AARRRRGGGGG.... car starts like crap
#1
AARRRRGGGGG.... car starts like crap
%#@%#.
something is wrong. the car cranks and cranks and its hella sluggish to start. it dont matter if its hot or cold.
sometimes i hear a loud crack. then it tries to crank over...
my mechanic says it might be an injector leak or cam sensor.. but its only when i start the car...
and i know its not the fuel pump flooding the system.....
but get this. when i lean of the floor and touch the clutch-pedal starter button with my finger (when the car is out of gear) the car starts fine... and i tried adjusting the button but nothing happens... %#@%#
help?
something is wrong. the car cranks and cranks and its hella sluggish to start. it dont matter if its hot or cold.
sometimes i hear a loud crack. then it tries to crank over...
my mechanic says it might be an injector leak or cam sensor.. but its only when i start the car...
and i know its not the fuel pump flooding the system.....
but get this. when i lean of the floor and touch the clutch-pedal starter button with my finger (when the car is out of gear) the car starts fine... and i tried adjusting the button but nothing happens... %#@%#
help?
#3
Hey Cheston, what's up dude? It's funny that you have the EXACT{to the T} same problem I have right now. Only thing is my problem started up after my clutch was replaced by a horrible mechanic. I replaced my starter a few weeks back and I thought I fixed the problem, but sure enough it is back! The new starter made the problem go away for over a week. Heres a good quote from Danile B. Martin{addressing my particular problem}.
{DBM}
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS) is located on the clutch housing. This sensor must be disconnected in order to remove the tranny and install the new clutch. A careless technician may have overlooked this detail and attempted to remove the tranny without first disconnecting this sensor. Rrrrippp! This might have damaged the harness, the connector, or the sensor. Please check on this.
Refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-21) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-12) for a depiction of this sensor and its location. You may test the sensor with an ohmmeter. The resistance should be 470-570 ohms at 68 degrees F.
{DBM}
{Me again}
I plan on checking this piece out tommarow and I am going to see how much it costs. I will let you know how everything goes.
Later dude
{DBM}
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS) is located on the clutch housing. This sensor must be disconnected in order to remove the tranny and install the new clutch. A careless technician may have overlooked this detail and attempted to remove the tranny without first disconnecting this sensor. Rrrrippp! This might have damaged the harness, the connector, or the sensor. Please check on this.
Refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-21) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-12) for a depiction of this sensor and its location. You may test the sensor with an ohmmeter. The resistance should be 470-570 ohms at 68 degrees F.
{DBM}
{Me again}
I plan on checking this piece out tommarow and I am going to see how much it costs. I will let you know how everything goes.
Later dude
#5
Originally posted by Chebosto
thanks Ethan--
i'll tell him he broke it.
hehe.
maybe he'll be cool enuf to fix it for it.
thanks Ethan--
i'll tell him he broke it.
hehe.
maybe he'll be cool enuf to fix it for it.
#13
my dyno? pathetic....
246.3 fwhp , 236.0 ft/lb
with 3.48" pulley, lightened fly, exhaust, and 15 inch stockers.
but get this,
this stupid *** dyno place is running on 8 thousand pound rollers instead of the normal 4000.
everyone there was pulling about 8-10 hp LESS than what they usually dyno at.
a TRD solara that was supercharged pulled only 199 hp... normally. just bolting on the SC should give it around 220 hp...
so i wasn't the only one ****ed off.
also. my top end DIED off at 5500 rpms... again!.
i think i reached the capacity of the stock filter (i have yet to do my CAI conversion) and now i think i will, and quite possibly put on a midget and go for the gold of 270 fwhp.. that's my goal for now, and i will be putting in the SC ECU soon..
--cheston
246.3 fwhp , 236.0 ft/lb
with 3.48" pulley, lightened fly, exhaust, and 15 inch stockers.
but get this,
this stupid *** dyno place is running on 8 thousand pound rollers instead of the normal 4000.
everyone there was pulling about 8-10 hp LESS than what they usually dyno at.
a TRD solara that was supercharged pulled only 199 hp... normally. just bolting on the SC should give it around 220 hp...
so i wasn't the only one ****ed off.
also. my top end DIED off at 5500 rpms... again!.
i think i reached the capacity of the stock filter (i have yet to do my CAI conversion) and now i think i will, and quite possibly put on a midget and go for the gold of 270 fwhp.. that's my goal for now, and i will be putting in the SC ECU soon..
--cheston
#15
Originally posted by BlackMax62
I'm scared to be Supercharged after reading all of this
I'm scared to be Supercharged after reading all of this
#16
Originally posted by Chebosto
this stupid *** dyno place is running on 8 thousand pound rollers instead of the normal 4000.
everyone there was pulling about 8-10 hp LESS than what they usually dyno at.
this stupid *** dyno place is running on 8 thousand pound rollers instead of the normal 4000.
everyone there was pulling about 8-10 hp LESS than what they usually dyno at.
good 2 hear, at least for little ole 157fwhp me.
#19
Originally posted by Chebosto
Ethan...
ever fix the problem?
bump!
Ethan...
ever fix the problem?
bump!
#24
I paid for the Search feature, Imma make the most of it. lol.
Yeah, I realize some of the members havent posted in a while. Maybe someone else w/similar problems can shed some light. I'm in a bind.
Jae
Yeah, I realize some of the members havent posted in a while. Maybe someone else w/similar problems can shed some light. I'm in a bind.
Jae
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06-16-2019 01:35 AM