Odometer Repair
05-10-2002, 09:16 AM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 8
Odometer Repair
The odometer has stopped working on my 93 Maxima GXE. It moves occasionally, but not very often. Generally, all we hear is a steady click, click, click which lasts a while and then may stop. The steady clicking noise is really annoying, plus I'd really like a functioning odometer to know when to do oil changes and tire rotations. Everything else on the cluster works fine including the speedo and all gauges. Therefore, if possible, I'd like to do a simple repair or lubrication of the odometer rather than replace the whole cluster.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. Also, can I get access to make a repair or adjustment without taking apart anything major. I tried to reach up under the instrument cluster but really couldn't tell anything. I've also done a search of the discussion forums for odometer repair threads, but have not found anything that really relates to this specific type of problem.
I'd appreciate any help or insight. Thanks.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. Also, can I get access to make a repair or adjustment without taking apart anything major. I tried to reach up under the instrument cluster but really couldn't tell anything. I've also done a search of the discussion forums for odometer repair threads, but have not found anything that really relates to this specific type of problem.
I'd appreciate any help or insight. Thanks.
05-11-2002, 07:46 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,816
Re: Odometer Repair
Originally posted by joiner7
The odometer has stopped working on my 93 Maxima GXE. It moves occasionally, but not very often. Generally, all we hear is a steady click, click, click which lasts a while and then may stop. The steady clicking noise is really annoying, plus I'd really like a functioning odometer to know when to do oil changes and tire rotations. Everything else on the cluster works fine including the speedo and all gauges. Therefore, if possible, I'd like to do a simple repair or lubrication of the odometer rather than replace the whole cluster.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. Also, can I get access to make a repair or adjustment without taking apart anything major. I tried to reach up under the instrument cluster but really couldn't tell anything. I've also done a search of the discussion forums for odometer repair threads, but have not found anything that really relates to this specific type of problem.
I'd appreciate any help or insight. Thanks.
The odometer has stopped working on my 93 Maxima GXE. It moves occasionally, but not very often. Generally, all we hear is a steady click, click, click which lasts a while and then may stop. The steady clicking noise is really annoying, plus I'd really like a functioning odometer to know when to do oil changes and tire rotations. Everything else on the cluster works fine including the speedo and all gauges. Therefore, if possible, I'd like to do a simple repair or lubrication of the odometer rather than replace the whole cluster.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. Also, can I get access to make a repair or adjustment without taking apart anything major. I tried to reach up under the instrument cluster but really couldn't tell anything. I've also done a search of the discussion forums for odometer repair threads, but have not found anything that really relates to this specific type of problem.
I'd appreciate any help or insight. Thanks.
05-11-2002, 08:57 AM
#3
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
Here's what I did - LONG!
Your car just lost 50% of it's value...
I can tell you your options under Ohio law (to the best of my knowledge) based upone me replacing the odo in my Taurus a few years back... Your state may be similar. Parts and labor are what I was quoted by a Ford dealer for my Taurus - Maxima shouldn't be too different.
1) Take it to a dealer for a new odometer
- New odometer will start at zero
- Dealer-applied sticker inside drivers doorjamb reads; "Odometer replaced at xxx,xxx miles. Add this to current reading for true mileage"
- Speedo $250 Install labor $250
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- Door sticker provides a little legitimacy, but value of car still loses 50% as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- You may make a representation to a buyer of the mileage based upon the doorjamb sticker
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- Dealer may notify BMV/DMV - If they do not, it's your repsonsibility to.
2) Purchase new odometer from dealer, install yourself
- New odometer will start at zero
- NO doorjamb sticker. Previous reading will be 'lost'. You can try taking a dated photo of the two odos side by side out of the car to show when the switchover took place, but this is less convincing than the doorjamb sticker.
- Speedo $250 install labor free!
- You should be very careful when making mileage representations to a buyer, unless you have good evidence (ie photo above)
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
3) Purchase an entire dash cluster from a junkyard
- New odometer will start wherever it currently reads!
- No doorjamb sticker. Side-by-side photo would still be helpful to support mileage representation if you are brave enough to make one.
- True mileage is essentially unknown for a buyer.
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed
- Good opportunity to buy an upgraded cluster from a higher model vehicle!
- Cluster $100 install labor free!
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
In all cases;
- If you change the odo without notifying th BMV/DMV then you can be in BIG trouble
- If you sell the car and represent the new lower mileage as true then you are committing fraud and some states will jail you for this
- If you do not notify the BMV/DMV, and sell the car as-is without making a mileage representation ("No comment") then you are still in a legal minefield
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed, and it's legally dangerous because if the buyer can prove you underrepresented (even if you didn't!) then you can be sued for the value difference between what they paid and what a car of thier proven mileage would have cost. If you say; "It has 70k" and they can bring an "expert" in to show the car really probably had over 100k (even if it didn't, this is civil court not criminal court! Proof doesn't need to be 'Beyond resonable doubt', judgement is made based upon a 'preponderance of the evidence', ie who the judge believes) you are in trouble. If you say; "The true mileage is unknown, but I *believe* (not *know*) it to be near 70k" then you are a little safer. If you say "The true mileage is unknown, and I have no comment/cannot estimate the mileage" then you are safe.
- You may *NOT* adjust the new odo to your old reading. The BMV lady laughed when I asked about this and said; "Absolutely NOT!!" Even if you DID, you would still need a branded title/TMU and the buyer would know that you could have set the mileage at anything you like. It's actually better to start with a zero odo with proof of the switchover mileage.
Conclusion: If you intend to ever tade the car, and it will be worth more than 6k at trade in time (full value, without accounting for discrepancy) then the dealer-installed zero-miles odo with door sticker will make it much easier to trade the car to a dealer. It'll still lose value, just not as much. In the long run the $500 cost *may* be cheaper simply because the value may not completely plummet.
If you never intend to sell the car until you drive it into the ground, or inhereted by another family member, then I would get the full cluster. That is what I did with my Taurus. I had a base-level and got the cluster from an SE with rev counter and extra idiot lights. If you don't have, but want a white faced cluster, then this is your chance for about $100. If you sell the car, the value will be very low.
I can tell you your options under Ohio law (to the best of my knowledge) based upone me replacing the odo in my Taurus a few years back... Your state may be similar. Parts and labor are what I was quoted by a Ford dealer for my Taurus - Maxima shouldn't be too different.
1) Take it to a dealer for a new odometer
- New odometer will start at zero
- Dealer-applied sticker inside drivers doorjamb reads; "Odometer replaced at xxx,xxx miles. Add this to current reading for true mileage"
- Speedo $250 Install labor $250
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- Door sticker provides a little legitimacy, but value of car still loses 50% as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- You may make a representation to a buyer of the mileage based upon the doorjamb sticker
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- Dealer may notify BMV/DMV - If they do not, it's your repsonsibility to.
2) Purchase new odometer from dealer, install yourself
- New odometer will start at zero
- NO doorjamb sticker. Previous reading will be 'lost'. You can try taking a dated photo of the two odos side by side out of the car to show when the switchover took place, but this is less convincing than the doorjamb sticker.
- Speedo $250 install labor free!
- You should be very careful when making mileage representations to a buyer, unless you have good evidence (ie photo above)
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
3) Purchase an entire dash cluster from a junkyard
- New odometer will start wherever it currently reads!
- No doorjamb sticker. Side-by-side photo would still be helpful to support mileage representation if you are brave enough to make one.
- True mileage is essentially unknown for a buyer.
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed
- Good opportunity to buy an upgraded cluster from a higher model vehicle!
- Cluster $100 install labor free!
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
In all cases;
- If you change the odo without notifying th BMV/DMV then you can be in BIG trouble
- If you sell the car and represent the new lower mileage as true then you are committing fraud and some states will jail you for this
- If you do not notify the BMV/DMV, and sell the car as-is without making a mileage representation ("No comment") then you are still in a legal minefield
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed, and it's legally dangerous because if the buyer can prove you underrepresented (even if you didn't!) then you can be sued for the value difference between what they paid and what a car of thier proven mileage would have cost. If you say; "It has 70k" and they can bring an "expert" in to show the car really probably had over 100k (even if it didn't, this is civil court not criminal court! Proof doesn't need to be 'Beyond resonable doubt', judgement is made based upon a 'preponderance of the evidence', ie who the judge believes) you are in trouble. If you say; "The true mileage is unknown, but I *believe* (not *know*) it to be near 70k" then you are a little safer. If you say "The true mileage is unknown, and I have no comment/cannot estimate the mileage" then you are safe.
- You may *NOT* adjust the new odo to your old reading. The BMV lady laughed when I asked about this and said; "Absolutely NOT!!" Even if you DID, you would still need a branded title/TMU and the buyer would know that you could have set the mileage at anything you like. It's actually better to start with a zero odo with proof of the switchover mileage.
Conclusion: If you intend to ever tade the car, and it will be worth more than 6k at trade in time (full value, without accounting for discrepancy) then the dealer-installed zero-miles odo with door sticker will make it much easier to trade the car to a dealer. It'll still lose value, just not as much. In the long run the $500 cost *may* be cheaper simply because the value may not completely plummet.
If you never intend to sell the car until you drive it into the ground, or inhereted by another family member, then I would get the full cluster. That is what I did with my Taurus. I had a base-level and got the cluster from an SE with rev counter and extra idiot lights. If you don't have, but want a white faced cluster, then this is your chance for about $100. If you sell the car, the value will be very low.
05-11-2002, 09:15 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,732
Re: Odometer Repair
Originally posted by joiner7
The odometer has stopped working on my 93 Maxima GXE. It moves occasionally, but not very often. Generally, all we hear is a steady click, click, click which lasts a while and then may stop. The steady clicking noise is really annoying, plus I'd really like a functioning odometer to know when to do oil changes and tire rotations. Everything else on the cluster works fine including the speedo and all gauges. Therefore, if possible, I'd like to do a simple repair or lubrication of the odometer rather than replace the whole cluster.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. Also, can I get access to make a repair or adjustment without taking apart anything major. I tried to reach up under the instrument cluster but really couldn't tell anything. I've also done a search of the discussion forums for odometer repair threads, but have not found anything that really relates to this specific type of problem.
I'd appreciate any help or insight. Thanks.
The odometer has stopped working on my 93 Maxima GXE. It moves occasionally, but not very often. Generally, all we hear is a steady click, click, click which lasts a while and then may stop. The steady clicking noise is really annoying, plus I'd really like a functioning odometer to know when to do oil changes and tire rotations. Everything else on the cluster works fine including the speedo and all gauges. Therefore, if possible, I'd like to do a simple repair or lubrication of the odometer rather than replace the whole cluster.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. Also, can I get access to make a repair or adjustment without taking apart anything major. I tried to reach up under the instrument cluster but really couldn't tell anything. I've also done a search of the discussion forums for odometer repair threads, but have not found anything that really relates to this specific type of problem.
I'd appreciate any help or insight. Thanks.
If you want to get it fixed for cheaper then Nissan not to mention a better job then what I would do is send your gauge cluster out to www.importintelligence.com. Call them first and talk to Matt over there. When I had my needles re-calibrated they did an awesome job on them whereas Nissan F*cked the needles up way out of calibration. It cost me about $30 for them to fix the calibration whereas Nissan charged me like $80 (but I got my $$ back). If you have any ?'s email me at nymjayjay@aol.com
Jay
05-11-2002, 03:35 PM
#5
Re: Here's what I did - LONG!
HOLY SHlT, scary stuff.
Originally posted by Scruit
Your car just lost 50% of it's value...
I can tell you your options under Ohio law (to the best of my knowledge) based upone me replacing the odo in my Taurus a few years back... Your state may be similar. Parts and labor are what I was quoted by a Ford dealer for my Taurus - Maxima shouldn't be too different.
1) Take it to a dealer for a new odometer
- New odometer will start at zero
- Dealer-applied sticker inside drivers doorjamb reads; "Odometer replaced at xxx,xxx miles. Add this to current reading for true mileage"
- Speedo $250 Install labor $250
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- Door sticker provides a little legitimacy, but value of car still loses 50% as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- You may make a representation to a buyer of the mileage based upon the doorjamb sticker
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- Dealer may notify BMV/DMV - If they do not, it's your repsonsibility to.
2) Purchase new odometer from dealer, install yourself
- New odometer will start at zero
- NO doorjamb sticker. Previous reading will be 'lost'. You can try taking a dated photo of the two odos side by side out of the car to show when the switchover took place, but this is less convincing than the doorjamb sticker.
- Speedo $250 install labor free!
- You should be very careful when making mileage representations to a buyer, unless you have good evidence (ie photo above)
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
3) Purchase an entire dash cluster from a junkyard
- New odometer will start wherever it currently reads!
- No doorjamb sticker. Side-by-side photo would still be helpful to support mileage representation if you are brave enough to make one.
- True mileage is essentially unknown for a buyer.
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed
- Good opportunity to buy an upgraded cluster from a higher model vehicle!
- Cluster $100 install labor free!
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
In all cases;
- If you change the odo without notifying th BMV/DMV then you can be in BIG trouble
- If you sell the car and represent the new lower mileage as true then you are committing fraud and some states will jail you for this
- If you do not notify the BMV/DMV, and sell the car as-is without making a mileage representation ("No comment") then you are still in a legal minefield
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed, and it's legally dangerous because if the buyer can prove you underrepresented (even if you didn't!) then you can be sued for the value difference between what they paid and what a car of thier proven mileage would have cost. If you say; "It has 70k" and they can bring an "expert" in to show the car really probably had over 100k (even if it didn't, this is civil court not criminal court! Proof doesn't need to be 'Beyond resonable doubt', judgement is made based upon a 'preponderance of the evidence', ie who the judge believes) you are in trouble. If you say; "The true mileage is unknown, but I *believe* (not *know*) it to be near 70k" then you are a little safer. If you say "The true mileage is unknown, and I have no comment/cannot estimate the mileage" then you are safe.
- You may *NOT* adjust the new odo to your old reading. The BMV lady laughed when I asked about this and said; "Absolutely NOT!!" Even if you DID, you would still need a branded title/TMU and the buyer would know that you could have set the mileage at anything you like. It's actually better to start with a zero odo with proof of the switchover mileage.
Conclusion: If you intend to ever tade the car, and it will be worth more than 6k at trade in time (full value, without accounting for discrepancy) then the dealer-installed zero-miles odo with door sticker will make it much easier to trade the car to a dealer. It'll still lose value, just not as much. In the long run the $500 cost *may* be cheaper simply because the value may not completely plummet.
If you never intend to sell the car until you drive it into the ground, or inhereted by another family member, then I would get the full cluster. That is what I did with my Taurus. I had a base-level and got the cluster from an SE with rev counter and extra idiot lights. If you don't have, but want a white faced cluster, then this is your chance for about $100. If you sell the car, the value will be very low.
Your car just lost 50% of it's value...
I can tell you your options under Ohio law (to the best of my knowledge) based upone me replacing the odo in my Taurus a few years back... Your state may be similar. Parts and labor are what I was quoted by a Ford dealer for my Taurus - Maxima shouldn't be too different.
1) Take it to a dealer for a new odometer
- New odometer will start at zero
- Dealer-applied sticker inside drivers doorjamb reads; "Odometer replaced at xxx,xxx miles. Add this to current reading for true mileage"
- Speedo $250 Install labor $250
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- Door sticker provides a little legitimacy, but value of car still loses 50% as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- You may make a representation to a buyer of the mileage based upon the doorjamb sticker
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- Dealer may notify BMV/DMV - If they do not, it's your repsonsibility to.
2) Purchase new odometer from dealer, install yourself
- New odometer will start at zero
- NO doorjamb sticker. Previous reading will be 'lost'. You can try taking a dated photo of the two odos side by side out of the car to show when the switchover took place, but this is less convincing than the doorjamb sticker.
- Speedo $250 install labor free!
- You should be very careful when making mileage representations to a buyer, unless you have good evidence (ie photo above)
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- When selling, if asked about the mileage of the car, seller must be honest, or say; "I have no comment." For a private sale, if the purchaser assumes the dash reading to be true, you do not have to correct him.
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
3) Purchase an entire dash cluster from a junkyard
- New odometer will start wherever it currently reads!
- No doorjamb sticker. Side-by-side photo would still be helpful to support mileage representation if you are brave enough to make one.
- True mileage is essentially unknown for a buyer.
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed
- Good opportunity to buy an upgraded cluster from a higher model vehicle!
- Cluster $100 install labor free!
- Value loses at least 50%, as this car *officially* is an unknown mileage
- Title branded 'Odometer Discrepancy' with mileage reading set to "TMU" (True Mileage Unknown)
- You must report the odometer change to the BMV/DMV and have your title branded.
In all cases;
- If you change the odo without notifying th BMV/DMV then you can be in BIG trouble
- If you sell the car and represent the new lower mileage as true then you are committing fraud and some states will jail you for this
- If you do not notify the BMV/DMV, and sell the car as-is without making a mileage representation ("No comment") then you are still in a legal minefield
- If you do make a mileage representation, then understand you will probably not be believed, and it's legally dangerous because if the buyer can prove you underrepresented (even if you didn't!) then you can be sued for the value difference between what they paid and what a car of thier proven mileage would have cost. If you say; "It has 70k" and they can bring an "expert" in to show the car really probably had over 100k (even if it didn't, this is civil court not criminal court! Proof doesn't need to be 'Beyond resonable doubt', judgement is made based upon a 'preponderance of the evidence', ie who the judge believes) you are in trouble. If you say; "The true mileage is unknown, but I *believe* (not *know*) it to be near 70k" then you are a little safer. If you say "The true mileage is unknown, and I have no comment/cannot estimate the mileage" then you are safe.
- You may *NOT* adjust the new odo to your old reading. The BMV lady laughed when I asked about this and said; "Absolutely NOT!!" Even if you DID, you would still need a branded title/TMU and the buyer would know that you could have set the mileage at anything you like. It's actually better to start with a zero odo with proof of the switchover mileage.
Conclusion: If you intend to ever tade the car, and it will be worth more than 6k at trade in time (full value, without accounting for discrepancy) then the dealer-installed zero-miles odo with door sticker will make it much easier to trade the car to a dealer. It'll still lose value, just not as much. In the long run the $500 cost *may* be cheaper simply because the value may not completely plummet.
If you never intend to sell the car until you drive it into the ground, or inhereted by another family member, then I would get the full cluster. That is what I did with my Taurus. I had a base-level and got the cluster from an SE with rev counter and extra idiot lights. If you don't have, but want a white faced cluster, then this is your chance for about $100. If you sell the car, the value will be very low.
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