Motor probs...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
Motor probs...
hey, was wondering if anyone can help me out with a bit of a prob.
still no spark in #2 and #3 cylinders. All other cylinders have spark
Coil has 3 wires, Red, black, trigger/signal
Red im reading battery voltage, black has good ground, and trigger on the 2 bad cylinders are about .3 volts. All the good cylinders read about 3 volts. Now what can cause this?
we've already swapped a good coil in, so its not that, swapped the ECU, contiunity between ECU and coil is good. Crank and cam sensor circuits seem fine as well. Im all out of ideas....can anyone offer some help? so close but yet so far...cant drive the stupid car.
still no spark in #2 and #3 cylinders. All other cylinders have spark
Coil has 3 wires, Red, black, trigger/signal
Red im reading battery voltage, black has good ground, and trigger on the 2 bad cylinders are about .3 volts. All the good cylinders read about 3 volts. Now what can cause this?
we've already swapped a good coil in, so its not that, swapped the ECU, contiunity between ECU and coil is good. Crank and cam sensor circuits seem fine as well. Im all out of ideas....can anyone offer some help? so close but yet so far...cant drive the stupid car.
Re: Motor probs...
Email Mardigrasmax, I know he had a bunch of prob's with this. Good luck man... 

Originally posted by Turbo95Max
hey, was wondering if anyone can help me out with a bit of a prob.
still no spark in #2 and #3 cylinders. All other cylinders have spark
Coil has 3 wires, Red, black, trigger/signal
Red im reading battery voltage, black has good ground, and trigger on the 2 bad cylinders are about .3 volts. All the good cylinders read about 3 volts. Now what can cause this?
we've already swapped a good coil in, so its not that, swapped the ECU, contiunity between ECU and coil is good. Crank and cam sensor circuits seem fine as well. Im all out of ideas....can anyone offer some help? so close but yet so far...cant drive the stupid car.
hey, was wondering if anyone can help me out with a bit of a prob.
still no spark in #2 and #3 cylinders. All other cylinders have spark
Coil has 3 wires, Red, black, trigger/signal
Red im reading battery voltage, black has good ground, and trigger on the 2 bad cylinders are about .3 volts. All the good cylinders read about 3 volts. Now what can cause this?
we've already swapped a good coil in, so its not that, swapped the ECU, contiunity between ECU and coil is good. Crank and cam sensor circuits seem fine as well. Im all out of ideas....can anyone offer some help? so close but yet so far...cant drive the stupid car.
Perhaps the connectors on #2 & #3 harness connectors are not getting good contact?
Perhaps the ECU connections are not getting good contact?
Do you have access to an OBDII scan tool to check the timing signals? And look for stored codes that havent tripped a check light yet?
Worst case your nissan dealer can hook it up the the consult machine to diagnose it.
Did you check the cam timing marks to be sure it was all lined up properly?
Perhaps the ECU connections are not getting good contact?
Do you have access to an OBDII scan tool to check the timing signals? And look for stored codes that havent tripped a check light yet?
Worst case your nissan dealer can hook it up the the consult machine to diagnose it.
Did you check the cam timing marks to be sure it was all lined up properly?
If you go and talk to the Shop Forman and explain you just want help to diagnose it on the consult machine and you will do the repairs, I dont see why not. My local dealer said they would have done it for me when I had my problems.
Originally posted by Evil Yak
haha u sure the nissan dealer will even touch turbo's car?
we were discussing it yesterday, i wonder if theres somebody
we could drop the car off to and have them diagnose it for us...
haha u sure the nissan dealer will even touch turbo's car?
we were discussing it yesterday, i wonder if theres somebody
we could drop the car off to and have them diagnose it for us...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
thanks for the suggestions
well, my friend's shop has a consult, so i can always go there, i have a SnapOn Diagnostic scan tool that i been using.
Not getting good contact could be a possible cause, but when we checked voltage directly out of the ECU it still read .3 volts on the bad cylinders. What can cause low voltage on #2 and #3 only? cant figure it out...
well, my friend's shop has a consult, so i can always go there, i have a SnapOn Diagnostic scan tool that i been using.
Not getting good contact could be a possible cause, but when we checked voltage directly out of the ECU it still read .3 volts on the bad cylinders. What can cause low voltage on #2 and #3 only? cant figure it out...
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
thanks for the suggestions
well, my friend's shop has a consult, so i can always go there, i have a SnapOn Diagnostic scan tool that i been using.
Not getting good contact could be a possible cause, but when we checked voltage directly out of the ECU it still read .3 volts on the bad cylinders. What can cause low voltage on #2 and #3 only? cant figure it out...
thanks for the suggestions
well, my friend's shop has a consult, so i can always go there, i have a SnapOn Diagnostic scan tool that i been using.
Not getting good contact could be a possible cause, but when we checked voltage directly out of the ECU it still read .3 volts on the bad cylinders. What can cause low voltage on #2 and #3 only? cant figure it out...
1) Try the LED test light thing and see what you get, my bet is weak and/or eratic flickering.
2) Pull off the front valve cover and look to be sure the front cam is in the right spot for TDC on the motor, the front cam has the CAM timing sensore marks attached to it. If its not aligned properly the timing marks are off between the cam sprocket and crank sproket and the sensor signals are out of phase. If you have a spare motor or head to compare the positions for TDC to it helps, the cam sprocket has a mark on ot that shows TDC for the cam. Sounds like this is the problem. To fix it the timing cover has to come off

3) if that still isn't it check for stored codes
4) consult time
5) sell it to me
Good luck!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
doesnt sound like good news for me.....wanna make a trade Matt?
give me a tiny bit of cash and a stock motor and this built motor is yours...sound good?
give me a tiny bit of cash and a stock motor and this built motor is yours...sound good?
Yea it does sound good, say fi dolla and a stocker?
But I cant do that to ya.
Ya gotta fix it Matthel, just shake off the blues and do it. Its just some time and labor. You got some of that? Push through!!!
But I cant do that to ya.

Ya gotta fix it Matthel, just shake off the blues and do it. Its just some time and labor. You got some of that? Push through!!!
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
doesnt sound like good news for me.....wanna make a trade Matt?
give me a tiny bit of cash and a stock motor and this built motor is yours...sound good?
doesnt sound like good news for me.....wanna make a trade Matt?
give me a tiny bit of cash and a stock motor and this built motor is yours...sound good?
You can pull the codes WITHOUT the consult. If there is a code, and your check engine light is not on, just go thru the motions as if your check engine light is on. If there's a code stored, the MIL will blink it at you.
DW
DW
Consult does more than just pulls codes.
Originally posted by dwapenyi
You can pull the codes WITHOUT the consult. If there is a code, and your check engine light is not on, just go thru the motions as if your check engine light is on. If there's a code stored, the MIL will blink it at you.
DW
You can pull the codes WITHOUT the consult. If there is a code, and your check engine light is not on, just go thru the motions as if your check engine light is on. If there's a code stored, the MIL will blink it at you.
DW
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