Okay, the very last thing I did was to add Dynamat Hoodliner to the engine hood. I got 2 sheets of Hoodliner at a pretty good price on eBay. It was "new" (but also old) judging by the light stickiness of the Hoodliner's adhesive, but it stayed on just fine. Used the old hoodliner as guide for cutting the new. After I installed the Hoodliner, I could hear the best improvement in engine noise with the car at idle in the garage. Otherwise it was tough to hear much of a change as I drove the car on the street.

That's all the pic's I got guys!

 

Between your Max and your sons Escape you did a hell of a job. I've read this thread and Metal Maxima thread a few times, over and over. From reading the threads I understand the difference between mass loading and barrier loading deadening material. Also the different types of deadening materials (pads, foams, liquids) and of course the many brands on the market. With all that info, I have a general idea on which way I'll be going with my deadening project. But I do have one question.

I'm in the process of re-painting my car. During this process I choose to remove all my trims, moldings and weather stripping so not to have any paint lines. In order to remove some of my door pieces I had to remove the window and regulators. With the window and regulators out I started thinking, what would be the best way to deaden the inner door skin, behind the window and regulators. I'm assuming a mass loading deadening material would work best in that location. My plan of action would be to remove all "latch mechanism thingamajigies" and strip the door to a bare shell in order to get an unobstructed view of the inner door shell. Of course I'll be doing the door panels and doors like everyone else, I'm just stuck on what to use for the inner door skins.

So if you had to do the inner door shell, which product and brand would you recommend?

 

By the "inner door skin" I presume you mean the very outside door skin...the one toward the street, not the one toward the inside of the car.

If that is the case, I'd put on just a damp mat, or a liquid (because it might be easier to apply). All you are doing with that area of the door is taking the vibration out of some sheet metal. I'd glue a mass loading material on the door panel if it will fit. That is because I think there are too many other sources of sound to get inot the car between a door skin and the panel that I'd put the barrier material on the car's body part closest to the interior.

My $.02