Problems from an incorrect spring install??
#1
Problems from an incorrect spring install??
I have a friend with a 98SE which had eibach springs installed along with Koni's about 3months ago. He now gets a clunk when pulling away from a curb and turning. One thing that we thing may be wrong is the springs were installed upside-down with the part# and eibach also upside-down. My question is what kind of bad things can happen from this situation?
We have checked the front insert bolt and it is very tight... we also checked all of the top bolts and they are also tight... the sound just started about 2 weeks ago and is getting more pronounced with time...
We have checked the front insert bolt and it is very tight... we also checked all of the top bolts and they are also tight... the sound just started about 2 weeks ago and is getting more pronounced with time...
#2
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Have you read this thread? There's some excellent information regarding noise issues with lowering springs.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=72678
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=72678
#3
#4
Before jumping to conclusions about metal against metal noise, check to make sure the spring is properly seated on the strut. This is easily done by removing the wheel and looking at the lower strut mount and make sure the spring end follows the indentation on the mount.
Also, a clunk noise might be the result of a bolt sticking out from the body of the car rubbing on the spring. That was what happened to me. I removed the bolt (forgot what it was holding onto), added a washer, and put it back in. No more rubbing. If you get a clunk noise while turning the steering wheel, it's the strut bearings. If you do the spring wire wrap, you might as well replace the strut bearings as well.
Also, you need to check the torque of the mounting bolts. Make sure they are torqued to specs, not just "tight", since tight generally means a firm tug or push, which is about 40 lb ft. The lower suspension bolts require 80-100 lb ft, the strut mounting bolts (3) require 29-40 lb ft, and the center strut bolt requires around 50 lb ft.
Also, a clunk noise might be the result of a bolt sticking out from the body of the car rubbing on the spring. That was what happened to me. I removed the bolt (forgot what it was holding onto), added a washer, and put it back in. No more rubbing. If you get a clunk noise while turning the steering wheel, it's the strut bearings. If you do the spring wire wrap, you might as well replace the strut bearings as well.
Also, you need to check the torque of the mounting bolts. Make sure they are torqued to specs, not just "tight", since tight generally means a firm tug or push, which is about 40 lb ft. The lower suspension bolts require 80-100 lb ft, the strut mounting bolts (3) require 29-40 lb ft, and the center strut bolt requires around 50 lb ft.
#5
Thank you for all the info... I had been following the threads you all listed already but we are taking his in next week to my friends shop to look them over. I will be checking all of the items above for problems. Also I jacked the back of the car up and looked at the rear springs and the one on the drivers side looked like it was off the mount at the top... and the black rubber ring above the spring at the top was kind of bulging out nearest to the tire side
But I am still wondering what the side effects are of having the springs mounted upside-down.
Also do all four struts have bearings? and how do I know if they are bad?
Anyway thanx again for some great info!
That is why I love you guys.
But I am still wondering what the side effects are of having the springs mounted upside-down.
Also do all four struts have bearings? and how do I know if they are bad?
Anyway thanx again for some great info!
That is why I love you guys.
#6
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally posted by DaEnigma
Also I jacked the back of the car up and looked at the rear springs and the one on the drivers side looked like it was off the mount at the top... and the black rubber ring above the spring at the top was kind of bulging out nearest to the tire side
Also I jacked the back of the car up and looked at the rear springs and the one on the drivers side looked like it was off the mount at the top... and the black rubber ring above the spring at the top was kind of bulging out nearest to the tire side
But I am still wondering what the side effects are of having the springs mounted upside-down.
Also do all four struts have bearings? and how do I know if they are bad?
Anyway thanx again for some great info!
That is why I love you guys.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Problems from an incorrect spring install??
Originally posted by DaEnigma
I have a friend with a 98SE which had eibach springs installed along with Koni's about 3months ago. He now gets a clunk when pulling away from a curb and turning. One thing that we thing may be wrong is the springs were installed upside-down with the part# and eibach also upside-down. My question is what kind of bad things can happen from this situation?
We have checked the front insert bolt and it is very tight... we also checked all of the top bolts and they are also tight... the sound just started about 2 weeks ago and is getting more pronounced with time...
I have a friend with a 98SE which had eibach springs installed along with Koni's about 3months ago. He now gets a clunk when pulling away from a curb and turning. One thing that we thing may be wrong is the springs were installed upside-down with the part# and eibach also upside-down. My question is what kind of bad things can happen from this situation?
We have checked the front insert bolt and it is very tight... we also checked all of the top bolts and they are also tight... the sound just started about 2 weeks ago and is getting more pronounced with time...
#8
Re: Re: Problems from an incorrect spring install??
Originally posted by BlkCat
I have the same shock/spring combo too. Yep its the front strut bearings. My clunking only happens when I'm turning left on a bumpy intersection and its from my front right strut.
I have the same shock/spring combo too. Yep its the front strut bearings. My clunking only happens when I'm turning left on a bumpy intersection and its from my front right strut.
#9
Originally posted by Eric L.
Before jumping to conclusions about metal against metal noise, check to make sure the spring is properly seated on the strut. This is easily done by removing the wheel and looking at the lower strut mount and make sure the spring end follows the indentation on the mount.
Also, a clunk noise might be the result of a bolt sticking out from the body of the car rubbing on the spring. That was what happened to me. I removed the bolt (forgot what it was holding onto), added a washer, and put it back in. No more rubbing. If you get a clunk noise while turning the steering wheel, it's the strut bearings. If you do the spring wire wrap, you might as well replace the strut bearings as well.
Also, you need to check the torque of the mounting bolts. Make sure they are torqued to specs, not just "tight", since tight generally means a firm tug or push, which is about 40 lb ft. The lower suspension bolts require 80-100 lb ft, the strut mounting bolts (3) require 29-40 lb ft, and the center strut bolt requires around 50 lb ft.
Before jumping to conclusions about metal against metal noise, check to make sure the spring is properly seated on the strut. This is easily done by removing the wheel and looking at the lower strut mount and make sure the spring end follows the indentation on the mount.
Also, a clunk noise might be the result of a bolt sticking out from the body of the car rubbing on the spring. That was what happened to me. I removed the bolt (forgot what it was holding onto), added a washer, and put it back in. No more rubbing. If you get a clunk noise while turning the steering wheel, it's the strut bearings. If you do the spring wire wrap, you might as well replace the strut bearings as well.
Also, you need to check the torque of the mounting bolts. Make sure they are torqued to specs, not just "tight", since tight generally means a firm tug or push, which is about 40 lb ft. The lower suspension bolts require 80-100 lb ft, the strut mounting bolts (3) require 29-40 lb ft, and the center strut bolt requires around 50 lb ft.
#10
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
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This might be your problem right here
I had this problem twice pop your hood and check the nut that holds the spring together it might have came loose you ll get a clunk when you come off the sidewalk. Use a bit of silicone to secure it that was my last problem. The first problem that I first had was that the bottom Bolt came loose but Once again a little silcone on the thread and it will secure it. And yes you can remove the bolts and nuts no problem just use a little bit.
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