ohboiya

iTrader: (3)

My service guy told me 2 switch all my oils 2 synthetics ... why? Also ... I have an oil change coming up ... is there any benefit at all of doing this just b4 the winter?

tkx

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

tons of stuff. use the search feature and you should be able to find several long threads

in short, synthetics have a MUCH lower cold pour point (Amsoil is good to -40 to -70 deg F.. depending on the viscosity). Most non syn oils can flow smoothly until -10 deg F.

syn. also have a higher flashpoint, which prevents them from breaking down and losing their viscosity. once the oil loses it's viscosity is when you get pissed and switch to a better oil.

overall, syn. are able to bond to your internal components better, allowing for less friction, less wear, et etc.. definately worth making the switch.

but, be careful if you have a high mileage car. it's recommended to use a flushing oil (ie 0w-30) before switching.

drain out the old oil. dump in the flushing oil. idle the car for 10-15 min. drain out the flushing oil. replace the oil filter. put in the new oil filter. put in syn. oil. by using the flushing oil, you can break down any sludge or carbon deposit buildups that have formed. if the camshaft seals are in bad condition, then you may get a leak. Before w/ conventional, the sludge and buildup built up around the cam seals, preventing the leak. Anyway, if you have a leak, the cam seals should be replaced anyway, so the syn. oil is doing you a favor by letting you know they're bad

The_quorum

When I lived in Wisconsin, I took my car to a dealer for service, and since I was there, I asked him what the difference was...at that time I had a Geo Storm GSI (fun car, by the way).
He said, I'll show you. He took 2 small vials and poured a bit of regular 5w-30 dino into one and 5w-30 synth into another. Took me out back and stuck them into a snow drift (it was like -15 that day w/out windchill factored in...DAMN COLD!!!)...3 hours later, after the car was done and I was paying for it, he took me back outside and pulled the vials out and tipped them on the side. The regular dino oil was THICK and ran REALLY slowly. The synthetic ran straight down the side of the glass as if it was warm. He then looked at me and said "imagine the inside of your engine and tryiong to get this stuff (motioning w/ the regular stuff) into your engine on days like today. At least use this (synthetic) in winter."

So ever since then, I have...I notice easier starts and smoother cold idles in cold weather (though in MD it's not a fraction as bad as it was in WI).

One thing I did notice though, that I'm a bit concerned about...when I change the oil w/ Regular oil...I pour in 4.5 quarts...when I drain it, I get 4 back. When I use Synthetic, I pour in 4.5 and when I drain it, I MAYBE get 3 out...Like it eats the synthetic oil or it evaproates, or something...where is it all going????

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

It didn't go anywhere! Synthetic bonds so much better than conventional so that it doesn't all drain out cuz it's still bonding to your internal parts and oil pan

but, double check and make sure you don't any oil leaks or if you're burning oil.

The_quorum

...to just be extra that is stuck to the components, but I'll go with that explanation for now. No leaks that I can tell, especially considering the synth/dino drain is consistant when going back and forth between the two.

I had an old Cutlass once and remember taking the valve cover off once to find all sorts of sludge and carbon built up on the lifters and had images of that happening to my Max's engine. I feel reassured now that it's not.