Exhaust cutout ideas.
#1
Exhaust cutout ideas.
My set up is...
WSP 2.5" Y Pipe into a 2.5" Carsound Cat to a WSP 2.5" B pipe with a resonator into a 2k-2k2 variable muffler (2" inlet I think). This set up is going to serve VERY nice for daily driving. BUT I want to be able to flip the switch and have wide open exhaust, in case I decide to run my nitrous kit or for when I do actually boost...I want to get the exhaust taken care of so I dont have to mess with it.
My ideas were:
1. Move the 02 closer to the collectors on the y pipe and move the flex back so I can fit a cutout right before the cat.
2. Put the cutout in place of the flexpipe and lose the flex all together.
Do we really need a flex? or is there a smaller flex that can be used? I know of lots of domestic owners that have never heard of a flex section and run straight exhaust all the way back, I am sure their motors flex more than ours with all the tq.
What are your opinions? My goal is to run a street legal quiet set up but still have the option to go wide open.
This is the same for my 3rd and 4th gen. What do you think of putting a cutout before an 02 sensor?
WSP 2.5" Y Pipe into a 2.5" Carsound Cat to a WSP 2.5" B pipe with a resonator into a 2k-2k2 variable muffler (2" inlet I think). This set up is going to serve VERY nice for daily driving. BUT I want to be able to flip the switch and have wide open exhaust, in case I decide to run my nitrous kit or for when I do actually boost...I want to get the exhaust taken care of so I dont have to mess with it.
My ideas were:
1. Move the 02 closer to the collectors on the y pipe and move the flex back so I can fit a cutout right before the cat.
2. Put the cutout in place of the flexpipe and lose the flex all together.
Do we really need a flex? or is there a smaller flex that can be used? I know of lots of domestic owners that have never heard of a flex section and run straight exhaust all the way back, I am sure their motors flex more than ours with all the tq.
What are your opinions? My goal is to run a street legal quiet set up but still have the option to go wide open.
This is the same for my 3rd and 4th gen. What do you think of putting a cutout before an 02 sensor?
#4
Originally Posted by MrGone
the logical thing would be to put it after the O2.
on still using a cat.
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#6
I have some first hand experience with this on my 4th gen. What I was planning on doing was getting a test pipe, welding in the physical cutout piece which you open manually by taking off the little cover at the end of it, then I was going to install an electric cutout on the end of it so I could open and close it from the inside of the car.
However, there isn't enough room on the underbody of the 4th gen for the body of the electric motor piece because you have to have the motor facing up towards the underbody so it doens't get taken off by some bump/debris. There simply wasn't enough room for the motor to fit without hammering up the floor or trimming some of the edges off the motor piece. I've had the cutout on my car for a year now, but have been unable to find someone who can find a way to install the motor, so it's been sitting in my basement. I have the exact same setup as Aaron92SE, but apparently the underbody of the 3rd and 4th gens are too different to accomodate the size of the motor.
When I get some time I may start looking around for someone to custom fit the motor since I would like to see the gains with the nitrous....but so far I haven't had any luck.
If you can think of a way to solve this matter...please let us know
However, there isn't enough room on the underbody of the 4th gen for the body of the electric motor piece because you have to have the motor facing up towards the underbody so it doens't get taken off by some bump/debris. There simply wasn't enough room for the motor to fit without hammering up the floor or trimming some of the edges off the motor piece. I've had the cutout on my car for a year now, but have been unable to find someone who can find a way to install the motor, so it's been sitting in my basement. I have the exact same setup as Aaron92SE, but apparently the underbody of the 3rd and 4th gens are too different to accomodate the size of the motor.
When I get some time I may start looking around for someone to custom fit the motor since I would like to see the gains with the nitrous....but so far I haven't had any luck.
If you can think of a way to solve this matter...please let us know
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#7
I use the Quick Time Electric Cutout www.quicktimeperformance.com .
To get the proper clearance one must cut out the floor board and make room for the unit and then weld in another floor board on top. Of course this raises the floor about 4-5 inches on the back seat floor!
Also you must grind off as much of the lower flange as possible.
It's a lot of work but I have it set up so when the valve opens I get a complete 3" exhaust. This was good for 18 HP on the dyno.
To get the proper clearance one must cut out the floor board and make room for the unit and then weld in another floor board on top. Of course this raises the floor about 4-5 inches on the back seat floor!
Also you must grind off as much of the lower flange as possible.
It's a lot of work but I have it set up so when the valve opens I get a complete 3" exhaust. This was good for 18 HP on the dyno.
#8
Originally Posted by i30krab
I use the Quick Time Electric Cutout www.quicktimeperformance.com .
To get the proper clearance one must cut out the floor board and make room for the unit and then weld in another floor board on top. Of course this raises the floor about 4-5 inches on the back seat floor!
Also you must grind off as much of the lower flange as possible.
It's a lot of work but I have it set up so when the valve opens I get a complete 3" exhaust. This was good for 18 HP on the dyno.
To get the proper clearance one must cut out the floor board and make room for the unit and then weld in another floor board on top. Of course this raises the floor about 4-5 inches on the back seat floor!
Also you must grind off as much of the lower flange as possible.
It's a lot of work but I have it set up so when the valve opens I get a complete 3" exhaust. This was good for 18 HP on the dyno.
You say it was good for 18 HP, what is that over? Stock cat-back? Aftermarket?
#12
i've got this one(still haven't installed it though). This is only good for boost applications though. I am welding it into my test pipe.
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm
dmontzsta, i wouldn't get rid of the flex section as it would make your car vibrate like crazy from your exhaust being to stiff
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm
dmontzsta, i wouldn't get rid of the flex section as it would make your car vibrate like crazy from your exhaust being to stiff
#13
I don't think the ATP boost applied one is very efficient(this has been argued over a few times)...to even be worthwhile it would have to open at <1 psi...if you have it open at anything higher you are just causing a few seconds of more of restriction before you have it open(ie- you set it to open for 10 psi). IMO the best bet is the one that can be opened before boost like the Qtec or others, not during like the ATP
Originally Posted by chris'smax
i've got this one(still haven't installed it though). This is only good for boost applications though. I am welding it into my test pipe.
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm
dmontzsta, i wouldn't get rid of the flex section as it would make your car vibrate like crazy from your exhaust being to stiff
http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm
dmontzsta, i wouldn't get rid of the flex section as it would make your car vibrate like crazy from your exhaust being to stiff
#14
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
I have some first hand experience with this on my 4th gen. What I was planning on doing was getting a test pipe, welding in the physical cutout piece which you open manually by taking off the little cover at the end of it, then I was going to install an electric cutout on the end of it so I could open and close it from the inside of the car.
However, there isn't enough room on the underbody of the 4th gen for the body of the electric motor piece because you have to have the motor facing up towards the underbody so it doens't get taken off by some bump/debris. There simply wasn't enough room for the motor to fit without hammering up the floor or trimming some of the edges off the motor piece. I've had the cutout on my car for a year now, but have been unable to find someone who can find a way to install the motor, so it's been sitting in my basement. I have the exact same setup as Aaron92SE, but apparently the underbody of the 3rd and 4th gens are too different to accomodate the size of the motor.
When I get some time I may start looking around for someone to custom fit the motor since I would like to see the gains with the nitrous....but so far I haven't had any luck.
If you can think of a way to solve this matter...please let us know![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
However, there isn't enough room on the underbody of the 4th gen for the body of the electric motor piece because you have to have the motor facing up towards the underbody so it doens't get taken off by some bump/debris. There simply wasn't enough room for the motor to fit without hammering up the floor or trimming some of the edges off the motor piece. I've had the cutout on my car for a year now, but have been unable to find someone who can find a way to install the motor, so it's been sitting in my basement. I have the exact same setup as Aaron92SE, but apparently the underbody of the 3rd and 4th gens are too different to accomodate the size of the motor.
When I get some time I may start looking around for someone to custom fit the motor since I would like to see the gains with the nitrous....but so far I haven't had any luck.
If you can think of a way to solve this matter...please let us know
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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