Pics of paint dash and heatshield (intake)
06-30-2001, 04:16 PM
#4
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Here's the heatshield. It wraps aroudn the back of the battery and situates itself between the strut tower and strut housing. It's not bolted, it just slides right in and stays. It's made out of sheet metal and painted black. I believe it does shield the intake from radient heat. My intake it's scorching after driving in traffic on a hot day.
Dave
Dave
06-30-2001, 04:30 PM
#5
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Posts: n/a
Hey if you can come up with a heat shield for jwt/stillen pop chargers for 5th gen I think you could make some sales!
Fast and easy fit at a low cost and I'm in for sure!
Fast and easy fit at a low cost and I'm in for sure!
Originally posted by Dave B
Here's the heatshield. It wraps aroudn the back of the battery and situates itself between the strut tower and strut housing. It's not bolted, it just slides right in and stays. It's made out of sheet metal and painted black. I believe it does shield the intake from radient heat. My intake it's scorching after driving in traffic on a hot day.
Dave
Here's the heatshield. It wraps aroudn the back of the battery and situates itself between the strut tower and strut housing. It's not bolted, it just slides right in and stays. It's made out of sheet metal and painted black. I believe it does shield the intake from radient heat. My intake it's scorching after driving in traffic on a hot day.
Dave
06-30-2001, 06:13 PM
#9
Originally posted by Dave B
Here's the heatshield. It wraps aroudn the back of the battery and situates itself between the strut tower and strut housing. It's not bolted, it just slides right in and stays. It's made out of sheet metal and painted black. I believe it does shield the intake from radient heat. My intake it's scorching after driving in traffic on a hot day.
Dave
Here's the heatshield. It wraps aroudn the back of the battery and situates itself between the strut tower and strut housing. It's not bolted, it just slides right in and stays. It's made out of sheet metal and painted black. I believe it does shield the intake from radient heat. My intake it's scorching after driving in traffic on a hot day.
Dave
I remember you said that gains were nearly identical.
I get with all the girls at my work, right Cheston? Ahahahaha!
06-30-2001, 10:38 PM
#15
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
My dash is black and I painted part of it metallic aluminum.
I reinstalled my HKS intake because I'm doing some experimenting. This go around, I'm running the HKS intake wiht no resonator between the MAF and throttle body. I'm also running the stock lower airbox which still uses the Poorman's intake piping. I've also installed another piece of 2.5" shopvac hose that feeds air to the lower airbox (fender side) via from below the headlight. If you've seen the front pics of my car, you'll know that I've removed the stock driving lights in favor of some round Hellas (pic attached). Behind the Hellas sit two intake tubes from the Poorman's setup. My dyno peak hp and tq values between the HKS and Poorman's setup were nearly identical (within 1fwhp and 2 fwtq, in favor of the HKS). The HKS makes about 3 fwhp and 3 fwtq more than the Poorman's from 4400-5600. Shortly, I'll be dynoing this setup along with my UDP. I also reinstalled my HKS because I missed the growl. Once you remove the resonator, the growl becomes deeper and much more uniform.
The heatshield doesn't reduce the volume of air around the filter because the shield doesn't form a seal. it's more for protection against the radient heat. There are also two large sources that surround the filter to keep it feed and cool. Along with removing the hood liner, I've reduced my intake temps by 15-20 degrees on a 85 degree day. The only time my filter becomes heat soaked is when I sit at a long light on a hot day. Once I get back up to a 40mph+ cruise, the temps drop back down quickly.
Dave
I reinstalled my HKS intake because I'm doing some experimenting. This go around, I'm running the HKS intake wiht no resonator between the MAF and throttle body. I'm also running the stock lower airbox which still uses the Poorman's intake piping. I've also installed another piece of 2.5" shopvac hose that feeds air to the lower airbox (fender side) via from below the headlight. If you've seen the front pics of my car, you'll know that I've removed the stock driving lights in favor of some round Hellas (pic attached). Behind the Hellas sit two intake tubes from the Poorman's setup. My dyno peak hp and tq values between the HKS and Poorman's setup were nearly identical (within 1fwhp and 2 fwtq, in favor of the HKS). The HKS makes about 3 fwhp and 3 fwtq more than the Poorman's from 4400-5600. Shortly, I'll be dynoing this setup along with my UDP. I also reinstalled my HKS because I missed the growl. Once you remove the resonator, the growl becomes deeper and much more uniform.
The heatshield doesn't reduce the volume of air around the filter because the shield doesn't form a seal. it's more for protection against the radient heat. There are also two large sources that surround the filter to keep it feed and cool. Along with removing the hood liner, I've reduced my intake temps by 15-20 degrees on a 85 degree day. The only time my filter becomes heat soaked is when I sit at a long light on a hot day. Once I get back up to a 40mph+ cruise, the temps drop back down quickly.
Dave
07-01-2001, 09:53 AM
#18
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Posts: n/a
Dave, do you have any better pictures of your intake shield? That pic is really small and hard to see the design...
Originally posted by Dave B
I painted my dash today (just two parts). I've never taken the dash apart so it was a bit of a pain and a lot of WTFs. Here's a pic. I'm trying to go after that BMW subtle look.
Dave
I painted my dash today (just two parts). I've never taken the dash apart so it was a bit of a pain and a lot of WTFs. Here's a pic. I'm trying to go after that BMW subtle look.
Dave
07-02-2001, 05:45 AM
#22
See, I told you guys, your dash can look cool if you paint it right. It looks smoother than a stick-on kit becuase there are no ugly edges to see.
Anyway, looks cool dave. There are pics of mine on my homepage.
Easy to do: clean, sand, prime, sand, paint, paint, paint, sand, paint, clearcoat, clearcoat, clearcoat.
Anyway, looks cool dave. There are pics of mine on my homepage.
Easy to do: clean, sand, prime, sand, paint, paint, paint, sand, paint, clearcoat, clearcoat, clearcoat.
07-02-2001, 08:40 AM
#23
Originally posted by mzmtg
See, I told you guys, your dash can look cool if you paint it right. It looks smoother than a stick-on kit becuase there are no ugly edges to see.
Anyway, looks cool dave. There are pics of mine on my homepage.
Easy to do: clean, sand, prime, sand, paint, paint, paint, sand, paint, clearcoat, clearcoat, clearcoat.
See, I told you guys, your dash can look cool if you paint it right. It looks smoother than a stick-on kit becuase there are no ugly edges to see.
Anyway, looks cool dave. There are pics of mine on my homepage.
Easy to do: clean, sand, prime, sand, paint, paint, paint, sand, paint, clearcoat, clearcoat, clearcoat.
thanks
07-02-2001, 09:06 AM
#24
Originally posted by kalbundy
that looks nice. now my only wonder is can i do it over my wood grain and how long did it take u and what kind of paint did u use??
thanks
that looks nice. now my only wonder is can i do it over my wood grain and how long did it take u and what kind of paint did u use??
thanks
07-02-2001, 10:49 AM
#25
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by CKNY
dave - do you plan on doing the hvac controls above the radio? i'd be really interested in seeing how it comes out seeing as how there's a lot of writing and little spaces and stuff...
dave - do you plan on doing the hvac controls above the radio? i'd be really interested in seeing how it comes out seeing as how there's a lot of writing and little spaces and stuff...
Kalbundy-
Just take your time sanding and painting. It's easy to do. Just don't go overboard. Honestly, I'd leave the woodgrain trim.
Dave
07-02-2001, 12:00 PM
#26
Originally posted by Dave B
It would also be pretty hard to paint the panel that holds the clock, defrost, and hazard buttons. You'd have to pull apart the hole piece so you could paint it right.
Dave
It would also be pretty hard to paint the panel that holds the clock, defrost, and hazard buttons. You'd have to pull apart the hole piece so you could paint it right.
Dave
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