worried about the jambs and engine bay matching (which knowing you and what your going to use it for your not.. auto-x right?).. hmm if you don't mind learning to do prep work.. you could save yourself alot of $$.. I would say that if you do the prep work.. most shops would charge like $500-800 just to spray it. (paint and clear aint' cheap.. and they still have to buff the clear out).. Its really hard to guestimate what a shop would charge for a hypothetical car that doesn't exist.. you know? Seriously though.. I could talk to my uncles and family and see who they know down around h-town that might cut you a good deal..
Main thing is prep work.. its time consuming and the MOST IMPORTANT part of the paint job.. seriously.. If you can find one with a straight body (so you don't have any dents to fill or fenders to replace or rust) so that all you have to do is scuff it and shoot it.. then it won't be that hard.. you get into filling minor dings/dents (rocks on the hood, 1/4 panels) it gets a little harder.. its a learned skill.. see if you can "buddy up" with some of your scca folks who do thier own paint/body.. just tell them your interested in learning.. then offer free labor to help learn.. thats how I did it.. my first prep/paint job was a 3000gt painted a deep metallic red with a dent in the door.. came out beautiful .. then about a month later someone t-boned the kid in the door.. se' la vi.. (I know I spelled that wrong.. hehe).. that answer your questions??
prep/paint.. $1500-$$$$
paint.. $500-$$$$ (depending on paint colors/costs.. dupont chromalusion paint is like $1500 a quart.. figure 2 quarts to do a mr-2).. hehe

Guest

2 dents and one scratch that i can buff out and pop out.

prep work (if mainly you mean sanding, taping off, etc) i can do.

i don't want to spend more than 2000 including a good quality paint/clear coat.

but now that you mention the door jams etc...i think switching from red (now) to a green would be tough if i wanted to cover all of that up too....

guess i need to think things over, maybe just respray w/ a new red and clear.

Robert

justinmc

iTrader: (8)

"prep work (if mainly you mean sanding, taping off, etc) i can do. "

man.. have you ever done prep work?? its seriously a LEARNED skill.. you have to learn to watch and make sure you aren't creating dips/raises/low/high spots in the surface, and that are you aren't leaving finger gouges from holding the sandpaper wrong.. also I suggest wet sanding because it keeps the dust down which is helpful for later when you get ready to paint. I WOULD NOT suggest going at it blind.. at least get a book from the library or barnes and noble. I can suggest a decent one if you want. Don't fool yourself into thinking its too easy!.. yeah red door jambs on a green car might look a little "christmasy?" lol.. I would think you could probably do a total color change (jambs and all.. won't be perfect though) for $2K and you not have to do any prep work.. but I could be wrong.. hell drive the car to KC and I'll do it for $1500

humaras

JustinMC,

if you don't mind me butting in, I found your piece on the paint quite informative about sanding, buffing etc. I was wondering if this is true, because the rear of my Maxima was scratched and the paint is fast chipping off. I was wondering if there is any difference between the paint in the bumpers from the factory versus a respray. Is it true that the paint from the factory is "baked" on and is adhered to the plastic/ metal better?
I was wondering because I am thinking of having the back and side (got hit by a supermarket cart) repainted...and the last thing I want is to have those annoying little bubbles in the paint. I'd appreciate your advice.

thank you =)

justinmc

iTrader: (8)

many parts of the auto most people don't truely understand.. its alot more complicated than painting your house or such.. but alot of the principals are the same..
If the paint is chipping off then yes its time for a little respray.. when it starts to flake/chip off you pretty much have to paint it.. little scratches can often be buffed/touched up.. sounds like you need a little more.
The paint from the factory isn't so much "baked on".. as it is heat cured.. think about baking a big piece of plastic.. not smart eh?? its simply heat cured and thats more to expedite the drying/curing process. If your worried about an aftermarket paint job holding up... try going to a "good" shop.. now how to find a "good" shop... the highest prices don't always mean the best.. but of course neither do the lowest.. first think.. now who demands the BEST paint jobs on their cars?? well people who dump tons of money on their cars of course! while you can find places that do exotics/luxury cars.. thats not always a guarantee.. unless its like a place that specializes in ferraris, lambo's, porsches (aka the 80K up crowd).. your BEST bet at finding a REAL shop.. hang out with the hot roddres.. look and see where the old grey hairs who dump 50K++++ into these old 32' ford 3 windows, 50 mercs' and such go.. these guys often spend 3-5yrs+ restoring/building a car they aren't gonna screw around on what makes the car really look good .. keep in mind these guys also spend $$$ on paint jobs.. but I guarantee they will do a top notch job.... bubbles in the paint are from improperly prepped cars.. the paint doesn't adhere then it starts to let go.. just a little section.. then bigger.. then it starts to flake and peel. there you go.. a bit more on paint.. hehe got any more questions?? did that help?

if you don't mind me butting in, I found your piece on the paint quite informative about sanding, buffing etc. I was wondering if this is true, because the rear of my Maxima was scratched and the paint is fast chipping off. I was wondering if there is any difference between the paint in the bumpers from the factory versus a respray. Is it true that the paint from the factory is "baked" on and is adhered to the plastic/ metal better?
I was wondering because I am thinking of having the back and side (got hit by a supermarket cart) repainted...and the last thing I want is to have those annoying little bubbles in the paint. I'd appreciate your advice.