What are the gains to be expected from getting your intake Extrude Honed?

Also what is the price of this and where can it be done?

 

Unless you get head work done as well as some other engine mods, it's not worth it. I asked my Stilen salesman about it and he told me alone you dont get any gains. But hey, for $600 you can at least say you have one!!!!

 

Ok well I will take that as a forget about it....

Thanx
I am just puting the feelers out...

 

what is head work?

 

here's a cut/paste of a post I did on twinturbo.net ( I did three posts):

<B>Part One</B>
"port/polishing smooths out the imperfections around the valves.. smoother bends will allow for better flow. Look at how running water smooths
out rocks in a stream - what allows for smoother flow? A rounded rock or a jagged-edge rock? Of course the rounded rock will allow for
smoother flow. The jagged-edge rock will make the water flow over turbulently (is that a word?)

I can get into 3 angle and 5 angle valve jobs into more detail later on"

<B>Part Two</B>
"since no one else has jumped in.. here's more info:

3-angle valve job - like the name implies, there are 3 cuts on the valve. The first one is usually done at 60 to 70 degrees (sometimes referred to
the throat cut). This sharp angle allows for a transition over to the 45-degree seat cut, which is the second one. The reason it's called the seat cut
is because this is the portion of the valve that seats against the combustion chamber. To maximize flow, the seat cut is as much as the tolerances
allow for proper seating. The last part of the 3-angle valve job is called the top cut, which will be around 20 to 30-degrees. A 5-angle valve job
adds two more cuts on top of the 3-angle job (one more cut on the entrance and one more cut on the exit.. end result - smoother flow)

Remember, when a cut is made on the valve, an equal cut must be made on the combustion chamber. If it's not matched, the valve will not seat
properly, resulting in valve damage or leakage past the valves, both of which are NOT good!!

Another thing some tuners do is shaving down the stem itself, directly under the valve head. My shaving it down a few millimeters, less of the
port is blocked, thus, more space for new air/burnt exhaust gas to enter/exit"

<B>Part Three</B>
"If it's done correctly, you won't have problems. If not, well.. you can always kick your friends *** for screwing up LOL

The one thing to worry about is having it ported too much, which is where problems will arise. If you've taken familiar physics classes, you know
that a larger port can flow more, but if you go too big, the air velocity decreases (similar to exhaust piping). Lower velocity also means less
intertia and less potential energy (not want you want out of a porting job!!). SO basically, you're not increasing your volumetric efficiency if you
go too large. By doing this, low end will suck, throttle response will be bad, you may have a lumpy idle (but you'd have a narrow top end power
range)

$200 seems way too cheap. Port/polishing is a labor intensive job and takes countless hours to get done RIGHT"