Removing Stubborn Rotor
#1
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Removing Stubborn Rotor
I'm taking off my brake calipers and rotors so I can paint them. When I removed the front left caliper, the rotor was loose and came right off. When I removed the front right caliper, the rotor wouldn't budge. It appears that it's rusted on. It's probably never been removed and it's been through five salty winters. I've been banging at it with a big rubber mallet, I sprayed inside with tons of PB Blaster, no luck. I'm afraid I'm gonna damage the rotor or wheel bearing or something if I bang any harder. Although, it's pretty hard to do it any harder because of the tight clearance in the wheel well. I can only swing the mallet about a foot. Any ideas?
#4
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Originally Posted by ronin22357
there is a threaded hole on the rotor. put a correctly fitting bolt in there and tighten it down it will force off the rotor.
#6
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Found my answer: 12mm bolt
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....or+thread+bolt
EDIT: OK, for the fronts at least, 12 is too small and so is 14. I don't know exactly what the thread size is but I ended up using my old stock shifter assembly! The thread at the end (which the shift **** screws onto) is perfect. Stuck that in there, cranked with a socket extension through the eye at the other end, and the rotor cracked off.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....or+thread+bolt
EDIT: OK, for the fronts at least, 12 is too small and so is 14. I don't know exactly what the thread size is but I ended up using my old stock shifter assembly! The thread at the end (which the shift **** screws onto) is perfect. Stuck that in there, cranked with a socket extension through the eye at the other end, and the rotor cracked off.
#8
it's an 8mm thread, IIRC.
the other option is to get a big 10lb sledge and bump it on the edges.. don't beat the crap out of it, but the 'shock' of the hammer will break the adhesion on the rust. the rubber mallet spreads the force out over a short period of time and often won't break it loose.
just be careful when doing that not to damage the rotor. usually I'll use a scrap piece of aluminum block between the hammer and rotor- or you can use a lead hammer that is softer than the rotor. it won't damage the disc that way.
the other option is to get a big 10lb sledge and bump it on the edges.. don't beat the crap out of it, but the 'shock' of the hammer will break the adhesion on the rust. the rubber mallet spreads the force out over a short period of time and often won't break it loose.
just be careful when doing that not to damage the rotor. usually I'll use a scrap piece of aluminum block between the hammer and rotor- or you can use a lead hammer that is softer than the rotor. it won't damage the disc that way.
#9
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Originally Posted by VQuick
Found my answer: 12mm bolt
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....or+thread+bolt
EDIT: OK, for the fronts at least, 12 is too small and so is 14. I don't know exactly what the thread size is but I ended up using my old stock shifter assembly! The thread at the end (which the shift **** screws onto) is perfect. Stuck that in there, cranked with a socket extension through the eye at the other end, and the rotor cracked off.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....or+thread+bolt
EDIT: OK, for the fronts at least, 12 is too small and so is 14. I don't know exactly what the thread size is but I ended up using my old stock shifter assembly! The thread at the end (which the shift **** screws onto) is perfect. Stuck that in there, cranked with a socket extension through the eye at the other end, and the rotor cracked off.
#10
1. those bolts are the wrong thread pitch.
2. those bolts are a PITA to find replacements except from the dealer. They're high strength and several $$ each, and often have to be special ordered.. Those are also some of the most important bolts on the entire car. you snap one of those and your caliper comes off- and the only time they're under stress is when you're on the brakes... So it'll only break when you need it most.
Please never let that guy work on your car again.
2. those bolts are a PITA to find replacements except from the dealer. They're high strength and several $$ each, and often have to be special ordered.. Those are also some of the most important bolts on the entire car. you snap one of those and your caliper comes off- and the only time they're under stress is when you're on the brakes... So it'll only break when you need it most.
Please never let that guy work on your car again.
#12
I learned this trick from my father, who came and imparted some old school wisdom when I couldn't get a couple of my rotors off:
Get a propane torch and gently and evenly heat the mating surface of the rotor for a minute or two.
I'm NOT saying to heat it up super hot and glowing like it was a stuck bolt, just warm it up so that it's on the "hot" side. After trying for a very long time to knock loose a couple of my rotors (penetrating oil, tapping with hammers, whacking with rubber mallet, using the bolt hole - it *stripped* , pretty much everything already mentioned), I heated it a little with a torch, and the thing litterally fell off the hub! One other rotor required a little more heating, but it also popped off with the whack of a hammer. I was kicking myself for not asking for help earlier... when I was done I thanked my father profusely.
Get a propane torch and gently and evenly heat the mating surface of the rotor for a minute or two.
I'm NOT saying to heat it up super hot and glowing like it was a stuck bolt, just warm it up so that it's on the "hot" side. After trying for a very long time to knock loose a couple of my rotors (penetrating oil, tapping with hammers, whacking with rubber mallet, using the bolt hole - it *stripped* , pretty much everything already mentioned), I heated it a little with a torch, and the thing litterally fell off the hub! One other rotor required a little more heating, but it also popped off with the whack of a hammer. I was kicking myself for not asking for help earlier... when I was done I thanked my father profusely.
#14
I had the same problem when replacing my rotors. I just took the new rotor (Bremo drilled/slotted) to Home Depot and found the correct bolt that screwed into the new rotor easily. There was few fine? thread bolts there but I was able to find it. When I get home later I might be able to find out the exact size.
#15
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
1. those bolts are the wrong thread pitch.
2. those bolts are a PITA to find replacements except from the dealer. They're high strength and several $$ each, and often have to be special ordered.. Those are also some of the most important bolts on the entire car. you snap one of those and your caliper comes off- and the only time they're under stress is when you're on the brakes... So it'll only break when you need it most.
Please never let that guy work on your car again.
2. those bolts are a PITA to find replacements except from the dealer. They're high strength and several $$ each, and often have to be special ordered.. Those are also some of the most important bolts on the entire car. you snap one of those and your caliper comes off- and the only time they're under stress is when you're on the brakes... So it'll only break when you need it most.
Please never let that guy work on your car again.
the bolts were pretty easy to find, just went to advance auto and they had them in stock. got the entire brake hardware set for $20 i think and now i have extra parts incase something else happens
#17
Originally Posted by upstatemax
he is a good mechanic... he just had a moment of retardation....
the bolts were pretty easy to find, just went to advance auto and they had them in stock. got the entire brake hardware set for $20 i think and now i have extra parts incase something else happens
the bolts were pretty easy to find, just went to advance auto and they had them in stock. got the entire brake hardware set for $20 i think and now i have extra parts incase something else happens
#18
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
it's an 8mm thread, IIRC.
the other option is to get a big 10lb sledge and bump it on the edges.. don't beat the crap out of it, but the 'shock' of the hammer will break the adhesion on the rust. the rubber mallet spreads the force out over a short period of time and often won't break it loose.
just be careful when doing that not to damage the rotor. usually I'll use a scrap piece of aluminum block between the hammer and rotor- or you can use a lead hammer that is softer than the rotor. it won't damage the disc that way.
the other option is to get a big 10lb sledge and bump it on the edges.. don't beat the crap out of it, but the 'shock' of the hammer will break the adhesion on the rust. the rubber mallet spreads the force out over a short period of time and often won't break it loose.
just be careful when doing that not to damage the rotor. usually I'll use a scrap piece of aluminum block between the hammer and rotor- or you can use a lead hammer that is softer than the rotor. it won't damage the disc that way.
I know it's a little late, but I'm pretty sure it's 8x1.25
#19
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I hope you used at least grade 10.2 bolts. The ones that hold the caliper on aren't just little cheapo fine thread metrics..
they are made for the caliper. just go to advance auto, it comes in a little bag and has all the hardware for the brakes right in it. they do not have them in the regular hardware section, they have them in the shelves behind the counter, someone that works there has to get them for ya. and yes they are 10.9, it is stamped right on the top
#20
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I would buy OEM Nissan bolts for the calipers; don't trust an auto parts store for such an important part. Do they ever need replacing, Matt? Do they get brittle with age/heat stress?
8mm x 1.25... aren't most bolts on the Maxima 1.5 thread? I hope I didn't mess up the threads on the rotor holes by using my shifter rod...it went right in with ease, though!
8mm x 1.25... aren't most bolts on the Maxima 1.5 thread? I hope I didn't mess up the threads on the rotor holes by using my shifter rod...it went right in with ease, though!
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