Hi,

As you may have read, I finished installing my CAI a week ago, and have since been plagued with a Check Engine Light within 48 hrs of installation.

I had reset the ECU, but the CEL came back within a day.

I tried getting the ECU code myself, but my '99 i30 seems to have a different ECU than 4th gen maximas. (The sticker says something about it being an idle adjuster, and there is no screw!)

So I took it to my mechanic, and he said the CEL is coming on as a result of error 1130. He said it had something to do with the swirl control valve solenoid.

From just reading that, I have no idea what could be wrong. He wanted to charge me $75 for a more comprehensive diagnosis and to offer me a quote to fix the problem--should I pay him?

Does anyone know what could be wrong? I am sure it is related to my CAI install, so maybe someone here has experience with that. Hopefully it will be something I can check/fix myself.

Thanks.

 

I've been doing some searching and reading and it seems like it might mean that one of the hose is not clamped on tight? Is that right? I've already clamped them on pretty tight but if that is the case I could always turn the screw even harder...

 

Generally speaking most OBD2 codes mean the same between car lines. I will see if toyota (i am a asm @ a toyota dealer) has a 1130 code tomorrow and get back with ya then. As a general rule I will charge 1/2 to 1 hrs time to perform a diagnosis of a trouble code depending on what is envolved, in my book diag is not to make money but is to find a cause! Do NOT let them charge a hr and have it checked it 15 mins!
I check and let ya know as early 4/20 as possible.
l8tr -- SS

 

Thanks, I appreciate that.

 

I know for sure that the 2K's have the swirl valve solenoid. My ECU threw that code when I hooked up a hose to something that didn't give constant vacuum (supercharger install). What those hoses need is constant vacuum, something that isn't true if it is hooked up to the manifold on a supercharged car.

Are the small hoses to the CAI crimped? If they are, that might be the problem.

 

For future reference, I have a '99 SE-L, and I have the same "idle adjustment" sticker on my ECU. Ignore it. The instructions work *exactly* the same for our ECU and the older 4th gen ECU's.

FYI

 

Found p1130 air fuel ratio sensor circuit range/performance malfunction bank 1 sensor 1. Hope this relates and is of help!
l8tr -- SS

 

That's not correct. You must be reading the description off the scanner (I did the same and thought it was the O2). You have to look up the code in the service manual.

 

fyi, just on Cali spec, Fed spec's don't have it (according to the Nissan 2K ESM). What does this valve do anyway?

 

This system has a swirl control valve in the intake passage of each cylinder.
While idling and durnig low engine speed operation, the swirl control valve closes. Thus the velocity of the air in the intake passage increases, promoting the vaporization of the fuel and producing a swirl in the combustion chamber.
Because of this operation, this system tends to increase the burning speed of the gas mixtrue, improve fuel consumption, and increase the stability in running conditions.
Also, except when idling and during low engine speed operation, this system opens the swirl control valve. In this condition, this system tends to increase power by improving intake efficiency via reduction of intake flow resistance, intake flow.
The solenoid valve controls swirl control valve's shut/open condition. This solenoid valve is operated by the ECM.


Of course, all this can be found in the ESM like you stated.

 

Is the swirl valve solenoid the big circular black tube right below the fusebox and next to the CAI hole?

I didn't know what to do with it since it was never mentioned in any of the install docs, so I just found a place for it and tied it up. As a result there was a crimp in one of the small hoses leading to the circular unit--at the time I didn't think it would matter that much.

But I relocated the circular unit and removed all crimps on the hose about 2 days ago. The ECU was reset yesterday and after 60 miles of driving it hasn't come on yet.

I'm about to go drive it some more. Hopefully it won't come on again.

 

I always feel a little "kick" at about 3100-3200 rpm, just before changing gears, especially in the mornings on my way to work (after the car has been sitting overnight) and while the car is warming up to operating temp. I just thought the VI might be opening up early a little for some reason, while the car is warming up. But now this makes sense. The ESM also states (I found the page!) that the valve is kept open, regardless of rpm, when coolant temp is either below 50 deg or above 131 deg.

 

That is simply a starting point, it does not mean that the o2 is faulty it simply states that the problem is on that circuit. Please be advised that this was pulled from TOYOTA info and as I said above most of these codes are the same from manufacture to manufacture that's what obd II was meant to do is keep things consistant from vehicle to vehicle. I hope this helps.
thx -- SS
l8tr

 

Big circular tube next to the CAI hole? Are you talking about the intake resonator?

It's alright, no need to explain. As long as the light doesn't come back on, you're fine.

 

Yup, you're correct.

 

I used an OBD II scanner and grabbed my code, which was 1130. The description that came with the code stated malfunction on bank 1 sensor 1 (like you said). When I looked up the code in the Maxima ESM, I found something totally unrelated to the O2 (which was the swirl valve control).

 

I have no doubt (knowing how serv manuals are written) that would be related to another part. That's why you would want to have diagnosis performed. At least you can get an idea of what circuit to start checking. Heck, that valve could very well be faulty (probably is) and the cause...or (as I have seen MANY times re: electrical concerns) a outside source, read: rodent, may have performed a act upon a wiring harness that will not allow to the proper flow of electrical current causing the code to set. Anyway my point is that if Bill can't fix this vacumn leak and wants to "try" a vacumn valve he may be wasting money better spent on the repair. On the other hand of course if the valve is bad and he spends money on diag. that could also be a waste of $$$. Again just trying to help.
l8tr -- SS

 

Bill found a crimp in one of the hoses (not a vacuum leak). He fixed the problem then cleared the ECU. The light hasn't come one yet, so teh problem should be fixed now (with 60 miles of driving the light would have came on because water temp goes well beyond 131 F).

 

Bill can you message me and tell me where and how you found this issue? I have a 2001 SE and i know one of my rubber seals is busted to the Swirl control valve located closer to the timing chain. if this can help fix the issue it would help. Engine was rebuilt badly and having to work on it myself now.

 

I just got done diagnosing and fixing this problem a week ago. In my case I had just gotten valve cover gaskets done, and the code was as a result of three wires being cris crossed.

1.) The swirl solenoid and swirl control share a little "box" (RED) on the right front of your manifold. In the front of the box are two nipples....these should be connected with a T connector (BLUE).....the T connector should be T'd off again with the Boost Sensor and then attached to a nipple on your intake somewhere.
2.) On the far right side of this little box there will be a larger nipple. That is the main Vac line for your swirl solenoid and VIAS. The correct vac line for that one comes from the left main line over the front of your manifold. (YELLOW)
3.) The "spaghetti" looking hose with a couple weird bends in it should come from the back right side of the manifold and connect to your Fuel Damper just in front and underneath the SWIRL box. (GREEN)
3.) The straight hose that comes from directly next to the spaghetti hose from the back right of the manifold needs to go to the Fuel Pressure Regulator (directly underneath the SWIRL box. (PINK)

Pic- I HAVE ATTACHED A PIC AND COLOR CODED ALL THE VAC HOSES FOR YOU, AND WHERE THEY CONNECT. STUDY IT HARD AND IT SHOULD MAKE SENSE.

 

Amazing Discussion Thread!

Thanks to all who contributed.

Going to fix mine!

 

I have a 2001 SE and i know one of my rubber seals is busted to the Swirl control valve located closer to the timing chain. if this can help fix the issue it would help.