I bought my max about 6months ago. It has 87k now on the stock clutch. A few days ago it started to slip in higher gears but now it jus slips bad in every gear except 1st. This is my first car and I also learned manual on it. I dont have the money now for a clutch but im working on it. Im planning on getting an Exedy stage 1 with a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel. If I have to I can always borrow the money off my mom and just pay her back but I prefer to just save enough money from working. How much longer will I be able to drive it, is there going to be a point when the car will just not be drivable anymore? Is there anything I can do to let it last a little longer? Thanks.

 

I think if you're noticing major slipping in high gears and all gears, then it's definitely getting close...

I think mine's somewhat worn, but I don't see the RPMs rise too quickly in higher gears, although I have smelled burned clutch at very high (~125) speeds... but it does seem to slip or at least "not grip" very well taking off in 1st going uphill, so I have cause to believe mine's headed out in the probably-not-too-near future.

 

Replace it.

 

If I continue to drive with the slipping clutch is it going to become undrivable? The longer I can wait the better because I just dont have the money now. I usually park my car in my driveway which is a steep slope, when Im reversing the clutch never fully comes out and it doesnt rev any higher than 2.5k...I dont know if im doing that correctly or not but will that wear the clutch a lot faster?

 

When it goes, it completely goes. Will cost you about $600 to replace including parts.

 

When a clutch is slipping, what are the parts that actually being replace? I know the clutch disk gotta go, what else?

 

Pilot bushing, pressure plate, disc, and most kits include an alignment tool. Do make sure the flywheel is resurfaced or it will not work correctly.

JeEvE: Yes. It will become undrivable. If you dont have the money now, how are you going to have the money if you get stuck somewere and have no choice but to get it done? Get it taken care of asap, there is only so much time left be4 it lets go completly, so baby the hell out of it if you want it to last and dont rev it up past 3K.

 

Thanks for the reply. If the clutch did go completely I would just borrow money off my mom and just pay her back. Ill just be safe and order the clutch and flywheel now. Does the Exedy clutch include pilot bushing, pressure plate and disc?

 

Your clutch is already past dead. if it's slipping in 1st gear, then park the car and stop driving until you get a new clutch. you're only doing more damage to the flywheel at this point by creating heat spots on it by slipping the clutch all the time.


the Clutch kit *should* come with everything you need- pressure plate, disc, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, alignment tool.. If it doesn't, make sure you buy an OEM throwout bearing- the autozone (or other cheapo aftermarket) are crap. you'll be doing the job again in a year if you get a crappy one. Nissan uses NTN brand bearings, so if you can find one at a parts store, then do that.. STAY AWAY from BCA brand though.. they're absolute crap. but again, it should all come in the clutch kit-- I know the ACT kits come with everything needed.

Also be sure to change the tranny fluid if you haven't in the last year or so. 4-5 quarts is usually required, though I'm not sure the exact amount on a VQ tranny. I highly suggest redline products. you'll be very happy with them. shifts like buttah.

 

Its not slipping if 1st yet, it slips in all other gears though. I can still drive okay without the clutch slipping so its not completely dead. I already changed the tranny fluid with Redline and it made it shift so much smoother. When the tranny is dropped for the clutch, does the tranny still hold the gear oil or does it have to be drained?

 

Unless it is drained, it will stay. Get your clutch replaced asap or it will leave you stranded. End of story.

 

Yeah, do not mess with the clutch. You want that sucker replaced right away.

 

you're saying it doesn't leak out when you pull an axle out, drop the tranny, and tilt it back and forth trying to get it out of the engine bay and off the tranny jack?


I also highly recommend changing both axle seals on the tranny and the engine's rear main seal while you've got it all apart. they're all very common places to leak and the extra $20 spent on it will be well worth it when you don't have to do the job again in a year because the oil is leaking.

 

You know what I meant. Ofcourse a "little" is going to leak out once the axles are pulled. Not the whole thing though. That can easisly be added back in. The seals would also be a good idea, I would say the rear main as well but you need to pull te oil pan out to do that on the VQ.

 

I ordered the Exedy Clutch and the Fidanza flywheel, I will also get the seals done. I found out that the Exedy clutch kit does not include the pilot bushing. Where should I get this from...Nissan?

 

Good choice, if nissans price is fair then go 4 it.

 

The pilot bushing is not used. Waste of time to try to replace it. My Exedy came with one but I didn't use it. The rear main seal is located behind the flywheel. If you are doing the Fidanza, that would be an opportune time to replace it.

A heck of a lot of tranny oil comes out when the axles are pulled. I've never heard of anyone NOT draining the tranny completely when doing a clutch.

 

Go ahead and flush the tranny after you do the clutch.

 

I was planning on getting it done at a shop but now im debating on whether or not to do it myself. I dont have any shops around here that I can trust to do a good job. I read up on dropping the tranny and it seems doable for me. This is my first car and I havent done any major work on it, just basic maintaince, rotors and pads, y-pipe and headers on a friend's probe, all which was very easy for me to do. I have basic tools (sockets, torque wrench, breaker bar...) and a Haynes and Nissan Service Manual. Should I just go for it? Will I need airtools to do this?

 

The clutch job is very doable. You should have air tools to make it easy on yourself but it isn't totally required. Many of us tackled the clutch job as our first big car project and it really isn't bad. Unlike the manual instructions, you do not have to drop the crossmember or the Y-pipe--will save you a lot of time (in addition to making it a lot safer). It is a good learning experience to boot. I say go for it!

 

Thanks for the reply, Im going to go ahead and do it. Im planning on replacing clutch, flywheel, pilot bushing (should I replace this?), throwout bearing, rear main seal, axle seals and Redline MT-90 fluid. Anything else Im missing?

 

Wise decision to change it! I tried to push a clutch for another 1,000 miles or so years ago on an old Mazda RX7. I got stranded 300 miles from home on a long weekend. I had to get back home to work, get my sister to pick up the car and bring it part way back, take the bus to get it etc. etc. Trust me you don't want to go there. Prolonging the agony will just cost you in the long run regardless of whether or not the car breaks down.

 

if the pilot bushing is that metal sleeve that is in some kits, you don't need it. It's not really functional on our cars so is not worn.

 

your gonna get stranded

 

Anyone know the part numbers on Jerry Rome Nissan for the axle seals on the tranny? Is that called the DIFFERENTIAL SIDE SEAL? Anyone know what the Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit includes?

 

I can get the part #'s on monday. From what I know its called an axle seal but they have jacked up names of all sorts so just make sure to describe to the guy exactly what it is. Its the seals on the side of the tranny, were the axle goes into.

Should have most everything you need. I installed on not too long ago & the only thing I had to get from the dealership were the axle seals.

 

Personally, I would get axle seals from Napa. The kind Nissan sells now have a metal surround that is hard to drive in flush. The napa part looks more closely identical to the seals that were originally on the car. It is however much easier to install with the tranny off the car so maybe that will make a difference...

 

Thanks for the replies. I sent an email to Jerry Rome Nissan for part numbers but I havent got anything back. HitManSE, if you can find the part numbers that would be great. The tranny will be out so I will prolly go with the Nissan axle seals. Anyone know for sure what the Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit includes? I dont want to wait for it to get here and then wait for a throwout bearing to come if its not included. Is there any special tools that I need to drop the tranny and install clutch and flywheel? A tranny jack is coming and I will pick up a 36mm socket for the axles.

 

Its A LOT easier once the tranny is out


JeEvE: Ill get back to you in 24hrs. If your going to order the stage 1 kit, why dont you make a phone call and find out. If its a "kit" it usually means everything you'll need.

 

Passenger side Axle Seal:
Part no: 38-342-81X01
Price: $6.46

Driver side Axle Seal:
Part no: 38-342-51E00
Price: $6.00

 

Thanks!

 

No Prob, just be sure to run the info back to them one more time just to be on the safe side, but im sure those are correct.

 

I started on the clutch job. I did all the easy stuff so far such taking out intake, sensors, starter and draining tranny fluid. I started on the axles, the axle hub nut was a *****. I finally broke it loose by jacking up the end of the breaker bar. I dont know how much I will be able to do today because its just so hot out. I wanted to know if its necessary to pull out the passenger side axle. I searched and some people said its safer to take it out and other say it saves a lot of time to just leave it in. Should I just take it out?

 

You can do it either way, if you have the time remove it. If you dont, dont

 

I have the time...but is it worth it?

 

Thats up to you to decide. Personally, I work on my (or any car) on a lift so I have room to mess around for the most part. Ive done it both ways & that axle is somewhat anoying to remove, but it does make putting the tranny back in a bit easier if I remember correctly...its been a while

 

Thanks for the reply, Ill just going to take it out. Right now im taking the drivers side out but Im having trouble pulling it out of the tranny. Anyone have any tips? I can get it to come out, I tried prying it with a screwdriver but it doesnt seem like its working.