prepping the car for a year of storage
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,461
From: Northern New Jersey
prepping the car for a year of storage
im leavin for iraq in this coming june... quite naturally im still keeping the maxima but at a storage facility... wat are some of the recommended things that i would need to do to prep up for storage for that long...?
get 4 jack stands, drive out most of the gas before hand so less goes bad, unplug the battery and put it on a trickle charger, you also want to bleed your gas lines cause the gas will corrode.
I dont know a whole lot i just have restored stuff and that is what i wish the previous owner would have done.
P.S.
1st Nice max she is a beaut
2nd good luck, be smart, and stay safe
3rd This is very blunt. but if you dont come back could i have your max?.......JK......but seriously
I dont know a whole lot i just have restored stuff and that is what i wish the previous owner would have done.
P.S.
1st Nice max she is a beaut
2nd good luck, be smart, and stay safe
3rd This is very blunt. but if you dont come back could i have your max?.......JK......but seriously
4 jackstands.
Don't try to drain your fuel lines. I usually leave my car full of gas when I store it. Here's why:
"(If you know gas will sit in your tank or a storage container for a couple months, then it's a wise move to buy some fuel system stabilizer and mix it in with the gasoline. Do it before you put the vehicle into long-term storage or before leaving your lawn equipment fuel containers sitting for the winter. The stabilizer helps prevent oxidation, the biggie that can turn gas into garbage that gunks up your system and leads to expensive repair work.
Using fuel system stabilizer for extended storage is preferable to draining the tank and leaving the system dry. This can cause rubber hoses, gaskets and seals to dry-rot and crack, possibly leading to leaks and even a fire. In addition, a dry system can expose the insides of metal fuel lines and your gas tank to air and moisture, which can lead to or accelerate the formation of rust.
Fuel system stabilizer is not a cure-all and it doesn't last forever. It must be mixed with fresh gas before the vehicle is stored, not added to already old gas. It can slow down the oxidation process and keep gas fresh for as long as 12 to15 months. If you're going to leave the vehicle parked for longer than that, you may want to drain the tank and refill with fresh fuel before returning the vehicle to service.)"
Be sure to drive the car for at least half an hour and mostly highway speeds before parking it for good. You want any moisture out of the crankcase and exhaust system before letting it sit. Short drives and extended idling allowing moisture to build up.
Maybe a oil change a few weeks prior would be a nice idea?
Disconnect your battery. A trickle charger is nice, but not totally necessary. A regular car battery can survive for quite a while as long as you are not slowing discharging it. So, trickle charger is nice, but if you don't have electrical outlet at the car's storage it's OK to go without.
Make sure the car is really clean. Inside/out to prevent any unwanted staining or damage of any surfaces. Definitely don't store it with bird poop on it!
Don't try to drain your fuel lines. I usually leave my car full of gas when I store it. Here's why:
"(If you know gas will sit in your tank or a storage container for a couple months, then it's a wise move to buy some fuel system stabilizer and mix it in with the gasoline. Do it before you put the vehicle into long-term storage or before leaving your lawn equipment fuel containers sitting for the winter. The stabilizer helps prevent oxidation, the biggie that can turn gas into garbage that gunks up your system and leads to expensive repair work.
Using fuel system stabilizer for extended storage is preferable to draining the tank and leaving the system dry. This can cause rubber hoses, gaskets and seals to dry-rot and crack, possibly leading to leaks and even a fire. In addition, a dry system can expose the insides of metal fuel lines and your gas tank to air and moisture, which can lead to or accelerate the formation of rust.
Fuel system stabilizer is not a cure-all and it doesn't last forever. It must be mixed with fresh gas before the vehicle is stored, not added to already old gas. It can slow down the oxidation process and keep gas fresh for as long as 12 to15 months. If you're going to leave the vehicle parked for longer than that, you may want to drain the tank and refill with fresh fuel before returning the vehicle to service.)"
Be sure to drive the car for at least half an hour and mostly highway speeds before parking it for good. You want any moisture out of the crankcase and exhaust system before letting it sit. Short drives and extended idling allowing moisture to build up.
Maybe a oil change a few weeks prior would be a nice idea?
Disconnect your battery. A trickle charger is nice, but not totally necessary. A regular car battery can survive for quite a while as long as you are not slowing discharging it. So, trickle charger is nice, but if you don't have electrical outlet at the car's storage it's OK to go without.
Make sure the car is really clean. Inside/out to prevent any unwanted staining or damage of any surfaces. Definitely don't store it with bird poop on it!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,461
From: Northern New Jersey
thanx for the advice... i mean i love this car alot i mean alot!!! i'd like to return home and run the car around... i mean its burning oil rite now so my plans are solid that as soon as i get back home im doing a 3.5 swap to it... but yea i gotta an *** load of preps to do prior to the deployment... thanks again guys... and ummm NO lol to the person that wanted the car... its under the mothers name as of january due to lower insurance rate while im gone... lol thanx again
good luck over there. stay safe and come back in one piece.
to answer the question...
the BEST thing to do is to have someone start and drive the car at least 30 min every few weeks. keeping it running is the best thing to do.
If you can't, then do this:
1. fuel stabilizer as mentioned above. follow directions on bottle. can buy it at any parts store.
2. change the oil. engine oil develops corrosive acids and etc as it breaks down with age during driving. you want that crap out of the engine before you store it. fresh oil works best. changing the tranny fluid wouldn't hurt, but isn't as big a deal as the engine oil.
3. vacuum the interior. spray a disinfectant over all surfaces and allow car to air dry. this will help to prevent mildew from the car being locked up.
4. when you get the car to the storage location, put the car up on jackstands so the tires aren't sitting on the ground. let at least half the air out of the tires to help prevent them from dry rotting. (pressure on the inside forces oxygen through the porous rubber and causes it to dry and harden quicker.)
5. disconnect the battery. you can put it on a trickle charger if you want, but the main thing is that its fully charged and then disconnected.
6. if you can get your hands on some, throw some large (1lb) dessicant bags on the inside to soak up any moisture from condensation. I don't know how humid it is where you live, but the BIGGEST problem with storing cars in Houston is the humidity. interiors will mildew in a matter of weeks if they're not clean and dry.
to answer the question...
the BEST thing to do is to have someone start and drive the car at least 30 min every few weeks. keeping it running is the best thing to do.
If you can't, then do this:
1. fuel stabilizer as mentioned above. follow directions on bottle. can buy it at any parts store.
2. change the oil. engine oil develops corrosive acids and etc as it breaks down with age during driving. you want that crap out of the engine before you store it. fresh oil works best. changing the tranny fluid wouldn't hurt, but isn't as big a deal as the engine oil.
3. vacuum the interior. spray a disinfectant over all surfaces and allow car to air dry. this will help to prevent mildew from the car being locked up.
4. when you get the car to the storage location, put the car up on jackstands so the tires aren't sitting on the ground. let at least half the air out of the tires to help prevent them from dry rotting. (pressure on the inside forces oxygen through the porous rubber and causes it to dry and harden quicker.)
5. disconnect the battery. you can put it on a trickle charger if you want, but the main thing is that its fully charged and then disconnected.
6. if you can get your hands on some, throw some large (1lb) dessicant bags on the inside to soak up any moisture from condensation. I don't know how humid it is where you live, but the BIGGEST problem with storing cars in Houston is the humidity. interiors will mildew in a matter of weeks if they're not clean and dry.
I just got back from Iraq about 2 months now however was only gone for 6 months and with a Ranger. I jacked it up on jack stands, like everyone is recommending, got an oil change a few days prior, disconnected the negative off my yellow top, left 1/4 tank of gas in the tank, and the shifter in neutral and of course cleaned it. Got back, reconnected the battery, primed (push pedal twice), truck started right up. Went to the body shop on base and changed the oil again. Granted it wasn't driven but I wanted a new change anyway. Have done it this way the last 3 trips over.
ON A LIGHTER SIDE.....BE SAFE, COME HOME SOON AND GOD SPEED. WE'LL ALL BE HERE WHEN YOU RETURN.
GOD BLESS!
ON A LIGHTER SIDE.....BE SAFE, COME HOME SOON AND GOD SPEED. WE'LL ALL BE HERE WHEN YOU RETURN.
GOD BLESS!
Leave it with a full tank as moisture will get into the tank if you leave it with any thing other than full.
Use gas stabilizer in the last full tank prior to the long term park. Put it into the car and drive around the block to get it mixed into the gas.
I would assume you should cover it.
I have heard of people putting dryer sheets into the car because the mice don't like it (or something to that effect.)
If you park it on the tires, park it on wood blocks so it stays off the cold cement.
Put a storage charger onto the battery.
I'm not sure about what else, but I'm sure people will add.
Most important, stay safe.
Use gas stabilizer in the last full tank prior to the long term park. Put it into the car and drive around the block to get it mixed into the gas.
I would assume you should cover it.
I have heard of people putting dryer sheets into the car because the mice don't like it (or something to that effect.)
If you park it on the tires, park it on wood blocks so it stays off the cold cement.
Put a storage charger onto the battery.
I'm not sure about what else, but I'm sure people will add.
Most important, stay safe.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,461
From: Northern New Jersey
i've purchased most of the things... i don't know if i should go for an engine flush prior to storage... but iam however planning on a engine swap as soon as i return but yea i'd like to have it in good and running condition after i return... i was thinking if they have some sort of autostarter where once the battery voltage is low the autostarter system would turn the car over to run it and charge up the battery but at the same time have the engine lubricated all in one shot... do u think its worth it?
As far as the dessicant goes, I've used stuff called DampRid to dry out leaky cars before, and when I left my car behind for my first semester in college. It comes in a container like a paper milk carton. I know it can eat through some materials (metal pie pans are bad) so you might go for the plastic buckets they sell.
Also, I made the mistake of using armorall before I left, and when I got back, everything was sticky. I've heard there's a less greasy version out there, but if I do it again, I'll just wipe everything down with a towel.
As far as the cover goes, my car was outside, so I covered it, and my brother forgot to pull the cover off after it rained. I came back to bubbly clear coat.
Even though it sounds like you won't be able to get someone to drive the car, it might be a good idea to get someone to come by and knock the dust off every few months. If pests are a problem in your area, they could change out traps for you.
Also, I made the mistake of using armorall before I left, and when I got back, everything was sticky. I've heard there's a less greasy version out there, but if I do it again, I'll just wipe everything down with a towel.
As far as the cover goes, my car was outside, so I covered it, and my brother forgot to pull the cover off after it rained. I came back to bubbly clear coat.
Even though it sounds like you won't be able to get someone to drive the car, it might be a good idea to get someone to come by and knock the dust off every few months. If pests are a problem in your area, they could change out traps for you.
Last edited by gotcha640; Dec 5, 2007 at 10:27 AM.
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