I just noticed a faint noise coming from the rear of my car, and noticed that there is a small divot all the way around the drivers side rear rotor, which is about a month old. After installing new rotors and pads last month, the e-brake was out of adjustment. So this weekend I tightened the bolt on the e-brake handle, and got the e-brake back into adjustment.
However, today I noticed a faint grinding noise coming from the back of the car and low speeds, and it corresponded to the speed I was going. I noticed the drivers side rotor was about twice as hot as the passenger side one after only a few minutes of driving. This leads me to believe the drivers side caliper is seized or stuck. Is there any definitive way to tell if the caliper is indeed seized?

 

It sounds like the only other thing that it could be is maybe the e-brake cable is too tight. You do need a little slack in the cable.

 

If it's just the drivers side it could be seized you need to take it off back the piston off and try regreasing it. Personally I will always replace the pads on the front myself but i never touch the rear I take it to a mechanic and let them mess with it

 

Rear rotors really shouldn't get hot at all. Jack up the back. Spin the tires. Do they spin equaly fast and stop about the same? Look down behind the inner pad on both sides. Does one piston look more extended?

 

I noticed in another thread that you hit a deer. It could have come back and bent up your brake dust shield which could be rubbing on your rotor.

But yeah, if its getting hot then that prolly isnt the case.

 

Most of the time your nose will alert you.

 

I had 2 calipers seize on my last car... the excessive heat coming from the brakes is definitely an indicator. Another thing you may notice is that you won't roll back if you are stopped on a slight incline (with your foot off the brake, of course).

If you take your caliper apart (as if you are changing the pads) you might be able to plainly see that the rubber seal around the caliper is trashed. That is the case with mine... it is torn. After that, water and dirt can get in there, corrode the parts, and then it will seize up.

If the caliper is not seized, it is possible that the problem is with the e-brake cable. Check here for some info on what to look for http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303

 

I have this problem....I redid my rear brakes because I noticed the right side wore down and the rotor was hot. But now (now = 5 mos. later) I get a groaning sound at low speed all the time. Passengers have asked me, "What's that??!" When hearing that sound, if I pull the ebrake gently it goes away.

My car is up to 131k now, and it was that and the fact that the front is shaking the worst it ever has (speeding up from 75-80 used to help, but now it's worse) prompted me to order a new BMW 335i. Haven't got it yet as it takes 8 wks. That's why I'm not here a lot anymore, I've accepted my fate, to drive a twin turbo coupe!

 

Our rear calipers suck. I have replaced them on my 96, and I am about to replace them on my 98 also.

 

SALT

Seriously that is some serious rust/corrosion.

 

^^ yup.
I am planning on replacing it this weekend.

 

Ouch, new pads AND rotors and one got ruined, that sucks. Yeah that rubber seal is bad, Mine were all perfect in spite of the rust....but thats just what happens, metal corrodes.

 

the right side will often feel alot hotter after a good amount of driving because the exhaust pipe on 4th/5th gens runs just inside of the right rear wheel....

 

i replaced both calipers in the rear and they are notorios for siezing. if u take the caliper off and press the brake, it should move in, if not its most likely the caliper. could also be the hand break...check if the handel is just a bit free/loose the first click ot two...if so then its actually compressed when the handel is down. check the e brake arm on the caliper itself, but is most likely the piston.

 

Pull the caliper off and try turning the piston back in. If it doesn't want to turn then you have a seized piston. Otherwise, it might be your parking brake adjustment.

 

I had my passenger rear caliper seize up on me a couple of years ago. I went out and bought new calipers, for both sides of course, proceeded to install them, when at the very last step I notice that it wasn't the caliper that was stuck. It ended up being the e-brake cord somehow rubbing against the exhaust, causing the protective rubber to melt away and rusting and seizing up the metal inside of the cord. So I ended up replacing that item as well and made sure that it would never again come in contact with the exhaust.

 

No write up on repair? I'm sure mine are frozen.

 

here is a great write up (for bimmer tho) but its pretty much the same. or u can just get new calipers, rebuilt ones go for about $90-100.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/ca...akeCaliper.htm

 

Also check the lines to the caliper. If they are spongy or kinked, it can cause the caliper to be sluggish when you release pressure on the petal. Couldn't hurt to flush the brake lines as well.

S

 

Are there any How To's, to replace a rear caliper?

 

yep, both my rear calipers have seized at one time

 

i had my rear calipers seize twice. started out with a light grinding noise, followed by a bad smell, extra brake dust, and a hot, smoking wheel.