Installing 300ZX brakes, need tips...
#1
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Installing 300ZX brakes, need tips...
I've got a set of calipers, rotors, brake lines from Matt93SE and pads....anything else I need???
I've heard you have to mill down the radius of the rotors by 2-3mm but haven't found a shop that can do something like that yet. Any tips??
BTW- this is for my brother's 01 Maxima AE...
I've heard you have to mill down the radius of the rotors by 2-3mm but haven't found a shop that can do something like that yet. Any tips??
BTW- this is for my brother's 01 Maxima AE...
#2
You are retarded... What, you don't believe me because I don't "own" a maxima anymore? You also may need to trim the lower control arm a bit if the rotor touches when you crank the wheel all the way left or right. Just simple grinding. BTW take some pics of your wheels, camera phone pics don't work.
#4
Did you get on Matt's last GD or something? If you did I sure hope my stuff will be here Monday.
I'm assuming since you got all this from Matt for 300zx calipers you also have the relocation bracket. If they're 2K4 maxima rotors then there is no need to mill the rotors down any. I think you only have to do that if you get the cobra rotors, but if you have cobra rotors I'm pretty sure you need a special ring to fit inside it so it fits the maxima's hub.
I'm assuming since you got all this from Matt for 300zx calipers you also have the relocation bracket. If they're 2K4 maxima rotors then there is no need to mill the rotors down any. I think you only have to do that if you get the cobra rotors, but if you have cobra rotors I'm pretty sure you need a special ring to fit inside it so it fits the maxima's hub.
#5
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
You are retarded... What, you don't believe me because I don't "own" a maxima anymore? You also may need to trim the lower control arm a bit if the rotor touches when you crank the wheel all the way left or right. Just simple grinding. BTW take some pics of your wheels, camera phone pics don't work.
Hey...you didn't even know if I'd need any hardware to install the pads in the calipers.
I'll take pics of my wheels tomorrow in the sunlight.. When I finished washing the car tonight it was dark. Damn winter and sun going down @ 4pm...
I only got the brake lines from Matt guys...I'm NOT using the 04 maxima rotors. I'm using the 300zx rotors.
#7
Wha?? No grinding needed for Cobra rotors. Why would I design a bracket that would need grinding on the rotor dia?
Originally Posted by WildmanAL
I think you only have to do that if you get the cobra rotors, but if you have cobra rotors I'm pretty sure you need a special ring to fit inside it so it fits the maxima's hub.
#8
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I may be retarded...but at least I'm not gay...
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-raTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[img]
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-raTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[img]
#9
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Wha?? No grinding needed for Cobra rotors. Why would I design a bracket that would need grinding on the rotor dia?
#13
did you get the bracket for the 2004 rotors or the cobra ones?
if you are going with the stock 11" 300zx rotors, yes, they have to be milled.
but i thought that the milling had to be on the inside.
if you are going with the stock 11" 300zx rotors, yes, they have to be milled.
but i thought that the milling had to be on the inside.
#14
#16
if using Z rotors..... they must be machined down 2mm in dia..... or they will rub inside the caliper.... they rear dust sheild will need to be removed from you factory brakes... be very careful and inspect the area where the lower control arm is against the rotor.. they look ok wheels stright .... but turn the wheel and you will find they rub... rotor to control arm.... also you will need a few flat washers to install on the caliper bolts... the Maxima bolts will go thru the Z caliper mounts.... the bolts should not go thru.. if they do .... the thread on the bolts will get F!@$.... a machine shop should be able to mill the rotors for you..... expect to pay $50+
#17
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Originally Posted by z32drifter
if using Z rotors..... they must be machined down 2mm in dia..... or they will rub inside the caliper.... they rear dust sheild will need to be removed from you factory brakes... be very careful and inspect the area where the lower control arm is against the rotor.. they look ok wheels stright .... but turn the wheel and you will find they rub... rotor to control arm.... also you will need a few flat washers to install on the caliper bolts... the Maxima bolts will go thru the Z caliper mounts.... the bolts should not go thru.. if they do .... the thread on the bolts will get F!@$.... a machine shop should be able to mill the rotors for you..... expect to pay $50+
#19
Originally Posted by ni5moserspecv
what if you use the 2k4 i rotors. Will those have to be milled down?
http://www.mattblehm.com/
#20
Originally Posted by ni5moserspecv
what if you use the 2k4 i rotors. Will those have to be milled down?
Not if you buy the Blehmco kit.....otherwise, why even bother using them (because yes, they will have to be milled down even further than the Z32 rotors)?
#21
Originally Posted by WildmanAL
When using 2K4 rotors you'll need matt's brackets....... no milling down is needed since the brackets precisly put the calipers where they need to be.
http://www.mattblehm.com/
http://www.mattblehm.com/
#22
IMHO, using just the rotors/calipers won't do much if anything for reducing the braking distance. But it will improve the fade resistance greatly. If any dist improvement to happen, IMHO, a bracket that moves the torque member further out is required. Either by using my brackets or Matt's kit.
#24
Well having both is the best. IMHO for the street, I'd like to have the dist reduction. In order to really get the brake to fail fade-wise, that would take some illegal driving for a pretty good amount of time.
I didn't really see what the person's preference was. Maybe you're right.
I didn't really see what the person's preference was. Maybe you're right.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Fade resistance is what they are going for. Duder likes to drive fast and then stop repeatedly apparently.
#25
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well having both is the best. IMHO for the street, I'd like to have the dist reduction. In order to really get the brake to fail fade-wise, that would take some illegal driving for a pretty good amount of time.
#26
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my little bother is a crazy bastard behind the wheel...and anything I can do to lessen the chance of him killing himself is good. He's not into track days or anything so the 300zx rotors should be fine.
#27
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well having both is the best. IMHO for the street, I'd like to have the dist reduction. In order to really get the brake to fail fade-wise, that would take some illegal driving for a pretty good amount of time.
I didn't really see what the person's preference was. Maybe you're right.
I didn't really see what the person's preference was. Maybe you're right.
#28
I always wondered why Porsches, BMWs, Corvettes and all the other major high end performance cars use not only thicker rotors and multi-piston calipers but also the largest sized rotors then can stuff under the oem wheels. Why not just use a seriously fat tire and dinky 11" rotors vs 13"/14" rotors?
IMHO, an automaker can get brake feel by using the proper master cylinder diameter. Having to up the rotor size and caliper spec is one hell of an expensive way to get brake feel. Improved brake fade can be done with thicker rotors and larger swept area pads. Again less expensive than using huge rotors and spec'ing out huge 17"/18"/19" wheels and tires.
IMHO, an automaker can get brake feel by using the proper master cylinder diameter. Having to up the rotor size and caliper spec is one hell of an expensive way to get brake feel. Improved brake fade can be done with thicker rotors and larger swept area pads. Again less expensive than using huge rotors and spec'ing out huge 17"/18"/19" wheels and tires.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
BBK's really dont improve distance. That's more of the tires job. BBK's are more for fade reduction and brake feel.
#29
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I always wondered why Porsches, BMWs, Corvettes and all the other major high end performance cars use not only thicker rotors and multi-piston calipers but also the largest sized rotors then can stuff under the oem wheels. Why not just use a seriously fat tire and dinky 11" rotors vs 13"/14" rotors?
IMHO, an automaker can get brake feel by using the proper master cylinder diameter. Having to up the rotor size and caliper spec is one hell of an expensive way to get brake feel. Improved brake fade can be done with thicker rotors and larger swept area pads. Again less expensive than using huge rotors and spec'ing out huge 17"/18"/19" wheels and tires.
IMHO, an automaker can get brake feel by using the proper master cylinder diameter. Having to up the rotor size and caliper spec is one hell of an expensive way to get brake feel. Improved brake fade can be done with thicker rotors and larger swept area pads. Again less expensive than using huge rotors and spec'ing out huge 17"/18"/19" wheels and tires.
#30
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Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
Pads also increase fade resistance/brake feel. IMHO BBK's are a waste on street cars, but on the track work well.
BTW- stop hijacking my thread
#31
I've had the 300Z brakes for 4 years now. It doesn't significantly reduce braking distance. Slightly because of the larger pad area and increased clamping force. But fade resistance is significantly improved. I had mine turned down by a local machine shop.
I would go with Jeff's suggestion and get the Cobra rotors or Matt's kit. I'm in the process of changing mine now. Just need the hubcentric rings and I'll be done.
I would go with Jeff's suggestion and get the Cobra rotors or Matt's kit. I'm in the process of changing mine now. Just need the hubcentric rings and I'll be done.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
you obviously haven't been in a FAST street car with crappy stock brakes.
BTW- stop hijacking my thread
BTW- stop hijacking my thread
#33
Well the the new Volvo SUV uses some huge rotors also. R compounds? No stock car even tries to run those. Suspension geometry? I fail to understand how that helps brakes by any significant amount. You can only apply so much force to the caliper for a given master cylinder size.
If you think you stock brakes are good enough that's fine. Especially if you don't drive you car hard. But you have to remember (especially for the 2000+ maximas that still use the small 11.x" rotors). The maxima is the largest Nissan that still used the small rotors and single piston caliper. Even the Q45 used 2 piston types. Also, your year maximas were plagued with rotor warpage problems. Mostly because the car is too heavy and the rotors too small.
IMHO, if you think bbks are a waste (especially my or Matt's kits which are much more affordable), then I would think any other mods such as Y pipes, ecus, suspension etc.. are a waste of time also. The old saying, "you can't have too much hp or too much brake" is a very true statement.
If you think you stock brakes are good enough that's fine. Especially if you don't drive you car hard. But you have to remember (especially for the 2000+ maximas that still use the small 11.x" rotors). The maxima is the largest Nissan that still used the small rotors and single piston caliper. Even the Q45 used 2 piston types. Also, your year maximas were plagued with rotor warpage problems. Mostly because the car is too heavy and the rotors too small.
IMHO, if you think bbks are a waste (especially my or Matt's kits which are much more affordable), then I would think any other mods such as Y pipes, ecus, suspension etc.. are a waste of time also. The old saying, "you can't have too much hp or too much brake" is a very true statement.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
Those cars listed use larger rotors because they are designed(to an extent) to be tracked. A street tire will not fully take advantage of a BBK; you need R compounds. Also, the suspension geometry of those cars are a lot better than our Maxima's. You get better brake feel by adding calipers with more pistons. A 4 piston caliper dissipates heat more effectively than a 2 piston for example. Of course for this, you need the supporting mod of SS braided lines. Pads also increase fade resistance/brake feel. IMHO BBK's are a waste on street cars, but on the track work well.
#35
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well the the new Volvo SUV uses some huge rotors also. R compounds? No stock car even tries to run those. Suspension geometry? I fail to understand how that helps brakes by any significant amount. You can only apply so much force to the caliper for a given master cylinder size.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
If you think you stock brakes are good enough that's fine. Especially if you don't drive you car hard. But you have to remember (especially for the 2000+ maximas that still use the small 11.x" rotors). The maxima is the largest Nissan that still used the small rotors and single piston caliper. Even the Q45 used 2 piston types. Also, your year maximas were plagued with rotor warpage problems. Mostly because the car is too heavy and the rotors too small.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
IMHO, if you think bbks are a waste (especially my or Matt's kits which are much more affordable), then I would think any other mods such as Y pipes, ecus, suspension etc.. are a waste of time also. The old saying, "you can't have too much hp or too much brake" is a very true statement.
#36
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
An SUV that weigh's over 4200 lbs, I wonder why? R compounds are needed to take full advantage of BBK's, you run these on the track. A proper suspension setup helps braking. One that keeps the tires in full contact with the pavement and prevents dive will help braking distance.
The Maxima weighs 3200 lbs, I feel that the brakes are fine for use on the street. I have never had mine fade on the street, but I have PF pads. On the track, the stocks are very poor. Again, I know that a BBK on a Maxima really requires R compound tires to take full advantage of them. Ask Nealoc187 about his experience at Gingerman....
1) Again, maxima is the heaviest car that Nissan offers the tiny rotor and single piston caliper. If anything, this setup is on the LIMIT of acceptability. IMHO is barely adequate for normal driving much less anything else. I mean, look at it logically. Why do the 2000+ maximas with the small rotors have so many warpage problems? It's not like everyone in the world are hammering their brake systems. If these brakes are so good, why did Nissan increase the rotor size for 2004?
2) Ask Nealoc187 what has in the rear to make up the increased front bias from his usage of large rotors in the front? None correct? Then ask why his tires are locking so easy.
BBK's are a waste if you don't road race/auto-x. You can do other things, such as pads, lines, and tires to increase braking power at a fraction of the price. Tires are the most important aspect of braking IMO and you will see the best gains.
Like I said, you can't have too much hp or too much brake. Car enthusiats have been saying this very true statement ever since cars have been modded.
#37
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
But according to you, big rotors don't do anything. Now they do right? That's the confirmation I needed (from what I alreadyknow)
A few things:
1) Again, maxima is the heaviest car that Nissan offers the tiny rotor and single piston caliper. If anything, this setup is on the LIMIT of acceptability. IMHO is barely adequate for normal driving much less anything else. I mean, look at it logically. Why do the 2000+ maximas with the small rotors have so many warpage problems? It's not like everyone in the world are hammering their brake systems. If these brakes are so good, why did Nissan increase the rotor size for 2004?
2) Ask Nealoc187 what has in the rear to make up the increased front bias from his usage of large rotors in the front? None correct? Then ask why his tires are locking so easy.
Pads & lines won't overcome basic design deficenicies (3,000+ car with small rotors and single piston calipers). I put on 245-45-17 BG comp TAs on my car. Braking did not significantly feel better. I put on 13" cobra rotors/300z calipers in the front and 1" larger rotors in the rear. NOW the braking felt 3x better. Pad and lines won't even come close to touching what BBKs can do for braking.
Like I said, you can't have too much hp or too much brake. Car enthusiats have been saying this very true statement ever since cars have been modded.
A few things:
1) Again, maxima is the heaviest car that Nissan offers the tiny rotor and single piston caliper. If anything, this setup is on the LIMIT of acceptability. IMHO is barely adequate for normal driving much less anything else. I mean, look at it logically. Why do the 2000+ maximas with the small rotors have so many warpage problems? It's not like everyone in the world are hammering their brake systems. If these brakes are so good, why did Nissan increase the rotor size for 2004?
2) Ask Nealoc187 what has in the rear to make up the increased front bias from his usage of large rotors in the front? None correct? Then ask why his tires are locking so easy.
Pads & lines won't overcome basic design deficenicies (3,000+ car with small rotors and single piston calipers). I put on 245-45-17 BG comp TAs on my car. Braking did not significantly feel better. I put on 13" cobra rotors/300z calipers in the front and 1" larger rotors in the rear. NOW the braking felt 3x better. Pad and lines won't even come close to touching what BBKs can do for braking.
Like I said, you can't have too much hp or too much brake. Car enthusiats have been saying this very true statement ever since cars have been modded.
BTW...I agree with the saying you cannot have too much brake or hp, but you forgot another thing too much tire. IMO you really cannot have too much tire. You can have the fanciest Carbon Fiber braking system know to man, but if you have bad tires, its worthless.
#38
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
I never said that BBK's don't do anything. They are more for fade resistance and feel though. The 5th Gens brakes warp because of the pads, not brakes. I switched to PF pads and have not had any issues. Again, I have never made my brakes fade on the street, but I heel and toe downshift for fun. The OEM brakes are fine on the street and could be made better with pads and lines. Brian is taking it one step further by adding new calipers, which will increase feel and disapate heat better. Neal's tires were locking easily because his tires were worn and he had aggressive front pads IIRC. He stated that he would need R compounds to take advantage of the kit he made. This was on the track only though.
If you think bbks are just for fade resistance (and after pretty much repeating myself more than once), then I can only suggest you read up on how braking systems work.
BTW...I agree with the saying you cannot have too much brake or hp, but you forgot another thing too much tire. IMO you really cannot have too much tire. You can have the fanciest Carbon Fiber braking system know to man, but if you have bad tires, its worthless.
#39
Not trying to hijsck thread but how much does a 300ZX brake upgrade usually cost? I mean you need to source calipers, rotors, bracktes (if using Larger rotors), hubcentric rings, new line and fluid correct? Is about $1000 a good estimate if using 13 cobra rotors? Does the 300ZX brakes work with stock ABS?
A while back i was looking at big brake kits. I found this one to be very affordable and a pretty easy bolt on which is what i liked. The 13" kit is $885 and the 12" rotor kit is $775. i knowits only two piston but not a bad deal for the money and i am sure they are better than stock.
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...xima&year=2000
A while back i was looking at big brake kits. I found this one to be very affordable and a pretty easy bolt on which is what i liked. The 13" kit is $885 and the 12" rotor kit is $775. i knowits only two piston but not a bad deal for the money and i am sure they are better than stock.
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...xima&year=2000
#40
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
maxima rotors warp because they are too small and too thin to dissipate the heat in controlled manner.
If you think bbks are just for fade resistance (and after pretty much repeating myself more than once), then I can only suggest you read up on how braking systems work.
You can only put so much tire down. So what's the next step? BBK. But bbks will GREATLY help the braking system of any car regardless of tire size. If you have bad tires, your brakes won't work BBK, pads,lines or whatever. Moot point really.
If you think bbks are just for fade resistance (and after pretty much repeating myself more than once), then I can only suggest you read up on how braking systems work.
You can only put so much tire down. So what's the next step? BBK. But bbks will GREATLY help the braking system of any car regardless of tire size. If you have bad tires, your brakes won't work BBK, pads,lines or whatever. Moot point really.
"A big brake kit will provide increased heat capacity, which means substantially more resistance to brake fade and caliper distortion with multiple stops from high speed. A firmer pedal due to stronger and stiffer components, as well as better modulation characteristics under threshold braking are also typical with a properly balanced brake upgrade. "
You aren't reading correctly, I never said that "BBKs only are for fade resistance". I said they decrease fade and increase feel. This is due to the increase in numeber of pistons. A larger number of pistons means increased feel. Therefore, the 300ZX calipers will be much better than the OEM stockers. If you look at the actually distances gained by BBK's they are minimal. Checkout the Supercar challenge or tests of tuner cars. Often if all things are equal, the braking distance is decreased slightly. The big decrease in distance(over OEM) happens when going at higher speeds. This is because a BBK can better disapate heat.