JAIMECBR900

First: I am installing my remote opener and have it almost figured out (bought it off ebay and the guy didn't send instructions eventhough it's new ).

My question is: Do I need a 3 position switch or is a regular "on/off" like I have for my activation and heater work? If I do need a 3 position switch, does anyone have a really brief description on how to wire it to the opener. The opener has only 3 wires; a black one (i bet is ground), a white one (i suspect is activation), and a red one (12v).


Second: I am currently running a 70 shot dry setup. I have 1 step colder NGK plats. I am probably going to go up to a slightly larger shot, maybe 80-100. I have been running rich, according to both the EGT and A/F gauge when under boost. (1000F on EGT, bottom 3 greens on the A/F).

My question is: Will changing back to my Iridiums (regular heat range) cause problems in both lean/rich or detonation? I was only speculating doing this because I have tried different jet combos in the bypass (fuel) and it doesn't seem to help. I was just thinking that the "hotter" plug may lean it out a bit compared to the colder plug. Should I or shouldn't I?

Everyone's comments are welcome.

matt calder

iTrader: (2)

I would only try the normal heat range plugs with the 70 shot, I would not put them in for a 100 shot though. I guess you could try it and if you are running to lean then just shut the car down.

I think the 2 postion switch would work with the bottle opener. On my bottle heater there are 3 prongs that come out from the switch and they are ground, activation, and 12v. So i dont see any reason why they would be different. Could be wrong though.

good luck

//M5'ver

Nice Ride ..

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

You need the momentary toggle switch. The switch stays in the middle. You push it up/down for a second then it will open/close the device. The up position could be open or close depends on how you wired the wires. The same goes for the down position. The black wire is the ground. The remote bottle opener is basically a soleniod.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Jaime I don't know anything about remote bottle openers, I just use my long arm and reach through the back seat opening, my bottle is right there.
On the plugs, I was told yesterday by the NX experts to run two ranges colder. Each range colder is supposed to reduce the temperature by several degrees and removes heat from the cylinder. I was also told not to run platinum because of the smaller electrode, the nitrous has a tendency to try and blow out the flame.
The only difference the colder plugs make on normal operation is idle a little rough until the engine gets up to temperature.
Jim

JAIMECBR900

That is exactly what I thought. I tested the opener by tapping it across my battery and it did act exactly as a solenoid. That is why i was thinking it needed the 3 position because the white wire would click it "on" with a positive shot but then wouldn't do anything unless I then tapped it on the negative side. Kinda on/off. Thanks for the quick response.

JAIMECBR900

Thank you. Nothing fancy on the outside, pretty juicy on the inside.

JAIMECBR900

Thanks as always Mr. Jime. I think I'm going to go and buy the copper NGK's to try out and I may stay only 1 step colder at first. Those plugs, if I can find them, are cheap enough to change out if I need to go colder.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I was runnng the BKR6E's gapped at .035 with my 100 shot but now I am going to BKR7E's as per above. I haven't tried them yet, had to order them this morning so should be able to try them this weekend. The 6's ran ok, nice color etc, I just decided to try out what the experts had to say.

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

Jime, one step is just fine for a 100shot because tha Maxima's ignition timing is VERY conservative. This allows more of the combustion gas's to escape the chamber before they have a chance to compress further and build up heat. Mustangs and Camaro's run more timing advance then we do and that recomendation would apply to them, IMHO. Two steps will cause a noticable power loss off the bottle also and some loss on the bottle. If you are going to try more than a 100 shot I would consider two steps. If you have an EGT gauge you can see the effects of colder plugs, when I went from one to two steps I dropped ~30c in EGT temps and power was off also. I went back to one step and all is well.

Jamie, what is your bottle pressure? Do you have a heater? Inconsistant bottle pressure will cause a/f mixture problems.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

so I guess with all the traction and better numbers, might as well try the 80-100 shot , HUH?

Soon to be in the low [ insert great 1/4 time here ] maybe high [ insert very LOW 1/4 time here]..I am looking forward to watching this play out my friend

JAIMECBR900

The pressure at the bottle is always at or slightly above 900psi. I do have a bottle heater w/thermostat and blanket.

I think I am running rich because of the low EGT readings and the A/F gauge, which I installed with a separate O2 sensor (it's own)) is also confirming this because the bottom 3 greens (there's 5 total before it gets to orange) are the only ones that light up when under boost. N/A lights up only the top 2 just before the orange, so N/a is running a little leaner than boosted. 1000F is just too low even with the placement of the probe slightly further downstream than right in the front bank.

JAIMECBR900

You out of all people should know that too much is never enough. My luck is going to be that I'm going to screw up a good thing by messing with the current setup. Oh well, only one way to find out.

JAIMECBR900

One more thing guys. I went ahead and got everything in but still can't figure out the switch.

The opener came with a 3 wire "loom". A red, white, and black. I pretty much know what they each need to be hooked up to. Problem comes in that I noticed in testing the opener itself before hooking it up, it is basically a solenoid. The only way I could actuate it was to reverse the polarity. In other words, red=pos. black=neg. white=activation opens; red=neg black=pos. white=activation it closes. I tried a three pos. switch and can't figure out HOW to wire it. I tried a regular on/off switch and it didn't work in any configuration.

Can someone please tell me how to do it correctly?

CalsonicSE

iTrader: (3)

Okay, here goes.

Attached to the remote bottle valve/solenoid/opener are three wires, correct? Black, red, and white.

The toggle switch has three prongs, correct?

The black wire connects to one END of the prongs on the toggle switch. The red wire connects to the other END of the prongs on the toggle switch. For, the remaining CENTER prong on the toggle switch, you should connect that to battery(+) And for the white wire on the bottle opener, you should connect that to battery(-) or ground.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

jamie I am trying to help here just on the electrical side. Using a 2 postion switch, ON/OFF being OPEN/CLOSED , what about BLACK = GND , WHT to one side of the switch, RED to the other side ?

Using a 3 postion switch, ON/OFF/NONE thus OPEN/CLOSED/Not USED, I would think the WHT one would be the wire that makes contact with EITHER, black or red..depending on what you need to open or close and then middle postion not used..if this don't make sense call me..i am working nights..and if that don't help I can come over

JAIMECBR900

I tried with both a toggle and a 3 pos switch. The funky thing is that when I tested it (I bought off ebay, so I wanted to make sure it worked eventhough it looked new) I noticed that the only way to make the solenoid "tick" on/off was to reverse the polarity. I've been told that I need to go to RadioShack and buy a momentary 3 position switch. I'm going to try that today and let you know.

BTW, baggy; I'm getting my tunes put in next week. So much for running deeper into the 13's, huh? Oh well, I'm tired of stock radio when I've got good stuff just laying around. If you run across someone wanting to buy some good stereo stuff, I've got more than I need at the house. I just kept buying and couldn't make up my mind as to what to put in. Now I've got amps, subs, and stuff just sitting in their boxes at the house.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

I'll keep a look out.. I might buy something.. don't have the $$$ but that never stopped me

JAIMECBR900

Let me know. I've got a pair of brand new in the box Kicker Free air 12's, I've got a pair of used Orion XTR 12's, I've got a mack daddy Orion HCCA 250 amp, and some misc stereo stuff (cap, distribution block, fuse blocks, etc.). It's just sitting around, so let me know if you or anyone else you run across is interested.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

what size cap? That I might do very soon

Ramius83

Jaime, as said very early in the thread, you NEED to have that momentary switch. What it does is whenever you click the bottle on and off, it sends a 12 volt signal (either + or -) to the opener and it either closes or opens. Well, think of it this way. If you jsut got and on/off switch, it will be constantly running a 12 volt signal to that opener, causing your battery to go dead. My battery went dead a few times on me and I had no idea why. I looked at the switch and I had it locked on off (because the switch has a switch cover to close it). So it was running a constant 12 volts to the opener, therefore it drained my battery.

As for the plugs, I would not run the regular plugs in the 100 shot. That would just be too harsh for your engine. I really do think that you are not running rich, I just think that that combo between the egt gauge and the a/f gauge, you are "thinking" you are running rich. Try doing some runs, ignoring the a/f gauge, and just looking at your temperature readings. When off the bottle, record your temps at WOT. Then when on the bottle, it should stay the same or go 1-150 degrees hotter at WOT, this is when you have the proper fuel pressure. If it goes slightly lower or goes significantly higher, than you know you are running rich/lean.

Post back if you have more questions....

JAIMECBR900

I got a momentary switch. Problem is I can't figure out the way to wire it. The opener has 3 wires, and the switch has 6 poles. I know that probably the 3 poles on one side go together and the other 3 go with each other. The part I can't figure out is the wiring of that stupid switch.

CalsonicSE

iTrader: (3)

why does your switch have 6 prongs? my toggle switch has only 3...

Ramius83

Same here. When I get home today, I will try to find and scan in my instructions for the remote bottle opener. Give me 8 hours lol.......

JAIMECBR900

That would be absolutely perfect if you would scan that for me. I have been on the phone all morning trying to get someone to do that. NOS tech line is not open on the weekends.

BTW, I haven't been able to find a 3 prong momentary switch at radio shack. The only one they had was a 6 prong momentary. Should I be looking elsewhere for one. I have a regular 3 pole toggle, but I don't think that's going to work. I put a meter on the 6 prong and the prongs work much like a relay does. When flipped one way (it's momentary so it doesn't stay there) it contacts two of the prongs (the middle one and one of the corner ones), when flipped the other way it contacts the other two (the middle one again and the opposite corner). Know what I mean.

Maybe if you scan the instructions for me I can see better how to wire this stupid switch that's driving me nuts. Erik, can you hear the opener "clicking" on and off? How do you know it's working at all? In other words, when you hit your switch, do you audibly hear something happen or it just does?

CalsonicSE

iTrader: (3)

If you hear it clicking open and close, that prob. means it's working. It's a pretty loud click, BTW. I can hear it in the trunk when I'm sitting in the drivers seat.

The instructions I gave you on the first page of this thread are from the NOS remote bottle opener instruction sheet. I'll try to scan it for you though.

Ramius83

Here you go.....

Bags

iTrader: (3)

way to go ramius..when is the project starting?

Ramius83

Shhhh, parents might see this lol....

It will be starting in the last week of this month, that Sunday and Monday. Now I am just waiting on that JWT Stage 2 Clutch and the Place Racing Engine Mounts to come in...

I will let you all know when and where I am doing it at so you can stop by if you want....But you won't because it is "too far for you all "

JAIMECBR900

Ramius83 the scan of the instructions is absolutely perfect. The reason why my wiring was not working was that I was connecting the white wire wrong. I will try and re-wire tonight and let you know.

BTW, I would be very willing to come out your way and lend a little wrench time when you're ready. Let me know if you need anything at all. If you tell me when you are planning on wrenching on sweetness, I could come by and spend a few hours getting dirty. Just let me know seriously.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Hey when I am NOT down for the drive. I will help anyway I can my friend.

Let me know..you got my number

Ramius83

Ok Bags and Jamie, I will let you know when and where. I will keep you posted.....