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200 amp alternator is here w/pics

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Old 04-06-2004 | 06:05 AM
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200 amp alternator is here w/pics

Well, I thought it was going to be bigger that the stocker but its actually a bit narrower. The baby built with new with all high powered parts and thick gauge wiring. It even comes with 10 feet of 4 gauge wire to connect the hot lead to the hot post on the battery. Spinning the pully by hand doesn't feel any different than the stocker because of the smaller pully. The only think I may need to do when I install this baby is get a smaller drive belt to compensate for the new pully size. Can't wait to get this bish in but I need a nice day which doesn't seem to be in the near future.
After I get it in, I'll post about the driveability which I know is a big concern for a lot of you guys. Stay tuned.

Side view:



Top view:



The neccessary 2 prong connector for my 97 Cali Spec:



New alt with new hot wire:

Old 04-06-2004 | 06:45 AM
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looks nice is that a copper pulley?
Old 04-06-2004 | 06:50 AM
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That loooks sweet! I might go for something similar if the time comes.
Old 04-06-2004 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
looks nice is that a copper pulley?
Not sure....
Old 04-06-2004 | 08:13 AM
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That can't be copper, can it? Too light.
Old 04-06-2004 | 08:32 AM
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Most likey it's brass or zinc plated steel. Copper is too soft to be used alone. brass is hard enough for stuff like that, but softens pretty quickly with heat and can cause slipping the belts (copper works as a self-lubing metal, so copper and brass are used in bushings a lot)..

the OEM ones are zinc plated steel, and I'm betting that's what that one is too. it's just a bright yellow zinc plating so it looks like brass. wanna find out? stick a magnet on it. if it sticks, steel. if not, brass.
Old 04-06-2004 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Most likey it's brass or zinc plated steel. Copper is too soft to be used alone. brass is hard enough for stuff like that, but softens pretty quickly with heat and can cause slipping the belts (copper works as a self-lubing metal, so copper and brass are used in bushings a lot)..

the OEM ones are zinc plated steel, and I'm betting that's what that one is too. it's just a bright yellow zinc plating so it looks like brass. wanna find out? stick a magnet on it. if it sticks, steel. if not, brass.
actually I was thinking brass when I posted I don't know why I typed copper.
Old 04-06-2004 | 08:52 AM
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It's just plated steel like the rest of them. I also noticed that it's smaller than the big stock one.

That stock one on the right is the more rare 125 amp, not the usual 110.
Old 04-06-2004 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SR20DEN
That stock one on the right is the more rare 125 amp, not the usual 110.
That's correct. I got this one from a site on the internet and thought it was the 110amp alt for the GXE Cali spec. The 110amp was what I ordered.
Old 04-06-2004 | 09:32 PM
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Looks purrrddy.
Old 04-07-2004 | 05:42 AM
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Thanks. I probably should have gone with an bright color with the powercoat but it'll due.

Quick question for anyone that can confirm this:

Can our alternators be considered a "one wire" setup or does the connector change things?
Old 04-07-2004 | 08:11 AM
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where did u get this alternator?
Old 04-07-2004 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
where did u get this alternator?
If I tell you, I'll have to kill you........

Can-Am Motors
13102 N Florida Ave
Tampa, FL 33612-3474
(813) 935-4199

Speak with Art.
Old 04-07-2004 | 03:48 PM
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What exactley is this gonna do? Will it help performance directly or is it just supposed to give the electrical system a boost?
Old 04-07-2004 | 04:17 PM
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Cool
I would get one if I ever get a system.
Old 04-07-2004 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ohannon7
What exactley is this gonna do? Will it help performance directly or is it just supposed to give the electrical system a boost?
Good question.

Most people think that in order to gain HP is to just add just add boost or add headers, intake, etc; but the number one component of any car is electricity. Yeah, you need gas and oxygen to make an engine run but the electricity has to be there. I don't know if you've ever driven a car with a weak alternator but the overall performance just plain sucks. So to answer your question, yes performance is directly effected by an alternator that is giving every component of the engine maximum current all of the time, no matter what other current draw you may have on in the car when the car is running.

Alternators have a large job to do and are often overlooked as a performance enhancement.

Personally, I didn't want to go with another Hitachi alternator because I keep making them overheat and cook.

Old 04-07-2004 | 05:29 PM
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I think mines dying, I deffinalty want to go bigger, thanks for the info deezo

-Tank
Old 04-07-2004 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo
Good question.

Most people think that in order to gain HP is to just add just add boost or add headers, intake, etc; but the number one component of any car is electricity. Yeah, you need gas and oxygen to make an engine run but the electricity has to be there. I don't know if you've ever driven a car with a weak alternator but the overall performance just plain sucks. So to answer your question, yes performance is directly effected by an alternator that is giving every component of the engine maximun current all of the time, no matter what other current draw you may have on in the car when the car is running.

Alternators have a large job to do and are often overlooked as a performance enhancement.

Personally, I didn't want to go with another Hitachi alternator because I keep making them overheat and cook.


I need one of these too. I have HIDs, a 1500 watt system, 4 tvs, gamecube... and I've been through 2 stock ones. Did you find out what size belt you have to get? Do these guys have a website to order from? Thanx...

Deac
Old 04-07-2004 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Deac
I need one of these too. I have HIDs, a 1500 watt system, 4 tvs, gamecube... and I've been through 2 stock ones. Did you find out what size belt you have to get? Do these guys have a website to order from? Thanx...

Deac
It sucks that they don't advertise online but here is there information:

Can-Am Motors
13102 N Florida Ave
Tampa, FL 33612-3474
(813) 935-4199

Speak with Art.

As far as the belt goes, I'm going to have to spend some time at Autozone to size one up. I think I'm going to get a belt that is an inch smaller in diameter.
Old 04-08-2004 | 10:05 AM
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how much cash did you put out for this, I go back home to Tampa about 4 times a year, maybe Ill swing by there in July when Im goin back......
Old 04-08-2004 | 10:12 AM
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$410 plus $13.30 for shipping to Boston.
Old 04-08-2004 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo
Well, I thought it was going to be bigger that the stocker but its actually a bit narrower. The baby built with new with all high powered parts and thick gauge wiring. It even comes with 10 feet of 4 gauge wire to connect the hot lead to the hot post on the battery. Spinning the pully by hand doesn't feel any different than the stocker because of the smaller pully. The only think I may need to do when I install this baby is get a smaller drive belt to compensate for the new pully size. Can't wait to get this bish in but I need a nice day which doesn't seem to be in the near future.
After I get it in, I'll post about the driveability which I know is a big concern for a lot of you guys. Stay tuned.

Side view:



New alt with new hot wire:

Your brand new hi amp alternator looks the same as my friends hi amp alternator from www.mechman.com that he has on his Nissan Hardbody with a NapZ motor. Here is a pic of the motor of the truck.


Old 04-09-2004 | 05:55 AM
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How many watts is your buddy's alt putting out?
Old 04-10-2004 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo
How many watts is your buddy's alt putting out?
I think you meant AMPS?, but we never did test it. But it does work because before installing it, his voltage would drop down to 12 volts and even to 11 when he has his stereo playing, his air compressor (air suspension) going. And his A/c on. And it got worst at night. But with it installed, his voltage is a constant 13 and up voltage at night. With nothing on at idle the voltage is at 14.8.
Old 04-10-2004 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEMaxima
I think you meant AMPS?, but we never did test it. But it does work because before installing it, his voltage would drop down to 12 volts and even to 11 when he has his stereo playing, his air compressor (air suspension) going. And his A/c on. And it got worst at night. But with it installed, his voltage is a constant 13 and up voltage at night. With nothing on at idle the voltage is at 14.8.
Sorry about that, I meant AMPS.

I don't know if you saw my other thread but I got it in and the car is running sweet now. My stereo definitely hits harder now. I checked my voltage on the cap's readout and it reads 14.1 to 14.2 when the stereo is on.
Old 11-02-2004 | 04:47 PM
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so...a few more Qs

Is it an internal or external voltage regulator, adjustable or not, is there an internal or external fan (can't tell from the pics). Do you know what the rectifiers and stators are made of? Amperage output at idle and max amp output at ?rpm.....if you can do this it would be crucial for me and my decision making...oh yeah and did you have to go with a new serpentine belt?...I had a Stinger H/O for my 98 GMC Sierra, ext., non-adjustable voltage reg...set at 12.6V....external fan, and pushed 160 amps at idle 600rpm, 220 at 3K rpm and I had to downsize my serpentine belt or it would slip at times....I wish I could modify it to fit my Max, with an adj. voltage regulator to bump it up to 14.4V....and FYI it seemed to help performance with my Jacobs ignition even though it was larger, much heavier (gold plated rectifiers and stators, etc.) and certainly created more drag on the crank, thoug the twin isolated yellow tops helped, too...sorry, I digress...thanks again deezo....
Old 11-02-2004 | 06:31 PM
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Do you have the weights of both ? Thanks

And how about a stock spare alternator pully ,do you have one
Old 11-02-2004 | 06:51 PM
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Typically wouldn't a higher output alternator require more power from the motor to drive it, reducing overall whp?
Old 11-02-2004 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Wish-it-was-AWD
Is it an internal or external voltage regulator, adjustable or not, is there an internal or external fan (can't tell from the pics). Do you know what the rectifiers and stators are made of? Amperage output at idle and max amp output at ?rpm.....if you can do this it would be crucial for me and my decision making...oh yeah and did you have to go with a new serpentine belt?...I had a Stinger H/O for my 98 GMC Sierra, ext., non-adjustable voltage reg...set at 12.6V....external fan, and pushed 160 amps at idle 600rpm, 220 at 3K rpm and I had to downsize my serpentine belt or it would slip at times....I wish I could modify it to fit my Max, with an adj. voltage regulator to bump it up to 14.4V....and FYI it seemed to help performance with my Jacobs ignition even though it was larger, much heavier (gold plated rectifiers and stators, etc.) and certainly created more drag on the crank, thoug the twin isolated yellow tops helped, too...sorry, I digress...thanks again deezo....
If you call Art, he will answer all of your questions accurately. I do know that the regulator is external (couple of bolts to remove to replace it if need be). This one also has 2 internal fans. It pushes around 215 amps at around 2500rpm.
Old 11-02-2004 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by krismax
Do you have the weights of both ? Thanks

And how about a stock spare alternator pully ,do you have one
Send me your address. I'll try to get one to you this weekend.
Old 11-02-2004 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kingrukus
Typically wouldn't a higher output alternator require more power from the motor to drive it, reducing overall whp?
Not with the smaller pulley. I've been driving with mine for months now and it drives perfectly.
Old 11-03-2004 | 10:11 PM
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Deezo, can you link were you got the alternator once again. The post you made in the 1st page, the link doesnt work. We get the "file not found" page. Thanks.
Old 11-05-2004 | 09:10 AM
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Can-Am Motors
13102 N Florida Ave
Tampa, FL 33612-3474
(813) 935-4199

Speak with Art.
Old 11-05-2004 | 10:49 AM
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does anyone know what a stock 1993 GXE alternator puts out. I'm about to put in a system with 2 JL 500/1 and I'm worried about killing my alternator. Will this alternator provide enough amps? Can we get a group deal going maybe?
Old 11-05-2004 | 01:28 PM
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110 amps for the stocker. Some may have 125 amps stock.


This alternator has more than enough power to crank a high powered system.
Old 11-05-2004 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo
Can-Am Motors
13102 N Florida Ave
Tampa, FL 33612-3474
(813) 935-4199

Speak with Art.
Thx
Old 11-06-2004 | 07:28 AM
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Hmm, that place is maybe just a 15-20 minute drive from me. Cool, now I know I don't have to wait to get one shipped when I get ready to get one.
Old 11-06-2004 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by deezo
That's correct. I got this one from a site on the internet and thought it was the 110amp alt for the GXE Cali spec. The 110amp was what I ordered.
Where did you get the 125 amp one? Mine's going bad, but I really don't have a need for a 200 amp alternator. Or if yours is still good, I'd buy it
Old 11-06-2004 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Muravchik
Where did you get the 125 amp one? Mine's going bad, but I really don't have a need for a 200 amp alternator. Or if yours is still good, I'd buy it
I have one but it needs to be rebuilt.
Old 11-08-2004 | 06:41 AM
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I just got my new alternator from Can Am last week. I ordered it on a Tues. and got it on Fri. Very fast shipping, plus it's a very nice blue color, I'll have to post pics sometime.



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