I bought primer, clearcoat and LS6/Concord Mist, all in 12.5 oz cans. Thats the size of a can of Rustolium or Krylon. If I was going to buy a Stillen lip, this is they route I would go plus I will have paint left over to paint ther parts like my calipers, mudguards, etc. There are a lot of ideas to be had with having this touchup paint in a spray can. I am done with brushes.

PaintScratch

 

Very cool site!

 

Got mine yesterday. I got 2 cans each of the base + mid + clearcoat. BTW, your thoughts mirror mine exactly!

 

Cool.

 

Deezo....you think one can of paint is enough to paint the whole lip? dont u need to put couple of coats on it and also i though you need flex paint to paint the lip so it doesnt crack like nissan's paint. what u think?...

 

wow
this idea should really save some money.
no more body shops huh?
how much do bodyshops charges for painting?
ex. HOOD?

 

You are correct on all counts. If you don't add some flex agent to your front pieces(bumper, spoiler etc..) paint chip city.

Even on a small lip for the 4-gens, It's probably gonna take at least 3-4 cans. But the thing is spray can's spray pattern sucks. Hard to get consistent and even.

I would say you could paint small stuff like mirrors and such though.

 

Well, they sell flex paint and thats what I ordered. The primer, the clear and color, all flex.

As far as how much you'll use, it depends how much you waste. I can't see you killing one of these cans on a lip because the cans are pretty big.

 

Can i ask u, how much did it cost for all these with shipping? thanx

 

LS6/Touch up in a can was $29.95
Primer is.................$15.00
Clearcoat is..............$15.00

Total is..................$47.15

I forget what the shipping was but I know it was UPS Ground.

 

Not sure. I just had some work done to my car. Had to get the jack points fixed on both sides of my car. I found a good neighborhood shop and the owner charged me $135 to straighten out the jack points and paint it. It came out perfect.

A hood shouldn't cost you much. Ask around.

 

just a word of caution..if you're not knowledgable with painting and etc it's best you don't try to paint your car like this.
prep work is very important.

deezo make sure you use a flex primer also.

 

As posted earlier by deezo

 

If I wanted to paint my tail lights (which I am going to do), would I need to put on primer, then the paint, then the clear coat? Do I have to put primer on plastic? How many coats of each should I use? Thanks, I am trying to save money by not going to a body shop.

 

ARE U DOING THEM ON ALTEZZAS?!?!??!?!?!

 

Need a little more info one what your trying to do.

 

Just tested the paint on a piece of paper and it looks good.

 

Hellz no!!! I have the stock 2000 GLE lights. I am going to paint the area around the actual lights body color. If you know the SE tail lights, they are black around the edges. I am going to have that area body color (Gray Lustre). I will find a picture.

 

I don't want to give you the wrrong information on doing this but if you use the flex primer, it will make the color coat stick better. There are guys that have done it but I am not sure if they sanded the area they wanted to paint, which would aslo help the paint stick. I think if you do all of the steps, it will look really good.

 

Here is the pic, but my car is Gray Lustre. Just an idea of what it will look like...

 

I say talk to the fellas that have done it and then go for it. It will look good.

 

I have posted about it twice, and no one that has done it actually responded.

 

Well do this (assuming the lights are already off of the car):

1.Wash the assembly with dish washing liquid to get the oil and debris off then dry thoroughly
2.Use a fine grit sandpaper (1500 grit would be good) to sand the area to be painted.
3.Wash and dry again

4.Mask with automotive quality masking tape to cover the areas not to be painted. Automotive tape will prevent the paint from running under the tape leaving an uneven paint line. Use a blade to cut the tape evenly.

This is actually from Paintscratch's website and I would follow these directions:

Primer
If you have bare metal from sanding the area due to rust or the chip went all the way to the metal, clean the area of all dust with a tack rag and apply primer to the scratched or chipped area. Let the primer dry and lightly sand with #600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Make sure you let the primer dry for 30 minutes to one hour before applying the color coat.

Applying the Color Coat
Apply several thin coats of paint to build up the chip to the same depth as the surrounding surface. Dab at the scratch using light coats of paint. Let it dry for ten to twenty minutes between coats. You may sand lightly with 1000 grit sandpaper between coats. However, DO NOT SAND THE FINAL COAT OF COLOR. Let the paint dry at least one hour and not more than 24 hours before applying the clearcoat.

Clearcoat
All colors require clearcoat to make the color shine. Even if your car was originally single stage paint, all new paint must be produced in a basecoat/clearcoat combination due to environmental regulations. The color match will still be just as good as the original paint. The basecoat contains the color and the clearcoat makes them shine.

Apply several thin coats of the clearcoat, drying for ten to twenty minutes between each coat. You may sand the clearcoat to remove imperfections, but wait at least 24 hours after applying the final coat. Use 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and wet sand the area smooth using plenty of water. Let the area dry and use a good quality automotive rubbing compound to polish the area.

 

who is willing to try this out in altezzas?

 

Thanks a whole lot deezo. You were a great help!!

 

No prob.

 

I will let you know how everyhting went once everything is done.