Changed oil to Mobil1 15-50 & problems
07-01-2002, 12:50 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by BrianV
Ok well is it really really really necessary to change it immediately. That's $25 of brand new oil. Can it wait until this weekend?
Also, this morning I drove it on the interstate and it seemed smooth and wasn't making the sounds.
Ok well is it really really really necessary to change it immediately. That's $25 of brand new oil. Can it wait until this weekend?
Also, this morning I drove it on the interstate and it seemed smooth and wasn't making the sounds.
the choice is yourssssssssssssssssss... captain planet.. he is a hero.. going ot take polution down to zero...
07-01-2002, 01:12 PM
#42
Originally posted by BrianV
Ok well is it really really really necessary to change it immediately. That's $25 of brand new oil. Can it wait until this weekend?
Also, this morning I drove it on the interstate and it seemed smooth and wasn't making the sounds.
Ok well is it really really really necessary to change it immediately. That's $25 of brand new oil. Can it wait until this weekend?
Also, this morning I drove it on the interstate and it seemed smooth and wasn't making the sounds.
07-01-2002, 02:24 PM
#44
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
IMHO, leave it in their till the weekend and just take it easy on the motor. Dont floor it or go over 3000rpms and you should be fine. IMHO
IMHO, leave it in their till the weekend and just take it easy on the motor. Dont floor it or go over 3000rpms and you should be fine. IMHO
07-01-2002, 04:39 PM
#47
5-30's in, car is quieter, smoother, and appears to be more responsive.
At the store, I saw this new Mobil-1 though. It's a darker grey bottle and it advertises that it is the regular mobil1 with extra detergent to clean the engine and make it last longer (typical claims, better mpg, more power).
Anyone familiar with this new mobil1? It's in just about every viscosity. This is on top of their new quote-on-quote supersync technology they're advertising on all their bottles.
At the store, I saw this new Mobil-1 though. It's a darker grey bottle and it advertises that it is the regular mobil1 with extra detergent to clean the engine and make it last longer (typical claims, better mpg, more power).
Anyone familiar with this new mobil1? It's in just about every viscosity. This is on top of their new quote-on-quote supersync technology they're advertising on all their bottles.
07-01-2002, 04:48 PM
#48
Originally posted by BrianV
5-30's in, car is quieter, smoother, and appears to be more responsive.
At the store, I saw this new Mobil-1 though. It's a darker grey bottle and it advertises that it is the regular mobil1 with extra detergent to clean the engine and make it last longer (typical claims, better mpg, more power).
Anyone familiar with this new mobil1? It's in just about every viscosity. This is on top of their new quote-on-quote supersync technology they're advertising on all their bottles.
5-30's in, car is quieter, smoother, and appears to be more responsive.
At the store, I saw this new Mobil-1 though. It's a darker grey bottle and it advertises that it is the regular mobil1 with extra detergent to clean the engine and make it last longer (typical claims, better mpg, more power).
Anyone familiar with this new mobil1? It's in just about every viscosity. This is on top of their new quote-on-quote supersync technology they're advertising on all their bottles.
07-01-2002, 05:23 PM
#49
Originally posted by iwannabmw
That sounds like Mobil's new formula. They aren't making Tri-Synthetic anymore, their new one is the "patented SuperSyn Anti-Wear System". The changed their formula to meet the new "SL" standard and are also trying to be more forward looking over the next few years. They're still playing catch-up to Amsoil though.
That sounds like Mobil's new formula. They aren't making Tri-Synthetic anymore, their new one is the "patented SuperSyn Anti-Wear System". The changed their formula to meet the new "SL" standard and are also trying to be more forward looking over the next few years. They're still playing catch-up to Amsoil though.
07-01-2002, 07:05 PM
#50
Originally posted by BrianV
No all their oils are that SuperSyn system. This is a different bottle, it's darker grey and it says liek Mobil1 5w-30 Cleaning Oil or something. It advertises cleaning and longer lasting, and blah blah
No all their oils are that SuperSyn system. This is a different bottle, it's darker grey and it says liek Mobil1 5w-30 Cleaning Oil or something. It advertises cleaning and longer lasting, and blah blah
07-01-2002, 07:18 PM
#51
Originally posted by iwannabmw
Oh, okay, that's their "Drive Clean" blend.
Oh, okay, that's their "Drive Clean" blend.
Empirically, that's a pretty good synthetic blend, unlike the Syntec Blend that's garbage compared Mobil 1's.....
07-01-2002, 11:29 PM
#52
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Empirically, that's a pretty good synthetic blend, unlike the Syntec Blend that's garbage compared Mobil 1's.....
Empirically, that's a pretty good synthetic blend, unlike the Syntec Blend that's garbage compared Mobil 1's.....
07-02-2002, 05:41 AM
#53
Originally posted by BrianV
Well it's not a hybrid blend, it is actually a fully synthetic to my knowledge. At any rate, is it any good, is it worth using over the straight 5-30 Mobil 1?
Well it's not a hybrid blend, it is actually a fully synthetic to my knowledge. At any rate, is it any good, is it worth using over the straight 5-30 Mobil 1?
Yes, it is a blend. Mobil 1 makes:
Drive Clean Conventional Dino
Drive Clean Part Synthetic Blend
SuperSyn Full Synthetic
Personally, I don't like synthetic blends. That does not mean it won't work fine for you. I would just rather buy Castrol GTX or a good synthetic such as Amsoil or Mobil 1.
07-02-2002, 07:05 AM
#54
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Yes, it is a blend.
Mobil 1 makes:
Drive Clean Conventional Dino
Drive Clean Part Synthetic Blend
SuperSyn Full Synthetic
Personally, I don't like synthetic blends. That does not mean it won't work fine for you. I would just rather buy Castrol GTX or a good synthetic such as Amsoil or Mobil 1.
Yes, it is a blend. Mobil 1 makes:
Drive Clean Conventional Dino
Drive Clean Part Synthetic Blend
SuperSyn Full Synthetic
Personally, I don't like synthetic blends. That does not mean it won't work fine for you. I would just rather buy Castrol GTX or a good synthetic such as Amsoil or Mobil 1.
07-02-2002, 07:13 AM
#55
Originally posted by iwannabmw
I agree. If you want the benefits of a synthetic, you buy a synthetic. If you don't care, just use conventional. The blends, IMO, don't offer enough advantages to offset the price increase.
I agree. If you want the benefits of a synthetic, you buy a synthetic. If you don't care, just use conventional. The blends, IMO, don't offer enough advantages to offset the price increase.
TBN: 9.1
Castrol Syntec and Valvoline SynPower aren't much better, at 10.4 and 9.6, respectively.
At $2.20 or so a quart that isn't bad, but Castrol GTX has an initial 8.4 TBN, and you can get it right now for $1.20 quart at K-Mart. Hard to beat the GTX on bang for the buck.....
07-02-2002, 07:43 AM
#56
Ok good to know, I also agree with the not opting for blends, either go with gtx or fully synthetic.
On antoher note, I got a service engine soon light on my way to work today. I reset the ECU after ensuring my gas cap was on (after i filled the tank up i was smelling fumes for a while. I also checked MAF Sensor and Temp Sensor. After resetting it hasn't come on in like 15 miles of highway driving. Hopefully it stays off.
I did remove my MAF screen like last week. Regarding the oil, I don't think there is a sensor that would be complaining about oil weight/pressure. Not to mention I already put the 5-30 back in.
On antoher note, I got a service engine soon light on my way to work today. I reset the ECU after ensuring my gas cap was on (after i filled the tank up i was smelling fumes for a while. I also checked MAF Sensor and Temp Sensor. After resetting it hasn't come on in like 15 miles of highway driving. Hopefully it stays off.
I did remove my MAF screen like last week. Regarding the oil, I don't think there is a sensor that would be complaining about oil weight/pressure. Not to mention I already put the 5-30 back in.
07-02-2002, 09:43 AM
#58
Originally posted by john402052000
I just put some 10W 40 in my 92 GXE. Is this OK?
thanks
I just put some 10W 40 in my 92 GXE. Is this OK?
thanks
07-02-2002, 10:08 AM
#59
Originally posted by BrianV
I did remove my MAF screen like last week. Regarding the oil, I don't think there is a sensor that would be complaining about oil weight/pressure. Not to mention I already put the 5-30 back in.
I did remove my MAF screen like last week. Regarding the oil, I don't think there is a sensor that would be complaining about oil weight/pressure. Not to mention I already put the 5-30 back in.
07-02-2002, 01:00 PM
#60
Originally posted by iwannabmw
The CEL isn't an oil issue. Before you reset the ECU, did you read the code?
The CEL isn't an oil issue. Before you reset the ECU, did you read the code?
07-02-2002, 01:03 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by BrianV
I tired to read the code, but by time I got back in my seat and pen in paper the thing was already flashing, that's why I reset it again hoping it would repeat the process, but instead it just reset. I'll have to wait for it to pop up again for me to read the code.
I tired to read the code, but by time I got back in my seat and pen in paper the thing was already flashing, that's why I reset it again hoping it would repeat the process, but instead it just reset. I'll have to wait for it to pop up again for me to read the code.
it doesn't matter if was already flashing.. it keeps flashign over and over again the same code(s)
07-02-2002, 01:21 PM
#63
I think it may have to do with the fact that it's been raining HELLA hard and the roads are like near flooded.
My car is VERY low, so there is a good chance that O2 sensors might be getting really wet. Also, my car lacks the underbody plastic protective coverings that go over the engine area on the right side (shop forgot to put it back in after engine swap), so water can get onto the lower right section of the engine, sometimes my belts slip because they get wet, but that's about it, happens like once every day in the deepest of rain conditions.
My car is VERY low, so there is a good chance that O2 sensors might be getting really wet. Also, my car lacks the underbody plastic protective coverings that go over the engine area on the right side (shop forgot to put it back in after engine swap), so water can get onto the lower right section of the engine, sometimes my belts slip because they get wet, but that's about it, happens like once every day in the deepest of rain conditions.
07-02-2002, 02:41 PM
#64
Originally posted by BrianV
I think it may have to do with the fact that it's been raining HELLA hard and the roads are like near flooded.
My car is VERY low, so there is a good chance that O2 sensors might be getting really wet. Also, my car lacks the underbody plastic protective coverings that go over the engine area on the right side (shop forgot to put it back in after engine swap), so water can get onto the lower right section of the engine, sometimes my belts slip because they get wet, but that's about it, happens like once every day in the deepest of rain conditions.
I think it may have to do with the fact that it's been raining HELLA hard and the roads are like near flooded.
My car is VERY low, so there is a good chance that O2 sensors might be getting really wet. Also, my car lacks the underbody plastic protective coverings that go over the engine area on the right side (shop forgot to put it back in after engine swap), so water can get onto the lower right section of the engine, sometimes my belts slip because they get wet, but that's about it, happens like once every day in the deepest of rain conditions.
It's very unwise to run your Max without those shields.......CEL makes sense if it occurred after that swap.....Hopefully, something serious won't develop out of it.
Go to a boneyard and get one for $5 or $10......It'll probably save you $100 in other repairs.
07-02-2002, 02:58 PM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Originally posted by BrianV
5-30's in, car is quieter, smoother, and appears to be more responsive.
At the store, I saw this new Mobil-1 though. It's a darker grey bottle and it advertises that it is the regular mobil1 with extra detergent to clean the engine and make it last longer (typical claims, better mpg, more power).
Anyone familiar with this new mobil1? It's in just about every viscosity. This is on top of their new quote-on-quote supersync technology they're advertising on all their bottles.
5-30's in, car is quieter, smoother, and appears to be more responsive.
At the store, I saw this new Mobil-1 though. It's a darker grey bottle and it advertises that it is the regular mobil1 with extra detergent to clean the engine and make it last longer (typical claims, better mpg, more power).
Anyone familiar with this new mobil1? It's in just about every viscosity. This is on top of their new quote-on-quote supersync technology they're advertising on all their bottles.
j/k btw that 50 oil can come with the Cobra, BMW, Benz, Volvo from what I've heardit's all about the COLD, that's all
07-02-2002, 03:03 PM
#66
Originally posted by Frank Fontaine
I wonder if that's just perception, my grandfather used to be that way. After I changed his oil he insisted the car was smoother. But that Caddy car was smooth to begin with. The big question is do you need an oil below 32F, below 0F?? I don't know where you live but it's 95 outside right now in Philly, so being able to go below 0 isn't an issue (5W30 does that where 10W30 wouldn't be as good). If anything the 50 weight oil offered you extra protection in this 90+ degree weather--it has a higher film stregth at the same high temp. That low number is good from a cold start--we're currently starting at 80-90 degrees! Aint it great when Mobil 1 grows on trees! j/k btw that 50 oil can come with the Cobra, BMW, Benz, Volvo from what I've heardit's all about the COLD, that's all
I wonder if that's just perception, my grandfather used to be that way. After I changed his oil he insisted the car was smoother. But that Caddy car was smooth to begin with. The big question is do you need an oil below 32F, below 0F?? I don't know where you live but it's 95 outside right now in Philly, so being able to go below 0 isn't an issue (5W30 does that where 10W30 wouldn't be as good). If anything the 50 weight oil offered you extra protection in this 90+ degree weather--it has a higher film stregth at the same high temp. That low number is good from a cold start--we're currently starting at 80-90 degrees! Aint it great when Mobil 1 grows on trees!
j/k btw that 50 oil can come with the Cobra, BMW, Benz, Volvo from what I've heardit's all about the COLD, that's all
Did you read the ENTIRE post? He went from 5W/30 to 15W/50, which caused nice oil pump noises and rough driveability back to 5W/30, so naturally the car ran smoother as those noises disappeared.
Sometimes I honestly don't know if you are joking or serious in the content of your posts.
07-02-2002, 03:04 PM
#67
Originally posted by Frank Fontaine
If anything the 50 weight oil offered you extra protection in this 90+ degree weather--it has a higher film stregth at the same high temp. That low number is good from a cold start--we're currently starting at 80-90 degrees! Aint it great when Mobil 1 grows on trees! j/k btw that 50 oil can come with the Cobra, BMW, Benz, Volvo from what I've heardit's all about the COLD, that's all
If anything the 50 weight oil offered you extra protection in this 90+ degree weather--it has a higher film stregth at the same high temp. That low number is good from a cold start--we're currently starting at 80-90 degrees! Aint it great when Mobil 1 grows on trees!
j/k btw that 50 oil can come with the Cobra, BMW, Benz, Volvo from what I've heardit's all about the COLD, that's all
I'd go into again, but we've already had the argument several times on proper viscosities and it's starting to get old.
07-02-2002, 03:07 PM
#68
Originally posted by iwannabmw
I'd go into again, but we've already had the argument several times on proper viscosities and it's starting to get old.
I'd go into again, but we've already had the argument several times on proper viscosities and it's starting to get old.
Please outline such statements as I have in the future.
07-02-2002, 03:22 PM
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Originally posted by bill99gxe
so naturally the car ran smoother as those noises disappeared\
so naturally the car ran smoother as those noises disappeared\
07-02-2002, 03:23 PM
#70
Originally posted by Frank Fontaine
I wonder if that's just perception..........
I wonder if that's just perception..........
07-02-2002, 03:25 PM
#71
Originally posted by Frank Fontaine
Sometimes we need to apply common sense as well.
Sometimes we need to apply common sense as well.
Go read your owner's manual and come back and show me where it says 15W/50 or just a xW/50 is just fine.
07-02-2002, 03:27 PM
#72
Originally posted by deezo
Too heavy of an oil will make you oil pump want to give way in the worst way and you will hear it knocking from the added stress.
Too heavy of an oil will make you oil pump want to give way in the worst way and you will hear it knocking from the added stress.
07-02-2002, 03:30 PM
#73
One, your differential is different than your engine and two, the Maxima's clearances were NOT designed to run 50w oil. You will see more wear using the 50w than the 30w because the pump can't pump this high weighted oil. If the doctor hands you a prescription stating to take 1 pill and you feel better after taking 1 pill, it doesn't mean you are going to feel better taking 2 pills. It'll actually hurt you.
07-02-2002, 03:32 PM
#75
Originally posted by bill99gxe
You are failing to apply "common sense", because apparently if an oil pump can't handle an oil that is significantly more viscous at temperature, then the oil pump is the problem, rather than its inherent design around an engine that only calls for a 30W at temperature.
You are failing to apply "common sense", because apparently if an oil pump can't handle an oil that is significantly more viscous at temperature, then the oil pump is the problem, rather than its inherent design around an engine that only calls for a 30W at temperature.
I just think Frank didn't read the thread thru.
07-02-2002, 03:34 PM
#76
Originally posted by Virus
One, your differential is different than your engine and two, the Maxima's clearances were NOT designed to run 50w oil. You will see more wear using the 50w than the 30w because the pump can't pump this high weighted oil. If the doctor hands you a prescription stating to take 1 pill and you feel better after taking 1 pill, it doesn't mean you are going to feel better taking 2 pills. It'll actually hurt you.
One, your differential is different than your engine and two, the Maxima's clearances were NOT designed to run 50w oil. You will see more wear using the 50w than the 30w because the pump can't pump this high weighted oil. If the doctor hands you a prescription stating to take 1 pill and you feel better after taking 1 pill, it doesn't mean you are going to feel better taking 2 pills. It'll actually hurt you.
Good analogy considering your screenname.
07-02-2002, 03:35 PM
#77
Originally posted by deezo
My lady's 97 Accord takes 5w30 and its a 4 banger. I will continue to use common sense and common knowledge/experience to keep both cars going smoothly.
My lady's 97 Accord takes 5w30 and its a 4 banger. I will continue to use common sense and common knowledge/experience to keep both cars going smoothly.
Apparently, if it's 95, then it's ok to use 50W.
I just think Frnak didn't read the thread thru.
07-02-2002, 03:44 PM
#78
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Apparently, if it's 95, then it's ok to use 50W.
[/B]
Apparently, if it's 95, then it's ok to use 50W.
[/B]
07-02-2002, 04:23 PM
#80
Originally posted by Frank Fontaine
Natural? At 95 degrees ambient temp, there's little concern for the W in 5W or 15W. If a 15W-50 causes oil pump noises, I'd say the oil pump isn't performing as it should, given that's it's 95 degrees out. Even a straight 30 oil flows pretty nicely at this temp. I don't hear my rear differential on my other car getting noisy in cold weather, and that's a 90 weight. Sometimes we need to apply common sense as well.
Natural? At 95 degrees ambient temp, there's little concern for the W in 5W or 15W. If a 15W-50 causes oil pump noises, I'd say the oil pump isn't performing as it should, given that's it's 95 degrees out. Even a straight 30 oil flows pretty nicely at this temp. I don't hear my rear differential on my other car getting noisy in cold weather, and that's a 90 weight. Sometimes we need to apply common sense as well.