Udp Pros/cons????
#1
I am seriously thinking of getting the UDP from unorthodox racing... I know the positves will be more HP/TQ gains but this is my daily driver,family vacation,taking my two sons to the doctor on occasion car...will my A/C not work up to par...or get Cold" enough are there any negatives for me getting it in my situation? I want the extra HP but I cannot sacrifice my family not being comfortable driving long hours...I need more hp/tq ...any comments and suggestions are appreciated...thank you ....William---in need of "Family" safe HP.....or do I just get thet y-pipe....and free flow cat....give me a run down on good HP.....performance...t/q mods..I need to be able for my Max to pull better when we are all piled in...wife,two sons me...luggage strollers...more luggage...etc...etc...
#2
I don't have one, but.....
as far as I know, unless you have more than a MAJOR electronic or stereo set-up you'll be fine, here is the UR UDP FAQ page it should answer your quetsions--->
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq.html#pulleys
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq.html#pulleys
#3
You will get more out of the Y and CAT... But IMHO the UDP is worth it... It will take a little longer for the AC to get COLD but not very much... Other than that I love my UDP remember it does not create HP but frees it up... Now that I think about it all of the mods other than the SC, NOS, & Turbo only free it up....
Oh and as for lights no problems... Also no added vibration or noise...
Oh and as for lights no problems... Also no added vibration or noise...
#4
hmmm
It says on the fact page that for every pound off the UPD from stock = 2.7 hp and the max's UPD is almost 6lbs. lighter, sounds like some good horsepower freed up. Remember most of the power comes from weight reduction NOT underdriving.
#8
quote from..........
the unorthodox site
"Ultra Street Lightened Underdrive Crank Pulleys
Unorthodox Racing Ultra Street lightened
underdrive pulleys are CNC-machined from
lightweight 6061-T6 aluminum billet.
Premium 6061-T6 aluminum billet ensures
the consistency of the material's strength
and balance. Tolerances are held to within
.001", and numerous machining steps are
used to ensure the lightest possible design.
In addition to fit, finish is just as important
and each piece is representative of this.
Power Gains
Unorthodox Racing pulleys can provide gains of 5 to 12 HP and 4 to 8 ft.-lbs. on normally aspirated engines and 8 to 16 HP and 8 to 18 ft.-lbs. on forced
induction engines. These are average gains. Gains as high as 37 HP and 45 ft.-lbs. have been realized on modified forced induction engines (see third dyno). These gains are obtained in two ways. First, and most important, is
the weight loss. An average of 2.7 HP is gained from every pound lost off the crank shaft. 85% of our gains are from weight loss. The rest of the gains are from underdriving, which accounts for about 15% of the total gains. We do not push underdriving for two main reasons. Our main reason is to keep charging systems, air conditioning, power steering, and
water pumps moving fast enough for every day driving. Second, not much horsepower is gained from extreme underdriving. All of our underdriving is
done with the crank pulley, not the accessory pulleys. This is done so maximum weight loss can be achieved at the crank where most of the horsepower gains are found.
The Unorthodox Advantage
Our Ultra Street pulleys cover a vast array of applications. This is a major advantage since you now have a single source for all your lightened underdrive pulley needs. Ultra Street pulleys are available in black, clear, red,
and blue anodizing. Please note that on some models red and blue anodizing is a special order and will sometimes require additional time to ship your order."
sounds good to me but is it worth $235.00?
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/ultras.html
"Ultra Street Lightened Underdrive Crank Pulleys
Unorthodox Racing Ultra Street lightened
underdrive pulleys are CNC-machined from
lightweight 6061-T6 aluminum billet.
Premium 6061-T6 aluminum billet ensures
the consistency of the material's strength
and balance. Tolerances are held to within
.001", and numerous machining steps are
used to ensure the lightest possible design.
In addition to fit, finish is just as important
and each piece is representative of this.
Power Gains
Unorthodox Racing pulleys can provide gains of 5 to 12 HP and 4 to 8 ft.-lbs. on normally aspirated engines and 8 to 16 HP and 8 to 18 ft.-lbs. on forced
induction engines. These are average gains. Gains as high as 37 HP and 45 ft.-lbs. have been realized on modified forced induction engines (see third dyno). These gains are obtained in two ways. First, and most important, is
the weight loss. An average of 2.7 HP is gained from every pound lost off the crank shaft. 85% of our gains are from weight loss. The rest of the gains are from underdriving, which accounts for about 15% of the total gains. We do not push underdriving for two main reasons. Our main reason is to keep charging systems, air conditioning, power steering, and
water pumps moving fast enough for every day driving. Second, not much horsepower is gained from extreme underdriving. All of our underdriving is
done with the crank pulley, not the accessory pulleys. This is done so maximum weight loss can be achieved at the crank where most of the horsepower gains are found.
The Unorthodox Advantage
Our Ultra Street pulleys cover a vast array of applications. This is a major advantage since you now have a single source for all your lightened underdrive pulley needs. Ultra Street pulleys are available in black, clear, red,
and blue anodizing. Please note that on some models red and blue anodizing is a special order and will sometimes require additional time to ship your order."
sounds good to me but is it worth $235.00?
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/ultras.html
#12
ya
Originally posted by buss95max
anybody got dyno proof of udp on a automatic maxima...before and after.....
anybody got dyno proof of udp on a automatic maxima...before and after.....
#14
my opinion
I have the UPD and I wish I had the Gtech to get some kind of dyno. The horsepower gains are not much, but the car sure revs faster. Engine braking also is much faster, so in my opinion, it's what I think a lightened flywheel would feel like at a cheaper price. I'm running 500 Watts RMS with two amps and there is not problems with the UPD. I've yet to install my y-pipe, b-pipe, and 5th gen muffler (possibly the GForce ECU) but once all that is in I think I'm done modding. I set out to build an efficient, classy looking, and speed-driven car. I'm moving on to accessorise my soon to be kayak.
#15
Re: my opinion
Originally posted by Kevin Wong
I have the UPD and I wish I had the Gtech to get some kind of dyno. The horsepower gains are not much, but the car sure revs faster. Engine braking also is much faster, so in my opinion, it's what I think a lightened flywheel would feel like at a cheaper price. I'm running 500 Watts RMS with two amps and there is not problems with the UPD. I've yet to install my y-pipe, b-pipe, and 5th gen muffler (possibly the GForce ECU) but once all that is in I think I'm done modding. I set out to build an efficient, classy looking, and speed-driven car. I'm moving on to accessorise my soon to be kayak.
I have the UPD and I wish I had the Gtech to get some kind of dyno. The horsepower gains are not much, but the car sure revs faster. Engine braking also is much faster, so in my opinion, it's what I think a lightened flywheel would feel like at a cheaper price. I'm running 500 Watts RMS with two amps and there is not problems with the UPD. I've yet to install my y-pipe, b-pipe, and 5th gen muffler (possibly the GForce ECU) but once all that is in I think I'm done modding. I set out to build an efficient, classy looking, and speed-driven car. I'm moving on to accessorise my soon to be kayak.
so it helps out the low end, i really need low end, mine is pothetic and will only get worse will cat-back.
#16
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Engine braking
Originally posted by Kevin Wong
Engine braking also is much faster, so in my opinion, it's what I think a lightened flywheel would feel like at a cheaper price.
Engine braking also is much faster, so in my opinion, it's what I think a lightened flywheel would feel like at a cheaper price.
#17
Whats the big concern about....
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
whats the deal on that?
![got me](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ne_nau.gif)
#18
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Re: Whats the big concern about....
Originally posted by DA-MAX
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
whats the deal on that?
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
![got me](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ne_nau.gif)
#19
Re: Whats the big concern about....
Originally posted by DA-MAX
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
whats the deal on that?
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
![got me](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ne_nau.gif)
#20
If torque/hp and comfor is SO important to you, you should get K&N drop ins. They add 4hp. They are quiet also. UDP will not cause problems at all. At least it was designed for street cars.....
Y pipe and free flow cat will hugely sacrifice comfort.
If you really want good performance with the comfort. I highly recommend you to get Synthetic engine oil, synthetic transmission oil, and synthetic differential oil. This will make your car smoother and increase performance in certain degrees.......
Y pipe and free flow cat will hugely sacrifice comfort.
If you really want good performance with the comfort. I highly recommend you to get Synthetic engine oil, synthetic transmission oil, and synthetic differential oil. This will make your car smoother and increase performance in certain degrees.......
#21
Originally posted by LoveSick
Y pipe and free flow cat will hugely sacrifice comfort.
Y pipe and free flow cat will hugely sacrifice comfort.
![naughty](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
#22
Re: Whats the big concern about....
Originally posted by DA-MAX
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
whats the deal on that?
UDPs causing the engine to mess up?? I've heard since the UR UDPs don't have harmonic balancers there is a chance that things can go wrong.....
![got me](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ne_nau.gif)
I use to think the crank pulley on the VQ was a damper because I misread my Chiltons manual and didn't notice I was reading info about the VE/VG motors. The VQ is completely balanced and sports some very fancy race-breed internals (ie balanced). Believe me, I've researched this a lot and have asked many folks about this pulley because I had always been hesitant about adding a UDP.
Dave
#23
Today I installed my UDP. Let's just say if you don't have shop manual and the proper tools, this job should not be attempted.
Install:
Breaking the crank pulley bolt was a bit of a pain, but I was able to do it with a breaker bar and arm force (sucker's been on there for over 5 1/2 years!!!). 140 ft/lbs of torque is pretty significant. Taking of the main belt (AC, alternator, idler) was easy, but the power steering belt is a "beeatch". You need to undo a lock nut, adjustment bolt, and the power steering pulley housing bolt. The space in which to work is EXTREMELY limited and being a decent sized guy (6' 2" 175lbs), the spaces were really tight for my hands. Once I got the belt off, everything went on fairly easily. I actually used the longer "alternate" sized belt (.8" longer) and the fit was extremely tight. I don't know how anyone could get the standard shorter power steering belt on.
Weight
The stock pulley weighs about 5lbs and the UDP weighs ~1.5lbs.
Performance (ie "butt-dyno")
The engine feels even smoother, very strange. Absolutely no vibration nor noises. I didn't feel much difference in steering weight nor engine braking. Throttle response is improved noticably (not dramatically). Idle to 4500 rpms in 1st and 2nd gear acceleration clearly feels stronger. After 4500 rpms or in 3rd, it's hard to truely gauge any true gain (ie it might be there, it might not). Tip-in acceleration response is improved. I laid into the throttle a few times from a 1st gear roll and was actually able to spin the tires which is something I haven't been able to do since adding my lightweight 16s. 2nd gear starts are much easier to come by with hardly any unnecessary clutch slipping or heavy rpms (I like this fact).
Overall
I like this mod and I hope it helps me get more consistent off the line and lower my 60 foots a little. For a total of $200 (belts, new crank seal, UDP), I think this is a decent mod and should be considered after the basics are done. This mod feels actually like what adding the B-pipe felt like, added low and mid-range power. My B-pipe netted me consistently .1 lower ets and added over 1mph to my trap speeds. If you don't have exactly the right tools (patience, shop manual, breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 14mm wrench, full mm long socket set, rachet, torque wrench, jackstands) this should not be attempted because the end result could be an expenisve repair.
Goodluck.
Dave
Install:
Breaking the crank pulley bolt was a bit of a pain, but I was able to do it with a breaker bar and arm force (sucker's been on there for over 5 1/2 years!!!). 140 ft/lbs of torque is pretty significant. Taking of the main belt (AC, alternator, idler) was easy, but the power steering belt is a "beeatch". You need to undo a lock nut, adjustment bolt, and the power steering pulley housing bolt. The space in which to work is EXTREMELY limited and being a decent sized guy (6' 2" 175lbs), the spaces were really tight for my hands. Once I got the belt off, everything went on fairly easily. I actually used the longer "alternate" sized belt (.8" longer) and the fit was extremely tight. I don't know how anyone could get the standard shorter power steering belt on.
Weight
The stock pulley weighs about 5lbs and the UDP weighs ~1.5lbs.
Performance (ie "butt-dyno")
The engine feels even smoother, very strange. Absolutely no vibration nor noises. I didn't feel much difference in steering weight nor engine braking. Throttle response is improved noticably (not dramatically). Idle to 4500 rpms in 1st and 2nd gear acceleration clearly feels stronger. After 4500 rpms or in 3rd, it's hard to truely gauge any true gain (ie it might be there, it might not). Tip-in acceleration response is improved. I laid into the throttle a few times from a 1st gear roll and was actually able to spin the tires which is something I haven't been able to do since adding my lightweight 16s. 2nd gear starts are much easier to come by with hardly any unnecessary clutch slipping or heavy rpms (I like this fact).
Overall
I like this mod and I hope it helps me get more consistent off the line and lower my 60 foots a little. For a total of $200 (belts, new crank seal, UDP), I think this is a decent mod and should be considered after the basics are done. This mod feels actually like what adding the B-pipe felt like, added low and mid-range power. My B-pipe netted me consistently .1 lower ets and added over 1mph to my trap speeds. If you don't have exactly the right tools (patience, shop manual, breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 14mm wrench, full mm long socket set, rachet, torque wrench, jackstands) this should not be attempted because the end result could be an expenisve repair.
Goodluck.
Dave
#24
so it is worth....it.....
I think I will get one...but I not "that" mechanically inclined(tools,know how)I will let my dealer put it on.....
so it is settled...getting an udp can help in low end power and free up some HP....
GRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave where did you get yours?
$$$$$$
so it is settled...getting an udp can help in low end power and free up some HP....
GRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave where did you get yours?
$$$$$$
#25
Re: so it is worth....it.....
Originally posted by metallic97gxe
I think I will get one...but I not "that" mechanically inclined(tools,know how)I will let my dealer put it on.....
so it is settled...getting an udp can help in low end power and free up some HP....
GRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave where did you get yours?
$$$$$$
I think I will get one...but I not "that" mechanically inclined(tools,know how)I will let my dealer put it on.....
so it is settled...getting an udp can help in low end power and free up some HP....
GRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave where did you get yours?
$$$$$$
im sure an auto wouldnt get the same results.(if any)
#26
Re: Re: so it is worth....it.....
Originally posted by buss95max
dave B is a 5spd...5spds always get the best outta mods.
im sure an auto wouldnt get the same results.(if any)
dave B is a 5spd...5spds always get the best outta mods.
im sure an auto wouldnt get the same results.(if any)
I have any AUTO so ALL AUTO owners WILL NOT GET ANY GOOD results from getting an UDP...only 5SPEEED OWNERS?
I'M CONFUSED....I know there is an advantage of 5SPEED OWNERS OVER AUTO...WHERE IS DON????? He can help.....
#27
The MegaMax WebSite...
#30
I understand when you say "family hp"
When I installed my UDP on my auto I didn't feel any noticeable hp gain from the butt. The A/C was affected a little while driving in stop and go city traffic, but unaffected cruising on hwy. My car windows aren't tinted so maybe this has a little to do with my A/C characteristics. I also did a before and after charging system check and no difference there. Until you go "force" all other mods will only free up hp and it's all different from 5spd to auto. The numbers that they show on their website are probably from mild to heavy moded N/A and force cars.
#31
William-
Get the y-pipe first and then get a B-pipe if you already don't have one and then get the UDP. The gains from the Y-pipe and B-pipe are much more substainl than the UDP.
A 5 speed will find a slightly bigger gain from the UDP because the drivetrain is a bit more efficent.
I don't think any Nissan dealer will install the UDP for you simply because it isn't factory equipment. You could go to a performance shop and have it installed, but you'll probably spend $150 on the install. Spending $350+ for everything (I've heard some that have paid $400+) doesn't sound like a particularily cost effective mod. I think I'd get the Y-pipe first.
Dave
Get the y-pipe first and then get a B-pipe if you already don't have one and then get the UDP. The gains from the Y-pipe and B-pipe are much more substainl than the UDP.
A 5 speed will find a slightly bigger gain from the UDP because the drivetrain is a bit more efficent.
I don't think any Nissan dealer will install the UDP for you simply because it isn't factory equipment. You could go to a performance shop and have it installed, but you'll probably spend $150 on the install. Spending $350+ for everything (I've heard some that have paid $400+) doesn't sound like a particularily cost effective mod. I think I'd get the Y-pipe first.
Dave
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Andrew91SE
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11-26-2000 03:05 AM