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JWT/ECU & MEVI combo finally earns it's keep......14.19 @ 98.54mph

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Old 11-10-2003 | 11:11 AM
  #41  
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Point taken... But what I meant about the whole lean bit is that maybe the JWT Fuel Map is programmed for the USIM, and doesn't account for the substantially higher airflow at high RPM of the MEVI. And since the race fuel is more resistant to detonation, the high cylinder temps wouldn't cause the knock sensor to jump in, freeing up some extra HP Either way, 14.1 is an awesome time
Old 11-10-2003 | 11:22 AM
  #42  
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JWT can alter fuel curves correct. But the Nissan ecu and most all other modern computer controlled fuel injected engines use the 02 sensor for the fine tuning of the a/f ratios. Since many here have used the stock maf/02 sensors for their turbo applications, the jwt + mevi is well within the Nissan / jwt ecu a/f parmeters. Or am I misunderstanding your question?

Originally Posted by IwANnAMaX96
Point taken... But what I meant about the whole lean bit is that maybe the JWT Fuel Map is programmed for the USIM, and doesn't account for the substantially higher airflow at high RPM of the MEVI. And since the race fuel is more resistant to detonation, the high cylinder temps wouldn't cause the knock sensor to jump in, freeing up some extra HP Either way, 14.1 is an awesome time
Old 11-10-2003 | 01:52 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Not necessarily true. As far as the MEVI running the car too lean up top. I guarantee that's not it. Our maf can deal with the airflow of 300hp without a problem.

I do not believe JWTs programming is aggressive enough to advance timing to the point of knock on a car that is running right. JWTs program is designed to work with the 91 octane crap they get out in california.

Try this theory on for size. Mikes knock sensor could have been a bit messed up. Because his knocksensor was hypersensitive it was pulling timing a bit thus losing power. However on a car with a knocksensor that was in normal working order, there would have been no retard in timing, thus mike by putting race gas in the car made it so his messed up knock sensor was acting as a WORKING knock sensor should, and did not pull any timing. Thus he was making the power he should have been making all along.
I know I don't have a knock sensor code, but I guess all that means is that it is within the correct voltage parameters. It could very well be "oversensitive". I recall a SCC article a while back that said the knock sensor on a sr20 sentra caused some of the most inconsistant dyno's they had seen. They bypassed the knock sensor and it became one of the most consistant dynoing cars. They went on to say that things other than knock may trigger the kncok sensor to retard timming. I think they ended up wraping the knock sensor in a towel so it could not sense any outside vibrations that it would deem to be knock.

I have another used knock sensor that is supposed to be in good working order. I guess I could try that and run with no race gas and see what happens, but I don't see that happening this season because Byron only has one more weekend left to run.

Although I am very happy with my times, I am not real happy that I have to use race gas to get the full potential out of my car. I really don't think the JWT needs the race gas but I need to figure out why I am not getting the power out of 93 pump gas.
Old 11-10-2003 | 02:00 PM
  #44  
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yeah, I think SCC ended up relocating the KS on that sr20de to the firewall.
Old 11-10-2003 | 02:02 PM
  #45  
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Oh, and I found this while tooling around the web. I guess I am a ricer.....

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
Old 11-10-2003 | 02:04 PM
  #46  
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Mike every consider using the KS resistor mod? I have one for my VE30DE JWT equipped maxima. Once I put in the resistor, the car imediately feels stronger in the lower end. Since it's wintertime, the engine doesn't ping at all(or not that I can hear)
Old 11-10-2003 | 04:33 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Oh, and I found this while tooling around the web. I guess I am a ricer.....

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
do you know the guy that was telling people your times or what?
was that the rice police forum?
Old 11-10-2003 | 06:51 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by CullenJ76
do you know the guy that was telling people your times or what?
was that the rice police forum?
No I don't know the guy. I think he might own a I35 though by how he was talking.


Mike every consider using the KS resistor mod? I have one for my VE30DE JWT equipped maxima. Once I put in the resistor, the car imediately feels stronger in the lower end. Since it's wintertime, the engine doesn't ping at all(or not that I can hear)
Honestly I don't know much about the resistor mod excpet that people have tried it. I would have to do some reading up on the results, but you say it has worked for you. I am a little leary of not having a knock sensor and would like to try and use my spare knock sensor first. Have there been OBD scans showing that the resistor works just like there is still a knock sensor present? What ever I do it will have to be backed up with dyno or track runs because my butt dyno is not that sensitive.
Old 11-12-2003 | 10:00 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Not necessarily true. As far as the MEVI running the car too lean up top. I guarantee that's not it. Our maf can deal with the airflow of 300hp without a problem.

I do not believe JWTs programming is aggressive enough to advance timing to the point of knock on a car that is running right. JWTs program is designed to work with the 91 octane crap they get out in california.

Try this theory on for size. Mikes knock sensor could have been a bit messed up. Because his knocksensor was hypersensitive it was pulling timing a bit thus losing power. However on a car with a knocksensor that was in normal working order, there would have been no retard in timing, thus mike by putting race gas in the car made it so his messed up knock sensor was acting as a WORKING knock sensor should, and did not pull any timing. Thus he was making the power he should have been making all along.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Not necessarily true. As far as the MEVI running the car too lean up top. I guarantee that's not it. Our maf can deal with the airflow of 300hp without a problem.

I do not believe JWTs programming is aggressive enough to advance timing to the point of knock on a car that is running right. JWTs program is designed to work with the 91 octane crap they get out in california.

Try this theory on for size. Mikes knock sensor could have been a bit messed up. Because his knocksensor was hypersensitive it was pulling timing a bit thus losing power. However on a car with a knocksensor that was in normal working order, there would have been no retard in timing, thus mike by putting race gas in the car made it so his messed up knock sensor was acting as a WORKING knock sensor should, and did not pull any timing. Thus he was making the power he should have been making all along.
For me, race gas has helped the 3 times I used it. The reason I tried it was because of an article I read in SCC where a bonestock 350Z picked up ~8 rwhp by simply switching to 100 vs 91 octane. IMO, the JWT ECU might be fairly aggressive with the timing and factoring the high mileage of my car, the carbon buildup on the heads has probably raised compression a little higher. All this can possibly lead to detonation when running 91-92 octane. My knock sensor is fine. It throw no codes, checks out fine with a voltmeter, and is new as of 10 month ago. I've run a 96-97 octane mix 3 times now. With it I've run:

14.451@99.51mph with a 2.31 60' (50s, dry air) (March)
14.451@96.95mph with a 2.20 60' (80s, dry air) (April)
14.612@94.00mph with a 2.21 60' on 17s, all tools/spare (100+ degrees, humid) (August)

The best I've done with just 92 octane is 14.59@95.6mph with a mid 2.2 60' in 70 degree weather. I've consistently been in the 14.6s@95-96mph.

This Sunday I'll be going to the track and I'll be running race gas again. I'm going for broke. The passenger seat and bench are coming out, 97 octane in the tank, trunk gutted, 15s all around, and powershifting. Weather should be in the 50s.


Dave
Old 11-12-2003 | 10:09 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Dave B

This Sunday I'll be going to the track and I'll be running race gas again. I'm going for broke. The passenger seat and bench are coming out, 97 octane in the tank, trunk gutted, 15s all around, and powershifting. Weather should be in the 50s.


Dave
might just beat me to the 100 traps. I am so close its not even funny 99.97. The ECU if I purchase it should put me there

ohhh and good luck
Old 11-12-2003 | 10:21 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
This Sunday I'll be going to the track and I'll be running race gas again. I'm going for broke. The passenger seat and bench are coming out, 97 octane in the tank, trunk gutted, 15s all around, and powershifting. Weather should be in the 50s.


Dave
Pull some good 60 foots and there is no reason you won't run just as fast or faster then me.
Old 11-13-2003 | 07:59 AM
  #52  
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I just looked at the guys signature who called you a ricer over there. Grilles, subs, cheap amps, etc.

Pot. Kettle.
Old 11-13-2003 | 07:38 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
I just looked at the guys signature who called you a ricer over there. Grilles, subs, cheap amps, etc.

Pot. Kettle.



uhhhhh....so you are calling me a rice as well. I new you thought my car was rice. Remember this, "I like the cefiro badge, I really do...." d!ck heaed!
Old 11-16-2003 | 09:31 AM
  #54  
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YEAH MIKE!!!!


I'M SO PROUD!!!!

haha.
Old 11-16-2003 | 09:34 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Thanks guys.

I finally figured out a way to consistantly pull sub 2.2 60's. Before today I could not break the 2.2 barrier for the life of me. The low rpm launch is what is working, 1200 to 1300 rpms at the most. I had a slew of 2.20's, a pair of 2.19's a few 2.17's and the best was the 2.14.
its my opinion that that launch is AWESOME for small radius/lightweight wheels....for heavy/larger wheels i think you need more RPM to get um turning...
Old 11-16-2003 | 09:40 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I just look at it this way, it's much easier to control wheel spin from a 4-5 mph roll then it is taking off from a stand still.
it might feel like thats what you are doing...

but i gaurantee you are not running 2.1s with just rolling off the line....you are prolly going 1mph before you hit it all the way...
Old 11-17-2003 | 05:21 AM
  #57  
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Awesome !

Awesome Time / Great Driving

I see you made the Headlines at the Club GP forums. Interesting read.

What was with the guy who said:
My times reflect exactly what i run in street trim on 93 pump gas and with just lower tire pressure in the front.


Did you notice he takes his front headlight out at the track (see avatar) ?

Street Trim ...

Its all about mods and dont let anyone tell you otherwise !
Old 11-18-2003 | 05:33 AM
  #58  
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as i am reading this i am thinking to myself, "all i have to do is run once more." =P nice times!
Old 11-18-2003 | 06:51 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
Awesome Time / Great Driving

I see you made the Headlines at the Club GP forums. Interesting read.

What was with the guy who said:
My times reflect exactly what i run in street trim on 93 pump gas and with just lower tire pressure in the front.


Did you notice he takes his front headlight out at the track (see avatar) ?

Street Trim ...

Its all about mods and dont let anyone tell you otherwise !
link to that thread please
Old 11-18-2003 | 07:02 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
link to that thread please
how about you read this thread.. its in here
Old 11-18-2003 | 07:33 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Honestly I don't know much about the resistor mod excpet that people have tried it. I would have to do some reading up on the results, but you say it has worked for you. I am a little leary of not having a knock sensor and would like to try and use my spare knock sensor first. Have there been OBD scans showing that the resistor works just like there is still a knock sensor present? What ever I do it will have to be backed up with dyno or track runs because my butt dyno is not that sensitive.
Yes. The resistor trick definitely works. See my write-up in the 4th Gen FAQ. I did do a bunch of OBD-II logging.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=42

I would not run it with the ECU in the summer during high temp/humidity because I was getting some very light pinging even on 93 octane and stock timing and the JWT ECU advances the timing which would have made it more of a problem. That was 90F and very humid though. It should be safe to run now in cooler temps but don't run anything less than 91/93.
Old 11-18-2003 | 07:42 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by SprintMax
how about you read this thread.. its in here
ohhh shiet
Old 11-18-2003 | 11:46 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by SteVTEC
Yes. The resistor trick definitely works. See my write-up in the 4th Gen FAQ. I did do a bunch of OBD-II logging.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=42

I would not run it with the ECU in the summer during high temp/humidity because I was getting some very light pinging even on 93 octane and stock timing and the JWT ECU advances the timing which would have made it more of a problem. That was 90F and very humid though. It should be safe to run now in cooler temps but don't run anything less than 91/93.
Thanks Steve, I was going to PM you about this since I know you have a OBD-II scanner. What I think I will do is dyno test this. I was going to dyno this winter anyhow and I won't have any new mods to do comparison runs with. So I may do a knock sensor pull and a resistor mod pull to see if I see any gains. I should be able to see any significant knock on the curves as well. I just want my car to take full advantage of the timing increase from the JWT ECU w/o having to run race gas. I still need to check the resistance of my knock sensor, I may just have a failing one that is retarding my timing, but not had enough to throw a CEL.
Old 11-19-2003 | 06:21 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
What I think I will do is dyno test this. I was going to dyno this winter anyhow and I won't have any new mods to do comparison runs with. So I may do a knock sensor pull and a resistor mod pull to see if I see any gains. I should be able to see any significant knock on the curves as well. I just want my car to take full advantage of the timing increase from the JWT ECU w/o having to run race gas. I still need to check the resistance of my knock sensor, I may just have a failing one that is retarding my timing, but not had enough to throw a CEL.
Let me know when you want to go. APG's pretty fussy about charging for more than 2 pulls. SP is a lot more flexible.
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