My Month Long Project is Finally Over
11-07-2001, 10:33 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,530
My Month Long Project is Finally Over
Alright just to rundown what I did to my car in the past month. I did all the work myself, so thats what took so long. I a) didnt have time b) was waiting for parts to come in c) didnt care because I had a Toyota Camry and the Honda 2 wheeler to drive in the meantime. Anyway, I upgraded clutch to ACT MM clutch, installed Quaife differential, installed Place Racing Poly motor mounts. "While I was at it" I had completly replaced all the gear oil, replaced driveshaft seals, replaced a toasted differential carrier bearing, got my Y pipe fixed, resurfaced the flywheel, changed the oil, changed the coolant.
Still left to do, get an alignment cause the car pulls left now, no doubt from when taking out the driveshafts. Bleed the clutch, I noticed the slave cylinder was dirty. Change brake pads cause they're almost worn to nothingness.
Impressions of new parts- Quaife differential, hard to tell because I've put probably 10 miles on the clutch so far. I dont want to gun it and ruin my clutch, so its hard to tell. I guess the best test will be to do a burnout and see that it has left two tracks. Polyurethane motor mounts- yeah they vibrate alright at idle. I hope it improves, but something tells me it wont. I'm sure it supresses wheel hop but it sure takes away from refinement. If you dont mind the vibration and want to save money, you can save $200+ by making a solid motor mount like I did before, out of turnbuckles, nuts and bolts. ACT clutch, engagement is VERY quick and low to the floor as others have pointed out. The difference is so drastic that I've stalled many times already.
I've learned quite a few things regarding the internals of this transmission. Even my driving style did nothing to do the synchros, the gears or the other bearings. There was nothing except for that one bearing that was toasted that I mentioned in a previous post. This time, I made absolutely sure that I correctly shimed the bearings so the bearings wont be toast again. Also, I used 85-W90 gear oil for the tranny. It is GL-4 spec, and regular dyno conventional oil. The shifting quality actually feels better now then it did before (I have stock shifter). While the transmission was apart, I totally degreased all the parts to remove all traces of GL-5. I suspect people who complain about a notchy shifter have improper oil in their transmissions. You must use GL-4 spec, NOT the more common GL-5. This is important!
If I can drive 200 miles between now and Friday I'll take the best drag racing. The most unnerving part was filling up the transmission for the second time crossing fingers making sure nothing was leaking. My first time I drove the driveshaft seals too far in the transmission case, so the gear oil came GUSHING out. But so far, so good. I drove it around the block at first, double backed over my tracks to make sure I wasn't leaking anything. Then I took it around town. Tomorow after school I will have a few hours to do more clutch break in/cruisin/pimpin/testing. So far, everything I can tell that I've touched works. Speedometer works, brakes work, clutch work, reverse lights work.
I'm still a little bit nervous though. But so far it feels like I just climbed Mt. Everest. This project was huge, and I certainly learned alot. Now any other mod job I do will probably be childs play. Hopefully everything will stay dry and functional and I will be good to go :-) I will do a complete write up with pics about the install job, the complications and other things in the coming weeks.
Still left to do, get an alignment cause the car pulls left now, no doubt from when taking out the driveshafts. Bleed the clutch, I noticed the slave cylinder was dirty. Change brake pads cause they're almost worn to nothingness.
Impressions of new parts- Quaife differential, hard to tell because I've put probably 10 miles on the clutch so far. I dont want to gun it and ruin my clutch, so its hard to tell. I guess the best test will be to do a burnout and see that it has left two tracks. Polyurethane motor mounts- yeah they vibrate alright at idle. I hope it improves, but something tells me it wont. I'm sure it supresses wheel hop but it sure takes away from refinement. If you dont mind the vibration and want to save money, you can save $200+ by making a solid motor mount like I did before, out of turnbuckles, nuts and bolts. ACT clutch, engagement is VERY quick and low to the floor as others have pointed out. The difference is so drastic that I've stalled many times already.
I've learned quite a few things regarding the internals of this transmission. Even my driving style did nothing to do the synchros, the gears or the other bearings. There was nothing except for that one bearing that was toasted that I mentioned in a previous post. This time, I made absolutely sure that I correctly shimed the bearings so the bearings wont be toast again. Also, I used 85-W90 gear oil for the tranny. It is GL-4 spec, and regular dyno conventional oil. The shifting quality actually feels better now then it did before (I have stock shifter). While the transmission was apart, I totally degreased all the parts to remove all traces of GL-5. I suspect people who complain about a notchy shifter have improper oil in their transmissions. You must use GL-4 spec, NOT the more common GL-5. This is important!
If I can drive 200 miles between now and Friday I'll take the best drag racing. The most unnerving part was filling up the transmission for the second time crossing fingers making sure nothing was leaking. My first time I drove the driveshaft seals too far in the transmission case, so the gear oil came GUSHING out. But so far, so good. I drove it around the block at first, double backed over my tracks to make sure I wasn't leaking anything. Then I took it around town. Tomorow after school I will have a few hours to do more clutch break in/cruisin/pimpin/testing. So far, everything I can tell that I've touched works. Speedometer works, brakes work, clutch work, reverse lights work.
I'm still a little bit nervous though. But so far it feels like I just climbed Mt. Everest. This project was huge, and I certainly learned alot. Now any other mod job I do will probably be childs play. Hopefully everything will stay dry and functional and I will be good to go :-) I will do a complete write up with pics about the install job, the complications and other things in the coming weeks.
11-07-2001, 10:57 PM
#4
Good job Eric, I have a LOT of respect for you doing all that complicated stuff your self. BTW do you still plan on selling the car now? Or was your earlier comment made out of aggrevation? Good luck with the new setup and I would personaly recommend breaking your new clutch in for 300 miles, it won't hurt to do so.
11-08-2001, 07:38 AM
#8
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,150
Re: My Month Long Project is Finally Over
Originally posted by ericdwong
I will do a complete write up with pics about the install job, the complications and other things in the coming weeks.
I will do a complete write up with pics about the install job, the complications and other things in the coming weeks.
11-08-2001, 12:21 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,530
Thanks for your support and kind words. Yea it was quite a project alright, especially considering it was my first time cracking the case. I'd like to thank everybody who helped me on my way. The search function, plus Daniel B Martin, Jeff92SE, Phuong, Frank at www.motorvate.ca, BriGuyMax and I'm sure I'm missing people.
Anyway I got to do some light footed driving today and heres what went through my mind. I'll post about that in another post. But the ACT Clutch along with the poly motor mounts sure make for a stiff ride. I am having trouble going up hills even though I've been driving stick for over a year now. I have to readjust myself to the new clutch since I learned on the stocker. I am looking into trying to make an isolated subframe for the motor to try and tame the vibrations of the polyurethane motor mounts. I'll take a look at my mother's camry v6 and see how its done there.
The good news is I did some cruising today to, from and during school and as of yet, no leaks detectable. I parked my car overnight and nothing on the driveway. I'm going to degrease the engine and tranny since its still pretty gooey after my spill, then I should be able to tell if anything is sweating or now. Still crossing fingers, but so far I consider this project a success.
Anyway I got to do some light footed driving today and heres what went through my mind. I'll post about that in another post. But the ACT Clutch along with the poly motor mounts sure make for a stiff ride. I am having trouble going up hills even though I've been driving stick for over a year now. I have to readjust myself to the new clutch since I learned on the stocker. I am looking into trying to make an isolated subframe for the motor to try and tame the vibrations of the polyurethane motor mounts. I'll take a look at my mother's camry v6 and see how its done there.
The good news is I did some cruising today to, from and during school and as of yet, no leaks detectable. I parked my car overnight and nothing on the driveway. I'm going to degrease the engine and tranny since its still pretty gooey after my spill, then I should be able to tell if anything is sweating or now. Still crossing fingers, but so far I consider this project a success.
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