mb1

iTrader: (2)

My next project is to paint my valve cover. I just finished aplying a coat of primer on it, the same one I used on my center caps on my wheels. When I went to paint my center cap(I primered it yesterday), I sprayed it, and the paint still didn't want to go on evenly. It would try to bead up. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. My question is: will my valve cover do the same thing, or is it due to the kind of plastic my center caps are? Why does the paint bead up?

95GreenGLE

If the primer did not bead up then the paint should not bead up unless you are using cheap spraypaint or not putting the correct bonding agent in with the paint before you spray it. I painted my valve cover with the same mixture i used on my stillen lip. The mixture consisted of BASE+URETHANE CLEAR+HARDENER in the ammounts suggested on the paint sheet i picked up at the same store i purchased the paint from. If there is oil on it, it will not stick. I still do not see why the paint would bead if the primer went on good. remember, sand the primer before you paint it, with 320-to-400 grit wet/dry sand paper. 400 is kind of pushing it, i would use the 320 if you could. The paint will bond well if you did.

For maximum shine after you paint it, wetsand with 1500 grit then 2000 grit, then buff. looks almost as good as clearcoat, unless you do use clear coat.

Hope this helps, if you need any more tips you can PM, IM, or Email me, or just respond to this.

-Barto

mb1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, most of what you said went way over my head. I began painting my cover. I am using a spray paint can I found in my dads tool shed. Its glossy apple red paint. I have put about three coats on and I will let it dry till tommorow. I did not sand the primer because it did not say to. What is wetsanding?

Bman

Wet sanding is when you use a wet/dry type sandpaper (that won't disintegrate in water) and sand the surface while it's wet. You can dip the paper in a bucket of water as you go, but just start everything wet and keep it wet as you sand. I think you should just always assume "sanding" for paintwork always implies "wet".

I'm not sure what you mean by the paint "beading up", but do you mean it looks all wrinkled and uneven, almost exactly like the peel of an orange? If so, then this is called orange peel....

Unfortunately I can never remember what causes orange peel (even though I'm sure I read why at least half a dozen times)... It's kind of been the bane of my existance. It's either temperature, or solvent probs, or both...? (ARRGH!) Anyway, if this is all that's happened then I believe you can just keep painting and lightly (wet) sanding between coats, then dealing with it at the end with a good sanding (to flatten it) and polishing the heck out of it.


If the paint is actually beading up like water on a waxed car though, it probably has to do with incompatable chemicals/finishes or something, like 95greengle said (and surface prep, dirt?).

gregulator

hmmm, I don't know if the paint from dad's tool shed is such a good idea seeing as the valve cover gets nice and hot under the hood. You should use some high temperature paint for this application. I am not sure what happens when you dont, but I think crappy results would be in order, such as bubbling/flaking/cracking. Just lettin ya know. The kind of paint you are looking for is easily found at an automotive store. There should be rows upon rows of things like engine enamels etc.

mb1

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I thought about that too, but anytime I touch the cover, It is never more then warm. I will use this paint, and if it starts deforming I can always repaint it.

The paint did look like an orange on the center cap, but it went on the cover just fine. Thanks for the help!