Powdercoating brake calipers
12-04-2009, 06:25 AM
#1
Powdercoating brake calipers
Well I have a dilema. I bought 2 wilwood calipers from 2 different owners. However when they arrived the color isnt a perfect match and the logo on the front is different. So I was thinking about sending them to powdercoating and then put 2 new logo's on them.
Positives? Negatives?
thanks
Positives? Negatives?
thanks
12-04-2009, 06:40 AM
#3
So since you state that most colored calipers are powdercoated. Do they powdercoat them fully disassembled meaning piston removed and the body split in half? Basically I am worried because I never sent anything out to get powdercoated before and wanted to get opinions. And I posted it here because imo this is where all brake questions are at.
12-04-2009, 08:41 AM
#6
Well thats the thing. I have rebuilt 300zx calipers before and ordered a rebuild kit that included seals and etc. However with these wilwood calipers, there are no seals. The piston are just in the body. So there is nothing to rebuild on them. My worry is focused more on the pistons and removing and instaling them as well as preventing the powder get where the fluid is. If these calipers were cheap i wouldn't worry as much. But at $500 per side as retail, im just trying to be cautious.
12-04-2009, 09:49 AM
#7
Wilwood website mentions bore seals, btw.
What model of caliper are you using?
12-04-2009, 10:56 AM
#9
I have not taken the calipers apart yet. But just by looking at it, there are no visible seals. However like it was stated there is a bore seal because I did some research and the the only rebuild kit that wilwood sells for my caliper is a kit full of seals. My next question though is can I reuse the seals since the calipers are brand new?
The caliper itself is a FSL (Forged superlite) 6 piston that is used on the wilwood 350z/g35 kits.
I just wish I did not have to take the pistons out. I'll upload some pics just for ****s and gigles though of the calipers
The caliper itself is a FSL (Forged superlite) 6 piston that is used on the wilwood 350z/g35 kits.
I just wish I did not have to take the pistons out. I'll upload some pics just for ****s and gigles though of the calipers
12-04-2009, 11:28 AM
#11
Pretty easy research:
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-FSL/index.asp
"Other standard Wilwood features include high-temperature, square faced o-ring seals for positive sealing, controlled piston retraction, and long service life in high heat conditions."
Cheers.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-FSL/index.asp
"Other standard Wilwood features include high-temperature, square faced o-ring seals for positive sealing, controlled piston retraction, and long service life in high heat conditions."
Cheers.
12-18-2009, 10:54 AM
#14
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if I were you, I'd just get a pair of matching Wilwood stickers and put them on so that the lettering is the same. The color difference might be obvious when you see them right next to each other, but being that they're on opposite sides of the car, I don't think anyone would ever notice if one was a slightly different shade of red than the other once installed.
Seems like a lot of work and money for a minor improvement, but that's just IMO.
But yea, you gotta take them apart for powercoating. I once asked a guy at a powdercoating shop if I drove up to him, put my car on jackstands in the parking lot, and removed the wheels, could he powercoat them that same day without having to get the tires remounted. He pretty much just laughed. They like sandblast them then powercoat them then bake them and it's a pretty serious undertaking that rubber won't survive.
Seems like a lot of work and money for a minor improvement, but that's just IMO.
But yea, you gotta take them apart for powercoating. I once asked a guy at a powdercoating shop if I drove up to him, put my car on jackstands in the parking lot, and removed the wheels, could he powercoat them that same day without having to get the tires remounted. He pretty much just laughed. They like sandblast them then powercoat them then bake them and it's a pretty serious undertaking that rubber won't survive.
12-19-2009, 01:45 AM
#15
High-temp rattle can paint ftw.
OP: If you're seriously worried, I'd just hit them with a wire brush/sandpaper and throw a few nice coats of spray paint over them, followed by some clear-coat. Worked great for my OEM calipers. Then you can customize them to your liking. Maybe throw some Nismo stickers on them.
Powdercoating seems a bit much...especially on such nice, new-looking calipers. IMO, I'd just fill in the one caliper's lettering with white and be done with it.
OP: If you're seriously worried, I'd just hit them with a wire brush/sandpaper and throw a few nice coats of spray paint over them, followed by some clear-coat. Worked great for my OEM calipers. Then you can customize them to your liking. Maybe throw some Nismo stickers on them.
Powdercoating seems a bit much...especially on such nice, new-looking calipers. IMO, I'd just fill in the one caliper's lettering with white and be done with it.
12-19-2009, 07:20 AM
#16
12-20-2009, 04:13 PM
#17
12-20-2009, 08:22 PM
#18
1. NOT Advanced. Belongs in general.
2. The price of having them redone is going to be pretty significant. you'd have been better off buying a pair of new calipers.
3. If you really thought these calipers don't have seals just because you don't see dust boots, then please take your car to a real mechanic for any real work.
4. I hope there's 4 bleeder screws on the caliper in the left of the pic. Otherwise you screwed something up.
5. Just have the white lettering painted on the left caliper. it'll be MUCH cheaper and easier in the long run.
6. the seals in a brake caliper are rated for about twice the temp of what they would get in the powdercoating oven. (You bake powdercoats at 300-400F for 15 minutes. Brake fluid boils at 500F+ (the good stuff at 600F), and the seals in the calipers can handle that without problems for extended periods of time- especially in a racing caliper designed for high temps.
2. The price of having them redone is going to be pretty significant. you'd have been better off buying a pair of new calipers.
3. If you really thought these calipers don't have seals just because you don't see dust boots, then please take your car to a real mechanic for any real work.
4. I hope there's 4 bleeder screws on the caliper in the left of the pic. Otherwise you screwed something up.
5. Just have the white lettering painted on the left caliper. it'll be MUCH cheaper and easier in the long run.
6. the seals in a brake caliper are rated for about twice the temp of what they would get in the powdercoating oven. (You bake powdercoats at 300-400F for 15 minutes. Brake fluid boils at 500F+ (the good stuff at 600F), and the seals in the calipers can handle that without problems for extended periods of time- especially in a racing caliper designed for high temps.
12-20-2009, 08:34 PM
#19
the calipers have different sized pots in them, but the way the bleeders are setup, those both belong on the same side...
yet, one would have the larger calipers on the top and the other would have them on the bottom
12-22-2009, 07:38 AM
#20
1. NOT Advanced. Belongs in general.
2. The price of having them redone is going to be pretty significant. you'd have been better off buying a pair of new calipers.
3. If you really thought these calipers don't have seals just because you don't see dust boots, then please take your car to a real mechanic for any real work.
4. I hope there's 4 bleeder screws on the caliper in the left of the pic. Otherwise you screwed something up.
5. Just have the white lettering painted on the left caliper. it'll be MUCH cheaper and easier in the long run.
6. the seals in a brake caliper are rated for about twice the temp of what they would get in the powdercoating oven. (You bake powdercoats at 300-400F for 15 minutes. Brake fluid boils at 500F+ (the good stuff at 600F), and the seals in the calipers can handle that without problems for extended periods of time- especially in a racing caliper designed for high temps.
2. The price of having them redone is going to be pretty significant. you'd have been better off buying a pair of new calipers.
3. If you really thought these calipers don't have seals just because you don't see dust boots, then please take your car to a real mechanic for any real work.
4. I hope there's 4 bleeder screws on the caliper in the left of the pic. Otherwise you screwed something up.
5. Just have the white lettering painted on the left caliper. it'll be MUCH cheaper and easier in the long run.
6. the seals in a brake caliper are rated for about twice the temp of what they would get in the powdercoating oven. (You bake powdercoats at 300-400F for 15 minutes. Brake fluid boils at 500F+ (the good stuff at 600F), and the seals in the calipers can handle that without problems for extended periods of time- especially in a racing caliper designed for high temps.
3) I never stated that they do not have seals. What I did state was there was no visible seals for example like on the 300zx calipers. And i will just laught at the second part of that statement of yours.
4) I did not screw anything up. The calipers came in that way. And if you would have looked at the pictures like a real mechanic
you would have noticed that each caliper has 2 bleeding screws which are removable and can be swapped on the caliper so they point up. 5) Painting is an option.
6) You made a valid point there that I do agree with however most powdercoating places require removal of them. I learned that when I called a couple of shops.
Basically a MOD can lock this thread up....
12-22-2009, 09:01 PM
#21
2. price of two "used" calipers + powdercoating + rebuild kit + labor time = ????? It's probably close to the price of a new caliper.
2a. Really you only need one new caliper. buy another from Wilwood that matches one of the ones you have, then sell the other on ebay for what you paid for it (maybe more).
3. I'll quote it for you......
4. You screwed up buying the calipers if the one on the left doesn't have 4 bleeder screws. The older forged superlites (like the one on the right) used a crossover tube in them to move fluid across the body.
Many of their calipers have a passthrough inside the caliper (like 300ZX calipers) and have four bleeder screws. This keeps people from having to purchase a front/rear/left/right mount caliper. one caliper can be used for multiple positions on the car, so Wilwood can drastically cut down on their parts inventory and race teams can cut down on their spares as well.
If you want to move that crossover tube, good luck on getting it out without damaging the caliper. takes a special wrench to get to those flare nuts due to the close fittment to the caliper. Then add in the hassles of dealing with all the black RTV.
I rebuilt a pair of mine with the crossover tube a few years ago and it was a beyotch. When I was done, I decided I'd rather just buy a new caliper next time.
6. Powdercoating places don't always know what may or may not work. They would prefer that you break it all down and hand them two shiny pieces of metal, but it's not necessary.
Just trying to offer the advice of someone that's been in your same position on the same brand of calipers. When all was said and done, I found it easier to just buy a new one from wilwood that was assembled how I wanted it.
2a. Really you only need one new caliper. buy another from Wilwood that matches one of the ones you have, then sell the other on ebay for what you paid for it (maybe more).
3. I'll quote it for you......
However with these wilwood calipers, there are no seals. The piston are just in the body. So there is nothing to rebuild on them. My worry is focused more on the pistons and removing and instaling them as well as preventing the powder get where the fluid is.
Many of their calipers have a passthrough inside the caliper (like 300ZX calipers) and have four bleeder screws. This keeps people from having to purchase a front/rear/left/right mount caliper. one caliper can be used for multiple positions on the car, so Wilwood can drastically cut down on their parts inventory and race teams can cut down on their spares as well.
If you want to move that crossover tube, good luck on getting it out without damaging the caliper. takes a special wrench to get to those flare nuts due to the close fittment to the caliper. Then add in the hassles of dealing with all the black RTV.
I rebuilt a pair of mine with the crossover tube a few years ago and it was a beyotch. When I was done, I decided I'd rather just buy a new caliper next time.
6. Powdercoating places don't always know what may or may not work. They would prefer that you break it all down and hand them two shiny pieces of metal, but it's not necessary.
Just trying to offer the advice of someone that's been in your same position on the same brand of calipers. When all was said and done, I found it easier to just buy a new one from wilwood that was assembled how I wanted it.
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