Driveability with aluminum flywheel???
09-23-2001, 01:05 AM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 97
Driveability with aluminum flywheel???
I will be getting a new clutch in about a month or so and was thinking of getting an aluminum flywheel too. My question is, if my daily driveability and overall longevity would suffer too bad. I know that I will have to rev the engine higher to get movin' but, I also know that acceleration would improve. I have a 91se so I'm lookin' to gain performance any way I can as there are not as many options as with newer Max's.
Anyway I figured I'd ask since there are alot of knowledgeable people on the forum.
Thanks in advanced
Anyway I figured I'd ask since there are alot of knowledgeable people on the forum.
Thanks in advanced
09-23-2001, 07:49 AM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
I've heard some folks advise against aluminum flywheels, not so much because of their slight adverse effect on driveability, but from the standpoint of their marginal utility. While their lighter rotational mass contributes to slightly improved acceleration, these babies are expensive, as in the $500+ range. There are much greater improvements that can be made for $500: I have not heard anyone raving about their new aluminum flywheel. I have decided to pass on this option in favor of something (anything) else, to be determined. When I get my clutch installed, I'll just have the OEM flywheel resurfaced. Good luck.
09-23-2001, 08:14 AM
#3
If someone can post the stock flywheel weight along with the transmission gearing, final drive, and tire size, I can convert the flywheel weight into a static weight reduction.
If you have any idea on flywheels that you are looking at, post their weights since I'll need those, too.
The formula is: 1/2 FW weight * [(flywheel radius x gear x final drive)/(tire radius)]^2
On the 300ZX, the flywheels are generally good for 150-180 lb static weight reduction in first gear.
If you're willing to spend $500 on a catback exhaust you should be willing to spend the same amount on a flywheel..
If you have any idea on flywheels that you are looking at, post their weights since I'll need those, too.
The formula is: 1/2 FW weight * [(flywheel radius x gear x final drive)/(tire radius)]^2
On the 300ZX, the flywheels are generally good for 150-180 lb static weight reduction in first gear.
If you're willing to spend $500 on a catback exhaust you should be willing to spend the same amount on a flywheel..
09-23-2001, 08:26 AM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
Originally posted by got rice?
If someone can post the stock flywheel weight along with the transmission gearing, final drive, and tire size, I can convert the flywheel weight into a static weight reduction.
If you have any idea on flywheels that you are looking at, post their weights since I'll need those, too.
The formula is: 1/2 FW weight * [(flywheel radius x gear x final drive)/(tire radius)]^2
On the 300ZX, the flywheels are generally good for 150-180 lb static weight reduction in first gear.
If you're willing to spend $500 on a catback exhaust you should be willing to spend the same amount on a flywheel..
If someone can post the stock flywheel weight along with the transmission gearing, final drive, and tire size, I can convert the flywheel weight into a static weight reduction.
If you have any idea on flywheels that you are looking at, post their weights since I'll need those, too.
The formula is: 1/2 FW weight * [(flywheel radius x gear x final drive)/(tire radius)]^2
On the 300ZX, the flywheels are generally good for 150-180 lb static weight reduction in first gear.
If you're willing to spend $500 on a catback exhaust you should be willing to spend the same amount on a flywheel..
09-23-2001, 11:19 AM
#5
I have had a couple Stillen Alluminum Flywheels now. One in my ex SC I30 and I currently have one in my 95 maxima. Daily drivability is not affected in the slightest. The car revs up noticably quicker in 1st gear. I get to compare my stock I30 to my modded max and the max revs up way quicker and drivability is just as good.
Gotrice, if I recall currectly the stock iron flywheel weighs 21 lb's and the Stillen flywheel weighs 14 lb's. I am not possitive about these #'s but they are definatly close.
Gotrice, if I recall currectly the stock iron flywheel weighs 21 lb's and the Stillen flywheel weighs 14 lb's. I am not possitive about these #'s but they are definatly close.
09-24-2001, 09:38 AM
#6
Originally posted by bullseye
My point is even if we concede am aluminum flywheel improves acceleration more than it degrades driveability, the perforamnce improvement must not be too noticeable, or we'd see more positive feedback from those who took the plunge. Indeed, more people would be taking the plunge. The fact is, most folks out there seem to be investing thousands of bucks in their Maximas, without a sideways glance at an aluminum flywheel. That's it from here. What say you?
My point is even if we concede am aluminum flywheel improves acceleration more than it degrades driveability, the perforamnce improvement must not be too noticeable, or we'd see more positive feedback from those who took the plunge. Indeed, more people would be taking the plunge. The fact is, most folks out there seem to be investing thousands of bucks in their Maximas, without a sideways glance at an aluminum flywheel. That's it from here. What say you?
If you want objective data..
the stock flywheel is around 24 lbs, most aftermarket ones are around 12 lbs.
1st gear on a manual 00-01 Maxima is 3.285, final drive is 3.823
tire size (for this example) is 225.50.17.
stocky flywheel size is 240 mm
plug the numbers in the formula and a 12 lb flywheel is effectively the same as removing 126.33 lbs of static weight.. in first gear.
For second gear, it drops down to 40.06, and so on...
This mod on an all motor car with decent amount of torque isn't really necessary but it is still worth some gains, especially in autocrossing and road racing. For drag racing, it won't make much difference.. approximately .1 seconds. For smaller displacement engines that need to rev up to be in their powerband or for turbo vehicles, the lighter flywheel is worthwhile since the engine will reach it's usable engine speed ranger quicker since the engine will rev up quicker.
That's it from here, what say you?
09-24-2001, 09:17 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 526
yea, duke it out!
Well, I like it when two gents argue their points civily! way to go.
I say that the fly wheel certainly is not an "early" mod. Obviously there are other mods of greater power gains for the same monetary investment.
One reason you don't hear about it is that the people who do fly wheels usually are more performance oriented members, having done all the usual mods already. These members tend to post much less since most of the post topics are of no interest to them.
I have been in a fly wheel modded car, and it does seem to make the car feel faster and rev more freely. If you got the duckies, and is planning to open up the tranny anyway, might as well! 100+ pounds of weight is a lot to shed. Just think what you car feels like when you have an extra person riding vs when it is just yourself. You know what I'm talking about; the car accelerates much quicker.
I say if you already have the y pipe and cat back stuff, then get a nice kevlar clutch and go for it.
ps-Ethan, definitely. I'm not trying to make fun, just thought you would want to spell it right.
ming
I say that the fly wheel certainly is not an "early" mod. Obviously there are other mods of greater power gains for the same monetary investment.
One reason you don't hear about it is that the people who do fly wheels usually are more performance oriented members, having done all the usual mods already. These members tend to post much less since most of the post topics are of no interest to them.
I have been in a fly wheel modded car, and it does seem to make the car feel faster and rev more freely. If you got the duckies, and is planning to open up the tranny anyway, might as well! 100+ pounds of weight is a lot to shed. Just think what you car feels like when you have an extra person riding vs when it is just yourself. You know what I'm talking about; the car accelerates much quicker.
I say if you already have the y pipe and cat back stuff, then get a nice kevlar clutch and go for it.
ps-Ethan, definitely. I'm not trying to make fun, just thought you would want to spell it right.
ming
09-25-2001, 08:37 AM
#8
Re: yea, duke it out!
Originally posted by MAC
Well, I like it when two gents argue their points civily! way to go.
I say that the fly wheel certainly is not an "early" mod. Obviously there are other mods of greater power gains for the same monetary investment.
ming
Well, I like it when two gents argue their points civily! way to go.
I say that the fly wheel certainly is not an "early" mod. Obviously there are other mods of greater power gains for the same monetary investment.
ming
The flywheel should shave off about .5 to .75 seconds on a 50 second Solo II autocross course
09-25-2001, 07:09 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
Originally posted by got rice?
The majority of the cars on this forum are automatics so that is why you do not see many posts on aluminum flywheel upgrades. I don't remember seeing anyone that has done the upgrade say it is not worth doing.
If you want objective data..
the stock flywheel is around 24 lbs, most aftermarket ones are around 12 lbs.
1st gear on a manual 00-01 Maxima is 3.285, final drive is 3.823
tire size (for this example) is 225.50.17.
stocky flywheel size is 240 mm
plug the numbers in the formula and a 12 lb flywheel is effectively the same as removing 126.33 lbs of static weight.. in first gear.
For second gear, it drops down to 40.06, and so on...
This mod on an all motor car with decent amount of torque isn't really necessary but it is still worth some gains, especially in autocrossing and road racing. For drag racing, it won't make much difference.. approximately .1 seconds. For smaller displacement engines that need to rev up to be in their powerband or for turbo vehicles, the lighter flywheel is worthwhile since the engine will reach it's usable engine speed ranger quicker since the engine will rev up quicker.
That's it from here, what say you?
The majority of the cars on this forum are automatics so that is why you do not see many posts on aluminum flywheel upgrades. I don't remember seeing anyone that has done the upgrade say it is not worth doing.
If you want objective data..
the stock flywheel is around 24 lbs, most aftermarket ones are around 12 lbs.
1st gear on a manual 00-01 Maxima is 3.285, final drive is 3.823
tire size (for this example) is 225.50.17.
stocky flywheel size is 240 mm
plug the numbers in the formula and a 12 lb flywheel is effectively the same as removing 126.33 lbs of static weight.. in first gear.
For second gear, it drops down to 40.06, and so on...
This mod on an all motor car with decent amount of torque isn't really necessary but it is still worth some gains, especially in autocrossing and road racing. For drag racing, it won't make much difference.. approximately .1 seconds. For smaller displacement engines that need to rev up to be in their powerband or for turbo vehicles, the lighter flywheel is worthwhile since the engine will reach it's usable engine speed ranger quicker since the engine will rev up quicker.
That's it from here, what say you?
04-04-2002, 12:49 PM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 1,094
I like mine from UR! I beleive it is lighter than stillens.
Unfortunately I got most of my stuff put on at once, so I can't say for sure what the difference was. For sure it was better and did not affect my drivability. I dont even race or drag hehe.
Peace
Unfortunately I got most of my stuff put on at once, so I can't say for sure what the difference was. For sure it was better and did not affect my drivability. I dont even race or drag hehe.
Peace
04-04-2002, 01:36 PM
#13
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I was about to go with a aluminum flywheel but due to the fact that I was going with a supercharger my credit card went up mighty quick and climbing, when this ACT clutch goes I will replace my flywheel with an aluminum flywheel. Like someone posted it cant hurt the car in any way. Think about it your engine wont have to work as hard to spin that flywheel so it makes sense, according to the guy he also claimed to have better gas mileage. Getting to the tranny is not easy Eric or Kevin Wong is one of those two guys says he can do it in 2 hours, and he knows what hes doing what about someone that has not done it, might as well replace it if you have the funds. You can also go with a Fidenza aluminum flywheel. Yo its okay says that he has installed them on quite a few cars!!!!
04-04-2002, 01:52 PM
#15
"Us"? That's pretty impressive. But I don't see how you have all these other mechanical questions if you can pull a tranny in 1 hour?
Originally posted by flyry110
it took us an hour to pull the tranny in my 3rd gen. prolly another hour and a half to put her back togther
it took us an hour to pull the tranny in my 3rd gen. prolly another hour and a half to put her back togther
04-04-2002, 02:06 PM
#16
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Originally posted by Jeff92se
"Us"? That's pretty impressive. But I don't see how you have all these other mechanical questions if you can pull a tranny in 1 hour?
"Us"? That's pretty impressive. But I don't see how you have all these other mechanical questions if you can pull a tranny in 1 hour?
, this is funny, Moderator, Moderating!!!!
04-04-2002, 02:37 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,238
well this isn't the first tranny i've done, and it's not the first time this tranny has been out. jason (the dude who owns the shop) and i pulled it in about an hour. i just unclamp my intake, unbolt my slave cylinder, zip the drivers side wheel off, zip the main bolt off (in rotor), pull the 2 lower bolts on the bottom of the strut assembly, swing control arm down, pull half shaft out, oh, my inner fender was already out. then put the jack under the oil pan, zip off 2 mounts, lower the jack so the engine tilts, zip out the tranny bolts (here's where gear wrenches are nice). place jack under tranny and lift just barely then pry bar on top and bottom while sliding jack away from car. tranny comes right out. it's harder to put back in for some reason. I'm not sure. last time we pulled it, it took us twice as long to get it back in and lined up. dunno why.
the mechanical questions i ask are things i just haven't picked up yet, or maxima specific questions. I've done some stuff. i rebuilt my jeep on my own, i've done clutches, drive shafts, i changed teh clutch in leb's 300Z with just me and him, and he didn't know what he was doing at all. air tools and impact guns help soooooo much! PB blaster is also your friend
the mechanical questions i ask are things i just haven't picked up yet, or maxima specific questions. I've done some stuff. i rebuilt my jeep on my own, i've done clutches, drive shafts, i changed teh clutch in leb's 300Z with just me and him, and he didn't know what he was doing at all. air tools and impact guns help soooooo much! PB blaster is also your friend
04-04-2002, 08:35 PM
#19
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 97
All Done
Here's an update... I got my aluminum flywheel installed with just a stock nissan clutch kit and an aluminum udp(both from Unorthodox). I must say I REALLy like the improvements.
The car definately revs quicker and feels stronger on acceleration. I know I don't get any more horse-power, just freeing up some that is tied up. But damn I like it.
Next I will do the y-pipe (hopefully there will be some gd's this spring or summer) and the rest of the exhaust. After that not sure.
I have not noticed any driveability issues except for having to rev the engine a little more when leaving the line in normal traffic, and the clutch pedal feels lighter but other than that every thing else is fine.
The car definately revs quicker and feels stronger on acceleration. I know I don't get any more horse-power, just freeing up some that is tied up. But damn I like it.
Next I will do the y-pipe (hopefully there will be some gd's this spring or summer) and the rest of the exhaust. After that not sure.
I have not noticed any driveability issues except for having to rev the engine a little more when leaving the line in normal traffic, and the clutch pedal feels lighter but other than that every thing else is fine.
04-04-2002, 10:23 PM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Re: Driveability with aluminum flywheel???
There's been a lot said about this, but I'll repeat what I've written before ... I love the aluminum flywheel mod! There is NO adverse driveability. I do NOT need to rev higher to get offline, except perhaps on steep hills. I do about 1500 miles a month, in SF on hills and on winding country roads. The car feels much more lively off the line and in lower gears. My mileage is slightly up. It's a very cool mod, and I'd do it again. If you are doing the clutch anyway and can afford the $400 more than resurfacing your stock clutch, go for it! BTW, I thought the stock flywheel was 17 lbs; the Mueller from Stillen is about 5 lbs, but then you put on the ring gear which probably brings it to about 12 ...
04-04-2002, 10:39 PM
#21
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Originally posted by flyry110
it took us an hour to pull the tranny in my 3rd gen. prolly another hour and a half to put her back togther
it took us an hour to pull the tranny in my 3rd gen. prolly another hour and a half to put her back togther
04-06-2002, 07:55 PM
#22
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Re: Re: Driveability with aluminum flywheel???
Originally posted by OriginalMadMax
There's been a lot said about this, but I'll repeat what I've written before ... I love the aluminum flywheel mod! There is NO adverse driveability. I do NOT need to rev higher to get offline, except perhaps on steep hills. I do about 1500 miles a month, in SF on hills and on winding country roads. The car feels much more lively off the line and in lower gears. My mileage is slightly up. It's a very cool mod, and I'd do it again. If you are doing the clutch anyway and can afford the $400 more than resurfacing your stock clutch, go for it! BTW, I thought the stock flywheel was 17 lbs; the Mueller from Stillen is about 5 lbs, but then you put on the ring gear which probably brings it to about 12 ...
There's been a lot said about this, but I'll repeat what I've written before ... I love the aluminum flywheel mod! There is NO adverse driveability. I do NOT need to rev higher to get offline, except perhaps on steep hills. I do about 1500 miles a month, in SF on hills and on winding country roads. The car feels much more lively off the line and in lower gears. My mileage is slightly up. It's a very cool mod, and I'd do it again. If you are doing the clutch anyway and can afford the $400 more than resurfacing your stock clutch, go for it! BTW, I thought the stock flywheel was 17 lbs; the Mueller from Stillen is about 5 lbs, but then you put on the ring gear which probably brings it to about 12 ...
Here is the guy I was talking about, with the alloy flywheel, guy you convinced to get one in about a year in half though this supercharger and other issues just broke the bank!!!
04-06-2002, 11:04 PM
#25
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Re: Re: Re: Driveability with aluminum flywheel???
Originally posted by JAY25
Here is the guy I was talking about, with the alloy flywheel, guy you convinced to get one in about a year in half though this supercharger and other issues just broke the bank!!!
Here is the guy I was talking about, with the alloy flywheel, guy you convinced to get one in about a year in half though this supercharger and other issues just broke the bank!!!
Now if I hadn't gone back to grad school, I coulda afforded the supercharger ...
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