OT: Engine internals problems...
02-17-2002, 01:47 PM
#1
OT: Engine internals problems...
I know this is kinda off topic, as its not directly Maxima related. However, its a pretty broad automotive question so I'd ask the moderators to leave it up. 
My gf has a 1992 Mitsubishi Mirage (I4 1.5L NA, Auto, 89k). When she starts the car and its cold, it will not idle itself. You need to manually hold the throttle open and idle. You also need to give the car gas, kinda like it was carburated (sp?), but of course its not, it has FI.
Anyways...took it to a dealer (thinking maybe it was a sensor, ECTS or O2 or something) and they said that they wanted to replace the engine, or at least rebuild the top half. They said it basically has 1 good cylinder and three that are shot. We walked out with the car like it was, as I wanted to look into it more.
So, this weekend I did a compression test and here are my results (in PSI, cylinders 1-4 in that order):
170, 130, 70, 35
Then I added a cap of oil (5w-30) to cylinders 2, 3 and 4 and did the test again...
170, 170, 120, 55
Now, I'm not sure what stock numbers are for the car yet, but that's not really my problem right now. Its that range that killing us!
Some more info...exhaust seems to be very white in color and doesn't smell strange. This is kinda hard to tell right now because its so cold, and almost all exhaust looks white. The car also seems to be loosing coolent. She said that her temp guage has been reading higher lately, so I replace the coolant today and we'll keep an eye on in.
Now onto what's wrong. I'm hoping its the head gasket out of simplicity sake. Figure a day of work and a $50 part to solve the problem would be great. This seems to be reasonable, because of the exhaust, coolant and adjacent cylinders having problems.
However, the higher numbers on the wet test lead me to believe that the piston rings aren't in great shape either, and cylinder 4 may be in big trouble no matter what (totally shot rings, hole in piston, etc). Another possibality is stuck valves, but I can't imagine that's the problem. Anyone know how to tell without tearing the engine apart?
One more thing...once the car is up to temp it runs like a champ. The plugs looked good, so I don't think its a fuel issue or anything like that.
Anyone farmilar with internals have any ideas on this?
My gf has a 1992 Mitsubishi Mirage (I4 1.5L NA, Auto, 89k). When she starts the car and its cold, it will not idle itself. You need to manually hold the throttle open and idle. You also need to give the car gas, kinda like it was carburated (sp?), but of course its not, it has FI.
Anyways...took it to a dealer (thinking maybe it was a sensor, ECTS or O2 or something) and they said that they wanted to replace the engine, or at least rebuild the top half. They said it basically has 1 good cylinder and three that are shot. We walked out with the car like it was, as I wanted to look into it more.
So, this weekend I did a compression test and here are my results (in PSI, cylinders 1-4 in that order):
170, 130, 70, 35
Then I added a cap of oil (5w-30) to cylinders 2, 3 and 4 and did the test again...
170, 170, 120, 55
Now, I'm not sure what stock numbers are for the car yet, but that's not really my problem right now. Its that range that killing us!
Some more info...exhaust seems to be very white in color and doesn't smell strange. This is kinda hard to tell right now because its so cold, and almost all exhaust looks white. The car also seems to be loosing coolent. She said that her temp guage has been reading higher lately, so I replace the coolant today and we'll keep an eye on in.
Now onto what's wrong. I'm hoping its the head gasket out of simplicity sake. Figure a day of work and a $50 part to solve the problem would be great. This seems to be reasonable, because of the exhaust, coolant and adjacent cylinders having problems.
However, the higher numbers on the wet test lead me to believe that the piston rings aren't in great shape either, and cylinder 4 may be in big trouble no matter what (totally shot rings, hole in piston, etc). Another possibality is stuck valves, but I can't imagine that's the problem. Anyone know how to tell without tearing the engine apart?
One more thing...once the car is up to temp it runs like a champ. The plugs looked good, so I don't think its a fuel issue or anything like that.
Anyone farmilar with internals have any ideas on this?
02-17-2002, 02:04 PM
#2
Is it using oil also? That's another sign that the rings are bad. Or it could be worn valve stem seals. Does it give a puff of blue smoke after sitting then runs well? That's a stem seal sign.
I would take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone labs. They can tell you if there is water in the coolant.
I would guess if you are not getting decent compression after adding oil, the rings are really bad or the headgasket is blown on either side of the #3 piston(possible around the water jackets also)
I would take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone labs. They can tell you if there is water in the coolant.
I would guess if you are not getting decent compression after adding oil, the rings are really bad or the headgasket is blown on either side of the #3 piston(possible around the water jackets also)
02-17-2002, 02:08 PM
#3
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Is it using oil also? That's another sign that the rings are bad. Or it could be worn valve stem seals. Does it give a puff of blue smoke after sitting then runs well? That's a stem seal sign.
I would take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone labs. They can tell you if there is water in the coolant.
I would guess if you are not getting decent compression after adding oil, the rings are really bad or the headgasket is blown on either side of the #3 piston(possible around the water jackets also)
Is it using oil also? That's another sign that the rings are bad. Or it could be worn valve stem seals. Does it give a puff of blue smoke after sitting then runs well? That's a stem seal sign.
I would take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone labs. They can tell you if there is water in the coolant.
I would guess if you are not getting decent compression after adding oil, the rings are really bad or the headgasket is blown on either side of the #3 piston(possible around the water jackets also)
Good idea on the labs...but is coolant mostly water? Did you mean coolant in the oil?
Can't say that I've noticed blue smoke on startup, but I'll keep an eye out and have her start the car next time I see her.
Thanks.
02-17-2002, 02:11 PM
#4
blackstone will look for glycol and other stuff to indicate coolant in the oil.
Originally posted by ejj5875
Yes, it is using oil. About 1 quart ever 3k (only takes about 3.5 quarts to fill it). We're using 10W-30, and I'm thinking of trying thicker oil next time.
Good idea on the labs...but is coolant mostly water? Did you mean coolant in the oil?
Can't say that I've noticed blue smoke on startup, but I'll keep an eye out and have her start the car next time I see her.
Thanks.
Yes, it is using oil. About 1 quart ever 3k (only takes about 3.5 quarts to fill it). We're using 10W-30, and I'm thinking of trying thicker oil next time.
Good idea on the labs...but is coolant mostly water? Did you mean coolant in the oil?
Can't say that I've noticed blue smoke on startup, but I'll keep an eye out and have her start the car next time I see her.
Thanks.
02-17-2002, 03:27 PM
#6
Jeff, with compression like that... would it be worth it to do that test? The sequence of CP sounds like the head bolts have loosened up on the back end, probably leading to ruining the head gasket and thus the coolant leak leading to high engine temperatures...
02-17-2002, 11:13 PM
#7
Dunno. It might just be easier to buy another good used engine. Just depends on how much he wants to spend. Your theory could very well be correct.
I guess if it's cheap enough, just do the headgasket and see what happens. But try to inspect the HG when you lift the head off. Might tell you something.
try searching for blackstone labs. Should get you there.
I guess if it's cheap enough, just do the headgasket and see what happens. But try to inspect the HG when you lift the head off. Might tell you something.
try searching for blackstone labs. Should get you there.
Originally posted by Chunger
Jeff, with compression like that... would it be worth it to do that test? The sequence of CP sounds like the head bolts have loosened up on the back end, probably leading to ruining the head gasket and thus the coolant leak leading to high engine temperatures...
Jeff, with compression like that... would it be worth it to do that test? The sequence of CP sounds like the head bolts have loosened up on the back end, probably leading to ruining the head gasket and thus the coolant leak leading to high engine temperatures...
02-17-2002, 11:23 PM
#8
Turtle turtle... Moderator
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Aug 2000
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you could do a cylinder leakdown test and that will pinpoint excatly where your having the prob. if you can get access to "sniffer" put it right over the radiator cap opening and see if it measures HC...if its high...UH OH! hehehe
dude....Mitsubushi suck man...my parents trans on thier Galant juss went out at 64k mi. THey drive it easy and i did their tranny services at 30k and 60k....stupid POS!!
dude....Mitsubushi suck man...my parents trans on thier Galant juss went out at 64k mi. THey drive it easy and i did their tranny services at 30k and 60k....stupid POS!!
02-18-2002, 06:19 AM
#9
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
you could do a cylinder leakdown test and that will pinpoint excatly where your having the prob. if you can get access to "sniffer" put it right over the radiator cap opening and see if it measures HC...if its high...UH OH! hehehe
dude....Mitsubushi suck man...my parents trans on thier Galant juss went out at 64k mi. THey drive it easy and i did their tranny services at 30k and 60k....stupid POS!!
you could do a cylinder leakdown test and that will pinpoint excatly where your having the prob. if you can get access to "sniffer" put it right over the radiator cap opening and see if it measures HC...if its high...UH OH! hehehe
dude....Mitsubushi suck man...my parents trans on thier Galant juss went out at 64k mi. THey drive it easy and i did their tranny services at 30k and 60k....stupid POS!!
We're not looking to spend a lot of money on this. As it is, we're moving (not sure where yet) at the end of May. After we get settled we're going to get her a new(er) car and ditch this one. If I can fix it for cheap we're going to, if not we'll just hope that it doesn't die before June.
02-18-2002, 06:24 AM
#10
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Re: OT: Engine internals problems...
Originally posted by ejj5875
One more thing...once the car is up to temp it runs like a champ. The plugs looked good, so I don't think its a fuel issue or anything like that.
Anyone farmilar with internals have any ideas on this?
One more thing...once the car is up to temp it runs like a champ. The plugs looked good, so I don't think its a fuel issue or anything like that.
Anyone farmilar with internals have any ideas on this?
There is no way it can possibly have any power. Or produce the power it should.That puppy is hurting. You only have one good cylinder. The test you did with the oil was very informative. You have much more then just a bad head gasket. Cylinders # 2, more so 3 and 4 the worst with big time problems coming up only a bit with oil tells you the rings are shot. (bottom end) #1 stayed pretty high which is normal.
With numbers like that I'd be looking into a used motor someplace or a total rebuild. Bottom and top end. Cylinder 4 being so low, you could have some engine block damage. Sometimes if a ring breaks, the cylinder walls will get gouged by the lose piece of ring still in place on the piston. I've seen this happen to Fords V8's in there older F series trucks.
1992 Mitsubishi Mirage, is it really worth it to throw that kind of cash into this car? Unless the body and interrior is excellent, sell it to the junk man
and start car shopping.
02-18-2002, 06:26 AM
#11
Originally posted by ejj5875
I wish I could. I don't have then equiptment (or compressor) to do the test.
We're not looking to spend a lot of money on this. As it is, we're moving (not sure where yet) at the end of May. After we get settled we're going to get her a new(er) car and ditch this one. If I can fix it for cheap we're going to, if not we'll just hope that it doesn't die before June.
I wish I could. I don't have then equiptment (or compressor) to do the test.
We're not looking to spend a lot of money on this. As it is, we're moving (not sure where yet) at the end of May. After we get settled we're going to get her a new(er) car and ditch this one. If I can fix it for cheap we're going to, if not we'll just hope that it doesn't die before June.
Here's some info on taking a sample:
How to analyze your oil/participate
If you would like to participate in this spreadsheet, you are welcome to do so, or if you are curious as to how your oil holds up after any interval, here's how to have your oil analyzed:
E-mail Blackstone Labs for a free sample kit at the following link:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
Blackstone will analyze any of the following fluids:
Motor Oil
ATF (same as Power Steering Fluid)
Gear Oil (for 5-speeds)
Differential Fluid
Cost: $18.50 plus postage (usually $1.50 or so via regular mail)
In addition, it is recommended that you pay Blackstone another $10.00 to perform a TBN analysis on the oil as well. This will give you a better indication as to how long the oil could continue to function normally in your particular engine. This is probably especially useful for those “first-timers” who are getting their oil analyzed for the first time. Member BrorJace first brought this to light and his results can be found in the thread that covers his vehicle in the subsequent threads.
Here are some links with more detailed information on TBN:
http://google.yahoo.com/bin/query?p=...mber&hc=0&hs=0
http://www.kittiwake.com/products/pr...s/tbn-elec.asp
http://www.filtakleen-usa.com/slideshow/Slide5.htm
How do I take a sample?
This is not straightforward. The only way I know to reliably take a sample is to get the oil/ATF warm by driving the car around a little bit (this allows all "particles" in the engine to be evenly suspended in the oil). Once the engine temperature cools down and is warm (not blazing hot), then take the oil plug or ATF plug off and allow it to drain for at least 5 seconds before placing the container under the flow of the oil. Is it messy? Yes. Also, it is best to sample when you are actually changing the oil, so you don't have to get yet another container to catch the oil while you're taking a sample and trying to get the oil drain plug back on without draining all the oil out.
Please note the ATF drain plug requires a 1/2" square ratchet to take off. See the 3rd and 4th generation maintenance posts for information on Transmission Coolers, with specific information on the ATF drain plug and why it may need replacement.
After taking a sample, now it’s time to send in your sample. As you will notice, the package to send it back is a bottle with a top cap that is easy to twist off. Several of our members have actually attempted to have their oil analyzed, only to have their package mysteriously “not arrive”. In my experiences sending these containers at the post office, I can understand why. Several of the employees made under breath comments about what was in the bottle, signaling to me that there was a little too much curiosity over its contents (most speculated it was blood). Therefore, I would recommend placing the sample container in another box and shipping it to Blackstone. I’m unaware of this method getting containers “lost in the mail”.
Now, wait for the results from Blackstone. Based on the results/their recommendations, adjust your drain interval accordingly. The next time you change your oil, send it in again to make sure everything is OK. Then follow their guidelines for a drain interval again, and take future samples for your own peace of mind. Using their recommendations will automatically account for your specific driving habits (towing, really low mileage, high mileage, S/C installed, etc.)
If you would like to participate in this spreadsheet, you are welcome to do so, or if you are curious as to how your oil holds up after any interval, here's how to have your oil analyzed:
E-mail Blackstone Labs for a free sample kit at the following link:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
Blackstone will analyze any of the following fluids:
Motor Oil
ATF (same as Power Steering Fluid)
Gear Oil (for 5-speeds)
Differential Fluid
Cost: $18.50 plus postage (usually $1.50 or so via regular mail)
In addition, it is recommended that you pay Blackstone another $10.00 to perform a TBN analysis on the oil as well. This will give you a better indication as to how long the oil could continue to function normally in your particular engine. This is probably especially useful for those “first-timers” who are getting their oil analyzed for the first time. Member BrorJace first brought this to light and his results can be found in the thread that covers his vehicle in the subsequent threads.
Here are some links with more detailed information on TBN:
http://google.yahoo.com/bin/query?p=...mber&hc=0&hs=0
http://www.kittiwake.com/products/pr...s/tbn-elec.asp
http://www.filtakleen-usa.com/slideshow/Slide5.htm
How do I take a sample?
This is not straightforward. The only way I know to reliably take a sample is to get the oil/ATF warm by driving the car around a little bit (this allows all "particles" in the engine to be evenly suspended in the oil). Once the engine temperature cools down and is warm (not blazing hot), then take the oil plug or ATF plug off and allow it to drain for at least 5 seconds before placing the container under the flow of the oil. Is it messy? Yes. Also, it is best to sample when you are actually changing the oil, so you don't have to get yet another container to catch the oil while you're taking a sample and trying to get the oil drain plug back on without draining all the oil out.
Please note the ATF drain plug requires a 1/2" square ratchet to take off. See the 3rd and 4th generation maintenance posts for information on Transmission Coolers, with specific information on the ATF drain plug and why it may need replacement.
After taking a sample, now it’s time to send in your sample. As you will notice, the package to send it back is a bottle with a top cap that is easy to twist off. Several of our members have actually attempted to have their oil analyzed, only to have their package mysteriously “not arrive”. In my experiences sending these containers at the post office, I can understand why. Several of the employees made under breath comments about what was in the bottle, signaling to me that there was a little too much curiosity over its contents (most speculated it was blood). Therefore, I would recommend placing the sample container in another box and shipping it to Blackstone. I’m unaware of this method getting containers “lost in the mail”.
Now, wait for the results from Blackstone. Based on the results/their recommendations, adjust your drain interval accordingly. The next time you change your oil, send it in again to make sure everything is OK. Then follow their guidelines for a drain interval again, and take future samples for your own peace of mind. Using their recommendations will automatically account for your specific driving habits (towing, really low mileage, high mileage, S/C installed, etc.)
Unfortunately, Blackstone is rather slow to get you a container quickly. If you will e-mail me privately, I'll arrange to ship you a sample container today. It should get there Wednesday.
02-18-2002, 06:42 AM
#12
Re: Re: OT: Engine internals problems...
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
That line about your engine running like a champ when it's up to temp is just too funny There is no way it can possibly have any power. Or produce the power it should.
That puppy is hurting. You only have one good cylinder. The test you did with the oil was very informative. You have much more then just a bad head gasket. Cylinders # 2, more so 3 and 4 the worst with big time problems coming up only a bit with oil tells you the rings are shot. (bottom end) #1 stayed pretty high which is normal.
With numbers like that I'd be looking into a used motor someplace or a total rebuild. Bottom and top end. Cylinder 4 being so low, you could have some engine block damage. Sometimes if a ring breaks, the cylinder walls will get gouged by the lose piece of ring still in place on the piston. I've seen this happen to Fords V8's in there older F series trucks.
1992 Mitsubishi Mirage, is it really worth it to throw that kind of cash into this car? Unless the body and interrior is excellent, sell it to the junk man and start car shopping.
That line about your engine running like a champ when it's up to temp is just too funny
There is no way it can possibly have any power. Or produce the power it should.That puppy is hurting. You only have one good cylinder. The test you did with the oil was very informative. You have much more then just a bad head gasket. Cylinders # 2, more so 3 and 4 the worst with big time problems coming up only a bit with oil tells you the rings are shot. (bottom end) #1 stayed pretty high which is normal.
With numbers like that I'd be looking into a used motor someplace or a total rebuild. Bottom and top end. Cylinder 4 being so low, you could have some engine block damage. Sometimes if a ring breaks, the cylinder walls will get gouged by the lose piece of ring still in place on the piston. I've seen this happen to Fords V8's in there older F series trucks.
1992 Mitsubishi Mirage, is it really worth it to throw that kind of cash into this car? Unless the body and interrior is excellent, sell it to the junk man
and start car shopping.
Its not worth the money. That why if I can get an improvement (making the car driveable for a few more months) out of something simple or cheep then I'm all for it. Plus I wouldn't pay for the labor, 'cause on this car I'd just do it all...so if a $50 head gasket makes it better...then its worth it.
02-18-2002, 09:41 AM
#13
Re: Re: Re: OT: Engine internals problems...
ejj5875
My parents still have a 1980 Mitsubishi Lancer w/ a 1.4L I4 and it still runs.
It had the same problem you described (hard to keep idle when cold), but changing the spark plugs didn't do much. We changed the spark plug cables & distributor cap and whoaaaa, problem solved. I never thought that cables and a distributor cap could cause so much hell!
Cheap to replace the contact point, distributor cap and cables, you could try it out (if you haven't already). As for the coolant, see if you're losing any.
My parents still have a 1980 Mitsubishi Lancer w/ a 1.4L I4 and it still runs.
It had the same problem you described (hard to keep idle when cold), but changing the spark plugs didn't do much. We changed the spark plug cables & distributor cap and whoaaaa, problem solved. I never thought that cables and a distributor cap could cause so much hell!
Cheap to replace the contact point, distributor cap and cables, you could try it out (if you haven't already). As for the coolant, see if you're losing any.
02-18-2002, 09:45 AM
#14
Re: Re: Re: Re: OT: Engine internals problems...
Originally posted by pocketrocket
ejj5875
My parents still have a 1980 Mitsubishi Lancer w/ a 1.4L I4 and it still runs.
It had the same problem you described (hard to keep idle when cold), but changing the spark plugs didn't do much. We changed the spark plug cables & distributor cap and whoaaaa, problem solved. I never thought that cables and a distributor cap could cause so much hell!
Cheap to replace the contact point, distributor cap and cables, you could try it out (if you haven't already). As for the coolant, see if you're losing any.
ejj5875
My parents still have a 1980 Mitsubishi Lancer w/ a 1.4L I4 and it still runs.
It had the same problem you described (hard to keep idle when cold), but changing the spark plugs didn't do much. We changed the spark plug cables & distributor cap and whoaaaa, problem solved. I never thought that cables and a distributor cap could cause so much hell!
Cheap to replace the contact point, distributor cap and cables, you could try it out (if you haven't already). As for the coolant, see if you're losing any.
My gf had the distributor, wires and plugs replaced when she first got the car. So, I don't think that was the problems. I just replaced the plugs again this weekend and she said that it felt smoother on the highway...but that may not be related.
I don't think its an ignition problem. That wouldn't account for the very bad compression numbers.
02-18-2002, 10:00 AM
#15
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
I wish you luck but think your looking at a dead motor here. If you continue to run it this way with very uneven cylinders, chances are you will sooner or later throw a rod.
02-18-2002, 11:18 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
White exhaust smoke (aka steam) is a classic indication that your head gasket is bad. Have a shop do a leakdown test. Make sure that the shop understands that a leakdown test is not a compression test. If you get bubbling in your radiator fluid or the fluid rises under pressure then you know.
A pressurized coolant system test will also tell you if the head gasket is bad. Don't put off the repair. The engine wears very rapidly with coolant in the oil.
So info on Leakdown tests: http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
If you replace the head gasket, get the proper torque sequence for the head bolts and a good torque wrench, of course.
Good luck.
A pressurized coolant system test will also tell you if the head gasket is bad. Don't put off the repair. The engine wears very rapidly with coolant in the oil.
So info on Leakdown tests: http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
If you replace the head gasket, get the proper torque sequence for the head bolts and a good torque wrench, of course.
Good luck.
02-18-2002, 11:30 AM
#17
Originally posted by poirier
White exhaust smoke (aka steam) is a classic indication that your head gasket is bad. Have a shop do a leakdown test. Make sure that the shop understands that a leakdown test is not a compression test. If you get bubbling in your radiator fluid or the fluid rises under pressure then you know.
A pressurized coolant system test will also tell you if the head gasket is bad. Don't put off the repair. The engine wears very rapidly with coolant in the oil.
So info on Leakdown tests: http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
If you replace the head gasket, get the proper torque sequence for the head bolts and a good torque wrench, of course.
Good luck.
White exhaust smoke (aka steam) is a classic indication that your head gasket is bad. Have a shop do a leakdown test. Make sure that the shop understands that a leakdown test is not a compression test. If you get bubbling in your radiator fluid or the fluid rises under pressure then you know.
A pressurized coolant system test will also tell you if the head gasket is bad. Don't put off the repair. The engine wears very rapidly with coolant in the oil.
So info on Leakdown tests: http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
If you replace the head gasket, get the proper torque sequence for the head bolts and a good torque wrench, of course.
Good luck.
02-18-2002, 01:21 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
It's probably going to cost more than you would pay someone to do the test, but adding to the toolkit is always good.
Try here:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long29.htm
I found one somewhere else for less, but they were out of stock.
Try here:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long29.htm
I found one somewhere else for less, but they were out of stock.
02-18-2002, 01:25 PM
#19
Originally posted by poirier
It's probably going to cost more than you would pay someone to do the test, but adding to the toolkit is always good.
Try here:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long29.htm
I found one somewhere else for less, but they were out of stock.
It's probably going to cost more than you would pay someone to do the test, but adding to the toolkit is always good.
Try here:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long29.htm
I found one somewhere else for less, but they were out of stock.
02-18-2002, 01:35 PM
#21
Originally posted by bill99gxe
ejj5875,
Your Blackstone sample container kit is sitting in a Post Office. Hopefully, you'll see it on Wed. or Thurs.
ejj5875,
Your Blackstone sample container kit is sitting in a Post Office. Hopefully, you'll see it on Wed. or Thurs.
If you don't have to wait I'll do it ASAP. How long do they take to process results?
02-18-2002, 01:44 PM
#22
Originally posted by ejj5875
Thanks Bill. Don't know when I'll get to do the test. Do you have to wait for an elapsed time period? I just changed her oil about 1k miles ago (although I change it every 2500 in this car), and she doesn't really drive that much.
If you don't have to wait I'll do it ASAP. How long do they take to process results?
Thanks Bill. Don't know when I'll get to do the test. Do you have to wait for an elapsed time period? I just changed her oil about 1k miles ago (although I change it every 2500 in this car), and she doesn't really drive that much.
If you don't have to wait I'll do it ASAP. How long do they take to process results?
Well, I'm thinking that if you have probs and there is contamination, it should show up in the oil.
Blackstone is very prompt in getting your results back. For faster service, just specify on the slip that you send back with the oil to send it to your e-mail account or fax it......
I also suggest re-using the box I sent to you because some of our members' sample containers to Blackstone have mysteriously "disappeared".......there's a little too much curiosity associated with its contents (I've has postmasters tell me they thought it was blood, etc.).
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