*pictures* Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid - Secret is out
looks great Jason....I will keep an eye out for the installed pics... 
Originally Posted by krismax
If a trunk can be made so light, why are the hoods for are car so heavy?
A may be in for a 96 ,pending more info.
A may be in for a 96 ,pending more info.
Having a CF trunk or hood probably reduces crash safety, if u care about that.
Originally Posted by thebigsadler
Hopefully I will answer all of the questions asked:
This trunk lid is obviously much lighter than the stock unit, and will definitely lift much easier, but not to the point that it will be shot up off the car. If our trunk was on shocks, it may be an issue, but the tensioners are to make lifting easier and won't add any hassle.
We removed the trunk keyhole because it adds some complexity to the design and would probably bring the price up quite a bit. I don't know if you have ever tried to take off the key slot, but it is not an easy task, and part of this design is to keep it as easy to install as possible. I have yet to hear of anyone, anyone, having problems with their trunk popper not working (unless the battery is dead), and in that case if you need to get in the trunk you can take off the door panel and tap the power wire as a last resort. To have a keyhole punched is not an option that we will offer, but would be the hardest thing to add if it was so desired (it's more cost effective for us to do a shaved unit, then to punch a hole and make a second mold).
The underside of this lid is a flat black, and is made of fiberglass. Carbon fiber is one of the strongest materials when laid correctly and will flex less than a metal, as does fiberglass. Almost 95% of all high end car stereo setups are made up of fiberglass enclosures because there is so little flex and chance for resonance (from what I have been told). This trunk lid will not rattle as much as stock, if at all.
This trunk lid is obviously for the 97-99 4th gen'ers, but as mentioned a 95-96 one should be out in january (by the time this group deal is nearing an end). I will provide more information on this shortly, when I receive it.
I really have to see a substantial amount of interest, firm interest, from 5th and 3rd generation guys to get a mold made and have those units produced. However, I really want to have them made just to keep people from not feeling left out.
This trunk lid is obviously much lighter than the stock unit, and will definitely lift much easier, but not to the point that it will be shot up off the car. If our trunk was on shocks, it may be an issue, but the tensioners are to make lifting easier and won't add any hassle.
We removed the trunk keyhole because it adds some complexity to the design and would probably bring the price up quite a bit. I don't know if you have ever tried to take off the key slot, but it is not an easy task, and part of this design is to keep it as easy to install as possible. I have yet to hear of anyone, anyone, having problems with their trunk popper not working (unless the battery is dead), and in that case if you need to get in the trunk you can take off the door panel and tap the power wire as a last resort. To have a keyhole punched is not an option that we will offer, but would be the hardest thing to add if it was so desired (it's more cost effective for us to do a shaved unit, then to punch a hole and make a second mold).
The underside of this lid is a flat black, and is made of fiberglass. Carbon fiber is one of the strongest materials when laid correctly and will flex less than a metal, as does fiberglass. Almost 95% of all high end car stereo setups are made up of fiberglass enclosures because there is so little flex and chance for resonance (from what I have been told). This trunk lid will not rattle as much as stock, if at all.
This trunk lid is obviously for the 97-99 4th gen'ers, but as mentioned a 95-96 one should be out in january (by the time this group deal is nearing an end). I will provide more information on this shortly, when I receive it.
I really have to see a substantial amount of interest, firm interest, from 5th and 3rd generation guys to get a mold made and have those units produced. However, I really want to have them made just to keep people from not feeling left out.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,429
I would love to get me a hood and trunk in Carbon Fiber but damn shipping is always killing me.
Jason and Jose...can you get me a deal if i was to order a hood and a trunk at the same time shipped to Lahaina, Hawaii 96761?
A Stillen Type II wing copy in carbon fiber would look so hot with this trunk...I'll be the first one to buy if you made it.
Eric
Jason and Jose...can you get me a deal if i was to order a hood and a trunk at the same time shipped to Lahaina, Hawaii 96761?
A Stillen Type II wing copy in carbon fiber would look so hot with this trunk...I'll be the first one to buy if you made it.
Eric
To answer trunk rattling:
As far as the weave goes, this trunk lid looks incredibly similar to my hood, however it will be hard to tell unless you put them up next to eachother. I don't forsee this as a huge problem if they don't match up because they aren't butted up against eachother.
As far as safety issues, realistically anything hinders factory safety, however if a metal hood flips up due to impact, it will cause more damage than a carbon fiber hood. A trunk lid would probably crush easier, but being that it isn't metal, it probably won't affect the tensioning rods or the mounting arms. Catch 22.
Shipping to hawaii shouldn't be that much more expensive, but all pricing will be noted upon start of this group deal next week or so.
Carbon fiber is one of the strongest materials when laid correctly and will flex less than a metal, as does fiberglass. Almost 95% of all high end car stereo setups are made up of fiberglass enclosures because there is so little flex and chance for resonance (from what I have been told). This trunk lid will not rattle as much as stock, if at all.
As far as safety issues, realistically anything hinders factory safety, however if a metal hood flips up due to impact, it will cause more damage than a carbon fiber hood. A trunk lid would probably crush easier, but being that it isn't metal, it probably won't affect the tensioning rods or the mounting arms. Catch 22.
Shipping to hawaii shouldn't be that much more expensive, but all pricing will be noted upon start of this group deal next week or so.
I am interested for 3rd genner's.
Would you take out the middle section of the lights like Shaved max or would you leave holes for the lights to fit?
I would want no lights in my middle section of my 3rd gen's
Just like crazy4maxima said, Pricing?
Would you take out the middle section of the lights like Shaved max or would you leave holes for the lights to fit?
I would want no lights in my middle section of my 3rd gen's
Just like crazy4maxima said, Pricing?
Originally Posted by crazy4maxima
also another thing.. what about the force on the trunk to hold a wing?? wouldnt it rip off??? also are there gonn abe any hood pins too ??
As stated, pricing will be disclosed next week.
As for the 3rd gens, if there is enough interest, then we can go from there on deciding to shave certain parts off or leave parts.
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Do you guys use a "clean" room while working on the carbon fiber weaves? I saw some rather nasty looking CF pieces from an unmentioned company today, and they looked like shiit - sand under the clearcoat, weaves not being true all the way through the piece, different weave pattern, etc. Main thing is to use a clean room, preferably sprayed down with water so as to eliminate any dust that can, and will, settle on the CF before it is clear coated (glassed).
I will paint it anyways , if i get one without clearcoat or any type of polish or if you have one come out ****ty with a bad weave get ahold of me . For a small discount i'll take it off your hands. 
Originally Posted by krismax
I will paint it anyways , if i get one without clearcoat or any type of polish or if you have one come out ****ty with a bad weave get ahold of me . For a small discount i'll take it off your hands.
ditto on that.
Originally Posted by LithiuMax
Do you guys use a "clean" room while working on the carbon fiber weaves? I saw some rather nasty looking CF pieces from an unmentioned company today, and they looked like shiit - sand under the clearcoat, weaves not being true all the way through the piece, different weave pattern, etc. Main thing is to use a clean room, preferably sprayed down with water so as to eliminate any dust that can, and will, settle on the CF before it is clear coated (glassed).
i think this trunk would look amazing with the one pillar 350z carbon fiber wing they have out...it would be so clean and nice...and i hate wings. someone photochop it already for me 
sadler your the man
sadler your the man
Looks like there were a few delays, and now some shipping issues around holidays. I will hope to have pictures of before or after the first of the year.
Everyone should have plenty of christmas money to spend then
Everyone should have plenty of christmas money to spend then
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 905
A few questions....
1. what is the weave pattern for this CF?
2. what is the composite make up(meaning is it one layer of CF, or a few, or a mix of FBG with CF on top)?
3. Since it is the resin that keeps resonance and vibrations in check what is the thinckness of the trunk piece?
4. How is this manufactured(simple lay and dry, under vacuum, or in an autoclave)?
5. What are you're guys sealing the finished product with?--if not sealed properly it will turn milky very quickly
6. I know of a few people including myself that have intermitently working remote trunk release mechanisms...why would it be so hard to plan the key hole into the design? This would only take a slight modification to the plug and not a redesign.
1. what is the weave pattern for this CF?
2. what is the composite make up(meaning is it one layer of CF, or a few, or a mix of FBG with CF on top)?
3. Since it is the resin that keeps resonance and vibrations in check what is the thinckness of the trunk piece?
4. How is this manufactured(simple lay and dry, under vacuum, or in an autoclave)?
5. What are you're guys sealing the finished product with?--if not sealed properly it will turn milky very quickly
6. I know of a few people including myself that have intermitently working remote trunk release mechanisms...why would it be so hard to plan the key hole into the design? This would only take a slight modification to the plug and not a redesign.
Originally Posted by tampamax
A few questions....
1. what is the weave pattern for this CF?
1. what is the weave pattern for this CF?
2. what is the composite make up(meaning is it one layer of CF, or a few, or a mix of FBG with CF on top)?
3. Since it is the resin that keeps resonance and vibrations in check what is the thinckness of the trunk piece?
4. How is this manufactured(simple lay and dry, under vacuum, or in an autoclave)?
5. What are you're guys sealing the finished product with?--if not sealed properly it will turn milky very quickly
6. I know of a few people including myself that have intermitently working remote trunk release mechanisms...why would it be so hard to plan the key hole into the design? This would only take a slight modification to the plug and not a redesign.
Hopefully I answered all of your questions to the best of my abilities.