Kevin Wong

Ok, so I've had my share of brake experience this past year. I've worked on 2 Big Brake systems on my 97 Max, changed the rotors and pads to my 89 Mazda 626, changed pads on a 97 Civic, 90 Accord, and a 94 BMW 3.28. The reason I list my brake jobs is because this time last year, I never touched a brake component and had no idea how to change brake pads.

So last September, Ogredave and I installed a set of the Wilwood Big Brake kit from Fastbrakes. I had a little trouble after the install with the settling of the system. After a month of tinkering and reinstalling the brakelines, the kit was great. I had to use an 8mm spacer for my 00' 17X8 50mm GS400 wheels since they didn't clear the calipers. I got sick of the wheel vibratations at above 50 MPH so I looked in getting a set of new wheels. I won an auction on eBay for a set of 17X8 32mm SSR Integrals. I thought these would definitely clear, but because of the spoke design they barely cleared. This was not a probably until I really hit the brakes, the caliper would pull a little to the outside and skim the spokes of my wheels. I placed a washer for each lug between the mounting hat and the wheel. This worked out great. But I later felt like I should get off the washers, it just didn't sound like the best setup.

I bought the Brembo Gran Turismo kit off of an org member for a really good price. He had them for sale for about 2 months, no takers, and needed to sell them. I decided to commit after my CD matured at the bank. A week later they came (along with a full sized spare 17X8 SSR Integral with brand new tire). I installed the kit the very next day after a day of prepping the kit (painting the vanes silver to minimize rusting [thanks Chunger], fine sanding the rotors, and cleaning and compressing the calipers). The install only took me 40 minutes from beginning to end with just the basic hand tools. These brakes are amazing...about 30% better than stock and just a smidge better than the Wilwoods. This may be because the Brembo has 13" drilled rotors and the Wilwood kit has just 12.2" blank rotors. As for clearance, the Brembo calipers barely clear my wheels, but it's just enough. The caliper doesn't budge at all upon heavy braking so it's all good. The kit retails for $2,800 and some distributors sell them for just under $2,000. The Wilwood kit is now $1,024. I took the gamble with used brakes, but I'm glad I did.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Any pictures or General tips on changing brake pads yourself?

I'm trying to decide if I should practice on my Sentra(needs new rotors/pads) or just pay someone to do it. I kind of want to do it myself, so that if everything goes ok, I can attempt the pads, SS lines, and fluid on my 2001.

Thanks.

Kevin Wong

Brake lines may be more work than they are worth. They are great and all, but the lines by far took me the longest to install. Removing and installing them to the caliper is no problem, but removing them to the metal lines of the car is a pain in the butt. As far as pads go with disc brakes, you just remove the wheel, turn your steering wheel to better situate the inside of the caliper, remove the bottom bolt (usually a 12mm) pull the bolt out and the caliper slides up. You remove the pads by hand, open the brake fluid resevoir, take a "C" clamp and a piece of wood, and compress the piston on the caliper back in. But some anti-brake squeal on the back of each pad and install.

For the rotors, the calipers have to be removed. No problem, just do the steps above with the addition of remove the upper bolt on the caliper. Caliper should come off and just tie or place the caliper up on the strut. Next remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bindings. The rotor should come off with a little bit of force, careful though, you don't want to strip any of your lugs. Some rotors have a hole that you can screw an 8mm bolt into to force the rotor out.

As a general rule, you should not replace both new rotors and pads at the same time. You should do one and then the other after a few miles of driving. This is to allow proper bedding of the pads and rotors. After the install, just drive around the neighborhood with light stops from 20 MPH, step it up to 30 and then 40. Braking should increase from light to medium. Drive around slowly to let the brakes cool and you're set.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Sweet. I saw some big brake for sale here and wondered if someone was gonna step up. And those SSRs. *whew* huh?

maxima4me

I had NEVER touched my brakes until 3 weeks ago, when I changed out my rotors & pads (rotors were warped, pads were squealing) It's a straight-forwards DIY job. No problems, just be ready to get a little dirty. If you have any questions feel free to PM or e-mail me. I have a '96, but I'm assuming it's generally the same process.

GL

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

I'm going to try my Sentra first.

Any CAUTION steps I should watch out for, besides using jack stands?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

You know how to properly flush/bleed your calipers and maybe master cylinder? If not, I would leave it to a qualified shop. Or have a trusted buddy come help.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Or use a home made brake pressure bleeder, unless of course it's made by your trusted buddy and it doesn't work right.....

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Note: Don't let noobie mechanics use sophisticated complex tools made by Master Ninji craftsmen of Eastern descent.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

No. I thought it was simple though.

1)Suck out all the old fluid in the reservior.
2)Fill the reservior with Motul and keep it full while bleeding.
3)Use a hand vacuum pump thingy till you see red Motul come through.
4)Move to the next wheel.

You start with the rear wheels first right?
Is it more difficult than that?
What kind of hand vacuum pump thingy do I need?

I have a Hanes/Chitlons' manual for my Sentra. I figured I could get by on that project, but if I ran into any trouble I would have the Max professionally done.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Especially at 1 AM.....

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Yeah that's it. You can certianly use the vacuum pump . But I made my own and modified it for Nissan use.

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure?

You made it sound harder than that. I thought the hardest part would be getting the pads seated and everything in alignment, so nothing squeeked or rubbed. What I said is all THEORETICAL in my head and I'm betting on the fact that it's easy to figure out once your in there.

Any recommended NON-homemade bleeders for a reasonable price?

Thanks for the help!

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Am I sure about what? Yes, I'm pretty sure I made my own pressure bleeder. (I kinda remember that stuff)

Well brake jobs aren't that hard in general if you have done them before. After the first time, it's easy. But bleeding brakes, while not hard, is a very important thing to get right the FIRST time. That's all I'm saying. Thus maybe a buddy should help.

There are many inexpensive VACUUM type bleeders. Mitivac has a good one I hear. You can use it to test other vacuum related stuff too.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Ok.