Kevin Wong

After installing my AGX's on my car, I took my car to the local Goodyear shop where I have a lifetime wheel alignment. They really took care of the toe...which is the most important to me. The camber on the driver's side front is off though and they wanted $70 to fix it with bolts. When I had the Tokico's and H&R's everything was fine. I'm thinking maybe they just want some money from me. I guess I can't upload pictures anymore, but the camber is suppose to be in the range of -1 to .5 degrees. Mine is -1.1 degrees.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

They "might" be able to play with the two mounting bolts on the side of the shock to ghetto the -1.1 back into spec. I head you can do that. One of my fronts is also at -1.1 and I can tell it's wearing the Kumho faster than the other(on the inside). I don't think they are BSing you though. You can ask them about fudging the bolts but they will probably just want to use the camber bolts and be done with it.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

[semantics ****]
doesn't ghetto = Jap?
[/semantics ****]




You're such a racist.

redmaxpa007

iTrader: (21)

here we got again with the racist thing...

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

You can probably fix that yourself like Jeff just told you, youll need a 17MM socket and a 19mm to hold the other side and if your tires tuck inward pull on your strut and it will give some positive camber it wont be a lot but each MM counts thats how I do it and I have cut front coils.

Supa Lao

iTrader: (1)

My one camber was at -1.1 w/ my sprint. The place I took mine to, said that it's not worth 60 bucks to put in the camber bolts, so they just left it at that.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Check the inside of your tires if the corners are worn down it will be worth more then $60 per tire when they wear out, but like I said and Jeff said if you loosen the two bolts that hold the strut and pull on it it should give you just MM in Pos camber and it counts. I have cut coils and have the same drop like you sprint folks and my tires are not worn on the inside, I did have the bolts but they made funny noises as if my suspension was to fall apart.

OriginalMadMax

Considering most of the guys I know with Cattman coilovers who autocross run -1.5º to -3º, this hardly seems a problem. Enjoy the handling. Of course, it would be better if you could get the other side to match ...

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

If the passenger side camber is even close to the driver side then I wouldn't worry. Anything under like -1.3 isn't really a problem. Wrong toe is what really causes wear.

Since you've got the lt alignment try moving it a bit and get another reading. No cost to try.

wdave

So - -1.1 isn't much unless you're a dedicated drag racer. Think that all highway ramps are rights - which tire gets loaded? Driver's side front. Want to equalize wear? Attack a ramp (just for fun) now and then. (If I had -1.1 my front tires might wear evenly, now my rf outer edge is almost gone)

wdave

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Actually it's make a noticable difference in wear. My left frt is about -.9 and the right is -1.1. The -1.1 inside portion is noticable more worn than the other side. The toe on both sides are fine.


I do agree that the wrong toe will make a difference in tire wear also though.

JPMontoya

So baiscally what everything comes down to (if the rf tyre wasn't worn) is $60 for bolts vs. $?? for new tyre(s) vs. home fix.

do the home fix as Jeff92se mentioned, if it's still off, get it fixed properly.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I also read a thread on another forum about "slotting" the holes on the shocks. But it's a custom thing only to be done by a good frame/alignment shop.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

Just wanted to add this in case somebody sees on a future search.

I tried going -3.1/-3.0 yesterday by using both plates and smaller upper bolts. With 235/45/17 tires the car was completely undriveable on street and I wouldn't Auto-X with it either. Toe was between 0-1/16 out

1) Entire tire width heated up (not just inside) under 40mph speed
2) Squeal with any twitch of the wheel
3) Unresponsive steering - like 45 degrees of the wheel before the
car responded. Would've been 180+ deg for any slalom
3) Grip was non-existant, car skated all over the place
4) Road ruts, bumps, small potholes - don't ask. But I'm still alive.

Gonna try and find a happy medium between -1.3 and -2.0 going forward.
Live & learn.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

Just wanted to add this in case somebody sees on a future search.

I tried going -3.1/-3.0 yesterday by using both plates and smaller upper bolts. With 235/45/17 tires the car was completely undriveable on street and I wouldn't Auto-X with it either. Toe was between 0-1/16 out

1) Entire tire width heated up (not just inside) under 40mph speed
2) Squeal with any twitch of the wheel
3) Unresponsive steering - like 45 degrees of the wheel before the
car responded. Would've been 180+ deg for any slalom
3) Grip was non-existant, car skated all over the place
4) Road ruts, bumps, small potholes - don't ask. But I'm still alive.

Gonna try and find a happy medium between -1.3 and -2.0 going forward.
Live & learn.

OriginalMadMax

Barry Chafin is running more than that (perhaps as much as -4º camber) on the #1 sponsored Maxima autocrossing in the country, and it's a daily driver. If he wasn't having success, he wouldn't do that. I ran -1.5º and had no problems except the inside of the tires wore out quicker than the rest.

wdave

That's because your difference is the wrong way. Since most turns are to the right these days, if the camber was the same on both sides and small the wear would be Left outer and right inner edges. For street a little more negative camber on the drivers' side would be helpful.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

I'll write Barry to see what's up. I figure he isn't driving to & from events with that setup. If he's running 15" this season that might make a diff too. I was just shocked at the difference in steering feel.