*Urgent Help* Installing new springs
02-21-2005, 09:24 AM
#1
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*Urgent Help* Installing new springs
My bro (GaMax97GLE) and I were changing his H&Rs to Progress last night and ran into some trouble. After changing the front right spring, the wheel has a lot of movement in it. We took the wheel off and noticed that it was not the wheel itself but the whole assembly that was moving. Before we were finished we tried to lower the car just a bit, but the jack lowered too fast and the car it the ground, all this with the wheel on. Not sure if we busted a rod or joint or whatever. Any help or ideas are appreciated! Thanks guys!
This whole thing wobbles:
Top view:
This whole thing wobbles:
Top view:
02-21-2005, 10:39 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
damn.
Not too sure what the problem could be but was it the whole strut assemble that was moving or more the lower control arm area?
Not too sure what the problem could be but was it the whole strut assemble that was moving or more the lower control arm area?
02-21-2005, 10:43 AM
#5
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By your descriptin and pics it is impossible to know what happend. The movement sounds like you might have a bad wheel bearing and that is where the play is comming from. As far as lowering the car back down, if the tire was on secured I don't think you would have done any harm. Why was the caliper removed for a sping install?
02-21-2005, 10:56 AM
#6
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there's a clip inside the boot that connects the axle halfshaft to the rotore and hub assembly, my guess is that it came off. you'll have to open the boot up and try to snap the hub assembly back on with the clip. I'm warnig you its gets messy and greasyt so be aware of that. also make sure you have the boot replace or re-secured on when you are done. This happend to my car when i did the suspension. it was a PAIN IN TEH *** to snap it back into place
02-21-2005, 11:09 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Why was the caliper removed for a sping install?
Originally Posted by Kevin
there's a clip inside the boot that connects the axle halfshaft to the rotore and hub assembly, my guess is that it came off. you'll have to open the boot up and try to snap the hub assembly back on with the clip. I'm warnig you its gets messy and greasyt so be aware of that. also make sure you have the boot replace or re-secured on when you are done.
02-21-2005, 12:02 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Kevin
there's a clip inside the boot that connects the axle halfshaft to the rotore and hub assembly, my guess is that it came off. you'll have to open the boot up and try to snap the hub assembly back on with the clip. I'm warnig you its gets messy and greasyt so be aware of that. also make sure you have the boot replace or re-secured on when you are done. This happend to my car when i did the suspension. it was a PAIN IN TEH *** to snap it back into place
I did not know that.. good info
If that is the case, get a NEW axle. Don't just replace the boot.
BEFORE you tear the boot apart. Put the wheel back on and TQ it. Grab the wheel and see if there is any play in it. And by play, I mean if the wheel wobbles. Not the whole assembly, just the wheel.
If the wheel wobbles it's the wheel bearing and/or the hub. Not hard to change yourself, but you NEED a 5 ton press. You can do it without it, but you can go to a machine shop or nissan and they can press out the old bearing and the new one in for ~$30. If the hub is bad, it's $175 from nissan new.
If you do the above and find this hub/bearing to be bad, when you have the old bearing pressed out, they will tell you if the hub is bad.
I hope it's the axle, much easier to change
02-21-2005, 12:09 PM
#10
I think that is what happen to my car then Ben was installing my Progress/GR-2 combo. The passenger side axle part came out. But Ben just moved it around until it went back into place. Then he put all together and it has been great eversince.
02-22-2005, 06:44 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Bags
I did not know that.. good info
If that is the case, get a NEW axle. Don't just replace the boot.
BEFORE you tear the boot apart. Put the wheel back on and TQ it. Grab the wheel and see if there is any play in it. And by play, I mean if the wheel wobbles. Not the whole assembly, just the wheel.
If the wheel wobbles it's the wheel bearing and/or the hub. Not hard to change yourself, but you NEED a 5 ton press. You can do it without it, but you can go to a machine shop or nissan and they can press out the old bearing and the new one in for ~$30. If the hub is bad, it's $175 from nissan new.
If you do the above and find this hub/bearing to be bad, when you have the old bearing pressed out, they will tell you if the hub is bad.
I hope it's the axle, much easier to change
If that is the case, get a NEW axle. Don't just replace the boot.
BEFORE you tear the boot apart. Put the wheel back on and TQ it. Grab the wheel and see if there is any play in it. And by play, I mean if the wheel wobbles. Not the whole assembly, just the wheel.
If the wheel wobbles it's the wheel bearing and/or the hub. Not hard to change yourself, but you NEED a 5 ton press. You can do it without it, but you can go to a machine shop or nissan and they can press out the old bearing and the new one in for ~$30. If the hub is bad, it's $175 from nissan new.
If you do the above and find this hub/bearing to be bad, when you have the old bearing pressed out, they will tell you if the hub is bad.
I hope it's the axle, much easier to change
Also, what size is the nut in the center of the hub axle right behind the cotter pin? It's huge!
02-22-2005, 07:05 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by GaMax97GLE
I'm able to secure the wheel to the hub. The wheel moves with the hub as one, so it has to be something farther down the line like inside the rubber boot. I'm not sure how to check that.
Also, what size is the nut in the center of the hub axle right behind the cotter pin? It's huge!
Also, what size is the nut in the center of the hub axle right behind the cotter pin? It's huge!
02-22-2005, 07:12 AM
#13
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The CV will have no effect on the suspension, it sees no load and does not hold the wheel or hub stable. The lower control arm, ball joint and strut is what holds the hub & knuckle assembly in place. The tie rod moves it left and right to steer. The CV and axle only make it spin, the CV or constant velocity joint is supposed to flex freely. If the clip falls out and the joint seperates the axle will spin within the boot.
What exactly is wobbling, the hub assembly or the entire knuckle? If only the hub is wobbling, then the bearing is shot. If it's the entire knuckle, then the control arm or ball joint has failled.
What exactly is wobbling, the hub assembly or the entire knuckle? If only the hub is wobbling, then the bearing is shot. If it's the entire knuckle, then the control arm or ball joint has failled.
02-22-2005, 07:43 AM
#14
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
The CV will have no effect on the suspension, it sees no load and does not hold the wheel or hub stable. The lower control arm, ball joint and strut is what holds the hub & knuckle assembly in place. The tie rod moves it left and right to steer. The CV and axle only make it spin, the CV or constant velocity joint is supposed to flex freely. If the clip falls out and the joint seperates the axle will spin within the boot.
What exactly is wobbling, the hub assembly or the entire knuckle? If only the hub is wobbling, then the bearing is shot. If it's the entire knuckle, then the control arm or ball joint has failled.
What exactly is wobbling, the hub assembly or the entire knuckle? If only the hub is wobbling, then the bearing is shot. If it's the entire knuckle, then the control arm or ball joint has failled.
02-22-2005, 09:08 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by GaMax97GLE
Just the hub (where lug bolts attach). The area where the caliper attaches as well as the strut are secure and don't move. It's just the hub that moves 1/8" or so.
02-22-2005, 09:18 AM
#16
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Then it's the bearings. Take the whole knuckle out of the car and have a machine shop press out the old hub & bearings and put new ones in. They couldn't have just fell apart, they must have been shot well before you did the suspension. I'm suprised they weren't making a lot of noise.
I'm going to sound like a newbie but, how do I remove the knuckle? Is there a good how-to somewhere? Do I just take off that big 34mm bolt and go from there? (sorry I can't search) Should I pick up a Hayes?
Actually, that side was making noise. But it was only in my office parking garage and I thought it was the strut or the springs rubbing...could that noise be mistaken for the bearings?
02-22-2005, 10:08 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Then it's the bearings. Take the whole knuckle out of the car and have a machine shop press out the old hub & bearings and put new ones in. They couldn't have just fell apart, they must have been shot well before you did the suspension. I'm suprised they weren't making a lot of noise.
02-22-2005, 10:17 AM
#18
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
By your descriptin and pics it is impossible to know what happend. The movement sounds like you might have a bad wheel bearing and that is where the play is comming from. As far as lowering the car back down, if the tire was on secured I don't think you would have done any harm. Why was the caliper removed for a sping install?
02-22-2005, 10:40 AM
#20
Originally Posted by cardana24
I took my calipers off when I did my springs because I did not want to un hook the brake lines. If you do not take the caliper off then you cannot drop the entire assembly out (this is the case on my second gen, and its four wheels disc so I assum its the same on my fourth gen).
02-22-2005, 10:49 AM
#21
we must be using different spring compressors because I have to take my whole assembly off the car before I can compress the spring...I do not have room to use my compressor while the assembly is on the car.
Originally Posted by GaMax97GLE
The caliper was only taken off so I could remove the rotor to look at the hub. Otherwise, all braking components stay in place when changing springs/struts. This should be an easy swap and only takes 10-15 per strut.
02-22-2005, 11:18 AM
#22
Originally Posted by cardana24
we must be using different spring compressors because I have to take my whole assembly off the car before I can compress the spring...I do not have room to use my compressor while the assembly is on the car.
Can anyone answer where I can find a How-To for removing this knuckle?
02-22-2005, 12:33 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by GaMax97GLE
The spring compressors are used after the strut/spring is removed. If you lift both sides of the vehicle, the strut slides right out even with the rotor/caliper in place.
Can anyone answer where I can find a How-To for removing this knuckle?
Can anyone answer where I can find a How-To for removing this knuckle?
Disconnect the strut at the lower mount
Remove the brake caliper and torque member bracket
Remove the rotor
Disconnect the lower control arm ball joint and the tie rod end ball joint.
If you have ABS, disconnect the sensor.
02-23-2005, 06:12 AM
#24
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Remove the center axle nut
Disconnect the strut at the lower mount
Remove the brake caliper and torque member bracket
Remove the rotor
Disconnect the lower control arm ball joint and the tie rod end ball joint.
If you have ABS, disconnect the sensor.
Disconnect the strut at the lower mount
Remove the brake caliper and torque member bracket
Remove the rotor
Disconnect the lower control arm ball joint and the tie rod end ball joint.
If you have ABS, disconnect the sensor.
02-24-2005, 06:45 AM
#26
**Update**
Well, everything is back together.
Story...
I borrowed a 36mm socket from Max4Speed and the socket spun around the axle nut...didn't even touch the corners so 36mm is wrong...at least on my 2001 Maxima.
So I drove UGAd13's Maxima in the pouring rain to Advanced Auto Parts to pick up a 32mm socket (and 34mm just in case) with 4 minutes to spare before they closed. I got back to test fit and the 32mm was perfect! As I slid the socket over the nut, the socket started to turn to the right...not good. So I kept turning to the right and tightened the nut all the way. Viola, the hub no longer wobbled. I'm not sure how the nut became loose because everything I've read suggested the nut would be very tough to remove.
I'm still getting a noise when I turn hard left so I think the bearing is still damaged. I'm going to take apart the knuckle when I get some time this weekend and get the bearing replaced.
Thanks to everyone who posted. I'll get some pictures posted up of the new drop.
Eric
Story...
I borrowed a 36mm socket from Max4Speed and the socket spun around the axle nut...didn't even touch the corners so 36mm is wrong...at least on my 2001 Maxima.
So I drove UGAd13's Maxima in the pouring rain to Advanced Auto Parts to pick up a 32mm socket (and 34mm just in case) with 4 minutes to spare before they closed. I got back to test fit and the 32mm was perfect! As I slid the socket over the nut, the socket started to turn to the right...not good. So I kept turning to the right and tightened the nut all the way. Viola, the hub no longer wobbled. I'm not sure how the nut became loose because everything I've read suggested the nut would be very tough to remove.
I'm still getting a noise when I turn hard left so I think the bearing is still damaged. I'm going to take apart the knuckle when I get some time this weekend and get the bearing replaced.
Thanks to everyone who posted. I'll get some pictures posted up of the new drop.
Eric
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