Hey everyone, I'm 19. My mom owns a Nissan Altima but I want a Maxima. I'm working two jobs this summer and I also am waiting for my tax returns. That's about two months and a few weeks of savings with a $1,000 starting point and two incomes. I'm hoping to buy a 5th or 4th gen Maxima manual. I was reading around the site for a while now and I'm excited so I thought I'd introduce myself and if anyone has any tips or advice I should know before I get my Maxima and stuff. Thanks!

Edit: I'll be buying the car after summer right before the Fall semseter starts in college which around early August.

 

If you live up north in the snow belt, check the front crossmember (below the radiator)to see if it is rotting out. If you have an OBD code reader, take it with you and see if there are any codes. Don't rely on there being a light bulb in the check engine idiot light. If you don't have one, drive the car to an auto parts store and ask them to check the codes. But if you live in Calif, it is illegal for a parts store to do that.

If you can, arrange for a mechanic to inspect the car. You will have to pay for the mechanic's time, but this really is a good way to get yourself a trouble-free car.

 

Yeah, I plan on having a personal mechanic by then, I'm still searching around to find one but I'm definitely going to bring him when I get my car. I live in Maryland by the way.

 

Welcome!

If you have, say, 5 grand as total budget, look for a car in the 3500 to 4000 dollar range. That extra difference will be the "maintenance fund". Trust me. Don't max out your budget buying the car. You'll need tires, fluid changes, etc...

 

Then that means your car will be one of the very fastest out there.

 

@Amerikaner83 That's good to know, I was definitely planning on spending my last towards my car, lol.

@NmexMAX What makes you say that?

 

Jokes lol

 

Ohh ok, lol. So what are the common problems that occur in 4th or 5th gen Maximas that I should look out for? I'm going to aim for one around 100k miles.

 

Finding a 4th with 100k is gonna be tough...the NEWEST 4th gens are 13 years old. Average miles driven per year is around 15k. I bought mine with 141k and that is low mileage.

Don't dismiss a max with 150k or more on the clock. They'll last a long long time.


Pay special attention to rust, living in the NE. Rusted radiator supports are very common. Check for leaks from the rear main seal if the car's an auto.

If going 5th gen, and thinking the 3.5 motor, be aware they can be oil burners. Look around the 5th gen forums for more info on early VQ35DE oil burning issues.


I know of the "spend all I have on the car" from firsthand experience. ALWAYS keep a reserve. My 99 I bought for 2700 bucks, and I had extra cash that I immediately used on tires and cv axle replacement and fluid flushes. Plus, easier to negotiate down on a car that needs all that crap done as opposed to one that doesn't, y'know?

 

I understand what your saying. I am a bit skeptical of a car that has around 200k miles on it though, I saw a guy selling a Maxima with 200k miles on here, it looked nice but that mileage made me a bit worried.

 

The VQ motor in the 4th is bulletproof. In the 5th (and in some 99s) you've got potential issues with the coil packs with the VQ30 and oil burning with the early VQ35s.

I understand the skepticism with buying a car with 200k on it already, trust me. When I was researching my decision on what car to buy I knew nothing about maxima and the VQ. Researching made my decision for me. These motors go 300k easy.

Its all in how it was taken care of by the previous owner(s). No matter what gen you go with, don't buy a car from a kid under 25, for the most part they beat their cars to high heaven. I say that as a 29 year-old Plus, most kids rice out their cars and you don't wanna deal with that. Although, the chances of a riced out max are waay smaller than if you were looking at civic/accord/integra/legend...

Like mentioned earlier, find yourself a shop that you trust. Make your purchase contingent upon a successful vehicle inspection at your mechanic's shop. Sure, a good inspection will run you 100 to 150 bucks, but its well worth it. I took 2 different cars to get inspected, only to find out that they needed (each) upwards of 1500 bucks in immediate repairs. No thank you. The third inspection was actually done for free since I think he felt sorry for me on the first two.

I'll spend 100 bucks to save over a grand all day.

Plus, when you have a relationship with a shop like that, you'll find that they are less likely to jerk you around on stuff and will let you just pick their brains. Its cool. You and your mechanic both being on the same page with your car is a wonderful thing.

 

Wow, thanks for the information. So how much on average do coil packs cost to repair on the VQ30 models? I completely understand about buying form a seller under 25 and I will definitely take it to a mechanic to get it inspected before buying the vehicle.

 

I"m not sure, since I have *yet* to have coil pack issues, but I know that if you do, get OEM. None of that autozone/oreilly crap, they tend to throw a code. OEM coils are usually in junkyards or here in the classifieds section of the .org

And coil packs don't get repaired, they get replaced. Usually no need to buy all 6 @ once, just need to do whichever one (or two) is bad.

 

Alright well I'll be sure to come here first to find my car. 4th or 5th generation Maxima SE will be mines! I'm going to spend more money in it as time goes on, upgraded sound system (no weak speakers and overpowering bass), navigation system, tints, rims, intake & exhaust. I refuse to drive it hard though, I understand feeling spirited sometimes but I hate when young people have cars and slam on brakes right before a corner and fly over speed bumps and tailgate cars like they won't get into an accident.

 

"drive it like you bought it"

smart move

 

Yeah, I drive my mom and grandmas car like they would want it to be driven, cars aren't indispensable. Does anyone know how hard it is to put in those halo headlights? I want to get some of those too when I get my car but all the DIY I'd be too worried I'll break something to try.

 

Chrisman287 does projector retrofits. Them or stock, IMO.

And good call on the SE, stiffer suspension and best trim level overall. If you are going to upgrade the sound, see if you can get a NON-bose car. If you upgrade on a bose you need to basically put all new speakers and crap in, including all new wiring...not your average HU replacement, y'know?

 

I understand, but don't most SEs come with BOSE?

 

The only model to have Bose standard is the GLE (luxury model). But many times the factory will put in the optional Bose to get more profit off the car when it was sold new. As such, I don't know if anyone on the org can really answer that question.

 

my SE came without Bose. SE is the middle, some have leather some don't. some have sunroof some don't. some have bose, some don't

 

I understand. Well looks like I have a lot to look forward to. Hows you all insurance looking? Full or liability? Your age?

 

full, no doubt. I'm 29, and plan on keeping it until I at least double her mileage. Best car I've ever owned.

 

So how much is your insurance every six months? My mom is saying when I get mines she'll pay for liability but she refuses to get full but that doesn't quite sit well with me.