Tanman

To those with both the A/F meter and EGT meter, they both pretty much do the same thing: tell you if you're running rich or lean. So why have both? They look cool, but they aren't cheap, so I'm trying to figure out which to get.

Thanks,

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Cheaper a/f meters aren't nearly as accurate as a decent EGT probe. This is what I'm gathering here on the .org. So unless you invest in an expensive a/f, I would probably forgo that one and add something else in it's place. Fuel press, oil press, oil temp, water temp or whathaveyou

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Go with boost and EGT. If you want another one, go with fuel pressure. If you want an even number, go with oil pressure. If you want a number divisible by 10, get a water temp gauge.

Do you see the snow ball effect? Hehehe

Tanman

Cool, thanks for the information. I was planning on going with an Autometer electronic A/F meter for $49, but maybe not anymore. I notice the EGT meter costs $112, so you're right it's probably more accurate. The A/F meter does look cool though

Tanman

I plan on putting three on the left A-pillar, one on each side of the existing gauge cluster, and three in the console.

Just kidding.. I'll just have the three on the A-pillar. I already have a boost gauge, and it looks lonely all by itself on the A-pillar.

bullseye

I'd go with an electric Fuel Pressure Gauge and an electric EGT Gauge, which will probably require the separate purchase of an EGT Gauge Probe, about another $100. If you get Autometer Ultra-lite gauges from Summit, that'll come to about $400 or so.

Don't get mechanical gauges for the inside of your car. These require you to run hoses/lines inside the passenger compartment. No good. If you install electrical gauges, only a thin wire runs through the passenger compartment to the back of the gauge. That's good (& safe).

Cheap A/F meters only provide a light show. They are not quick nor accurate enough to do anything but. Good A/F meters come with their own broad-band sensors, and run $400+.

If you had *good* gauges for both EGT and A/F, you would have a redundant safety system to ensure your engine does not run too lean. If you were enjoying the benefits of an *expensive* boosted engine build-up, you might feel a redundant gauge set-up was well worth the added investment...

Good luck.

Tanman

Thanks for the information! Lots of it too.

I plan on getting the Autometer Ultra-Lite EGT meter with probe, but the one with the probe is a mechanical gauge. The EGT without probe is listed as an electrical gauge for about $10 less. Weird?

I also plan on getting an oil pressure or temp gauge, and a tranny temp gauge.

I don't really see the need for a fuel pressure gauge. What can you tell from it, if you're leaking gas or something? Sorry.

I might also get a new boost gauge that has PSI measurements instead of bar. My Greddy boost gauge shows bar and it's hard to see how much boost you are running.

irvine78

iTrader: (2)

EGT...

matt calder

iTrader: (2)

hehe, I Have chosen the even # route just short of being divisible by 10.

Go with the EGT gauge, unless you buy a Tomei or Greddy A/F gauge.

DAREN

iTrader: (3)

so who sells the good A/F guages?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Ooooo..... what else did you get?

Nitrous pressure, fuel pressure, EGT, and .....?

Tanman

I really like the look of the Autometer A/F gauge versus the dual needles on the Tomei gauge. Can't find a pic of the Greddy gauge.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

http://boostedmaximas.com/jane97se/i...ir_fuel_gauge/

Tanman

Cool, thanks for the link. That's where I saw the pic of the Tomei gauge

The Greddy and Tomei look good. I still prefer the look of the Autometer, but it's not worth it if it's not accurate.

So what's a good reading on the Greddy look like? 8, 9, 10,...?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

You will fluctuate when off boost... low 12's when boosting.