NOS info for the masses
#122
Re: Re: MSD Ignition RPM switch
Originally posted by mtrai760
DOM: You can install your kit and add the MSD window switch later. It needs to be sent to MSD to be modified to work with a distributorless ignition, cost about $35 and you can usually have it back within a week.
Shadow and BlingedMax: Why are you guys argueing over the jet sizes? Who cares? It comes with a 50 shot, a 60 shot, and a 70 shot, or a .032, .034, .036, and a .042 for the fuel jetting. Okay!
DOM: You can install your kit and add the MSD window switch later. It needs to be sent to MSD to be modified to work with a distributorless ignition, cost about $35 and you can usually have it back within a week.
Shadow and BlingedMax: Why are you guys argueing over the jet sizes? Who cares? It comes with a 50 shot, a 60 shot, and a 70 shot, or a .032, .034, .036, and a .042 for the fuel jetting. Okay!
does anyone know why then and the kit is advertised from 40-60 in the manual Im not trying to argue i just want to know what the right answer is
What exactly is the window switch and does anyone use a crane iginition
#123
Ok, I'm working on installing the kit right now and it's going pretty well. I just had a couple of questions though. First one is how did you guys connect the fuel pressure safety switch to the fuel system? I got a tee and everything, but I wasn't sure how to connect the fitting on the safety switch to the rest of the system. I went to a shop and they sold me an adapter and nipple so I could hook it up, but I wanted to make sure that would work.
Next question is, why don't the parts thread together all the way? I clamped the solenoids in a vise, etc. and hooked up all the stuff, but the parts don't seem to thread in all the way. I'm afraid to overtighten, but I don't want it to be loose either. The parts seem to be tight, but there are threads exposed like it's not screwed together all the way. Is this normal? Or should I just keep tightening?
Finally, how do I adjust the fuel pressure safety switch?
Just so you guys know, I'm not unfamiliar w/ working on cars, just not too familiar w/ NOS kits. I had some friends help me who have installed the kits before, but they weren't too sure either w/ the maxima as they installed them on older camaros and mustangs.
Next question is, why don't the parts thread together all the way? I clamped the solenoids in a vise, etc. and hooked up all the stuff, but the parts don't seem to thread in all the way. I'm afraid to overtighten, but I don't want it to be loose either. The parts seem to be tight, but there are threads exposed like it's not screwed together all the way. Is this normal? Or should I just keep tightening?
Finally, how do I adjust the fuel pressure safety switch?
Just so you guys know, I'm not unfamiliar w/ working on cars, just not too familiar w/ NOS kits. I had some friends help me who have installed the kits before, but they weren't too sure either w/ the maxima as they installed them on older camaros and mustangs.
#124
Originally posted by Shadow
Ok, I'm working on installing the kit right now and it's going pretty well. I just had a couple of questions though. First one is how did you guys connect the fuel pressure safety switch to the fuel system? I got a tee and everything, but I wasn't sure how to connect the fitting on the safety switch to the rest of the system. I went to a shop and they sold me an adapter and nipple so I could hook it up, but I wanted to make sure that would work.
Next question is, why don't the parts thread together all the way? I clamped the solenoids in a vise, etc. and hooked up all the stuff, but the parts don't seem to thread in all the way. I'm afraid to overtighten, but I don't want it to be loose either. The parts seem to be tight, but there are threads exposed like it's not screwed together all the way. Is this normal? Or should I just keep tightening?
Finally, how do I adjust the fuel pressure safety switch?
Just so you guys know, I'm not unfamiliar w/ working on cars, just not too familiar w/ NOS kits. I had some friends help me who have installed the kits before, but they weren't too sure either w/ the maxima as they installed them on older camaros and mustangs.
Ok, I'm working on installing the kit right now and it's going pretty well. I just had a couple of questions though. First one is how did you guys connect the fuel pressure safety switch to the fuel system? I got a tee and everything, but I wasn't sure how to connect the fitting on the safety switch to the rest of the system. I went to a shop and they sold me an adapter and nipple so I could hook it up, but I wanted to make sure that would work.
Next question is, why don't the parts thread together all the way? I clamped the solenoids in a vise, etc. and hooked up all the stuff, but the parts don't seem to thread in all the way. I'm afraid to overtighten, but I don't want it to be loose either. The parts seem to be tight, but there are threads exposed like it's not screwed together all the way. Is this normal? Or should I just keep tightening?
Finally, how do I adjust the fuel pressure safety switch?
Just so you guys know, I'm not unfamiliar w/ working on cars, just not too familiar w/ NOS kits. I had some friends help me who have installed the kits before, but they weren't too sure either w/ the maxima as they installed them on older camaros and mustangs.
the parts are meant to be a tight fit. they are compression fittings and they have to hold 900+psi so that have to be tight. use teflon paste on these fittings. i screwed mine in until i couldn't turn anymore(and there was still thread left).
about the fuel pressure safety switch(FPSS) - i wrote an article on maximadriver.com in the tech section under NOS explained. it's the third topic down in the article. here's the link:
http://www.seas.ucla.edu/~cheston/nosxplained.html
#125
Thanks. I just wanted to make sure that I had tightened enough. I tightened to the point where I couldn't turn anymore, and I did use teflon paste. I guess I'll go get a new tee tomorrow.
Originally posted by sx7r
you have to cut the fuel line after the fuel filter and before the fuel rail. you get a T fitting that has 2 barbed ends for the fuel line and one 1/8 NPT female fitting for the FPSS.
the parts are meant to be a tight fit. they are compression fittings and they have to hold 900+psi so that have to be tight. use teflon paste on these fittings. i screwed mine in until i couldn't turn anymore(and there was still thread left).
about the fuel pressure safety switch(FPSS) - i wrote an article on maximadriver.com in the tech section under NOS explained. it's the third topic down in the article. here's the link:
http://www.seas.ucla.edu/~cheston/nosxplained.html
you have to cut the fuel line after the fuel filter and before the fuel rail. you get a T fitting that has 2 barbed ends for the fuel line and one 1/8 NPT female fitting for the FPSS.
the parts are meant to be a tight fit. they are compression fittings and they have to hold 900+psi so that have to be tight. use teflon paste on these fittings. i screwed mine in until i couldn't turn anymore(and there was still thread left).
about the fuel pressure safety switch(FPSS) - i wrote an article on maximadriver.com in the tech section under NOS explained. it's the third topic down in the article. here's the link:
http://www.seas.ucla.edu/~cheston/nosxplained.html
#127
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
Posts: 7,081
Re: Re: Re: MSD Ignition RPM switch
Originally posted by blingedmax
My kit from nopi only came with one jet
does anyone know why then and the kit is advertised from 40-60 in the manual Im not trying to argue i just want to know what the right answer is
What exactly is the window switch and does anyone use a crane iginition
My kit from nopi only came with one jet
does anyone know why then and the kit is advertised from 40-60 in the manual Im not trying to argue i just want to know what the right answer is
What exactly is the window switch and does anyone use a crane iginition
#128
Re: Re: Re: Re: MSD Ignition RPM switch
I got a 5122 kit, and it ended up coming w/ all 3 jets. This is strange.
Originally posted by mtrai760
Not sure why your kit came with only one jet, sounds like some were missing. When my kit came it had no instructions, so things can be missing. You also may have gotten a different kit number than some of us, which would mean you got a different jet, ie 5123 instead of 5124, basically the same kit, but they come with different jets. The right answer is to look at your jets and see what size they are, and then go from there. A window switch is a product made by MSD and NOS that allows you to specify what RPM you want the NOS to Spray at, and what RPM you want it to shut off at, so that you don't spray to early, or spray into your rev limiter. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=9019 As for the Crane ignition, I don't think so. The Maxima has a distributorless ignition, which means that there are 6 coils. The only ignition I have found which I think might work (haven't been able to get a good answer) is the MSD HID system. Ive heard of it being setup on a 300z with distributorless ignition, the only downside being they only sell it in a 4 or 2 application, meaning you have to run 2 ignition boxes to cover all the cylinders. Good luck, hope this answered your questions.
Not sure why your kit came with only one jet, sounds like some were missing. When my kit came it had no instructions, so things can be missing. You also may have gotten a different kit number than some of us, which would mean you got a different jet, ie 5123 instead of 5124, basically the same kit, but they come with different jets. The right answer is to look at your jets and see what size they are, and then go from there. A window switch is a product made by MSD and NOS that allows you to specify what RPM you want the NOS to Spray at, and what RPM you want it to shut off at, so that you don't spray to early, or spray into your rev limiter. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=9019 As for the Crane ignition, I don't think so. The Maxima has a distributorless ignition, which means that there are 6 coils. The only ignition I have found which I think might work (haven't been able to get a good answer) is the MSD HID system. Ive heard of it being setup on a 300z with distributorless ignition, the only downside being they only sell it in a 4 or 2 application, meaning you have to run 2 ignition boxes to cover all the cylinders. Good luck, hope this answered your questions.
#129
fuel pressure gauges????
i have not read the new posts but answer me this nos heads... fuel pressure gauges which are more accurate - mech. or eletrical? sprayin70 says eletrical sux and to stay mech. i want to put a eletrical gauge fuel gauge in the cockpit but mech. supposed to be better? any inputs.
#130
Re: fuel pressure gauges????
Originally posted by nismo2020
i have not read the new posts but answer me this nos heads... fuel pressure gauges which are more accurate - mech. or eletrical? sprayin70 says eletrical sux and to stay mech. i want to put a eletrical gauge fuel gauge in the cockpit but mech. supposed to be better? any inputs.
i have not read the new posts but answer me this nos heads... fuel pressure gauges which are more accurate - mech. or eletrical? sprayin70 says eletrical sux and to stay mech. i want to put a eletrical gauge fuel gauge in the cockpit but mech. supposed to be better? any inputs.
#131
Re: Re: fuel pressure gauges????
Originally posted by dmbmaxima88
do not use a mech. in the cockpit that is dangerous. the reason mech are better per say, is because you can get a full sweep one for 40 bucks. the half sweep elect. ones are 80 and the fulls are 180. if you really want to get into the jet changing and higher shots get the full. i have the half and run 100shot and it works good but i would like the full just because it's easier to read.
do not use a mech. in the cockpit that is dangerous. the reason mech are better per say, is because you can get a full sweep one for 40 bucks. the half sweep elect. ones are 80 and the fulls are 180. if you really want to get into the jet changing and higher shots get the full. i have the half and run 100shot and it works good but i would like the full just because it's easier to read.
#132
Help with install and no CAI
Ok, I am going to do the install this weekend, but I do not know the best place to install the fan nozzle. I have a JWT popcharger and do not really want to have to by a $200 PRCai. Does anyone have any advise on the install.
My questions:
Where to install spray nozzle if i use the JWT intake?
Which vaccum line to use?
Where to install the solenoids and onto what?
What electrical source to tap into?
I pretty much have all the small things assembled. I just have to install it in the car.
My questions:
Where to install spray nozzle if i use the JWT intake?
Which vaccum line to use?
Where to install the solenoids and onto what?
What electrical source to tap into?
I pretty much have all the small things assembled. I just have to install it in the car.
#133
Re: Help with install and no CAI
Originally posted by 98sterlingmist
Ok, I am going to do the install this weekend, but I do not know the best place to install the fan nozzle. I have a JWT popcharger and do not really want to have to by a $200 PRCai. Does anyone have any advise on the install.
Ok, I am going to do the install this weekend, but I do not know the best place to install the fan nozzle. I have a JWT popcharger and do not really want to have to by a $200 PRCai. Does anyone have any advise on the install.
Thanks
#134
Re: Help with install and no CAI
Originally posted by 98sterlingmist
Ok, I am going to do the install this weekend, but I do not know the best place to install the fan nozzle. I have a JWT popcharger and do not really want to have to by a $200 PRCai. Does anyone have any advise on the install.
My questions:
Where to install spray nozzle if i use the JWT intake?
Which vaccum line to use?
Where to install the solenoids and onto what?
What electrical source to tap into?
I pretty much have all the small things assembled. I just have to install it in the car.
Ok, I am going to do the install this weekend, but I do not know the best place to install the fan nozzle. I have a JWT popcharger and do not really want to have to by a $200 PRCai. Does anyone have any advise on the install.
My questions:
Where to install spray nozzle if i use the JWT intake?
Which vaccum line to use?
Where to install the solenoids and onto what?
What electrical source to tap into?
I pretty much have all the small things assembled. I just have to install it in the car.
#135
NOS FAQ
I found some pretty good FAQ's that basically reiterate the 10 pages above and add some usage information about NOS.
Enjoy the reading...
http://www.turbomx5.com/nitro1.htm
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/nos01.htm
Enjoy the reading...
http://www.turbomx5.com/nitro1.htm
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/nos01.htm
#136
NOS Information
I found some additional NOS information & wanted to share with everyone on this board. NOS is NOT for everyone. I got very excited when I read this thread first and almost ordered the NOS kit but now I am having second thoughts. Here's why...
1) If a bottle heater is not used, then the pressure and temperature may not allow for optimum performance. If you use a bottle heater, and it overheats the bottle AND the safety blow-off valve does not engage, you will have an explosion This did happen to someone.
http://www.healthyhome.net/NOS2.htm
2) If the safety valve does engage and let the gas through without an explosion, the N2O is actually VERY BAD for your health. It is officially declared a Hazardous Material by US Department of Labor and International Occupational Safety and Health Information Centre.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0067.htm
http://www.mathesongas.com/msds/NitrousOxide.htm
In links above search for keyword "death".
-----
I am NOT trying to scare you, just looking for the safest possible way to use a simple 50 shot Nitrous without damaging anyone or anything.
The key is not to let any Nitrous Oxide leak in your garage at the same time you cannot shut off/remove the safety valve for it will explode when it gets hot. So, what do you do when temperatures go in the 90, 100+ degrees Fahrenheit? The only solution would be a bottle heater and cooler. I would pay any price to have an accessory which will maintain optimum temperature & pressure inside the bottle, regardless of ambient temperature.
Until then...
1) If a bottle heater is not used, then the pressure and temperature may not allow for optimum performance. If you use a bottle heater, and it overheats the bottle AND the safety blow-off valve does not engage, you will have an explosion This did happen to someone.
http://www.healthyhome.net/NOS2.htm
2) If the safety valve does engage and let the gas through without an explosion, the N2O is actually VERY BAD for your health. It is officially declared a Hazardous Material by US Department of Labor and International Occupational Safety and Health Information Centre.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0067.htm
http://www.mathesongas.com/msds/NitrousOxide.htm
In links above search for keyword "death".
-----
I am NOT trying to scare you, just looking for the safest possible way to use a simple 50 shot Nitrous without damaging anyone or anything.
The key is not to let any Nitrous Oxide leak in your garage at the same time you cannot shut off/remove the safety valve for it will explode when it gets hot. So, what do you do when temperatures go in the 90, 100+ degrees Fahrenheit? The only solution would be a bottle heater and cooler. I would pay any price to have an accessory which will maintain optimum temperature & pressure inside the bottle, regardless of ambient temperature.
Until then...
#137
Re: NOS Information
Originally posted by dashingMax
I found some additional NOS information & wanted to share with everyone on this board. NOS is NOT for everyone. I got very excited when I read this thread first and almost ordered the NOS kit but now I am having second thoughts. Here's why...
1) If a bottle heater is not used, then the pressure and temperature may not allow for optimum performance. If you use a bottle heater, and it overheats the bottle AND the safety blow-off valve does not engage, you will have an explosion This did happen to someone.
http://www.healthyhome.net/NOS2.htm
2) If the safety valve does engage and let the gas through without an explosion, the N2O is actually VERY BAD for your health. It is officially declared a Hazardous Material by US Department of Labor and International Occupational Safety and Health Information Centre.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0067.htm
I have heard of people wrapping a cool damp cloth around there bottle in the summer time. I my experience with hot weather, the trunk never seems to get as hot as the interior of the car. Probably because there are no window that let direct sunlight in. With a damp cloth you probably will not have to much trouble with NOS bottle temps.
http://www.mathesongas.com/msds/NitrousOxide.htm
In links above search for keyword "death".
-----
I am NOT trying to scare you, just looking for the safest possible way to use a simple 50 shot Nitrous without damaging anyone or anything.
The key is not to let any Nitrous Oxide leak in your garage at the same time you cannot shut off/remove the safety valve for it will explode when it gets hot. So, what do you do when temperatures go in the 90, 100+ degrees Fahrenheit? The only solution would be a bottle heater and cooler. I would pay any price to have an accessory which will maintain optimum temperature & pressure inside the bottle, regardless of ambient temperature.
Until then...
I found some additional NOS information & wanted to share with everyone on this board. NOS is NOT for everyone. I got very excited when I read this thread first and almost ordered the NOS kit but now I am having second thoughts. Here's why...
1) If a bottle heater is not used, then the pressure and temperature may not allow for optimum performance. If you use a bottle heater, and it overheats the bottle AND the safety blow-off valve does not engage, you will have an explosion This did happen to someone.
http://www.healthyhome.net/NOS2.htm
2) If the safety valve does engage and let the gas through without an explosion, the N2O is actually VERY BAD for your health. It is officially declared a Hazardous Material by US Department of Labor and International Occupational Safety and Health Information Centre.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0067.htm
I have heard of people wrapping a cool damp cloth around there bottle in the summer time. I my experience with hot weather, the trunk never seems to get as hot as the interior of the car. Probably because there are no window that let direct sunlight in. With a damp cloth you probably will not have to much trouble with NOS bottle temps.
http://www.mathesongas.com/msds/NitrousOxide.htm
In links above search for keyword "death".
-----
I am NOT trying to scare you, just looking for the safest possible way to use a simple 50 shot Nitrous without damaging anyone or anything.
The key is not to let any Nitrous Oxide leak in your garage at the same time you cannot shut off/remove the safety valve for it will explode when it gets hot. So, what do you do when temperatures go in the 90, 100+ degrees Fahrenheit? The only solution would be a bottle heater and cooler. I would pay any price to have an accessory which will maintain optimum temperature & pressure inside the bottle, regardless of ambient temperature.
Until then...
#138
Re: Re: NOS Information
Originally posted by 98sterlingmist
....
OOPS!! Never mind, I see it! Your answer is wrapped inside my quote section...
#140
Originally posted by 98sterlingmist
Whoops,
Its the part about a cool cloth on the bottle.
Whoops,
Its the part about a cool cloth on the bottle.
#141
Re: NOS Information
Originally posted by dashingMax
I found some additional NOS information & wanted to share with everyone on this board. NOS is NOT for everyone. I got very excited when I read this thread first and almost ordered the NOS kit but now I am having second thoughts. Here's why...
1) If a bottle heater is not used, then the pressure and temperature may not allow for optimum performance. If you use a bottle heater, and it overheats the bottle AND the safety blow-off valve does not engage, you will have an explosion This did happen to someone.
http://www.healthyhome.net/NOS2.htm
2) If the safety valve does engage and let the gas through without an explosion, the N2O is actually VERY BAD for your health. It is officially declared a Hazardous Material by US Department of Labor and International Occupational Safety and Health Information Centre.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0067.htm
http://www.mathesongas.com/msds/NitrousOxide.htm
In links above search for keyword "death".
-----
I am NOT trying to scare you, just looking for the safest possible way to use a simple 50 shot Nitrous without damaging anyone or anything.
The key is not to let any Nitrous Oxide leak in your garage at the same time you cannot shut off/remove the safety valve for it will explode when it gets hot. So, what do you do when temperatures go in the 90, 100+ degrees Fahrenheit? The only solution would be a bottle heater and cooler. I would pay any price to have an accessory which will maintain optimum temperature & pressure inside the bottle, regardless of ambient temperature.
Until then...
I found some additional NOS information & wanted to share with everyone on this board. NOS is NOT for everyone. I got very excited when I read this thread first and almost ordered the NOS kit but now I am having second thoughts. Here's why...
1) If a bottle heater is not used, then the pressure and temperature may not allow for optimum performance. If you use a bottle heater, and it overheats the bottle AND the safety blow-off valve does not engage, you will have an explosion This did happen to someone.
http://www.healthyhome.net/NOS2.htm
2) If the safety valve does engage and let the gas through without an explosion, the N2O is actually VERY BAD for your health. It is officially declared a Hazardous Material by US Department of Labor and International Occupational Safety and Health Information Centre.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0067.htm
http://www.mathesongas.com/msds/NitrousOxide.htm
In links above search for keyword "death".
-----
I am NOT trying to scare you, just looking for the safest possible way to use a simple 50 shot Nitrous without damaging anyone or anything.
The key is not to let any Nitrous Oxide leak in your garage at the same time you cannot shut off/remove the safety valve for it will explode when it gets hot. So, what do you do when temperatures go in the 90, 100+ degrees Fahrenheit? The only solution would be a bottle heater and cooler. I would pay any price to have an accessory which will maintain optimum temperature & pressure inside the bottle, regardless of ambient temperature.
Until then...
2. Yes, leaky NOS is bad but this is why they sugguest a blow down tube. That relieves the NOS pressure to the outside of the car. You wont need this unless you own a hatchback (Racing Rules) or so they say. If your bottle is up to the proper PSI, then you wouldnt have to worry about this.
It takes a lot for a bottle to explode. I leave my valve off all the time. If you live in temp over 100 degrees, i sugguest you leaving the bottle in side. I left my bottle in my trunk the whole sumemr with temps of 95+, it doesnt do anything except raise bottle pressure. At 90 degrees, your bottle will only be @ 900-950psi. That is the normal running PSI. You have no fear. Only idiots blow their cars but vecause they do not understand how NOS works & how to handle it. It is prue common sense.
50 shot is your safest bet. a 50 shot took 1 full second off of my AUTO.
#142
Ok two questions.
First. I have a TV in my car. I have a laptop in my house. I bet you know where Im going with this... the whole Fast and Furious deal... Anyway that i can get all my info, fuel presure, boost ,etc, into a laptop? Has anyone made a program to do this? and made a way to import the sensors into a laptop? I think that would be so cool to have all the info on my lcd screen.
Also - I plan to get a 50 shot kit. I will then get summit racings window switch and send it off to those people MCD or whatever. Once i get that, am i 110% ready for my 50 shot?
Is a 50 shot with PR CAI and YPIPE enough to beat a 5.0 stang with headers exhust and pullies? Or will i need more nitrous?
Thanks. I read this whole thread and I didnt see anything about my first question. The second question has kind of been asked but not really anwsered. Thanks guys.
First. I have a TV in my car. I have a laptop in my house. I bet you know where Im going with this... the whole Fast and Furious deal... Anyway that i can get all my info, fuel presure, boost ,etc, into a laptop? Has anyone made a program to do this? and made a way to import the sensors into a laptop? I think that would be so cool to have all the info on my lcd screen.
Also - I plan to get a 50 shot kit. I will then get summit racings window switch and send it off to those people MCD or whatever. Once i get that, am i 110% ready for my 50 shot?
Is a 50 shot with PR CAI and YPIPE enough to beat a 5.0 stang with headers exhust and pullies? Or will i need more nitrous?
Thanks. I read this whole thread and I didnt see anything about my first question. The second question has kind of been asked but not really anwsered. Thanks guys.
#143
Re: Re: NOS Information
Originally posted by Synki
2. Yes, leaky NOS is bad but this is why they sugguest a blow down tube. That relieves the NOS pressure to the outside of the car. You wont need this unless you own a hatchback (Racing Rules) or so they say. If your bottle is up to the proper PSI, then you wouldnt have to worry about this.
2. Yes, leaky NOS is bad but this is why they sugguest a blow down tube. That relieves the NOS pressure to the outside of the car. You wont need this unless you own a hatchback (Racing Rules) or so they say. If your bottle is up to the proper PSI, then you wouldnt have to worry about this.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...S/filters.html
#145
Always remember, there is no dumb question esp when playing w/ NOS.
No, the kit doesnt come with a blow down tube. Tracks usually require hatchback cars to have them.
Nick: I had a in-adsh TV & my lappie & i was thinking the same thing. I hav eno idea who to do this, but it would look neat!
With a 50 shot, CAI, & Y-pipe, i can keep up with the new 4.6 stang (stock). I ran a 14.3 vs my friends 14.4 (stock convert.).
However, i have beaten the older mustangs early 80's to early 90's with the 5.0. I have Chris91SE as a witness to this. They are usually a low 15 stock but w/ some minor mods expect a 14.7-14.5. The guy i ran got me on the launch but i pulled right back and walked him. I ran a 14.4 vs his 14.7. He had intake, header, exhaust. I dont know about pulley. Put it this way, you may or may not win but it certainly increase your chances.
If you run a 50 shot, gauges are not need but i would suggest having them anyways. The switch you are tlakin about is called a Window Switch. The MSD is the beahpest of teh bunch but has been mroe then reliable for many of us. You will need to send it in & have them modifiy it for 1 cyl application. This will only set you back $30.
No, the kit doesnt come with a blow down tube. Tracks usually require hatchback cars to have them.
Nick: I had a in-adsh TV & my lappie & i was thinking the same thing. I hav eno idea who to do this, but it would look neat!
With a 50 shot, CAI, & Y-pipe, i can keep up with the new 4.6 stang (stock). I ran a 14.3 vs my friends 14.4 (stock convert.).
However, i have beaten the older mustangs early 80's to early 90's with the 5.0. I have Chris91SE as a witness to this. They are usually a low 15 stock but w/ some minor mods expect a 14.7-14.5. The guy i ran got me on the launch but i pulled right back and walked him. I ran a 14.4 vs his 14.7. He had intake, header, exhaust. I dont know about pulley. Put it this way, you may or may not win but it certainly increase your chances.
If you run a 50 shot, gauges are not need but i would suggest having them anyways. The switch you are tlakin about is called a Window Switch. The MSD is the beahpest of teh bunch but has been mroe then reliable for many of us. You will need to send it in & have them modifiy it for 1 cyl application. This will only set you back $30.
#147
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
Posts: 7,081
I don't think anyone is using it since it's so much $$$, but based on Venom's other products, I wouldn't get it, go for the JWT if you want an ECU controlled NOS kit, or just go for a Holley NOS kit...
Originally posted by Canuck
How good is the venom kit? Is it worth the money?
How good is the venom kit? Is it worth the money?
#149
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
Posts: 7,081
With a 50 shot you don't 'need' any, but the best gauges to get would be a full sweep 0-100psi fuel pressure gauge, an EGT, and a nitrous pressure gauge.
Originally posted by pawn
so what all guages do i need....??????? Egt A/f boost...????just curious....
so what all guages do i need....??????? Egt A/f boost...????just curious....
#153
Originally posted by Canuck
With the MSD Window Switch did how do you get it to work on a distributerless engine. Do you just send it to MSD and they reprogram it?
Also where could I get an NOS window switch, I can't find it anywhere.
Thanks
With the MSD Window Switch did how do you get it to work on a distributerless engine. Do you just send it to MSD and they reprogram it?
Also where could I get an NOS window switch, I can't find it anywhere.
Thanks
#154
Originally posted by Canuck
With the MSD Window Switch did how do you get it to work on a distributerless engine. Do you just send it to MSD and they reprogram it?
Also where could I get an NOS window switch, I can't find it anywhere.
Thanks
With the MSD Window Switch did how do you get it to work on a distributerless engine. Do you just send it to MSD and they reprogram it?
Also where could I get an NOS window switch, I can't find it anywhere.
Thanks
You can order teh NOS window switch from Jegs. The NOS window switch will get you back about $175. (This is why many of us went with MSD).
#155
Thanks for all the help guys, the only thing now is that I am worried that I don't have the skills to install it myself, so I gotta find someone else to do it. How much should I pay, and what kind of shop will do it.
Thanks
Thanks
#156
Originally posted by Canuck
Thanks for all the help guys, the only thing now is that I am worried that I don't have the skills to install it myself, so I gotta find someone else to do it. How much should I pay, and what kind of shop will do it.
Thanks
Thanks for all the help guys, the only thing now is that I am worried that I don't have the skills to install it myself, so I gotta find someone else to do it. How much should I pay, and what kind of shop will do it.
Thanks
did you buy a kit????
#159
Originally posted by Canuck
Thanks for all the help guys, the only thing now is that I am worried that I don't have the skills to install it myself, so I gotta find someone else to do it. How much should I pay, and what kind of shop will do it.
Thanks
Thanks for all the help guys, the only thing now is that I am worried that I don't have the skills to install it myself, so I gotta find someone else to do it. How much should I pay, and what kind of shop will do it.
Thanks
A shop here said a day and a half! Which is like 450 bucks. As much as the kit. Yuck!
#160
Originally posted by Nick Robinson
A shop here said a day and a half! Which is like 450 bucks. As much as the kit. Yuck!
A shop here said a day and a half! Which is like 450 bucks. As much as the kit. Yuck!
I was quoted $250 by Car Boutique to install the standard NOS kit with the Bottle heater.
Another shop (APG Performance) quoted me $300 to do the kit, A/F gauge, EGT gauge & NOS pressure gauge, all gauges insalled in the cockpit!!