in the process of putting in my new clutch i lost all pedal feel, i bleed the cluth for hours and finally got all the air out, i still have no feel. ive even gravity feed fluid into where u bleed from, with and without the bleeder screw in. and i still have no pedal feel, this is annoying me to no end. i seem tohave a little feel way at the bottom of the pedal maybe 1/2 an inch worth. do i have to adjust the pedal more, i thoguht i did alot already, the clutch engages at the top of the pedal now, it used to right off the floor.

is this normal of a new clutch this is a first for me.

also during a moment of anger i smashed my ae engine cover, i dont hink ill be able to fix it, anyone got a new one for sale?

 

Sorry to hear that happened--a guy in my office warned me not to bleed my clutch, to avoid what happened to you. He told me if I want do the turkey baster thing, but don't drop the level to the point where the pedal bottoms out. I will ask him tomorrow am what you should do next, as he is a mechanic. Hopefully someone else will give some pointers in the meantime. Cheer up, I'm sure the problem can be corrected.

 

That's nonsense. You would have to bleed the clutch if you replaced a slave cylinder.

 

You're right as usual. Glad to hear your RS-A's are lasting so long!

I'll see what the guy in the office says, like I said, I'm sure it can be corrected.

 

I'll be the first to admit that my mechanical ability sucks, but intuitively not bleeding the clutch doesn't make any sense. Using my mechanical wisdom,
I did the turkey baster drain and fill twice in about a month recently with no problems. I may do it again soon and leave it alone.

What do my RSAs have to do with the price of rice? You can take a little detour to Vancouver the next time you're in Montreal and I'll show them to you.

 

Your bleeding is complete, there is no air in the system if the clutch is that high up. Your lack of pedal feel might be from the new clutch & pressure plate. Did you use an OEM clutch or an aftermarket?

 

There are 2 bleeder screws on the 5th gens, I dont know if you used both but bleeding a Maxima clutch is quite an adventure. I will PM you the how too.

 

Two bleeder screws on the 4th gen. When I am working in my volvo shop I always use my pressure bleeder.

 

the clitch is a exedy stage 1 witha fidanza flywheel, im leaking a lil fluid so i havent driven it yet, ill get that fixed on monday along with finally having my udp put on,so ill know if im totally screwed then i guess.

 

Factory clutch hydralic line sucks. that's all I can say.

 

you might have to pressurize the clutch system per the fsm to really get ALL the air bubbles out. You'll have to make sure the system is tight and then pump the clutch pedal 15-20 times and then get out and relieve the pressure by bleeding the line (the bubbles should come out in a stream)

I did a 5spd swap once and didn't do this procedure and bled the clutch for one whole day only to have the pedal have no engagement.

 

you really need two people to bleed the maxima's clutch system.. i spent all night trying to bleed that ISH myself and it didn't work.. someone has to be inside the car stepping on the clutch pedal.

i tried depressing the clutch with a metal rod and using the seat to keep it in place, that still didn't work, there's no replacement to the human foot. imo

but if u're leaking then you have other problems, a seal might be broken or a pipe might have been cracked

 

theyres no leaks, ive looked, im getting everyhting else fixed on the car tomo, ill take it out and break in the cltuch in a little, it still engages fine, maybe its just that ive never broke in a cluth b4

 

My clutch engagement point fluctuates all the time. Sometimes it engages an inch or two off the floor and sometimes it engages all the way at the top (esp. if I've been sitting in traffic). I believe I have air in the lines.

Does anyone know what's the best way to access the lower clutch bleeding screw? Both of my clutch bleeding screws are VERY hard to loosen. I already tried WD-40. The upper clutch bleeding screw near the fender was easy (i used an extra long wrench as a breaker bar), but the lower one (in the middle of the engine bay) is hard to get to. I need some way to crack that thing open!

BTW, my clutch engagement point still fluctuates after bleeding from the top screw...

 

i used a ratchet and got my bleeder screws loose, they were kinda tight but not too tight. Taking off the intake is the easier was the access the higher bleeding point, and the other is already at the top already.

 

...I thought the top bleeding point is the one nearest the fender (I read somewhere that most of the trapped air ends up here...but my clutch engagement point still changes after I bled it from here).

The one I'm having trouble with is the one in the middle of the engine bay...I don't think taking off my CAI will help with fully accessing it. I did a 5-speed conversion and my clutch line was from a junkyard car so the screw is closed shut with a bit of rust and some dirt around it...there just isn't enough angle/space to get a breaker bar in there.

 

Acutally yes the one in the lower point your right, and the other is the higher. Usually the higher point will have most of the air in it, and dirty brake fluid, but its still important to bleed in the proper order, lower then higher.


http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/803

 

i did a lil more bleeding using the upper bleeder, air would tend to go up i figured, i have preassure at the bottom half of the pedal, so at least im making progress.

whats the best way of bleeding i mean having someone press the clutch while twisting the bleeder, is there a real procedure or anything, im not much of a clutch guy.

 

Best was have someone in the driver seat, and they press in, you open and close the valve, have them take their foot off and pull the pedal slowly back up to top position, repeat till all air is out, and monitor fluid level continously.

 

Hi everyone,
im new to this forum but i love my Maxima.

i think for anyone who has run into this sort of problem of bleeding the clutch knows that it can be very very hard and is not recommended for everyone unless you have some experience with the wrench.


i personally have a 5th Gen Nissan Maxima with a little over 168,000 miles and i use it every day. i was doing my usual checkup on the car to see if everything was in proper working order. Over time i started to notice that the clutch level kept dropping. Once i dug a little deeper i realized that the rubber clutch line to the Slave Pump on the clutch was leaking and i was slowly loosing pressure in the clutch peddle.


I thought that changing the hose and bleeding the system would make it all better. sadly the master cylinder refused to create pressure anymore. The slave cylinder was o longer returning, so i replaced the Slave Pump. it got a little better but no pressure. This started to become very upsetting. I worked on the car for a week and changed the Master Cylinder until i solved the problem.

First off DO NOT! adjust the clutch travel from the factory setting since doing that will create a suction effect in the pump instead of pushing the fluid foreword to the pump.

Getting the air out of the system when bleeding is no easy task since from the Master Cylinder goes a line to the Bleeder on the Shock tower and another line goes under the ABS Pump into a coil for heat dissipation(Most of the air gets trapped here and is the most difficult to get the air out of.








I ended fabricating my own clutch line to recive the full power of the pump and bypass all of the un-needed clutch line that nissan developed.

i hope this helped...

i also have a new OEM Nissan Clutch line to the slave and the one right before it. email me at blogbuddy@me.com if anyone is intrested.

 

I have a 97, tried bleeding and lost what little clutch play I had, Am in an underground so I need some clutch to atleast get it out of the garage if i cant fix it myself. I keep checking the reservoir level, pumping the pedal and doing a quick open and close on the strut tower bleeder and cant get any clutch play. Any suggestions??

 

it really helps if you have 2 people, one person in the car and another outside bleeding. also when the person has the pedal all the way down make sure that they hold it there. pump about 8 times then slowly release the bleed valve. the key is to release in little amounts to get the pressure to build back up not to let all of the fluid out.

 

i own a 5th gen max and i love the car. i just dropped a lot of money replacing the clutch system (clutch, slave and master cylinder) , about a week ago i started loosing pressure again in my clutch and its now getting stuck again can anyone help me figure this out it seems like i have air in the line some where i only have about the button 2" of pressure and now i have to pull the clutch pedal back I'm so frustrated!

 

I have a 5th gen and i had the same problem as you did. I posted some information above with pictures. I just decided to bypass the clutch coil thats below the brake booster. I think that device is just a trap for air and definitely a place where leaks could begin. One would never find the source since the coil is so long.

I just say make your own hose. Im pretty sure there are places that sell those.

 

I just replaced my master and slave cylinders and i too had the same problem. I matched the fork length on my old master with the length on my new master without realizing that the old master had no retaining nut on it so i installed my master and also may another novice mistake(mind you this was my FIRST clutch fix) and forgot to bench bleed it. i took it out and bench bled it and re installed it nothing changed i'd say i put almost 2 full bottles of DOT 3 in through my lines.

I decided to lengthen the travel time and now my clutch pedal no longer sticks at 50% depression and i have only about an inch or so of freeplay. this weekend i'm going to adjust it a little more see if i cant hit spec on it...im also looking to do a top end delete, we will see ill post pics if all works out

 

Hi I'm am going to be replacing my slave cylinder and don't know how to bleed clutch I'm very mechanical as none of my cars have seen tools other then mine any help would be appreciated

 

im not the best guy on this, cheapest route for me was to bypass the clutch/brake block and run a line directly to the slave. there is, however, a bleeder mechanism on the driver side inner wheel well just in front of the shock tower strut that should help you.

 

I bought a stainless steel braided line but then when I took off their box to put it in I realized I needed the hose with the block on it

 

Because there's a metal line coming from the master to that little block then the rubber line goes to the slave so you could run a line all the way up there but it be hard finding a line that screws that size thread on one side and a banjo on the other

 

I ran a new stainless braided line from the Master cylinder all the way to the slave. Ripped out that nightmare rat's nest of tubing in there and bled it in less than five minutes.