Royal Purple isn't what it's cracked up to be. I have yet to be impressed with anyone who uses it.........Having said that, it would be nice to get more Royal Purple and Redline users, and get some "baseline" analyses done on all oils, which I will work on doing in the near future.


Based on what I've seen with Redline, I wouldn't use it for extended drains, just for performance needs. If I were going 15k or more (as I have ) then I would go Amsoil. It's proven itself empirically without me having to say a word or an unsubstantiated opinion......



Yes it will. Just e-mail me once you have results and we'll take it from there.

Great! My b!tching about it must be paying off....

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=100060

Second Post explains TBN. The next spreadsheet will explain it a tad better....

Russ,

That sucks.........I again recommend NOT switching to synthetic on your CL. I can't stress that enough. I think you will screw up its break-in.

 

ONLY the Amsoil Series 2000 oil is designed for 35k/1 year use. It is a waste if you do not drive 35,000 miles per year. Their standard synthetic will go 25k/1 year which is usually just fine for most people.

 

I don't believe I said I was going to synthetic just yet. I got dyno oil for its next oil change. I actually bought Penzoil as you said 5w30 to put in. It so happens my father made use of what was left of my box of GTX Castrol . hehehhe. Anyways, I will be switching it in about 1500 miles. I am gonna change it at 3500 miles. Then the next change will be synthetic probably.

 

I know, I just wanted to be irritating.

 

imho a good quality mineral oil is just fine as long as it's changed maybe 5-6k or so. I think trying to determine the formula of Mobil 1 is extreme. When you lift the engine cover on a Carerra and there is a Mobil 1 sticker there, I'd be pretty confident Mobil 1 is sufficient for a VQ. Heck there's a dude with 179,000 miles on his 95 GLE at work. He said he gets the oil changed at Jiffy Lube every 10,000 or so.

I know there are alot of folks on this forum to whom cost is no object. There's nothing wrong with it. When you have big bucks it's fun to spend. But since the car wasn't delivered with synth, I think Mobil 1 far exceeds what's required for the VQ.

 

You're right, it far exceeds what's REQUIRED for the VQ, but with me, it's about what's BEST for the VQ.

 

Then why bother commenting here?



Well, that's a generalization and pure speculation. It's empirically proven here that Mobile 1 gets stressed after 3k under certain conditions. If anything, it would be more apparent on Porsches.



That's terrific. I'm glad he has not fallen prey to their marketing campaign. How he drives and where he drives affect that number, and doesn't necessarily apply in all cases.

Your point would have more validity if you replaced Mobile 1 with Amsoil.

 

For kicks I emailed this thread to a girl chem egr at CA tech and she said it wasn't saying much. Bottom line, Mobil 1 "reform" is pure synth.

I've always liked Kendall. I've used Castrol when it were on sale, and Penzoil too. Mobil 1 is too rich for my blood, I have house payments. Amsoil I reserve comment on. Guy in the next office uses Mobil 1 in his 99 Blazer, loves it and even changes it every 3k. Real world differs from MS Excel

 

Interesting. I produce real numbers of real vehicles in the real world and all you can produce is sarcastic rhetoric. The lack of respect for other's work and efforts is rather disappointing and you should be ashamed. But based on the pattern and how you post I'm not exactly surprised.


Ok, let's say you change your oil every 5k.......I do it every 15k.....Amsoil averages about $5 to $6 a quart for me. That makes it effectively $2 a quart. That ain't much more than Kendall or Castrol or any other major brand dino oil. You waste at least 8 more quarts of oil than I do in a given drain interval, which means you are more of a glutton when it comes to oil consumption than I am.

But I'm letting those pesky facts get in the way again.....


The real world is what is expressed in the spreadsheet, as that was the whole point of it. I can't help it if you would rather turn a blind eye or cover your ears when the truth is right in front of your face.

 

In the real world, it's not.



Yes, that's a good idea on your part because then you would really have your butt handed to you since that is what has the most data here backing it up.

Guy in next office < > Smart and intelligent, especially since he has a Blazer

Guy in next office = Jiffy Lube lemming who happens to waste even more money by using synthetics, which I could have sworn you yourself said was a waste in the first place so you should probably tell him that

Guy in next office = real world = many lost souls when it comes to sensibile oil changes that you are for some reason trying to legitimize his ignorant beliefs over my efforts to prove and show otherwise IN THE REAL WORLD

 

 

Bill, why did you recommend Pennzoil 5w-30 to Russ?

 

Maybe because it turns to glue after about 5k miles and we all want russ to buy yet ANOTHER car in the next 6 months.

 

Redline is a local company (Benicia) and originally was formulated for Harley drag bikes (lots of local action in the 10+ second bracket) so it's well known. That said, the word around the bikers is it's a good performance oil, but doesn't scavenge as well as some others (Kendall is also popular). Basically the same thing you're saying ...

 

guyz i have a question. Im about to change my oil again. My car is coming up on 15,000 2k1 SE. I have been using regualr 5w30 mobil oil. Do you think that I should switch to Synthetic now? I plan to keep the car at least to 120,000 milez, will it make a difference? or is it ok for me to just keep putting 5w30 regualr mobil oil in it. Also since mobil 1 changed its formula does it mean it will be cheaper now? And will mobil 1 still be a lot better then regualr oil? Sorry bout the questions just curios cuz im about to change my oil again.

 

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

 

That chart is out of date. It is before Mobil 1 ever went Tri-Synthetic.

 

Yes, synthetics will make a difference for you. The car will start easier, be protected better and increase performance and fuel mileage slightly. It is okay for you to keep using regular oil, but synthetics are better. Mobil 1 will not be cheaper for the consumer now, they will just have a better profit margin. Mobil 1 is still better than regular oil, but not as good as a true full synthetic.

 

Amisol is all good, but according to the oil analyst document if the car is still under warranty you would still have to change the oil under regular intervals.

If I wanted to switch my 2K2, then my warranty is garbage, right?

What is your take on it?

 

Honestly, such problems would depend upon who has the better lawyer.

The best way to switch to synthetics or your own drain intervals with your concern is to make sure you analyze the oil each and every time while you are under warranty. Then you have independent data backing up what you are doing from an oil change standpoint.

 

I have a few questions:

1. What setup do you have? Do you have the filtration system.
2. Do you use the Air filter & if so, how well does it work?
3. Whe you switched over to Amisol, was your car still under warranty?
4. What would be your recommendation as to when I should change over to Amisol?
5. Do you do all your oil changes yourself?

I should have my car here in two weeks.

Thanks for taking the time to answer these questions.

 

Okay, after reading this thread (along with others) and Bill's spread sheet, I'm convinced and am going to make the change to Amsoil. I have a few questions though:

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

My car (99 Maxima) and my girlfriends car (97 Altima, which is really mine!) both use 5w30, which is nice. So, for both I'm thinking I'll buy a case (12 quarts) of Amsoil 5w30 synthetic and filters for each car.

I'll put in the amsoil and filter on each car for about 5k miles to "flush" the engine of the older oil, and then change both the filter and oil. From that point on I'd do 10k filter and oil changes on both cars, may filter changes more often if necessary, I'm not really sure.

Would that work fine?

I'm not looking at Amsoil to save money or to have to do less frequent oil changes, 'cause honestly I don't care about either. I'm more interested in them because they are better for the car. I don't think I'd trust any oils over 10k miles.

Sound reasonable?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ejj5875
[B]Okay, after reading this thread (along with others) and Bill's spread sheet, I'm convinced and am going to make the change to Amsoil. I have a few questions though:



Ok.



Amsoil recommends using their Engine Flush product in your current oil. They say to change your filter (they recommend one of their $10 oil filters but that's crazy for something you are going to use for like 10 or 15 minutes. Buy a regular Purolator filter if you do this), and then dump in the Engine Flush in your crankcase. Run the engine for 15 minutes or so at about 2k rpm. This is supposed to loosen up and "flush" the engine. I've done this on my 94 and 99 and have had no adverse affects, so I assume it worked. Then they say to fairly immediately drain the oil so that it will be hot and all the particles that were "loosened" up will come out of the crankcase as desired by Amsoil. After that, change that filter (yeah, I know it was only used 15 minutes) and replace your oil with Amsoil and you should be good to go.



If that's what you are comfortable with, then change the filter at 5k. Have the oil analyzed at 10k to make sure everything looks kosher.



Hopefully.


That's your desire and what you are comfortable with, although when you do this and see your results you will probably end up stretching the interval out further. But who really knows until you do it.


I'm glad you are switching to Amsoil, but there isn't anything wrong with going to a Mobile 1 or Redline, etc. I'm saying this because people probably imply I'm some sort of an Amsoil nutcase, which I'm not. Going over 15k on Amsoil on both my vehicles is why I like Amsoil. I've had good experiences with it.

Good luck.

 

Based on the data and depending on how my Mobil1 oil at 5k turns out I will probably run an extended drain interval of 10-15k. I also plan on doing the engine flush, and your explanation is the best I've seen so far Bill I didn't quite understand the process until just now. The only problem I have is that I previously didn't worry too much about oil consumption because I haven't had any problems and I changed my oil every 3-5k. Now with an extended drain interval I'd have to change filters and top off the oil again right? The biggest problem for me is reading the dipstick! I've searched about how to check the dipstick, but I've never been able to get a real reading from it. If I'm going to go 10-15k I want to make sure I at least have enough oil to be safely doing so.
-hype

 

I would probably shape my drain interval based on those lab results, which you are required to send to me.

That way, you can have confidence you are doing the right thing. If your insolubles and oil are in "great" shape (strong TBN, low metal wear values), then I would go 15k with 7.5k filter change. Otherwise, I would just do 10k/5k........



If you aren't having oil consumption now, then you shouldn't in the future unless something just happens to go wrong mechanically.

Usually, with VQs, the filter is so tiny that you have to replace very little oil. It's usually 1/2 quart or so when you just change the filter.

On VQs, the correct oil level is expressed on the back side of the dipstick that faces you when pulling it out. The front side of the stick makes you think you have several gallons of oil in there......and it's one of the worst out there (I've heard VE owners make similar complaints).

 

I thought Amsoil filters were good to 12.5k or something like that? Would I have to change the filter at 5k, or would it be okay to change both the filter and the oil at 10k?

If I had to change the filter at 5k, would there be any problem in using OEM filters, as I have a bunch lying around.

 

Amsoil Oil: 1 year/25k whichever comes first
Amsoil Oil Filter: 6 months/12.5k whichever comes first

Whatever interval you decide upon, I would change the filter at 5k. Having said that, I went 15k or so on my 94 on one filter and the oil analysis came back peachy. But I won't ever do that again. I change mine on time, so I'm changing the filter at 6 months and the oil and filter at one year.

Honestly, you can use the OEM filter regardless of what you do, since you don't have the desire to go over 10k. I would still change an OEM filter at 5k regardless of what you decide. I don't really have an issue recommending 10k on an Amsoil or Mobile 1 oil filter.

 

So if I do less than 10k, which is when I want to change, in 6 months, 1 Amsoil filter should be more than good enough?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ejj5875
[QUOTE]Originally posted by bill99gxe


Amsoil Oil: 1 year/25k whichever comes first
Amsoil Oil Filter: 6 months/12.5k whichever comes first

Whatever interval you decide upon, I would change the filter at 5k. Having said that, I went 15k or so on my 94 on one filter and the oil analysis came back peachy. But I won't ever do that again. I change mine on time, so I'm changing the filter at 6 months and the oil and filter at one year.

Quote:

So if I do less than 10k, which is when I want to change, in 6 months, 1 Amsoil filter should be more than good enough?

Yep, should be.

 

The 6 month filter change sounds just about right for a wide range of drivers, a good rule of thumb. But why not change the oil at the same time? True, it's gonna vary greatly on the miles driven and driving conditions. But we can get Mobil 1 for $3.85 per quart, so that's $20.41 for the oil. If you change it too soon, you waste a fraction of a $20 bill, in the worst case 1/2 or $10. Haven't we kicked the idea around about super vs. regular unleaded and somewhat agreed that the extra money spent/wasted isn't that much?

But to be clear I don't use Mobil 1 because I don't feel it's necessary. Porsche and Benz do a factory fill so if I owned one, I'd replace it with the same. I do like Kendall GT1 the best, what's so funny about that? As you probably know they also have GT1 full synth and SHP Synth. I can't vouch for them as I've never used them. But I can tell you GT1 is pretty good when changed every 5-6k, and I've poured probably 130 quarts of the stuff. We're splitting hairs when trying to determine the exact mileage to do a replacement, it varies depending on what kind of driving was done, not just mileage. But oil is cheap even at $3.85/quart (figuratively). Better to change too often and every time the filter gets replaced imho.

Pop-quiz, what does the "W" in 5W30 stand for?

 

Wow, I go to work for a few hours and this thread takes off again!

1. I use Amsoil 5W-30 with their SDF filter. I am toying with the idea of installing the by-pass filter, but my car is going to need a clutch soon, so that might take priority.

2. I haven't tried Amsoil's air filter, I have a popcharger on my car.

3. My car is still under warranty and I still extend the drain intervals. If there is an oil related failure, Amsoil provides their own warranty and severely chastises dealerships who advise their customers that the original warranty is voided if the don't follow the service schedule.

4. Ideally, I would wait until at least the 1st scheduled oil change before switching, and wouldn't significantly extend the drain interval until after the second change. As your engine wears in their still be some metal particles circulating for several thousand miles before you get them all out and you don't want an extended drain interval during this period.

5. All oil changes and as much maintenance as I possibly can are performed by myself. I avoid dealers like the plaque.

 

Merlot,

I posted a message that I thought was a reply to this one but I hit the wrong button and it posted as a new message. Thus there is a whole new thread with your namee on it. You are famous now. Sorry guys, I did not mean to do that.

No your warrnty will not be shot...Read the other post.

I also forgot to add my link to my Amsoil "Online Store" site. Duh!

Don

www.lubedealer.com/dstevens

 

Mobil 1 is a true synthetic. This rumor about them switching to petroleum base stock is bogus and even Amsoil dealers admit this.

 

Yes, this Amsoil dealer agrees Mobil-1 is a true PAO synthetic and that the rumors about it being a group III oil was a bunch of uninformed speculation and apparently a gross error on Mobil's own website.

The jury is still out on the Supersyn stuff though. I have heard mostly negative rumors so far but as someone selling a competitive product I admitedly gravitate to negative news about the competition. It very well could be better than previous M-1 products and if it is the stuff will ineveitivebly (sp?) find its way into other synthtetic products. Bill's analysis spread sheet will set the record straight once some Supersyn results come in..

Don