ive been trying to decide in the exedy category between the stage 1-2, im guessing they both come sprung with a choice of pressure plates and type of disc?

 

i just replaced my OEM clutch with EXEDY Stage 1.....the clutch feel is way different....it grabs very quickly....takes alittle to get used to.....as far as performance wise i really dont kno...im still in the BREAK-IN period....i have normal bolt-on mods and the OEM clutch kit was more expensive than the Exedy so i decided to go with an aftermarket racing clutch instead.....bought mine online for 250 plus shipping.....Install was 460 tho....

 

damn thas expensive as hell, local shops go for max of 300 bux including the oem replacement, that they buy.

 

Well like people are saying, there sure are 2 different opinions being voiced here. I quickly realized my stock clutch can't handle a 65 shot, and I need to replace it soon. I need a clutch that can handle up to 400 tq, since I could upgrade to a 100 shot at some point. Does anyone have experience with either Exedy or SPEC stage 2 clutches? I hope the stage 2's can handle that torque...I don't necessarily want to get a stage 3 unless I have to.

Is there really any reason to get an aftermaket flywheel? Are some stronger than others, or built better? Unless more expensive, I think a stock one should be good enough, and easiest to drive.

What about pressure plates? I'm interested in getting a 5th gen PP, since it would have OEM quality, and stronger than the 4th gen PP. What experiences have people had with these?

Thanks

 

i had a SPEC stage 2 for 60k miles and it held no problmes or slippage. my car wasnt modded (except for cone intake) as far as the kevlar being crap i cant say i had that experience. to be honest there were times that i thought it was to grabby. pedal feel was a little on the firm side but hey if my wife could drive it without complaints then it cant be that bad. as far as it handling abuse i have to say it held up. i never granny drove that car, always was ruff on it. in addition my wife was fairly new to driving a manual so inherantly she did a lot of slipping the clutch to get it going from a stop. but the clutch never gave up she could chirp the 1-2 shift. when you order a stage 2 kit make sure they give you the high clamp pressure plate. i have heard problems with the stage 1 kit not holding power.

genuine Exedy performance kits are pretty good.

buyer beware

daikin and exedy are the same company, they sell oem replacement kits and performance kits. if you bought one of the ebay exedy kits for less than $140
you bought the wrong kit. if you go to the exedy website (http://www.daikin-clutch.com/catalogs/index.shtml) and check the part numbers for the real stage 1 kit it is different from the ebay exedy/daikin stage 1 kit. you will find on the website that they are keeping an eye on the companies that are counterfitting their products and are selling them on ebay or other online outlets. so if you buy a genuine exedy the stage 2 is excellent

the thing is if boost or nitrous are not in the plans then i'd say get an 2000 OEM pressure plate and an OEM 4th gen clutch disc. OEM throwout bearing. you will have the same pedal effort as now and the same drivability.
while your at it get a 5th gen tranny so you can avoid the incorrect factory shim jobs that have wreaked havoc on some of the 4th gens.

ACT are a good reputable brand i dont have any experience with them so i really cant comment.

all clutch kits are subject to proper installation and by a competant mechanic and proper break in. (i say call the manufacturer for that as they all differ)

 

Anyone have Clutchmaster clutch on their Max?

 

well, it looks like something with my exedy clutch is broke. its either the throwout bearing, pressure plate, or one of the springs in the disc is broken. it also could be the shift fork but I'm leaning more towards the clutch than anything else.

 

maybe your just rough with your clutchs?

Ive had my spec in for about 800 miles now and i have no compliants so far. It does whats it suspose 2 do. I have minor preformance mods. The clutch feel is almost the same as stock. It grabs much higher though. Time for work...

 

nah. the only time I drive the car hard enough to do any type of damage to the clutch is at the track and my car hasn't seen the track in a couple of months now.

 

what stage did you have? what do you think you're gonna replace it with?

 

I think you might be rough on clutches. You said stay away from spec because it burned up quickly, and now you have burned up and exedy pretty quick.
Or...It may be something else wrong with your tranny if you have had 2 bad clutch experiences.

My spec 2 seems to be holding up great. I have been to the track a few times on it also.

 

Well, the Spec clutch I had had a defective pressure plate or something because even after the break in period all it wanted to do was slip. I could be rolling at 45 mph in 3rd gear and go from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle and it would slip. I had been driving the car pretty normal most of the winter. Haven't been banging gears or anything and with the snow/ice on the roads I took a lot more precaution in driving my car. I dunno. we'll see whats up with it when we pull the tranny this weekend.

 

I hope it is something simple I expect my Exedy to last a very long time. I've had mine in for about 18 months now and it haven't been too easy on it, but it still feels the exact same as the first time I drove it .

 

do u guys know of ne places doing any deals on exedy stage 2 clutch kits and a fidanza flywheel? i posted in another thread regarding this but it is over 5 months old and am not expecting to get an answer.

 

Wheres the best place to buy an exedy stage 1 for the best price? I think I am going to go with that one.

 

I think that when considering a clutch replacement, you need to consider other factors of your performance goals whether it be oem replacement, n/a or boosted. Many people ask w/o being specific as to their application. There are different clutch stages as everyone is well aware of. So in the future, for those who will be asking again, include in your question the following:

1) oem replacement or not
2) n/a or not - indicate your hp/tq goals
3) boosted or not - indicate your hp/tq goals
4) driveability factors - do you race a lot or not, stiffer pedal or not

Just something to assist those who think that they are not getting adequate answers from their questions.

 

what about mixing up a act pressure plate with a stock nissan disc,or the other way around, stock pressure plate with act or spec disc.

I have ben seeing lots of other cars with setups like this and im justwondering if anyone has done it to a max.

 

I had an ACT for my Eclipse gsx. I sold it a few months later so I can't really give too much input...but man was that thing stiff.

 

Yeah, not into stiff pedals.

 

I've used my spec stage one for about 9 months/ 4000 hard miles. I have all the basic bolt on upgrades including a fidanza. I launch hard and make the tires chirp daily and it grabs great. When I first put it in, it would slip a little bit when the engine was cold but after it broke in I had no problems. I'm puting a turbo on soon and I'll let you guys know how long it last (probably not too long).

 

well, im going with an exedy stage 2 clutch kit and a fidanza flywheel to co-exist with my other mods, and a 50 shot for starters. hope to see how it holds up. also what the proper break in period and what should i know about breaking it in? i.e keep revs under 4k for 200 miles?or wha?

 

My Exedy after a couple races on the squeeze.


notice the missing spring

 

To break in the new cutch, lightfoot it for 500 miles (to be safe). I kept it under 3k the whole time.

 

i think that's what happened to Blackbird's Exedy too

 

Found out yesterday that i might need a new clutch to replace my stock one on my 2k1 AE with 57K miles on it. My max has no engine mods, and not really planning on doing any big ones, i.e. turbo or NOS or w/e...all it has is an intake and maybe later on some exhaust work will be done...so i'm looking for a replacement kit to replace my stock clutch...what would u recommend...I've tried reading this thread, but ppl here run their maximas with like turbos and stuff...so i need something to replace my stock and where could i buy those parts also? thanks in advance.

 

Nothing wrong with sticking with the stock clutch.

 

how much would a stock clutch run these days? got any sites where i can order one? thanks.

 

run about $200 www.jerryromenissan.com and other nissan part stores online.

 

thanks..i'll check it out

 

!!! Were you riding on your clutch?? If so, you will probably need a pressure plate too because the diaphram might have some serious gouching where the release bearing contacts with it. I recommend your stock clutch! Us 4th geners are using your generations clutch parts which has proven to improve drivability for us. Stage I or II would just be a waste of money for you since you said you will be just sticking with the usual bolt-on go-fast mods.

 

so i assume i should just go to dealership and replace it there?

 

Only if they'll do the labor for free. If its not covered by some warantee or you can get a great discount on the repair, then take it to a independant shop, or better yet check with a local org member, they could do the install much much faster than any shop, seeing how they like to keep your car for atleast a few days.

 

i had a spec stage 1 and i went through it in a matter of 6 months. it was my first clutch after my 5 speed swap, and the first few months i was still learning to drive a stick. so that did a work out on the clutch. now i use the exedy stage 1. i notice the pedal is alittle bit lighter (i mean alittle bit) then the spec, and it engages lovely.

 

how hard were you driving? I put about 1k miles on my spec 2 clutch and holding well so far

 

Currently I have a Spec Stage 3, its holding well with my 125 shot. I was suprise at the pedal feel which wasn't all that stiffer than stock, at times the clutch can be senstive, if u don't blimp the throttle from a stop there is very little room to work with before some minor clutch chatter (nothing that cant I get use you). It is a grabby clutch, I can slightly chirp 3rd when spraying and no slippage either.
One question I do have is on their website, it shows that a stage 3 being a 4 puck with 6 springs in the center but mine was actually a 6 puck (pictured in the stage 4) but with springs like the stage 3. I wonder if anyone else's looked like that? maybe I got a stage 3.5 HAHA. I dunno but I have no complains.

 

well when i had it i drove it pretty hard during its break in period. but that wasn't all my fault, b/c i was a novice driver, i had absolutely no experience driving standard. i had three nasty stalls my first week of driving. and not to mention how id roast the clutch when i was on a hill. so i figure that was the MAIN reason why my spec clutch died so quickly. but now i'm a more experienced driver and i bet if i had that spec clutch again, i'd say it was the best thing out there.

 

after reading all of this im getting in that if im just doing some minor bolt-ons to stick with stock? Im having my tranny dropped for some warranty work and wondered if anything should be done with the clutch

 

happened to spipedong90's first one


I never had a single problem with mine

 

I got quoated between 350-670$ for just labor for clutch install..good luck

Also clutch breakin is VERY important

 

find another shop.