After trying to install my SAFC my car would not start nor would the safc light up. So to solve this i just unconected the maf wires and unpluged the safc. After doing this my car still would not start! After talking with jay and dixit i found out that it probably had something to do with the power or the ground wires. I then test the power wires and it only read 1.4 volts on both sides of the butt connector. Do any of you know what may be going on.

Thanks in advance
Chris

 

Did you disconnect the battery BEFORE you installed?

Even so, check ALL your fuses.

 

i haven't checked my fuses, but what gets me is that when a turn the key to power my radio and all my lights still work. The only thing is my car will not turnover.

 

Did you disconnect the battery BEFORE you hacked on the ECU?

 

yep sure did, i also did a voltage test on my radio power wire and it read 12.4 volts

 

When the SAFC was installed, the wire from the maf to the ecu was cut so that the current is routed through the SAFC. When you unconnected the maf wires did you splice them back together?

 

yep i connected them back together. But i left the other wires connected.

 

dam chris, i hope this problem gets solved. i hate to see you in this position. Good luck and free bump.

 

Thanks man, I know i am always gettin into some kinda $h!t. I think maybe i should just leave the car alone

 

hey whats a SAFC?

 

Chris,

Long shot, but is your security lamp blinking or solid?

 

Chris, as I stated on the phone last night, you need to rip everything back out, put it back to normal via soldering.

To OTHERS: He failed to mention that he cut all his wires instead of taping the power, ground, tps, rpm and knock. I certainly feel that the butt connectors he used on those wires are the cause of the problem somewhere. Get rid of those connectors and solder it back to normal and see if the car starts, if so, then proceed and re-attach the SAFC wires via SOLDERING them to the ecu wires, not cutting them and using a butt connector again.

Dixit

 

Yes sir

 

Yeah when i had my key in the ignition i think the security lamp came on as solid.

 

Ok I soldered the wires all back together and car still will not crank and i am still only getting 1.4 volts on the power wire which is still not good. Also if i remember correctly my security lamp is lit solid. Do you all think i am looking at blown fuse somewhere or something else?

 

I don't know HOW, but you might have triggered the NVIS.

Try this and see:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=106

 

The first time i started it today it turned over and ran for a second then shut off(this is with safc not hooked up). Could NVIS do something to the voltage that passes through the power wire on the ECU?

 

The FSM doesn't explain HOW they disable your car from starting, so it's possible you cut the wrong wire that the IMMU and ECU communicate with and the IMMU prevents voltage from the ECU when in "lock" mode.

Also, another possibility according to the FSM,

"The security indicator is located on the instrument panel. The indi-cator blinks when the ignition switch is in “OFF” or “ACC” position. Therefore, NVIS (NATS) warns outsiders that the vehicle is
equipped with the anti-theft system.

- When NVIS (NATS) detects trouble, the security indicator lamp lights up while ignition switch is in “ON” position. This lighting up indicates that the anti-theft is not functioning, so prompt service is required."

When in the "ON" position does your lamp stay on or blink?

 

Yep that little ba$tard stays lit when in the on position!(if your refering to the position where radio and all other electronics become powered). In fact i think it even stays lit while i am trying to crank.

Thanks for the help Ice

 

Okay, peform the "unlock" procedure.

If that don't work, I'll give you a few wires to verify ground, power, continuity on.

 

Pretty sure you severed one of the IMMU-to-ECU wires and triggered the NVIS...hopefully.

 

ok i'll have to check in the morning. Could you go ahead and send the diagram of the wires you just reffered to. i will pm you tommorow morning.

Again thanks alot for your hellp

 

Best of luck Chris...

 

Done yet?

+10chars.

 

No it didn't work and sorry about not responding i have been busy with getting a tow truck. Man it sucks seeing your car ridding off on a tow truck. Any ways i want to thank all of you for your help and support. Hopefully the car will be back and kickin soon

 

Yikes~!

Keep us posted.

 

And the verdict is a fried ECU ladies and gents. According to nissan (which i think they are still trying to screw me) is my ECU is fried and needs to be replaced. Luckily i was able to get my hands on one for 150 dollars as opposed to $600 from nissan. Once i get the car back i guess it is back to the drawing board with this whole SAFC thing. Do you all think i should attempt it again or take it somewhere and get it done?

 

Well this time dont cut all the wires and use the butt connectors. Just do it the way i described. Many have done this and have not fried anything.

Dixit

 

Did you KEEP the fried ECU? If so, I want it.

 

Easy cheetah, before collecting maxima parts, why not return some over here as well.

Dixit

 

So do you guys think i should attempt this again myself or just pay someone to do it. Also if someone could give me a step by step of what they did in preping to remove the the ecu harness (ie removing the battery cables) to ensure there is no power going through the wires.

Thanks
Chris