is my rotor warped ?
09-16-2000, 02:10 PM
#1
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is my rotor warped ?
I am getting a slight "pulse" like braking feel in my rear right i think.... I hit a curb having to replace the tire in that wheel, thought it was allignment, but the rotor is inline with te wheels so should not have been it right ?
anyway..
I brake and the car feels like I am pumping the brake ever so slightly... no squeaking though...
you think i got a warped rotor? and if so, how do i find the culprit ?.. is there a way / need to fix this .. i really think it's just the rear right one.... no others
I am getting a slight "pulse" like braking feel in my rear right i think.... I hit a curb having to replace the tire in that wheel, thought it was allignment, but the rotor is inline with te wheels so should not have been it right ?
anyway..
I brake and the car feels like I am pumping the brake ever so slightly... no squeaking though...
you think i got a warped rotor? and if so, how do i find the culprit ?.. is there a way / need to fix this .. i really think it's just the rear right one.... no others
09-16-2000, 02:47 PM
#2
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hmmmmm lets see ->
If you hit a curb you must have damaged your rear rim. It is possible that you bent one of the rims in the process. I can tell you from my experience, is that i had warped rotors from the factory damn nissan. When you would hit the brake the whole car would shimmy. I really doubt its your rotors have someone check the wheel in the rear.
09-16-2000, 02:56 PM
#3
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but...
i had this problem even after i got my borbet rims on...
and.. this could be in my head.. but i swear the problem did lessen after an allignment, which is what is confusing me....
there is no uneven wear on my tires
? ? ? :? stummped
and.. this could be in my head.. but i swear the problem did lessen after an allignment, which is what is confusing me....
there is no uneven wear on my tires
? ? ? :? stummped
09-16-2000, 03:36 PM
#4
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well here's an easy way to tell if the rotor is warped...
Make sure you know how to take a brake apart, if not find someone who knows how to do this to do it for you. But take the rotor off the car and stick it on a metal pole, secure it on the side with metal plates or something and then spint he rotor. If you see any movement on the sides of the rotors while spinning them, they are warped and should be resurfaced or maybe replaced. If no movement then something else is the culprit. By the way, a warped rotor would cause that slight pulsating feeling in the brake pedal that you describe.
09-16-2000, 04:30 PM
#6
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hmmm should i replace
it really is noticable.. but it is not major...
what is the price range for repair.. replacement ?
assuming i would only have to do this to ONE rotor
should i bother if it does not bother me that much ?
i wouldn't think it's damaging to the brake but rather just impairs performance right ?
should i wait a while untill i really need to replace all rotors ?
i am unsure as to the severity of this problem if any, or at least how urgent the issue is.
what is the price range for repair.. replacement ?
assuming i would only have to do this to ONE rotor
should i bother if it does not bother me that much ?
i wouldn't think it's damaging to the brake but rather just impairs performance right ?
should i wait a while untill i really need to replace all rotors ?
i am unsure as to the severity of this problem if any, or at least how urgent the issue is.
09-16-2000, 04:32 PM
#7
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well check if it is warped, if it is and you only need to replace one rotor, it is not much money. For a normal rotor, you can usually get them for abot 10-30 dollars on most cars, some as low as 5, i dont see why the maxima would cost much more. If you do the labor yourself, this is not an expensive fix.
09-16-2000, 04:36 PM
#8
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would i need to worry about allignment?
replacing a rotor should not affect allignment right ?
hm...
is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
should i change both rear ?
i mean also with winter coming up ... ?
sorry... loaded with questions
hm...
is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
should i change both rear ?
i mean also with winter coming up ... ?
sorry... loaded with questions
09-16-2000, 04:53 PM
#10
Re: Yes, this just happend to me.
Originally posted by JJW95SC
Warped rotors cause that 'pulsing' braking that you describe. I found it most obvious when slowing to a stop at a light or stop sign.
Jim
Warped rotors cause that 'pulsing' braking that you describe. I found it most obvious when slowing to a stop at a light or stop sign.
Jim
09-16-2000, 07:18 PM
#11
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Re: Re: Yes, this just happend to me.
whoah... that is a bit beyond me maybe ?
I have not idea what you are talking bout...
do the Maximas use a multilink front suspension setup (upper and lower control arms)? If so, check the lower control arm bushing (also called lower pillowball bushing or tension rod). [/I][/QUOTE]
I have not idea what you are talking bout...
do the Maximas use a multilink front suspension setup (upper and lower control arms)? If so, check the lower control arm bushing (also called lower pillowball bushing or tension rod). [/I][/QUOTE]
09-18-2000, 07:07 AM
#13
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could i switch left and right rotors ?
could i switch them and see if the problem feels like it is following a specific rotor ?
how about calipers ( i am assuming they cannot be switched/swapped with each other at all)
how about calipers ( i am assuming they cannot be switched/swapped with each other at all)
09-18-2000, 03:33 PM
#14
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Posts: 60
>do the Maximas use a multilink front suspension setup (upper and lower control arms)? If so, check the lower control arm bushing (also called lower pillowball bushing or tension rod).
No, the front suspension uses struts.
>well check if it is warped, if it is and you only need to replace one rotor,
Replace???? You guys must have lots of $$$$ to spend if you're gonna replace your rotors each time they warp.
Take off the rotor(s) and bring it to the local Pep Boys, Trak Auto, AutoZone, etc. And ask to have it turned. Should cost $5-10 ea. Takes 30 min.
>not much money. For a normal rotor, you can usually get them for abot 10-30 dollars on most cars, some as low as 5,
You must be joking, right?? This is a rotor for an import and that = big $$$ Expect upwards of $100 per rotor.
>replacing a rotor should not affect allignment right ?
Not unless you have absolutely NO idea about what you're doing. Unbolt the brake caliper from the hub, wire it to the spring to keep it out of the way, and pull on the rotor. That's it.
>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
No.
>how about calipers
highly doubtful.
>could i switch them and see if the problem feels like it is following a specific rotor ?
why waste your time?? if you pull them off, you might as well get them turned anyway.
Oh, and YOUR WELCOME!!
No, the front suspension uses struts.
>well check if it is warped, if it is and you only need to replace one rotor,
Replace???? You guys must have lots of $$$$ to spend if you're gonna replace your rotors each time they warp.
Take off the rotor(s) and bring it to the local Pep Boys, Trak Auto, AutoZone, etc. And ask to have it turned. Should cost $5-10 ea. Takes 30 min.
>not much money. For a normal rotor, you can usually get them for abot 10-30 dollars on most cars, some as low as 5,
You must be joking, right?? This is a rotor for an import and that = big $$$ Expect upwards of $100 per rotor.
>replacing a rotor should not affect allignment right ?
Not unless you have absolutely NO idea about what you're doing. Unbolt the brake caliper from the hub, wire it to the spring to keep it out of the way, and pull on the rotor. That's it.
>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
No.
>how about calipers
highly doubtful.
>could i switch them and see if the problem feels like it is following a specific rotor ?
why waste your time?? if you pull them off, you might as well get them turned anyway.
Oh, and YOUR WELCOME!!
09-18-2000, 06:45 PM
#15
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>>>>>Replace???? You guys must have lots of $$$$ to spend if you're gonna replace your rotors each time they warp.
>>>>>Take off the rotor(s) and bring it to the local Pep Boys, Trak Auto, AutoZone, etc. And ask to have it turned. Should cost $5-10 ea. Takes 30 min.
Well, it matters how much it is warped, quite often if you can plainly tell from pressing on the brake pedal that the rotor is warped, it is warped to the point where resurfacing will go past the legal limit on thickness for the rotor.
>>>>>You must be joking, right?? This is a rotor for an import and that = big $$$ Expect upwards of $100 per rotor.
If you order it from OEM nissan parts, you can also order it from taiwan from some manufacturer for about 30 bucks or so and have the same performance. That is what we routinely do at our automotive shop at school and we have had great results with these rotors, no complaints and great performance. I actually looked up the price on maxima rotors, turns out they are a bit more expensive, like 60 bucks but still not too bad.
>>>>>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
>>>>>No.
YES!!!!!! you should never do any work to a rotor and not do the same work on the other side. It will cause the car to pull to the side with the thicker rotors and this will cause large problems. It is a known rule that you should absolutely never do any work to a rotor on one side without doing the same work on the other side.
>>>>>how about calipers
>>>>>highly doubtful.
You should not replace pads only on one side either, you always need to make sure both sides of the car break the same, or as close as possible.
>>>>>Take off the rotor(s) and bring it to the local Pep Boys, Trak Auto, AutoZone, etc. And ask to have it turned. Should cost $5-10 ea. Takes 30 min.
Well, it matters how much it is warped, quite often if you can plainly tell from pressing on the brake pedal that the rotor is warped, it is warped to the point where resurfacing will go past the legal limit on thickness for the rotor.
>>>>>You must be joking, right?? This is a rotor for an import and that = big $$$ Expect upwards of $100 per rotor.
If you order it from OEM nissan parts, you can also order it from taiwan from some manufacturer for about 30 bucks or so and have the same performance. That is what we routinely do at our automotive shop at school and we have had great results with these rotors, no complaints and great performance. I actually looked up the price on maxima rotors, turns out they are a bit more expensive, like 60 bucks but still not too bad.
>>>>>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
>>>>>No.
YES!!!!!! you should never do any work to a rotor and not do the same work on the other side. It will cause the car to pull to the side with the thicker rotors and this will cause large problems. It is a known rule that you should absolutely never do any work to a rotor on one side without doing the same work on the other side.
>>>>>how about calipers
>>>>>highly doubtful.
You should not replace pads only on one side either, you always need to make sure both sides of the car break the same, or as close as possible.
09-18-2000, 08:26 PM
#17
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i really appreciate the responses I am getting.
I am waiting a bit more...
I did notice.. whenever i had my 17" x 8 tires on... when i break the car tends to pull to one side.. but it was always a different side...
could this be due to uneven road surface ?
it never happened on smooth road...
and as for rotor turning ... is it easy ? advisable ?
I did notice.. whenever i had my 17" x 8 tires on... when i break the car tends to pull to one side.. but it was always a different side...
could this be due to uneven road surface ?
it never happened on smooth road...
and as for rotor turning ... is it easy ? advisable ?
09-18-2000, 09:04 PM
#18
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If it doesnt happen on smooth roads, but happens on bad roads, logic would have to tell me that the road is the problem. As far as rotor turning, i am not familiar with this term but i assume they mean rotor ressurfacing because of the turning motion. This is an adviseable thing to do once in a while yes, but if your rotor is warped to where you feel pulsing on a petal, there is a good chance they wont be able to be resurfaced within legal spec. Like you can take it to pep boys, or any auto store and they will resurface the rotors, and then they will measure them with a micrometer. Each rotor comes from the manufacturer with a minimum thickness. if the rotors were resurfaced past this thickness, the auto store will not give the rotors back to you because they will be liable for what happens since it is illegal for them to give these rotors back to you. You can try resurfacing, it might work might not, its worth a shot though cause you will save some money if it is possible to resurface them. I am not aware of any way of measuring warpage to find out if it is possible to machine them to not be warped within legal spec, hopefully someone else can tell you how to do this.
[Edited by LuvSpeed on 09-18-2000 at 11:09 PM]
[Edited by LuvSpeed on 09-18-2000 at 11:09 PM]
09-19-2000, 07:12 AM
#19
Damn i missed a good discussion...my $.02
Originally posted by mhgsx
>do the Maximas use a multilink front suspension setup (upper and lower control arms)? If so, check the lower control arm bushing (also called lower pillowball bushing or tension rod).
>No, the front suspension uses struts.
>>>>
i think he's asking about a double wishbone suspension or suspension w/ two ctrl arms...single or double they all use struts..(i'm talking about imports and not old *** GM cars)..but the max have one lower control arm up front. i believe double for the rear...maybe single since 4th gens went to beam axle.
>well check if it is warped, if it is and you only need to replace one rotor,
Replace???? You guys must have lots of $$$$ to spend if you're gonna replace your rotors each time they warp.
Take off the rotor(s) and bring it to the local Pep Boys, Trak Auto, AutoZone, etc. And ask to have it turned. Should cost $5-10 ea. Takes 30 min.
>>>>
sure...i guess u have no idea of what people do and how people drive on this BBS..sure resurface is fine for grandma drivers..but if the rotor is warped it's warped for a reason...it doesn't warp becasue it's sitting there. a lot of the warping is due to overheating of the brakes. now if u shave (cut) more material off the rotor...the rotor will get hotter and warp faster the next time around.
>not much money. For a normal rotor, you can usually get them for abot 10-30 dollars on most cars, some as low as 5,
You must be joking, right?? This is a rotor for an import and that = big $$$ Expect upwards of $100 per rotor.
>>>
well above 100 per rotor is a wee bit on the high side..but yes i agree it's a lot more than 10-30 bucks. i would guess it's like 60 or so per rotor.
>replacing a rotor should not affect allignment right ?
Not unless you have absolutely NO idea about what you're doing. Unbolt the brake caliper from the hub, wire it to the spring to keep it out of the way, and pull on the rotor. That's it.
>>>
yup that's it
>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
No.
>>>
well why do u say no? i say if the one side is wearing thin..the other side is on the way out. they don't sell brake pads per wheel..so why not put on new rotors on the axle set with new pads?
>how about calipers
highly doubtful.
>>>>
well they can be frozen..(siezed) and causing the overheating to warp the rotors..so yes CHECK EVERYTHING.
>could i switch them and see if the problem feels like it is following a specific rotor ?
why waste your time?? if you pull them off, you might as well get them turned anyway.
>>>
enh...well that involves two cars right? pull rotor...go to shop..have them machined. if the guy is far out from the shop he'll need a ride there to have them check. but yes since it's off might as well have them checked out...but if he's in a jam he can try swapping sides..(i don't recommend it though).
Oh, and YOUR WELCOME!!
>>>
errr..don't think u know everything that needs to know on brakes. are u a mechanic?
Dan
>do the Maximas use a multilink front suspension setup (upper and lower control arms)? If so, check the lower control arm bushing (also called lower pillowball bushing or tension rod).
>No, the front suspension uses struts.
>>>>
i think he's asking about a double wishbone suspension or suspension w/ two ctrl arms...single or double they all use struts..(i'm talking about imports and not old *** GM cars)..but the max have one lower control arm up front. i believe double for the rear...maybe single since 4th gens went to beam axle.
>well check if it is warped, if it is and you only need to replace one rotor,
Replace???? You guys must have lots of $$$$ to spend if you're gonna replace your rotors each time they warp.
Take off the rotor(s) and bring it to the local Pep Boys, Trak Auto, AutoZone, etc. And ask to have it turned. Should cost $5-10 ea. Takes 30 min.
>>>>
sure...i guess u have no idea of what people do and how people drive on this BBS..sure resurface is fine for grandma drivers..but if the rotor is warped it's warped for a reason...it doesn't warp becasue it's sitting there. a lot of the warping is due to overheating of the brakes. now if u shave (cut) more material off the rotor...the rotor will get hotter and warp faster the next time around.
>not much money. For a normal rotor, you can usually get them for abot 10-30 dollars on most cars, some as low as 5,
You must be joking, right?? This is a rotor for an import and that = big $$$ Expect upwards of $100 per rotor.
>>>
well above 100 per rotor is a wee bit on the high side..but yes i agree it's a lot more than 10-30 bucks. i would guess it's like 60 or so per rotor.
>replacing a rotor should not affect allignment right ?
Not unless you have absolutely NO idea about what you're doing. Unbolt the brake caliper from the hub, wire it to the spring to keep it out of the way, and pull on the rotor. That's it.
>>>
yup that's it
>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
No.
>>>
well why do u say no? i say if the one side is wearing thin..the other side is on the way out. they don't sell brake pads per wheel..so why not put on new rotors on the axle set with new pads?
>how about calipers
highly doubtful.
>>>>
well they can be frozen..(siezed) and causing the overheating to warp the rotors..so yes CHECK EVERYTHING.
>could i switch them and see if the problem feels like it is following a specific rotor ?
why waste your time?? if you pull them off, you might as well get them turned anyway.
>>>
enh...well that involves two cars right? pull rotor...go to shop..have them machined. if the guy is far out from the shop he'll need a ride there to have them check. but yes since it's off might as well have them checked out...but if he's in a jam he can try swapping sides..(i don't recommend it though).
Oh, and YOUR WELCOME!!
>>>
errr..don't think u know everything that needs to know on brakes. are u a mechanic?
Dan
09-19-2000, 07:17 AM
#20
Re: i really appreciate the responses I am getting.
Originally posted by amixam69
I am waiting a bit more...
I did notice.. whenever i had my 17" x 8 tires on... when i break the car tends to pull to one side.. but it was always a different side...
could this be due to uneven road surface ?
it never happened on smooth road...
and as for rotor turning ... is it easy ? advisable ?
I am waiting a bit more...
I did notice.. whenever i had my 17" x 8 tires on... when i break the car tends to pull to one side.. but it was always a different side...
could this be due to uneven road surface ?
it never happened on smooth road...
and as for rotor turning ... is it easy ? advisable ?
Dan
09-19-2000, 08:26 AM
#21
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 60
>errr..don't think u know everything that needs to know on brakes. are u a mechanic?
absolutely not. But I've raced enough years and worked on my cars enough that I've got a pretty good background. Plus my former boss was also a car mechanic (whom I use as my reference and go to guy if there's a prob). I was also a bike mechanic for 9 years. (does that count any?? ahaha)
>>>>>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
>>>>>No.
>YES!!!!!! you should never do any work to a rotor and not do the same work on the other side. It will cause the car
to pull to the side with the thicker rotors and this will cause large problems. It is a known rule that you should absolutely never do any work to a rotor on one side without doing the same work on the other side.
Ok, since the brakes use a floating caliper design, and the brakes are self adjusting, mind explaining the physics behind the car pulling to one side.???
One side will NOT see more pressure than the other. The actual surface area the brake pads contact HASN'T changed.
So what causes one side to 'grab' more than the other??
>If you order it from OEM nissan parts, you can also order it from taiwan from some manufacturer
My mechanic friend has had some really bad experiences w/ Chinese and Taiwanese made rotors. The iron they use isn't as good. Saving money on these isn't worth it.
absolutely not. But I've raced enough years and worked on my cars enough that I've got a pretty good background. Plus my former boss was also a car mechanic (whom I use as my reference and go to guy if there's a prob). I was also a bike mechanic for 9 years. (does that count any?? ahaha)
>>>>>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
>>>>>No.
>YES!!!!!! you should never do any work to a rotor and not do the same work on the other side. It will cause the car
to pull to the side with the thicker rotors and this will cause large problems. It is a known rule that you should absolutely never do any work to a rotor on one side without doing the same work on the other side.
Ok, since the brakes use a floating caliper design, and the brakes are self adjusting, mind explaining the physics behind the car pulling to one side.???
One side will NOT see more pressure than the other. The actual surface area the brake pads contact HASN'T changed.
So what causes one side to 'grab' more than the other??
>If you order it from OEM nissan parts, you can also order it from taiwan from some manufacturer
My mechanic friend has had some really bad experiences w/ Chinese and Taiwanese made rotors. The iron they use isn't as good. Saving money on these isn't worth it.
09-19-2000, 09:06 AM
#22
Originally posted by mhgsx
>errr..don't think u know everything that needs to know on brakes. are u a mechanic?
absolutely not. But I've raced enough years and worked on my cars enough that I've got a pretty good background. Plus my former boss was also a car mechanic (whom I use as my reference and go to guy if there's a prob). I was also a bike mechanic for 9 years. (does that count any?? ahaha)
>>>
hmmm ok fair enough. i've done a lot of brakes myself...so i guess we see things differently. but i guess i'm more on the performance aspect of it. BTW.doing brake on a bike is totally different than cars..the brakes on a bike are wide open to cooling..cars are not. but do u see some of the points i pointed out in my post?
>>>>>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
>>>>>No.
>YES!!!!!! you should never do any work to a rotor and not do the same work on the other side. It will cause the car
to pull to the side with the thicker rotors and this will cause large problems. It is a known rule that you should absolutely never do any work to a rotor on one side without doing the same work on the other side.
>>>>
ok i didn't say this...but i have to say the sliding/floating caliper design allows for difference in the rotor thickness. so you can have 4 rotors w/ diff thickness and it'll still stop fine.
Ok, since the brakes use a floating caliper design, and the brakes are self adjusting, mind explaining the physics behind the car pulling to one side.???
One side will NOT see more pressure than the other. The actual surface area the brake pads contact HASN'T changed.
So what causes one side to 'grab' more than the other??
>>>>
yup..the distance from the pad and the rotor is the same so there's no change in braking performance.
>If you order it from OEM nissan parts, you can also order it from taiwan from some manufacturer
My mechanic friend has had some really bad experiences w/ Chinese and Taiwanese made rotors. The iron they use isn't as good. Saving money on these isn't worth it.
>>>>
yes i agree..i recommend getting brembo rotors..(made in italy) =)
the asian (china and tawain) metals are not as good...pay a little more now..or pay A LOT more later.
Dan
>errr..don't think u know everything that needs to know on brakes. are u a mechanic?
absolutely not. But I've raced enough years and worked on my cars enough that I've got a pretty good background. Plus my former boss was also a car mechanic (whom I use as my reference and go to guy if there's a prob). I was also a bike mechanic for 9 years. (does that count any?? ahaha)
>>>
hmmm ok fair enough. i've done a lot of brakes myself...so i guess we see things differently. but i guess i'm more on the performance aspect of it. BTW.doing brake on a bike is totally different than cars..the brakes on a bike are wide open to cooling..cars are not. but do u see some of the points i pointed out in my post?
>>>>>is there a reason why i should get them in pairs ?
>>>>>No.
>YES!!!!!! you should never do any work to a rotor and not do the same work on the other side. It will cause the car
to pull to the side with the thicker rotors and this will cause large problems. It is a known rule that you should absolutely never do any work to a rotor on one side without doing the same work on the other side.
>>>>
ok i didn't say this...but i have to say the sliding/floating caliper design allows for difference in the rotor thickness. so you can have 4 rotors w/ diff thickness and it'll still stop fine.
Ok, since the brakes use a floating caliper design, and the brakes are self adjusting, mind explaining the physics behind the car pulling to one side.???
One side will NOT see more pressure than the other. The actual surface area the brake pads contact HASN'T changed.
So what causes one side to 'grab' more than the other??
>>>>
yup..the distance from the pad and the rotor is the same so there's no change in braking performance.
>If you order it from OEM nissan parts, you can also order it from taiwan from some manufacturer
My mechanic friend has had some really bad experiences w/ Chinese and Taiwanese made rotors. The iron they use isn't as good. Saving money on these isn't worth it.
>>>>
yes i agree..i recommend getting brembo rotors..(made in italy) =)
the asian (china and tawain) metals are not as good...pay a little more now..or pay A LOT more later.
Dan
09-19-2000, 06:06 PM
#23
I usually don't recommend resurfacing the rotors. Since you are making it thinner, you're just making it more prone to warping down the road since you're taking off more mass.
I can probably get Brembo OE replacement rotors (which should be slightly less than the Nissan ones) if there's enough interest to warrant carrying them.
I can probably get Brembo OE replacement rotors (which should be slightly less than the Nissan ones) if there's enough interest to warrant carrying them.
09-19-2000, 10:39 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 60
>No, the front suspension uses struts.
>>>>i think he's asking about a double wishbone suspension or suspension w/ two ctrl arms...single or double they all use struts..(i'm talking about imports and not old *** GM cars)..but the max have one lower control arm up front. i believe double for the rear...maybe single since 4th gens went to beam axle.
The proper definition of a strut front suspension is when the actual strut itself acts as an 'arm'. (for lack of a better word at this moment of brain fade) The strut 'holds' the hub and allows it to twist.
My GSX w/ a double wishbone front doesn't use a strut, it uses a shock. There is a difference. A shock is designed to move on one plane, vertically. A strut is designed to move in two planes, vertically and horizontally (twisting motion).
The term 'struts' has traditionally been used interchangebly with 'shocks' in the past, but it is still wrong.
With all the techno lingo that the manufacturers are spewing, it is hard to keep up the definitions. As you point out, does a strut design that uses 2 control arms constitute a 'multi link' suspension? Where does a trailing arm design fall into? Strut or shock suspension?
My favorite is the 'mid' engine design. I've gotten in way too many arguments w/ people who firmly believe that a mid engined car MUST have it's engine behind the driver. and they're dead wrong. (ie. the S2K is a mid engine car)
sorry for the babbling, it's late.
>>>>i think he's asking about a double wishbone suspension or suspension w/ two ctrl arms...single or double they all use struts..(i'm talking about imports and not old *** GM cars)..but the max have one lower control arm up front. i believe double for the rear...maybe single since 4th gens went to beam axle.
The proper definition of a strut front suspension is when the actual strut itself acts as an 'arm'. (for lack of a better word at this moment of brain fade) The strut 'holds' the hub and allows it to twist.
My GSX w/ a double wishbone front doesn't use a strut, it uses a shock. There is a difference. A shock is designed to move on one plane, vertically. A strut is designed to move in two planes, vertically and horizontally (twisting motion).
The term 'struts' has traditionally been used interchangebly with 'shocks' in the past, but it is still wrong.
With all the techno lingo that the manufacturers are spewing, it is hard to keep up the definitions. As you point out, does a strut design that uses 2 control arms constitute a 'multi link' suspension? Where does a trailing arm design fall into? Strut or shock suspension?
My favorite is the 'mid' engine design. I've gotten in way too many arguments w/ people who firmly believe that a mid engined car MUST have it's engine behind the driver. and they're dead wrong. (ie. the S2K is a mid engine car)
sorry for the babbling, it's late.
09-19-2000, 10:59 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 60
>but do u see some of the points i pointed out in my post?
sorry, but I originally didn't see your contributions due to the font being the same. My bad.
For the most part, I don't see that many positions of which we disagree.
Regarding your's and another's post about turning the rotor would remove enough metal that it would warp again anyways:
you can't make a blanket statement like this because there are too many reasons why a rotor can warp. The number one reason is poor driving technique. Drive the car fast, brake at the last minute, and hold down the brake while waiting at the light. Excellent way to warp your rotors.
Drive thru that puddle that didn't seem that deep. Warped rotors.
Uneven lug nut torque, get the brakes nice and toasty. Warped rotors.
$hitty brakes pads. Warped rotors. (yes, even if none of the above coincided)
But my all time favorite: by nature, cast rotors will have grain irregularities. these cause the rotor to cool at different rates, thus causing it to warp. (it's true, it's true) The good news is that it shouldn't warp any more after the initial warping. So have them cut, and you shouldn't have your rotor warp again due to this phenomena. (but if you do any of things mentioned above, all bets are off.)
My rotor 'break in' involves running in the new rotor for a week w/ medium to medium-hard stops. This lets the rotor take its 'set'. After the week is up, I have them turned. No warping.
I run cast rotors of the stock size w/ the GSX. I've had the brakes at temps that most will never see. And I've never had a rotor warp because of the heat. maybe I'm just lucky.
good luck
sorry, but I originally didn't see your contributions due to the font being the same. My bad.
For the most part, I don't see that many positions of which we disagree.
Regarding your's and another's post about turning the rotor would remove enough metal that it would warp again anyways:
you can't make a blanket statement like this because there are too many reasons why a rotor can warp. The number one reason is poor driving technique. Drive the car fast, brake at the last minute, and hold down the brake while waiting at the light. Excellent way to warp your rotors.
Drive thru that puddle that didn't seem that deep. Warped rotors.
Uneven lug nut torque, get the brakes nice and toasty. Warped rotors.
$hitty brakes pads. Warped rotors. (yes, even if none of the above coincided)
But my all time favorite: by nature, cast rotors will have grain irregularities. these cause the rotor to cool at different rates, thus causing it to warp. (it's true, it's true) The good news is that it shouldn't warp any more after the initial warping. So have them cut, and you shouldn't have your rotor warp again due to this phenomena. (but if you do any of things mentioned above, all bets are off.)
My rotor 'break in' involves running in the new rotor for a week w/ medium to medium-hard stops. This lets the rotor take its 'set'. After the week is up, I have them turned. No warping.
I run cast rotors of the stock size w/ the GSX. I've had the brakes at temps that most will never see. And I've never had a rotor warp because of the heat. maybe I'm just lucky.
good luck
09-20-2000, 04:03 AM
#26
Originally posted by mhgsx
Uneven lug nut torque, get the brakes nice and toasty. Warped rotors.
Uneven lug nut torque, get the brakes nice and toasty. Warped rotors.
09-20-2000, 08:07 AM
#27
Originally posted by mhgsx
>but do u see some of the points i pointed out in my post?
sorry, but I originally didn't see your contributions due to the font being the same. My bad.
For the most part, I don't see that many positions of which we disagree.
Regarding your's and another's post about turning the rotor would remove enough metal that it would warp again anyways:
you can't make a blanket statement like this because there are too many reasons why a rotor can warp. The number one reason is poor driving technique. Drive the car fast, brake at the last minute, and hold down the brake while waiting at the light. Excellent way to warp your rotors.
>>>
yes i agree...the driving fast and stopping short will warp the rotors..also uneven cooling
Drive thru that puddle that didn't seem that deep. Warped rotors.
>>
yup..also agree..uneven cooling
Uneven lug nut torque, get the brakes nice and toasty. Warped rotors.
>>>>
mechanical force..agree with you there
$hitty brakes pads. Warped rotors. (yes, even if none of the above coincided)
>>>>
also agree...pads that are chewing up the brakes and etc..running them too hot?
But my all time favorite: by nature, cast rotors will have grain irregularities. these cause the rotor to cool at different rates, thus causing it to warp. (it's true, it's true) The good news is that it shouldn't warp any more after the initial warping. So have them cut, and you shouldn't have your rotor warp again due to this phenomena. (but if you do any of things mentioned above, all bets are off.)
>>>
well why not just go out and get a QUALITY rotor and not have the problem with the iron? i mean if you have a warped rotor due to the iron..why cut it and make it worst?
My rotor 'break in' involves running in the new rotor for a week w/ medium to medium-hard stops. This lets the rotor take its 'set'. After the week is up, I have them turned. No warping.
>>>>>
yup..sounds right to me
well a lot of those causes are heat related. so it's safe to say if the rotors are newer w/ more material heat, it will warp less? since it's running cooler.
I run cast rotors of the stock size w/ the GSX. I've had the brakes at temps that most will never see. And I've never had a rotor warp because of the heat. maybe I'm just lucky.
>>>
well from what you say you take care of your brakes...
Dan
>but do u see some of the points i pointed out in my post?
sorry, but I originally didn't see your contributions due to the font being the same. My bad.
For the most part, I don't see that many positions of which we disagree.
Regarding your's and another's post about turning the rotor would remove enough metal that it would warp again anyways:
you can't make a blanket statement like this because there are too many reasons why a rotor can warp. The number one reason is poor driving technique. Drive the car fast, brake at the last minute, and hold down the brake while waiting at the light. Excellent way to warp your rotors.
>>>
yes i agree...the driving fast and stopping short will warp the rotors..also uneven cooling
Drive thru that puddle that didn't seem that deep. Warped rotors.
>>
yup..also agree..uneven cooling
Uneven lug nut torque, get the brakes nice and toasty. Warped rotors.
>>>>
mechanical force..agree with you there
$hitty brakes pads. Warped rotors. (yes, even if none of the above coincided)
>>>>
also agree...pads that are chewing up the brakes and etc..running them too hot?
But my all time favorite: by nature, cast rotors will have grain irregularities. these cause the rotor to cool at different rates, thus causing it to warp. (it's true, it's true) The good news is that it shouldn't warp any more after the initial warping. So have them cut, and you shouldn't have your rotor warp again due to this phenomena. (but if you do any of things mentioned above, all bets are off.)
>>>
well why not just go out and get a QUALITY rotor and not have the problem with the iron? i mean if you have a warped rotor due to the iron..why cut it and make it worst?
My rotor 'break in' involves running in the new rotor for a week w/ medium to medium-hard stops. This lets the rotor take its 'set'. After the week is up, I have them turned. No warping.
>>>>>
yup..sounds right to me
well a lot of those causes are heat related. so it's safe to say if the rotors are newer w/ more material heat, it will warp less? since it's running cooler.
I run cast rotors of the stock size w/ the GSX. I've had the brakes at temps that most will never see. And I've never had a rotor warp because of the heat. maybe I'm just lucky.
>>>
well from what you say you take care of your brakes...
Dan
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