Pretty definitive information on Bose stereos, speakers, & amplifiers. . . (LONG!!!)
12-07-2000, 12:34 AM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 134
I was on the 300ZX forum (www.twinturbo.net), and I found the following information on the Bose stereos. Granted, it pertains to the 300ZX models, so take that in mind--esp. when they mention their speaker sizes and 5th central speaker. It's from a previous engineer that worked at Bose. I think that you'll find the general information on how Bose makes their stereos/speakers/amps quite helpful in learning more about your stock stereos and any potential fixes or upgrades that you may make. I thought about just providing the link, but I think it'll be helpful to post the full text here as well:
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FA.../boseinfo.html
"I worked for BOSE in the late '80's as a Manufacturing Engineer, and now that I have a '90 NA Coupe, I thought I'd attempt a single comprehensive discussion to address all the BOSE questions I often see here.
As for power output, I'm embarrassed that I don't have the exact spec, but it's not much more than 15-20 watts rms per speaker [personal note--the 4th gen Maximas have 200 watt systems (i.e. 50 watts/speaker)--Maxima95GLE]. Unless already familiar with the required math, though, these figures can't really be compared with other aftermarket equipment. BOSE generally uses speakers with an impedence of roughly 1 ohm, compared to the common 4-ohm rating on most widely available components. The BOSE speaker places far less load on the amplifier, allowing lower power output to be used to achieve a given volume level [thus higher efficiency--Maxima95GLE]. A BOSE power spec would be rated at the lower impedence, but if connected to a 4-ohm speaker, the actual output would drop significantly [known as impedence mismatching--Maxima95GLE]. If BOSE speakers are connected to a conventional amp, it'll most likely destroy the speaker AND fry the amp. Most conventional amps can't handle the 1-ohm load. DO NOT TEST THIS THEORY UNLESS YOU HAVE DISPOSABLE COMPONENTS!
If considering upgrading the stereo, understand some of the system design elements. Each BOSE amplifier contains active equalization circuitry tailored to the specific driver (not you, the speaker!) characteristics and the location of each original BOSE speaker. In addition, the speakers are mounted in ported enclosures (the big, odd-shaped black plastic boxes). The air volume and port tube (hole in box where the air comes out when the speaker's working) size are designed to resonate at a specific frequency to enhance the bass response of the BOSE driver. If mounting aftermarket speakers in the stock enclosures, use aftermarket amplification, and it'll take a fair amount of effort to achieve a good physical fit due to BOSE's unique speaker sizing.
The rear 6 1/2" isn't bad, although because the speaker is covered up so much, it won't get very good highs without a separate tweeter placement. Luckily, unless using rear speakers only, most of the stereo imaging in a well-designed system should come from the front speakers anyway. This produces the desired front-biased soundstage, and a good coaxial will suffice for rear fill. Note that these are simply the most commonly held opinions of how car audio should sound. There are many other theories, so use your own ears. I personally prefer the sharp detail of separates all around!
The front 3 1/2" presents more of a problem, and doesn't allow for an easy direct replacement [MaximaGLE95 note: 4th gen Maximas have 6 1/2" front speakers]. With modification, 4", 5", or 6 1/2" speakers can fit, preferably with separate tweeters mounted in the dash (better imaging than door-mounted tweeters). Experiment with plugging the port tubes to see what gives the best sound with the new speakers. Due to these unique aspects of the BOSE design, simply adding 4-ohm aftermarket speakers to the BOSE system doesn't work very well. The sound would be weak and have terrible frequency response. Spend a little money and avoid the hassle, these installation difficulties are easily overcome by any good professional installer.
BOSE manufactures their own speaker drivers, enclosures, and amplifiers from scratch, using their own proprietary specifications, which make them incompatible with the general aftermarket. The head units however, are relatively standard DIN chassis, sourced from quality manufacturers like Panasonic (the heads BOSE used to sell in their old BOSE-branded retail systems), and Clarion for Nissans and Alpine for Hondas (It's been awhile, so I might be wrong on one or two of these, but they're all familiar brands). They're not high-end components, but they're certainly solid enough for a modest system if they're still working properly. It's possible to get adapters for these through stereo shops to keep the stock head unit and upgrade the amps and speakers.
In creating their OEM systems, BOSE designs each system individually for the intended model. A special dummy head with electronic "ears" is actually placed in each seat at proper listening height to gather acoustic data that's processed by computer in an effort to achieve the desired sound curve. The Z's particular interior acoustic characteristics were analyzed, and equalization curves are set on the individual amplifiers to provide proper frequency response and stereo imaging for the occupants' listening positions. Some systems, like our Z's, even use a fifth speaker as a front center channel. This compensates for the loss in imaging that occurs due to the fact that the speaker on the door is much closer to your ears than the speaker on the opposite door!
In general, the BOSE system is a decent quality OE system that uses some interesting acoustic technology to achieve reasonably good frequency response and nice stereo imaging at low-to-moderate volume levels, but its "crankability" is pretty weak [Maxima95GLE: however, I think that the 5th gen Maxes are rather crankable w/ their subwoofers on the rear shelf]. The end result is technically, pretty good sound, but not everyone necessarily agrees with BOSE's (as defined by Dr. Amar Bose himself) definition of goodness. It is definitely NOT, nor was it intended to be, as kick-*** as with aftermarket components, but IF everything is still working properly, it's a pretty good system for those with modest audio needs. For those that want to make truly satisfying upgrades, plan on replacing the entire system, like I am.
Oh, I almost forgot, the loud scratch and pop sounds that occur when turning any electronic volume **** are almost always due to oxidatation of the volume pot (potentiometer). Huh? The internals of the volume control get dirty or corroded and can't make good electrical contact. Get some 'Tuner Cleaner' from any electronics store (Radio Shack), then remove the volume **** and try spraying a LITTLE bit down along the volume shaft. It needs to get inside the part that actually rotates when turning the volume ****. I haven't done this on my Z yet, so I don't know how difficult it is to get enough fluid into the right places (and out of the wrong places!), but I do have the symptom, and I know the sound well from my guitar amps. This is a common electrical problem in many devices, and tuner cleaner is usually the best fix short of dis-assembly." END.
------
Last note, the article pertains to the 1990-1996 300ZX's, and stereo/speaker technology has advanced in the past few years, so keep that thought in mind as well. I think that the Bose stereo will satisfy most users out there, but they definitely wouldn't stand up to a well pieced together aftermarket system. If the stock bass isn't adequate for you, it seems like simply adding a subwoofer to the stock BOSE stereo (3rd and 4th gens) will make you more than satisfied with the output.
[Edited by Maxima95GLE on 12-07-2000 at 12:00 PM]
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FA.../boseinfo.html
"I worked for BOSE in the late '80's as a Manufacturing Engineer, and now that I have a '90 NA Coupe, I thought I'd attempt a single comprehensive discussion to address all the BOSE questions I often see here.
As for power output, I'm embarrassed that I don't have the exact spec, but it's not much more than 15-20 watts rms per speaker [personal note--the 4th gen Maximas have 200 watt systems (i.e. 50 watts/speaker)--Maxima95GLE]. Unless already familiar with the required math, though, these figures can't really be compared with other aftermarket equipment. BOSE generally uses speakers with an impedence of roughly 1 ohm, compared to the common 4-ohm rating on most widely available components. The BOSE speaker places far less load on the amplifier, allowing lower power output to be used to achieve a given volume level [thus higher efficiency--Maxima95GLE]. A BOSE power spec would be rated at the lower impedence, but if connected to a 4-ohm speaker, the actual output would drop significantly [known as impedence mismatching--Maxima95GLE]. If BOSE speakers are connected to a conventional amp, it'll most likely destroy the speaker AND fry the amp. Most conventional amps can't handle the 1-ohm load. DO NOT TEST THIS THEORY UNLESS YOU HAVE DISPOSABLE COMPONENTS!
If considering upgrading the stereo, understand some of the system design elements. Each BOSE amplifier contains active equalization circuitry tailored to the specific driver (not you, the speaker!) characteristics and the location of each original BOSE speaker. In addition, the speakers are mounted in ported enclosures (the big, odd-shaped black plastic boxes). The air volume and port tube (hole in box where the air comes out when the speaker's working) size are designed to resonate at a specific frequency to enhance the bass response of the BOSE driver. If mounting aftermarket speakers in the stock enclosures, use aftermarket amplification, and it'll take a fair amount of effort to achieve a good physical fit due to BOSE's unique speaker sizing.
The rear 6 1/2" isn't bad, although because the speaker is covered up so much, it won't get very good highs without a separate tweeter placement. Luckily, unless using rear speakers only, most of the stereo imaging in a well-designed system should come from the front speakers anyway. This produces the desired front-biased soundstage, and a good coaxial will suffice for rear fill. Note that these are simply the most commonly held opinions of how car audio should sound. There are many other theories, so use your own ears. I personally prefer the sharp detail of separates all around!
The front 3 1/2" presents more of a problem, and doesn't allow for an easy direct replacement [MaximaGLE95 note: 4th gen Maximas have 6 1/2" front speakers]. With modification, 4", 5", or 6 1/2" speakers can fit, preferably with separate tweeters mounted in the dash (better imaging than door-mounted tweeters). Experiment with plugging the port tubes to see what gives the best sound with the new speakers. Due to these unique aspects of the BOSE design, simply adding 4-ohm aftermarket speakers to the BOSE system doesn't work very well. The sound would be weak and have terrible frequency response. Spend a little money and avoid the hassle, these installation difficulties are easily overcome by any good professional installer.
BOSE manufactures their own speaker drivers, enclosures, and amplifiers from scratch, using their own proprietary specifications, which make them incompatible with the general aftermarket. The head units however, are relatively standard DIN chassis, sourced from quality manufacturers like Panasonic (the heads BOSE used to sell in their old BOSE-branded retail systems), and Clarion for Nissans and Alpine for Hondas (It's been awhile, so I might be wrong on one or two of these, but they're all familiar brands). They're not high-end components, but they're certainly solid enough for a modest system if they're still working properly. It's possible to get adapters for these through stereo shops to keep the stock head unit and upgrade the amps and speakers.
In creating their OEM systems, BOSE designs each system individually for the intended model. A special dummy head with electronic "ears" is actually placed in each seat at proper listening height to gather acoustic data that's processed by computer in an effort to achieve the desired sound curve. The Z's particular interior acoustic characteristics were analyzed, and equalization curves are set on the individual amplifiers to provide proper frequency response and stereo imaging for the occupants' listening positions. Some systems, like our Z's, even use a fifth speaker as a front center channel. This compensates for the loss in imaging that occurs due to the fact that the speaker on the door is much closer to your ears than the speaker on the opposite door!
In general, the BOSE system is a decent quality OE system that uses some interesting acoustic technology to achieve reasonably good frequency response and nice stereo imaging at low-to-moderate volume levels, but its "crankability" is pretty weak [Maxima95GLE: however, I think that the 5th gen Maxes are rather crankable w/ their subwoofers on the rear shelf]. The end result is technically, pretty good sound, but not everyone necessarily agrees with BOSE's (as defined by Dr. Amar Bose himself) definition of goodness. It is definitely NOT, nor was it intended to be, as kick-*** as with aftermarket components, but IF everything is still working properly, it's a pretty good system for those with modest audio needs. For those that want to make truly satisfying upgrades, plan on replacing the entire system, like I am.
Oh, I almost forgot, the loud scratch and pop sounds that occur when turning any electronic volume **** are almost always due to oxidatation of the volume pot (potentiometer). Huh? The internals of the volume control get dirty or corroded and can't make good electrical contact. Get some 'Tuner Cleaner' from any electronics store (Radio Shack), then remove the volume **** and try spraying a LITTLE bit down along the volume shaft. It needs to get inside the part that actually rotates when turning the volume ****. I haven't done this on my Z yet, so I don't know how difficult it is to get enough fluid into the right places (and out of the wrong places!), but I do have the symptom, and I know the sound well from my guitar amps. This is a common electrical problem in many devices, and tuner cleaner is usually the best fix short of dis-assembly." END.
------
Last note, the article pertains to the 1990-1996 300ZX's, and stereo/speaker technology has advanced in the past few years, so keep that thought in mind as well. I think that the Bose stereo will satisfy most users out there, but they definitely wouldn't stand up to a well pieced together aftermarket system. If the stock bass isn't adequate for you, it seems like simply adding a subwoofer to the stock BOSE stereo (3rd and 4th gens) will make you more than satisfied with the output.
[Edited by Maxima95GLE on 12-07-2000 at 12:00 PM]
12-07-2000, 09:44 AM
#2
Thx for the BOSE
Thanks for that wonderful post Maxima95GLE!
I'm a big fan of the BOSE system in the car. Yeah, reliabaility sucks (in fact mine is starting to show the signs of breaking up), but the fact that its tuned to your car makes for a very well rounded system. I have some friends who've done not too heavy duty stereo conversions in their car. When I compare them to my Bose, I find that my Bose is not as powerful, but it is still powerfull and loud enough. One interesting thing, is that even tho those aftermarket systems may go louder, cleaner etc, I've never found an aftermarket system that did it all at the same time. One guy has a system that sounds really clean and loud, but My Bose goes lower on the bass. Another guy has so much bass he had to install a beefier trunk lock
But hey, all that bass may be good for short bursts, I bet he can't listen to his system for hours at time, and if he can, he's probably already half deaf!
To really get an aftermarket system that better than the BOSE, the minimum investment would have to be about 3 grand, most of that expense coming from tuning the system to your vehicle. Given that the Bose was an $899 option from the factory, it ain't half bad.
DW
I'm a big fan of the BOSE system in the car. Yeah, reliabaility sucks (in fact mine is starting to show the signs of breaking up), but the fact that its tuned to your car makes for a very well rounded system. I have some friends who've done not too heavy duty stereo conversions in their car. When I compare them to my Bose, I find that my Bose is not as powerful, but it is still powerfull and loud enough. One interesting thing, is that even tho those aftermarket systems may go louder, cleaner etc, I've never found an aftermarket system that did it all at the same time. One guy has a system that sounds really clean and loud, but My Bose goes lower on the bass. Another guy has so much bass he had to install a beefier trunk lock
But hey, all that bass may be good for short bursts, I bet he can't listen to his system for hours at time, and if he can, he's probably already half deaf!To really get an aftermarket system that better than the BOSE, the minimum investment would have to be about 3 grand, most of that expense coming from tuning the system to your vehicle. Given that the Bose was an $899 option from the factory, it ain't half bad.
DW
12-07-2000, 09:44 AM
#3
Thx for the BOSE
Thanks for that wonderful post Maxima95GLE!
I'm a big fan of the BOSE system in the car. Yeah, reliabaility sucks (in fact mine is starting to show the signs of breaking up), but the fact that its tuned to your car makes for a very well rounded system. I have some friends who've done not too heavy duty stereo conversions in their car. When I compare them to my Bose, I find that my Bose is not as powerful, but it is still powerfull and loud enough. One interesting thing, is that even tho those aftermarket systems may go louder, cleaner etc, I've never found an aftermarket system that did it all at the same time. One guy has a system that sounds really clean and loud, but My Bose goes lower on the bass. Another guy has so much bass he had to install a beefier trunk lock But hey, all that bass may be good for short bursts, I bet he can't listen to his system for hours at time, and if he can, he's probably already half deaf!
To really get an aftermarket system that better than the BOSE, the minimum investment would have to be about 3 grand, most of that expense coming from tuning the system to your vehicle. Given that the Bose was an $899 option from the factory, it ain't half bad.
DW
I'm a big fan of the BOSE system in the car. Yeah, reliabaility sucks (in fact mine is starting to show the signs of breaking up), but the fact that its tuned to your car makes for a very well rounded system. I have some friends who've done not too heavy duty stereo conversions in their car. When I compare them to my Bose, I find that my Bose is not as powerful, but it is still powerfull and loud enough. One interesting thing, is that even tho those aftermarket systems may go louder, cleaner etc, I've never found an aftermarket system that did it all at the same time. One guy has a system that sounds really clean and loud, but My Bose goes lower on the bass. Another guy has so much bass he had to install a beefier trunk lock
But hey, all that bass may be good for short bursts, I bet he can't listen to his system for hours at time, and if he can, he's probably already half deaf!To really get an aftermarket system that better than the BOSE, the minimum investment would have to be about 3 grand, most of that expense coming from tuning the system to your vehicle. Given that the Bose was an $899 option from the factory, it ain't half bad.
DW
12-07-2000, 11:02 AM
#4
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Posts: n/a
i'm not saying he's wrong
but i have the two front bose speakers and two aftermarket speakers in the rear on a cheap a$$ aftermarket amp, and it sounds great. the amp doesn't give any problems. and it's been hooked up like this for i while now. i'm waiting for it to burn out the amp so my mom could buy me a new one. she wont buy me one if the amp i have still works.
it could have something to do with the fact that there's no bass going into the amp. just highs and mids, all my bass is coming from the subs.
it could have something to do with the fact that there's no bass going into the amp. just highs and mids, all my bass is coming from the subs.
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