Str8ridin

I think a contraption of that sort was being manufactured and sold, but the only problem was that it was driven by the belts and needed power to run, so the gains weren't that much. Some guy on this forum actually made his own with a model airplane fan to force more air into the intake. Do a search on something like that....

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Assuming that the power source would be your car's alternator, the increased drag imposed on the alternator would probably offset any, if at all, increase in hp the fan would produce. Also, the fan would disturb the flow past the MAF since its so close, hurting performance yet again.

DW

multiplexor

belts.. hmm... i would rather it ran by itself... without help from the engine. Hmmm i'll do a search for the hell of it.

OriginalMadMax

That is the electric ramcharger (e-ram). You can do a search. I started a thread on it recently. I have one, and it's a lot more powerful than a computer fan. It comes on at WOT, and if you hold it in your hand (it weighs a pound or so, plus the K&N filter, connectors and clamps) and turn it on, it will jump out of your hand from the air pressure if you don't expect it and have a loose grip. I haven't dynoed it yet, but the concept is interesting. NO belts. Just a relay hooked up to the battery and a throttle position switch.

philpoe

iTrader: (4)

Wouldn't the motor burn out if left on continuously?
Apparently a 12v motor able with "high enough" duty cycle to constantly raise intake air pressure (basically an electric supercharger) is hard to do.

OriginalMadMax

Yep, but you don't need it on for most driving, since there is already more power available by giving the car more gas. The idea of the electric ram or superchargers (there are a couple of designs around) is to only come on at WOT, when the car is giving all it has conventionally. Since it is rare to be at WOT for more than 15 seconds or so at a time (like a drag race) the engine doesn't burn out. When these were run at road race tracks, they got maybe 30 seconds total use per lap. The rest of the time the car was at partial throttle or braking for turns etc.

philpoe

iTrader: (4)

My question is: Wouldn't the e-ram (or something similar) be useful for accelleration at partial throttle as well? For example if you go to pass on the highway, you may not go WOT, but a boost from the fan may be in order. Duty cycle goes up, but not continuously. Maybe variable assist instead of full-on.

The Venom 400 (despite it's bad rep) tries to address this kind of situation from what I can see. It takes a partial throttle accelleration and tricks the ECU to thinking it's at or near WOT. The result is the perception of a faster car in passing situations. Of course you could floor the pedal for similar results

Hmmm now that I think about it, the Venom 400 + the e-ram would make for an interesting combo... The V400 tricks the ECU to act like the pedal's pushed farther, but if you do floor it, there's still a performance boost when the e-ram kicks in.

What's your take on the e-ram?

OriginalMadMax

Most people here seem to think it's a waste. I'm not sure. No question but it is a strong blast of air. I'd like to dyno, but time and money haven't come together for that yet.

Str8ridin

If the fan just sits there and is not used until WOT, then it sounds like it will interfere with the flow of the intake air when sitting idle.

philpoe

iTrader: (4)

Their website had/has dynos showing no effect when the fan was not active.
The argument was presented that if the motor burns out or the electricity to it was cut for some reason, what would happen to the airflow.

OriginalMadMax

I didn't notice any change in gas mileage ...

Gary95

I would think that the fan spins freely from incoming air when not in use, so it wouldn't interfere with air flow.

I wonder how much better it would be to have a toggle switch on the dash to turn on the e-ram only when needed, so it'll be active during partial and WOT.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Well, since the fan is attached to a high torque motor, as mentioned above, I doubt that the fan would spin with that much freedom.

DW

OriginalMadMax

I've seen those in Chinatown at a Honda speed shop. It seems they cover a lot of the filter, though, take away some of the advantage of being so open ... My Weapon R filter is open on the end, and the dryer hose fits snugly over the lip.

OriginalMadMax

No, it doesn't spin that freely, but the fan blades also don't obstruct very much, so it wouldn't make much difference anyway. The biggest obstruction would be the motor, which doesn't move. Again, pretty small ...

maxwillden

Do you have a more thorough parts list for this mod. I want to buy them tomorrow, and don't know exactly what I'm looking for. Also, how do you keep the plumbing elbow in the middle of the filter? Does it just stay there?

Str8ridin

Lowe's hardware is a great place to start.
The tube is actually a pool/spa hose, it doesn't crease when bent and is prefforated on the outside, not inside. Get about 5 feet.

The plumbing joints, two of them, are 2" wide joints that connect to each other. Look around in the plumbing section and you will see all kinds if lengths, angles etc. Make sure they fit over or in your tube.

Since the write-up, I've duct taped a piece of an air-conditioner filter to the end of the joints to filter out dirt at excessive speeds. I highly recommend that. It slows down the airflow a little, but doesn't overwhelm that section of your cone filter.

In the outdoor rain/gutter section, you'll find all kinds of gutter pieces that resemble scoops. Pick the right size and shape that you want. The soft black plastic ones work best and are easy to cut when needed. Buy a small oil funnel if you have to in order to connect the tube to the gutter scoop to properly funnel the air into the tube.

Lastly, just be creative on how to connect everything and attach it under your car or in your fog light. PM me if you have more questions..

-Raceen

OriginalMadMax

I looked at doing all this a long time ago, even bought some parts. In the end I decided it's still the easiest to reinstall the stock intake plenum to bring cool air to the cone intake, using the aluminum dryer duct to cover and extend it to the desired location. One advantage of this is that it also creates a bit of a heat shield between the engine and intake. Of course, one could also do both. No reason not to plumb MORE cool air.

Still looking for the right hood vent ....

Str8ridin

bump.

I’ve bumped this thread up and added more description to the parts I used and instructions on how to do it due to the many inquiries/PM’s I’ve received now that fall and winter’s cool air is creeping up on us

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

If you dont have foglights then you can do what I did. Same Idea but I used a much larger funnel and piping.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...60_36_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...60_38_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...60_37_full.jpg

mdmartin92

I woner if Injen or Place racing gave any consideration to adding a short ram HAI to their CAI's. I dont think it would be very hard to do. They could just add the short ram HAI in line with the intake tube on the injen just before the bend coming out of the throttle body. The only other thing they would probably have to do is relocate the MAF closer to the throttle body. I made of picture of this in my paint program using a picture of the Injen CAI but don't know how to post here. I wonder if there is any benefit at all to having both, I can't imagine that it would perform worse than a CAI or a HAI, you should get the best of both worlds.