This site http://www.converter.cc/dyno_shop.htm has alot a valuable info on aftermarket TC's. It would seem that a well matched TC would give a very nice increase in power. Now if only there was a way to get a 4.0 or 4.11 final gear for the automagic's.

 

Thanks for the info. I just hope people will keep the gains in perspective after seeing how their test car was a Camaro with a base reading of over 500 fwtq, not a Maxima. As for the gains in accel. times, the weakest link are definitely the tires. For an auto, more power combined with higher stall speeds (launching at higher RPMs) = no traction.

 

Doesn't Don from Texas have a tq. converter?

 

yes, and it's on my list of things.

 

http://www.mobiletek.net/protorque.html

Don's website.

 

I haven't had a 5-speed jump me from the start yet!! Prior to the T.C.er the 5-speeds would usually get a jump on me until I reeled them in but now I can get an awesome start. One of the best mods I've done so far next to the S.C.er.

 

You actually lose a little hp and tq with a high stall converter, but you gain a ton of torque multiplication. The reason you lose power is because of the larger amounts of converter slippage. You'd be best served getting a high quality converter because they lose a minimal amount of power compared to the cheaper units.


Dave

 

I lessened my 0-60 time by over half a second (G-Tech verified) with the hi-stall TC...BTW, I am N/A...I'm satsified with it...DMan, I bet traction is hard to get with your S/C and the TC...how do you launch? and what tires do you have? It's hard enough trying to launch N/A.

 

hmmm, TQ converter or 5-spd. 5-SPD!

 

 

we need to comunicate on this project. i'm serious, your serious. i would like to get a LSD tranny though. i'm not gonna do mine till like march or april though. in the winter i'm not gonna be using much nos and i'd rather brush up on dry roads. i can drive a stick but not AWESOME. I'm gonna start saving and look for someone to do the work then we'll see what happends. i'm drawing the install line right here. i'm not doing this.

 

I think the best Maxima setup would be an auto with a good stall, beefed up internals, and SC. You'd have V8 power, a brutal launch, less drivetrain stress, and smooth cruising. With the SC and stall converter, the difference between the 5 speed and auto would be zilch except maybe over 120mph.


Dave

 

This is a good subject to bring up.Since I am really leaning towards getting a TC next.Will I be disappointed with a high stall converter?

 

Beefed up internals? Dave, please give me some examples. Thanks. 300ZXTT injectors? Colder spark plugs? Right? What else?

 

Wait a second, now a TC is customized for every vehicle? How do I know which is best for my Maxima?

 

www.mobiletek.net , Don's site. Look for HSTC.

 

I have the 235/45R17 Nitto 555 Extremes on my stock 17s and they grip REALLY well but I do still get some tire spin but not too excessive. The primary reason that I don't get outrageous tire spin is that the S.C.er doesn't really kick in hard till about 3500 rpms and at that point I'm already moving. I have spun the tires a couple of times when flooring it around 20 mph as I go to pass a car. (That's when I'm reminded that there is some serious hp under my hood.) :smile: When I launch I usually torque/brake it to 2 grand and then flash the T.C.er. I do get some tire spin don't get me wrong but the Nittos grab pretty quickly and then I'm off. WAY better than the crappy stock Potenza that came with the car.

 

That's my setup and I love it!!

 

Actually, I was talking about the tranny. Sorry, I should have been more clear. The VQ itself is plenty strong for standard pulley boost. If anything, upgrading your fuel pump seems to be the only wise and useful mod for the SC. New injectors, I've been told, and worthless and the stock VQ units are safe to over 320hp.

By a beefed up tranny, I mean heavier duty clutches, bands, upgraded valve body, stronger converter, and a tranny cooler. Nothing dramatic, but it would require a rebuild. The killer of auto trannys is heat and a higher stall converter produces a ton of heat. The quicker shifts of the valve body and the cooling of the tranny cooler will keep the tranny happy.

Autos are great because they don't shock the drivetrain on launch like a 5 speed does. With the auto, you can take out the slack in the drivetrain just before launch. When you've got a good bit of torque (215-230fwtq SC auto), good hp (~250fwhp), high torque multiplication of a higher stall converter, and a relatively light sedan, the car is going to move very quickly, especially up top. The auto does cost more money to upgrade, but I believe it will last much longer behind boost. This seems to be the case for almost all boosted cars.


Dave

 

The general "gearhead" rule of thumb for choosing the stall speed of a converter is to get it to stall 500rpms below peak torque. With most VQs, that means about 3300-3500 rpms. However, driving around town with a 3300 stall would be VERY sluggish on part throttle acceleration. For a street driven NA VQ, I'd say 2800 would be the tops and if you're going to get a SC then get a 2600 stall. Stall is based on torque. Since the SC makes more torque and at a slightly lower rpm, you'll want to adjust stall speed accordingly. I believe the try stall speed of the stock converter is 2250rpms.


Dave

 

So what TC would be right for me.I have a VE and plan on going with all the bolt ons I can and eventually a 80 shot of NOS.I am planning on getting a TC for my next mod so I am glad this subject was brought up since my VE is different from the VQ.I know nothing about TC's and that is being honest.All I know is the VE auto is a killer up top and lacks on the low end.What stall TC would be good for me I dont want to lose top end.

 

Based on my own limited testing, the basic Protorque TC is all that a bolt on or S/C maxima needs. Now that I think back on it, the car did feel slightly "looser or sluggish" compared to stock under 1600rpm. However with 50% throttle I could get a 2000-2100rpm launch, flash stalling at 1500rpm gave me a 3000rpm launch. If there was a way to get shorter gearing the TC/VB combo would kick some serious ***. According to protorque the stall speed increases about 400-800rpm depending on the engine's torque characterists (sp?). I'm guessing that my 87 maxima only had like 160-170fwtq tops after I did the headwork+cams.

 

Stall speed on my NA car is around 2700 more or less. Everyday driving hasn't been affected much if at all...gas mileage has also stayed the same so that's good =). DaveB - why would you want a 2600 stall for a SC? I think you'd be able to launch with more power with a higher stall. Anyway, for everyone's FYI, you can't put in a TC that says 3000 rpm stall and expect to get 3000 stall...again, it depends on your torque. Good example - I know DMan and I have the same model Protorque TC...his stall is around 3000 and mine is around 2700.

 

I'd want a slightly lower stall speed for the SC because the car is making more torque than NA down in the lower rpms. There's no real point to push the converter to hard if it's not needed. Having too high a stall with a SC will get you boosting too much on launch and could possibly put you at the point were the SC is building full boost within 10 feet of coming off the line. With drag tires, this would be great, but on street tires, it could become an uncontrolled mess. You could always get mroe performance out of the Maxima by going with a high stall, but drivability would suck. A friend on mine had a LS1 F-Body with a 3200rpm stall. It launched like a bat-out-of-hell, but it struggled to go up a driveway at part throttle.


Dave

 

Thanks for the tip Dave. I already have the tranny cooler, I might want to upgrade it to a higher model, I got the 403. I should get the VB this weekend. I think that will be good for now. A high stall converter is highly possible later on, I think I will get a high stall converter around over 2800. Btw, I will go with the 3.33 pulley, not the stock pulley.

 

Im slow at this but wtf does flash torqueing mean? I usually just power brake but what is this method. Thanks.

BTW, what would you suggest on a NOSed auto putting down about 200fwhp & about 215lbs? What stall if any? I already ahve vb mod & tranny cooler.

 

Flash stalling is using the brakes, hitting the accelerator for a split second to start spooling the engine, then letting go of the brake. Same effect as brake torquing without the excess heat. Ih, and you are not slow.