RussMaxManiac

http://www.5thgenmaximas.com/russmaxmaniac/videos/

The MOV files are me with my Sentra at the track working it out! I loved LSD, I just shoot off the line hard.

Also the DSC is a video of MAXIMUS97 running a Impala SS in Austin that had chip, exhaust and intake done. Maximus lost by a hair and he is a auto 4th gen with full bolt ons.

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

any CL-S videos?

RussMaxManiac

No, I almost had one, but couldn't keepo the camera sitting on the dash when I hit it. lol

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

thats too bad

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

what kinda runs were you getting with the sentra?

RussMaxManiac

15.8 was the best I could muster for stock out of her....2.2 60s

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

sweet

Bags

iTrader: (3)

FROM CHESTONS SITE

How to build an In-Car Camera Mount
WARNING: These are JUST directions. I am NOT liable if you mess up your car. Use common sense when attempting this or ANY mod. Always use caution when it comes tools that use electricity. WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!

THESE DIRECTIONS ARE FOR THE PROTOTYPE. I AM NOT FINSHED





Tools needed: 10 foot long, 1 inch diameter, aluminum/mild steel electrical pipe, 1 inch diameter pipe bender (or a good pair of shoes and a mallet), hacksaw, I/O Port Racing Camera Mount (buy it here), aluminum sheeting, 4 bolts with matching nylon lock nuts, drill

1 Cut the Pipe to 6 foot length. We're going to make a U shaped bar. The distance from the base of the Bpillar to Bpillar is 55.5 inches. so the overall length of the U has to be in and around 55.5 inches long.
2 Using the pipe bender of a radius of curvature of ~3.5 inches, make a nice rounded bend, preferrably NOT sharp, because you dont want to snag anyone entering the car if they sit in the back.
3 Make the calculations from the center of the bar, and then cut off the ends, we dont want to start on one side and end up short. Calculate WISELY. fron the center of a 6 foot bar, thats roughly 36 inches from the end to the center. we want 55 inches TOTAL length. so that means, the bend will have to start 24.25 fron the center, with a 3.5 inch radius of curvature. Make the bends and hopefully it'll come out with a nice U

4 with the U bar on the ground, flatten the ends into a pinch, making sure that the ends are PERPENDICULAR to the ground and its up/down, Now cut the legs of the U bar to around 8 inches in overall length. You need to clear the back of your seats. 8 Inches is MORE than enough. Any more? then you should skoot your chair up and raide the back up.. you shouldn't be slouching like that!
5. Using your aluminum sheeting, make some type of bracket at the base of the Bpillar where the seat-belt rail stops. then drill two holes into this bracket. then two holes into the sides of the Legs of the U Bar. Bolt into place.. Make the Bar parallel to the window in the rear doors. Now we need to brace the Bar. using the remaining pipe, cut to pieces and make legs.. Imagine the shape of the greek letter "pi" and this is what we need to do. Using common FENCING material, you can make an easy T joint to attach the pipe to the stands. using the width of the "hump" down the center of the car as the width of the two legs on the bar. measure the correct height. then smash the end without the T joint and drill a hole large enought to get it through the stock rear seat bolt that holds your seat into the car. that will provide MORE than enough up/down support for the bar.
6. Put the camera mount in the center, and use rubber around the clamps to improve grip and dampening of the mount.

clee130

Or ... be ghetto like me and theblue and duct tape the sucker to the rear deck.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

I just tape it to the new guys hand and tape his face to the eye piece.


I was looking into the tri pod in the back passenger seat foot well, removing the front passenger seat headrest, and basicly reclining (sp) the seat till its snug.

But I do not know how that would look