Vortech V1 SuperChargers and rebuild
#41
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by BrianV
I'm disgusted that no one else has hopped on this post and seen this deductive reasoning. It's freaking DEDUCTIVE people, it's not inductive or anything, the facts are down in front of your face.
I'm disgusted that no one else has hopped on this post and seen this deductive reasoning. It's freaking DEDUCTIVE people, it's not inductive or anything, the facts are down in front of your face.
I'm getting 231 without the MEVI on.
Speedtrip proved that with the MEVI OFF, there is no more/less than a 3hp difference in hp between stock plenums and MEVI. This is negligable. I sold him the MEVI, so I know for a fact our MEVI's are exactly the same.
The facts still stand:
I'm only getting 6PSI out of a 3.25" Pulley, while others are getting 8-9, even without a CatBack.
MardisGrasMax with the MEVI gained +25hp over stock plenums
Loren got 290 with a stick and no MEVI and a CatBack.
Therefore, I should get about 30hp less than Loren did without the MEVI and CatBack on. That's 260, without the MEVI on, BECAUSE I'M AUTO.
I'm GETTING 231!!!!
So I'm losing 59hp compared to Loren ONLY because I'm Auto and have no CatBack? That makes no sense! That's over 25% below a stick.
Why is this so hard to comprehend!?!?
3LBS of boost is missing. That's almost exactly what the Dyno tells me. 29hp=about 3lbs of boost.
I respect you, BrianV, but I'm just saying your not listening to me.
The guage says it, the dyno says it. There's something wrong. I don't see how your reasoning is in any way logical, Brian. It's not logical at all. I'm missing 29hp (or somewhere around that) and 3PSI.
IanS
#42
Ian, you should be making about 280 with the MEVI and 3.25 pulley. Let's take things into consideration...
Matt (MardiGrasMax) and I had very similiar number when he dynoed his 3.125 without MEVI to my 3.125 (around 10 hp difference I believe). With the MEVI, he got 319 which is very similiar with jhans114's 322 dyno with a 5th gen.
So if all this works out like how it's supposed to, the MEVI with 3.125 (if you had this) should give you about the same hp as me... 288 (but not the midrange power from my water injection). If you want a good look of what you might get, check my 284 dyno graph.
The MEVI seems to take away a lot of the 4th gen torque, so your car should be very similar to mine... minus 5-10 hp.
Without the MEVI, you should be in the 250-260 range. Don't use Loren's car as an example because his numbers are higher than normal.
Matt (MardiGrasMax) and I had very similiar number when he dynoed his 3.125 without MEVI to my 3.125 (around 10 hp difference I believe). With the MEVI, he got 319 which is very similiar with jhans114's 322 dyno with a 5th gen.
So if all this works out like how it's supposed to, the MEVI with 3.125 (if you had this) should give you about the same hp as me... 288 (but not the midrange power from my water injection). If you want a good look of what you might get, check my 284 dyno graph.
The MEVI seems to take away a lot of the 4th gen torque, so your car should be very similar to mine... minus 5-10 hp.
Without the MEVI, you should be in the 250-260 range. Don't use Loren's car as an example because his numbers are higher than normal.
#45
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From: Puyallup WA
I spent 10 runs on the Dyno tuning it to a 12.1:1 perfect A/F Ratio, except when the MEVI opens, which then raises the ratio to 12.5:1, still within good range.
What else should I have tuned?
So I'm still missing 3PSI and, by Kev's explanation, at least 20hp.
(267 with MEVI, I should be at about 288)
And why were Loren's numbers so high? He's 25hp above what he should have been with your explanation. Did he have a factory freak or an off Dyno or something?
And the MEVI adds torque, indirectly, not loses it. Only when left open through the full power range does one lose torque. If you only open at 5k RPM or above, you gain.
I gained +14 tq and +36hp with the MEVI on vs off with the SC....of course, all of this happening after 5000RPM. Otherwise, the MEVI is off and not functioning.
Before the SC, torque was the same peak as stock, but when I hit 5200RPM (where tq and hp tend to die on the VQ), it just stayed flat, giving me +15tq and +25hp at 6200RPMS.
The MEVI si nothing but helping here.
IanS
What else should I have tuned?
So I'm still missing 3PSI and, by Kev's explanation, at least 20hp.
(267 with MEVI, I should be at about 288)
And why were Loren's numbers so high? He's 25hp above what he should have been with your explanation. Did he have a factory freak or an off Dyno or something?
And the MEVI adds torque, indirectly, not loses it. Only when left open through the full power range does one lose torque. If you only open at 5k RPM or above, you gain.
I gained +14 tq and +36hp with the MEVI on vs off with the SC....of course, all of this happening after 5000RPM. Otherwise, the MEVI is off and not functioning.
Before the SC, torque was the same peak as stock, but when I hit 5200RPM (where tq and hp tend to die on the VQ), it just stayed flat, giving me +15tq and +25hp at 6200RPMS.
The MEVI si nothing but helping here.
IanS
#46
Originally posted by BrianV
Sorry this is my last post on this thread, it's more frustrating then I can even stand. Here is my last comment.
Logic (noun) - The study of the principles of reasoning, especially of the structure of propositions as distinguished from their content and of method and validity in deductive reasoning.
Deductive Reasoning:
MardisGrasMax has (had when he dyno'd) the following:
Stick, MEVI, 3.125, Clutch, Exhaust, YPipe, Cat, CAI Arm (plus little extras)
Dyno'd in the winter (cold) at just a tad over 300 WHP.
iansw has (had when he dyno'd) the following:
Auto, MEVI, 3.25, CAI Arm, YPipe (note the absense of exhaust and cat)
Believes he should be dynoing at around 290 WHP.
HMM, I bet if MardisGras put at 3.25 in his car it would dyno 290. Thus, you're saying that the lack of exhaust and cat, with the addition of an automatic tranny takes absolutely no toll on your peak HP?
On a FWD car the typical figure is 15-17% drivetrain power loss via a manual transmission. The FWD loss for an auto is figured to be closer to 23-25%. I won't do the math for you!
I'm disgusted that no one else has hopped on this post and seen this deductive reasoning. It's freaking DEDUCTIVE people, it's not inductive or anything, the facts are down in front of your face.
Sorry this is my last post on this thread, it's more frustrating then I can even stand. Here is my last comment.
Logic (noun) - The study of the principles of reasoning, especially of the structure of propositions as distinguished from their content and of method and validity in deductive reasoning.
Deductive Reasoning:
MardisGrasMax has (had when he dyno'd) the following:
Stick, MEVI, 3.125, Clutch, Exhaust, YPipe, Cat, CAI Arm (plus little extras)
Dyno'd in the winter (cold) at just a tad over 300 WHP.
iansw has (had when he dyno'd) the following:
Auto, MEVI, 3.25, CAI Arm, YPipe (note the absense of exhaust and cat)
Believes he should be dynoing at around 290 WHP.
HMM, I bet if MardisGras put at 3.25 in his car it would dyno 290. Thus, you're saying that the lack of exhaust and cat, with the addition of an automatic tranny takes absolutely no toll on your peak HP?
On a FWD car the typical figure is 15-17% drivetrain power loss via a manual transmission. The FWD loss for an auto is figured to be closer to 23-25%. I won't do the math for you!
I'm disgusted that no one else has hopped on this post and seen this deductive reasoning. It's freaking DEDUCTIVE people, it's not inductive or anything, the facts are down in front of your face.
and also try the other guage the one you have might be wrong like you said
#49
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by BrianV
So Kev gets 288 with more boost, so that should put you at right about 278 with 3.25 pulley. So you're making 11 HP less, that seems pretty damn accurate since you don't have exhaust or cat.
So Kev gets 288 with more boost, so that should put you at right about 278 with 3.25 pulley. So you're making 11 HP less, that seems pretty damn accurate since you don't have exhaust or cat.
Kev does not have a MEVI.
My car DOES NOT get 267hp without the MEVI.
It gets 231.
So I am not getting 11HP less, I am getting 47HP less than Kev.
There is something obviously wrong, as the MEVI, when not activated, has been PROVEN to be only a 3-5hp difference between it and the stock plenums, which is negligable, because different Dyno runs on different days have a margin of error.
And once again, with a 3.25, I'm only getting 6PSI.
#50
Originally posted by iansw
You're forgetting:
Kev does not have a MEVI.
My car DOES NOT get 267hp without the MEVI.
It gets 231.
So I am not getting 11HP less, I am getting 47HP less than Kev.
There is something obviously wrong, as the MEVI, when not activated, has been PROVEN to be only a 3-5hp difference between it and the stock plenums, which is negligable, because different Dyno runs on different days have a margin of error.\
LOL you just get smarter and smarter every time you open your mouth. Kev has a 2k-2k1 Maxima, it comes stock with the better manifold. They're essentially the same MEVI and 2l-2k1 intake manifold, that's the primary reason the 2k's are rated at 222 HP.
And once again, with a 3.25, I'm only getting 6PSI.
You're forgetting:
Kev does not have a MEVI.
My car DOES NOT get 267hp without the MEVI.
It gets 231.
So I am not getting 11HP less, I am getting 47HP less than Kev.
There is something obviously wrong, as the MEVI, when not activated, has been PROVEN to be only a 3-5hp difference between it and the stock plenums, which is negligable, because different Dyno runs on different days have a margin of error.\
LOL you just get smarter and smarter every time you open your mouth. Kev has a 2k-2k1 Maxima, it comes stock with the better manifold. They're essentially the same MEVI and 2l-2k1 intake manifold, that's the primary reason the 2k's are rated at 222 HP.
And once again, with a 3.25, I'm only getting 6PSI.
The 2k-2k1 maxima (like kev's) already have a superior intake manifold. It's actually nearly the same as the MEVI. That's why stock 2k and 2k1's have 222 HP stock, it's almost all from that intake manifold, and a little from exhaust.
Man this post NEEDS to be deleted, what a waste of bandwith and database processing.
#51
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by BrianV
Everytime you open your mouth you just sound smarter and smarter.
Man this post NEEDS to be deleted, what a waste of bandwith and database processing.
Everytime you open your mouth you just sound smarter and smarter.
Man this post NEEDS to be deleted, what a waste of bandwith and database processing.
Come on, tone it down man. No need to get up in arms about it. I understand you are knowledgable, and I am taking the time to think about what you're saying.
I made a mistake there. I forgot Kev had a 5th Gen. My bad.
After doing more research, I still can't find one case of an Auto Maxima 4th Gen only getting 231hp and only 6PSI of boost at the wheel with a 3.25" Pulley.
If you, or anyone else, has data available, I would love to see it and be satisfied with my $2500 purchase.
So maybe you're right, but I still don't see it. Hopefully getting this new boost gauge will prove one of us right, and for my pocketbook's sake, I really hope I'm wrong.
But I'm still not sure I am wrong.
IanS
#53
HOLD ON, HERE COMES THE BANDWAGON, HOW ABOUT EVERYONE STOP! IAN IS JUST TRYING TO GET HELP TO FIGURE OUT WHY HIS BOOST SEEMS LOW! IF YOU DON'T WANT TO HELP, DON'T READ THIS POST. SINCE WHEN IS IT SO WRONG TO ASK FOR HELP, IS THAT NOT WHAT THIS FORUM IS FOR? AS I RECALL, THE ORIGINAL QUESTION WAS "HAS ANYONE GOTTEN THEIR V1 REBUILT, AND WHAT WAS THE RESULT"? NOW LETS SAY YOU JUST SPENT $3000+ ON BOOST THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO GIVE YOU 9LBS OF BOOST, WOULDN'T YOU BE UPSET IF YOU ONLY GOT 6LBS OF BOOST? YES, EVERYONE HERE WOULD, SO DON'T BASH IAN, TRY TO HELP A FELLOW .ORG MEMBER, A GUY WHO HAS TRIED TO HELP OTHERS OUT ON THIS BOARD BY ORGANIZING A MEVI GROUP DEAL, CUT HIM SOME SLACK!!!
Okay, I'm done yelling now, but geez, come on guys, are we even old enough to drive, not with all the bashing going on here...
Okay, I'm done yelling now, but geez, come on guys, are we even old enough to drive, not with all the bashing going on here...
#54
Originally posted by iansw
I spent 10 runs on the Dyno tuning it to a 12.1:1 perfect A/F Ratio, except when the MEVI opens, which then raises the ratio to 12.5:1, still within good range.
What else should I have tuned?
So I'm still missing 3PSI and, by Kev's explanation, at least 20hp.
(267 with MEVI, I should be at about 288)
And why were Loren's numbers so high? He's 25hp above what he should have been with your explanation. Did he have a factory freak or an off Dyno or something?
And the MEVI adds torque, indirectly, not loses it. Only when left open through the full power range does one lose torque. If you only open at 5k RPM or above, you gain.
I gained +14 tq and +36hp with the MEVI on vs off with the SC....of course, all of this happening after 5000RPM. Otherwise, the MEVI is off and not functioning.
Before the SC, torque was the same peak as stock, but when I hit 5200RPM (where tq and hp tend to die on the VQ), it just stayed flat, giving me +15tq and +25hp at 6200RPMS.
The MEVI si nothing but helping here.
IanS
I spent 10 runs on the Dyno tuning it to a 12.1:1 perfect A/F Ratio, except when the MEVI opens, which then raises the ratio to 12.5:1, still within good range.
What else should I have tuned?
So I'm still missing 3PSI and, by Kev's explanation, at least 20hp.
(267 with MEVI, I should be at about 288)
And why were Loren's numbers so high? He's 25hp above what he should have been with your explanation. Did he have a factory freak or an off Dyno or something?
And the MEVI adds torque, indirectly, not loses it. Only when left open through the full power range does one lose torque. If you only open at 5k RPM or above, you gain.
I gained +14 tq and +36hp with the MEVI on vs off with the SC....of course, all of this happening after 5000RPM. Otherwise, the MEVI is off and not functioning.
Before the SC, torque was the same peak as stock, but when I hit 5200RPM (where tq and hp tend to die on the VQ), it just stayed flat, giving me +15tq and +25hp at 6200RPMS.
The MEVI si nothing but helping here.
IanS
Loren mentioned a few times that tuning was one of the best things to do so he probably spent many hours on the dyno to eek out every bit of hp. I've never seen his dyno graph, so I can't say what he's done to the car to get that number. 290 does seem a bit on the high side though.
With a popcharger, y-pipe, and MEVI you dynoed at 155 hp. With a Stillen intake and GReddy cat-back, Jane got 159 hp. At 6 psi, Jane got about 230 hp, which matches your 231 hp at 6 psi.
Something is not adding up right.
#55
Originally posted by mtrai760
HOLD ON, HERE COMES THE BANDWAGON, HOW ABOUT EVERYONE STOP! IAN IS JUST TRYING TO GET HELP TO FIGURE OUT WHY HIS BOOST SEEMS LOW! IF YOU DON'T WANT TO HELP, DON'T READ THIS POST. SINCE WHEN IS IT SO WRONG TO ASK FOR HELP, IS THAT NOT WHAT THIS FORUM IS FOR? AS I RECALL, THE ORIGINAL QUESTION WAS "HAS ANYONE GOTTEN THEIR V1 REBUILT, AND WHAT WAS THE RESULT"? NOW LETS SAY YOU JUST SPENT $3000+ ON BOOST THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO GIVE YOU 9LBS OF BOOST, WOULDN'T YOU BE UPSET IF YOU ONLY GOT 6LBS OF BOOST? YES, EVERYONE HERE WOULD, SO DON'T BASH IAN, TRY TO HELP A FELLOW .ORG MEMBER, A GUY WHO HAS TRIED TO HELP OTHERS OUT ON THIS BOARD BY ORGANIZING A MEVI GROUP DEAL, CUT HIM SOME SLACK!!!
Okay, I'm done yelling now, but geez, come on guys, are we even old enough to drive, not with all the bashing going on here...
HOLD ON, HERE COMES THE BANDWAGON, HOW ABOUT EVERYONE STOP! IAN IS JUST TRYING TO GET HELP TO FIGURE OUT WHY HIS BOOST SEEMS LOW! IF YOU DON'T WANT TO HELP, DON'T READ THIS POST. SINCE WHEN IS IT SO WRONG TO ASK FOR HELP, IS THAT NOT WHAT THIS FORUM IS FOR? AS I RECALL, THE ORIGINAL QUESTION WAS "HAS ANYONE GOTTEN THEIR V1 REBUILT, AND WHAT WAS THE RESULT"? NOW LETS SAY YOU JUST SPENT $3000+ ON BOOST THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO GIVE YOU 9LBS OF BOOST, WOULDN'T YOU BE UPSET IF YOU ONLY GOT 6LBS OF BOOST? YES, EVERYONE HERE WOULD, SO DON'T BASH IAN, TRY TO HELP A FELLOW .ORG MEMBER, A GUY WHO HAS TRIED TO HELP OTHERS OUT ON THIS BOARD BY ORGANIZING A MEVI GROUP DEAL, CUT HIM SOME SLACK!!!
Okay, I'm done yelling now, but geez, come on guys, are we even old enough to drive, not with all the bashing going on here...
#56
just read over the post
I think your numbers might be a little low Ian and when you say it is making a loud noise is it obnoxious loud or just the regular high squeel you normally get. Anyway, the one thing you do have to keep in mind is that the dyno shop that you dynoed at was about 10-20HP under what you thought it should be at anyway. Because 155 peak HP with the mods you have is like my peak HP at 5500ft. Anyway...you are seeing a total lift in power from 155 to 231 which is 76 horse...which is the typical output for a supercharger on the max. And for an auto I think that is great. But, an exhaust and free flowing cat would definitely help the output like people have commented. And that would put your total output around 80-90HP which is great for an automatic. Just my thoughts.
-John
-John
#57
It could just be the difference in cars. All cars do not put down the same amount, even if they are the same years or with the same mods. There are those freak of nature cars that are just fast. Then there are those that are slow.
#58
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Loren mentioned a few times that tuning was one of the best things to do so he probably spent many hours on the dyno to eek out every bit of hp. I've never seen his dyno graph, so I can't say what he's done to the car to get that number. 290 does seem a bit on the high side though.
With a popcharger, y-pipe, and MEVI you dynoed at 155 hp. With a Stillen intake and GReddy cat-back, Jane got 159 hp. At 6 psi, Jane got about 230 hp, which matches your 231 hp at 6 psi.
Something is not adding up right.
Loren mentioned a few times that tuning was one of the best things to do so he probably spent many hours on the dyno to eek out every bit of hp. I've never seen his dyno graph, so I can't say what he's done to the car to get that number. 290 does seem a bit on the high side though.
With a popcharger, y-pipe, and MEVI you dynoed at 155 hp. With a Stillen intake and GReddy cat-back, Jane got 159 hp. At 6 psi, Jane got about 230 hp, which matches your 231 hp at 6 psi.
Something is not adding up right.
I'm only getting 6PSI and about the same hp as Jane did with 6PSI.
That tells me most likely there's nothing wrong with my gauge.
6PSI sucks for a 3.25" Pulley!
Speaking with Loren, he tuned for 5 or so runs on the Dyno and that was it. He never tuned again or even touched his FMU. 9PSI, 290hp.
I did 10 runs, and tuned it exactly as Loren suggested...12.1:1. When I did this, I gained 13hp alone.
Cranman - I think 76hp gain is great too, for a stock pulley. which is about the boost I'm getting (6PSI). I should be getting much more boost (9PSI) and a bit more hp (250 or so) with the 3.25" Pulley.
And it's REALLY loud.
Although I'm told this is normal by Loren, so maybe it is just that loud.
See for yourself:
www.cyberhub.net/shared
So that's why I think the SC needs a rebuild.
People can say all they want "Maybe your Max is just slow", but they haven't given me one valid explanation on the 3 missing PSI.
And a total of 3 Nissan Techs, 2 race shop boost specialist (One who has installed a SC on a Max before), and many, many people more knowledgable (obviously) than BrianV have looked at it or spoken to me about it. They all agree something is obviously wrong, they all agree it's the SC, because there's nothing else left to check, and because one pulley gives a person a certain amount of boost.
That number is usually within .5-1PSI of everyone else. I'm -3PSI.
And those people were nice about it too.
I've checked everything, now I'm probably getting the SC Rebuilt.
I just wanted to know what you all thought. And freedom of expression is great when conducted in a civilized, orderly manner.
No need to get angry or rude.
Maxima_Van and mtrai, thanks guys for the support.
Kev, thanks for being reasonable.
BrianV, thanks for the help and as always, the support....
No, really.....I mean it. See, look at me. Look at how much I mean it.
IanS
#59
First generation V1's are hideously loud.
Also, V1's tend to put down about 1 LB less boost with the same pulley as a V2.
Finally, Let's take the MEVI completely out of play and work with your 231 number because if something was wrong with your amount of boost the MEVI number would be even further off.
An auto with intake and y-pipe puts down 155 WHP. (I've seen intake, y, cat, exhaust on an auto make like 162ish)
A stick with intake, ypipe, cat, and exhaust puts down 175-180 to the wheels.
I added exactly 70WHP with the addition of a 6PSI kit to my dyno numbers. Cheston added 90WHP with the addition of his 3.125 system. Some people like to figure that 1psi is worth roughly 10HP.
This your 155 plus an additional 70 WHP puts you at 225 WHP. Now if I were to add that extra 20-30 HP from your extra boost it would put you in the right target area. However, i can't see that pheasibly happening because with that exhaust restriction you aren't making 70HP out of the box.
finally, at Stillen I saw a 5th gen get dyno'd with the standard out of the box 6psi V2. He put down 212 WHP (no y pipe, no exhaust, no cat). Just all stock with the SC. You can see that adding the SC without getting rid of as many restrictions as possible is not as rewarding.
I know I've been aggressive and had a mean tone, the tone isn't as bad as it seems online, I just think you're setting yourself up for disappointment. I truly feel your numbers are completely reasonable, at times I think they're better then reasonable.
Well good luck, I think a rebuild will take away the noise, as Vortech switched from a paxton turbine after first gen V1. I have a second gen V1 and it's as quiet as a V2. OgreDave however has the first gen V1 and that thing is LOUD as hell at idle.
Also, V1's tend to put down about 1 LB less boost with the same pulley as a V2.
Finally, Let's take the MEVI completely out of play and work with your 231 number because if something was wrong with your amount of boost the MEVI number would be even further off.
An auto with intake and y-pipe puts down 155 WHP. (I've seen intake, y, cat, exhaust on an auto make like 162ish)
A stick with intake, ypipe, cat, and exhaust puts down 175-180 to the wheels.
I added exactly 70WHP with the addition of a 6PSI kit to my dyno numbers. Cheston added 90WHP with the addition of his 3.125 system. Some people like to figure that 1psi is worth roughly 10HP.
This your 155 plus an additional 70 WHP puts you at 225 WHP. Now if I were to add that extra 20-30 HP from your extra boost it would put you in the right target area. However, i can't see that pheasibly happening because with that exhaust restriction you aren't making 70HP out of the box.
finally, at Stillen I saw a 5th gen get dyno'd with the standard out of the box 6psi V2. He put down 212 WHP (no y pipe, no exhaust, no cat). Just all stock with the SC. You can see that adding the SC without getting rid of as many restrictions as possible is not as rewarding.
I know I've been aggressive and had a mean tone, the tone isn't as bad as it seems online, I just think you're setting yourself up for disappointment. I truly feel your numbers are completely reasonable, at times I think they're better then reasonable.
Well good luck, I think a rebuild will take away the noise, as Vortech switched from a paxton turbine after first gen V1. I have a second gen V1 and it's as quiet as a V2. OgreDave however has the first gen V1 and that thing is LOUD as hell at idle.
#60
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From: Puyallup WA
Well, thanks Brian.
I see your points, I really do. And if the SC was putting down maybe 245hp and 8lbs of boost, I'd agree, grudgingly.
But I still think 231 is low. and I only hit 6PSI every 3rd run or so. Usually it's more like 5. (But then again, I'm auto, and I'm not manually shifting when I only get 5)
So I'll probably do this:
Send the SC into Vortech for rebuild. If there is something wrong with it, i will contact Loren and work things out with him accordingly.
If there's nothing wrong with it, I will pay to have it rebuilt anyway, just to get rid of the noise.
Then everyone's happy, and we can find out what the truth is.
IanS
I see your points, I really do. And if the SC was putting down maybe 245hp and 8lbs of boost, I'd agree, grudgingly.
But I still think 231 is low. and I only hit 6PSI every 3rd run or so. Usually it's more like 5. (But then again, I'm auto, and I'm not manually shifting when I only get 5)
So I'll probably do this:
Send the SC into Vortech for rebuild. If there is something wrong with it, i will contact Loren and work things out with him accordingly.
If there's nothing wrong with it, I will pay to have it rebuilt anyway, just to get rid of the noise.
Then everyone's happy, and we can find out what the truth is.
IanS
#62
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by NotNew!!NewSN!!
have u put on a stock pulley to see how many pounds u hit? becuz if ur hitting lower with that too its a whole nother thing, but if ur hittin 6 with the stock then u will realize sompin is wrong up top.
have u put on a stock pulley to see how many pounds u hit? becuz if ur hitting lower with that too its a whole nother thing, but if ur hittin 6 with the stock then u will realize sompin is wrong up top.
I'll just live with it for a few months until my CC is paid off enough to afford a rebuild, and then get the rebuild. If the rebuild doesn't fix it, then no real loss, because it'll be alot quieter anyway.
From there I'll know for sure it is or is not the SC, and I can check everything else out...again.
I already had Nissan run a full diagnostics on the car, expecting them to at least try and make some money off me. They couldn't find anything at all. 2 different shops. Pacific Nissan in Seattle, and Infiniti of Kirkland. The Infinity of Kirkland shop is run by a good pal of mine, and he wouldn't lie to me or make shortcuts. It was ****ing him off almost as much as me, and he spent 3 hours trying to find something. Both shops finally decided it has to be the SC.
That's why I'm 99.99% sure it's not the car itself.
Engine compression looks great, A/F looks good, vacuum is within spec, no blowby noise at full throttle (tested this on a Dyno while standing in front of the car with the hood open), computer throwing no codes when checked, belt dressed and at spec, etc, etc, etc.
Here's a question:
Is there anything wrong with taking the SC off the car, leaving in the piping, and slapping a filter on the end of the piping for a few weeks while I wait to get my SC back?
I don't imagine there would be any real problems, but just asking.
IanS
#63
Just slap on a filter onto the already hideously long s/c piping? I guess you could :/ I'm saving my PR CAI for a situation just like this though. Keep us updated on what you do about the rebuild and how much cash it costs you. I'm probably going to be looking at one down the road as well, but hopefully I'll be a little luckier. I'd be pretty ****ed off if I were you, but hey, **** happens sometimes.
The part about the cop trying to give you a "vehicle in need of repair" ticket still makes me laugh though. I'm sure the loudness of the v1 will eventually get old to me and I can send it in for a rebuild as well, but right now the whistling idea is music to my ears
The part about the cop trying to give you a "vehicle in need of repair" ticket still makes me laugh though. I'm sure the loudness of the v1 will eventually get old to me and I can send it in for a rebuild as well, but right now the whistling idea is music to my ears
#64
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just because the gauge says its 6 PSI doesn't mean its 6 PSI.. the new climax gauge was reading 2 PSI and his car was still fast as hell and a monster.. maybe you should talk to him as to how he corrected the problem.. you should also do a search on delio's name for the "2 week" 2 month issue he went with vortech and how long it took for this v1 to get rebuilt.. and if you want to go through that head ace to fix a problem thats not a problem.. these are just ideas
#65
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if you think takign off your SC unit and slapping on a CAI is all it takes to return a car back to NA after being Supercharged.. i hope you are not the one installing your Supercharger..
Originally posted by ereet
Just slap on a filter onto the already hideously long s/c piping? I guess you could :/ I'm saving my PR CAI for a situation just like this though. Keep us updated on what you do about the rebuild and how much cash it costs you. I'm probably going to be looking at one down the road as well, but hopefully I'll be a little luckier. I'd be pretty ****ed off if I were you, but hey, **** happens sometimes.
The part about the cop trying to give you a "vehicle in need of repair" ticket still makes me laugh though. I'm sure the loudness of the v1 will eventually get old to me and I can send it in for a rebuild as well, but right now the whistling idea is music to my ears
Just slap on a filter onto the already hideously long s/c piping? I guess you could :/ I'm saving my PR CAI for a situation just like this though. Keep us updated on what you do about the rebuild and how much cash it costs you. I'm probably going to be looking at one down the road as well, but hopefully I'll be a little luckier. I'd be pretty ****ed off if I were you, but hey, **** happens sometimes.
The part about the cop trying to give you a "vehicle in need of repair" ticket still makes me laugh though. I'm sure the loudness of the v1 will eventually get old to me and I can send it in for a rebuild as well, but right now the whistling idea is music to my ears
#66
Originally posted by iansw
If I'm going to take the SC off the backplate to get to the pulley, I may as well send it in for a rebuild anyway.
I'll just live with it for a few months until my CC is paid off enough to afford a rebuild, and then get the rebuild. If the rebuild doesn't fix it, then no real loss, because it'll be alot quieter anyway.
From there I'll know for sure it is or is not the SC, and I can check everything else out...again.
I already had Nissan run a full diagnostics on the car, expecting them to at least try and make some money off me. They couldn't find anything at all. 2 different shops. Pacific Nissan in Seattle, and Infiniti of Kirkland. The Infinity of Kirkland shop is run by a good pal of mine, and he wouldn't lie to me or make shortcuts. It was ****ing him off almost as much as me, and he spent 3 hours trying to find something. Both shops finally decided it has to be the SC.
That's why I'm 99.99% sure it's not the car itself.
Engine compression looks great, A/F looks good, vacuum is within spec, no blowby noise at full throttle (tested this on a Dyno while standing in front of the car with the hood open), computer throwing no codes when checked, belt dressed and at spec, etc, etc, etc.
Here's a question:
Is there anything wrong with taking the SC off the car, leaving in the piping, and slapping a filter on the end of the piping for a few weeks while I wait to get my SC back?
I don't imagine there would be any real problems, but just asking.
IanS
If I'm going to take the SC off the backplate to get to the pulley, I may as well send it in for a rebuild anyway.
I'll just live with it for a few months until my CC is paid off enough to afford a rebuild, and then get the rebuild. If the rebuild doesn't fix it, then no real loss, because it'll be alot quieter anyway.
From there I'll know for sure it is or is not the SC, and I can check everything else out...again.
I already had Nissan run a full diagnostics on the car, expecting them to at least try and make some money off me. They couldn't find anything at all. 2 different shops. Pacific Nissan in Seattle, and Infiniti of Kirkland. The Infinity of Kirkland shop is run by a good pal of mine, and he wouldn't lie to me or make shortcuts. It was ****ing him off almost as much as me, and he spent 3 hours trying to find something. Both shops finally decided it has to be the SC.
That's why I'm 99.99% sure it's not the car itself.
Engine compression looks great, A/F looks good, vacuum is within spec, no blowby noise at full throttle (tested this on a Dyno while standing in front of the car with the hood open), computer throwing no codes when checked, belt dressed and at spec, etc, etc, etc.
Here's a question:
Is there anything wrong with taking the SC off the car, leaving in the piping, and slapping a filter on the end of the piping for a few weeks while I wait to get my SC back?
I don't imagine there would be any real problems, but just asking.
IanS
well i was just sayin u went and did a lot of other tedious stuff that probably took a lot more time, if u put on the stock pulley and ur guage still read 6 psi, which is correct for that, then it is an internal problem, but if ur guage is reading like 2-4 psi, its probably the guage that is off
#67
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Originally posted by NotNew!!NewSN!!
well i was just sayin u went and did a lot of other tedious stuff that probably took a lot more time, if u put on the stock pulley and ur guage still read 6 psi, which is correct for that, then it is an internal problem, but if ur guage is reading like 2-4 psi, its probably the guage that is off
well i was just sayin u went and did a lot of other tedious stuff that probably took a lot more time, if u put on the stock pulley and ur guage still read 6 psi, which is correct for that, then it is an internal problem, but if ur guage is reading like 2-4 psi, its probably the guage that is off
Ian the V1 supercharger makes about 1lb-.5lbs less boost then a V2 supercharger due to the gearing inside. The V1 supercharger as posted above is louder sounding somewhat electrical whining noise. I was not aware that you did not have a exhaust set up. Instead of rebuilding something that is not broken I would invest in a catback exhaust system. Your sucking in all this air, it will benefit the car to let all this air exit as well.
I was on my stock Y pipe after installing my Cattman a couple of weeks ago it was a dramatic increase in Power. Now I am going to invest $35 into a straight pipe. But one bad thing Ian you cant compare your auto to a 5 speed max, your auto controls the shifts in your car not letting you boost higher by taking the RPMs higher. The higher you take it in 2nd gear the higher boost you ll get and build in 3rd and so on. I never boosted 10PSI in 2nd gear with the stock Ypipe now I do. I was boosting about 5-7lbs in 2nd gear and in third I was hitting 10PSI.
#68
Originally posted by Turbo97GXE
if you think takign off your SC unit and slapping on a CAI is all it takes to return a car back to NA after being Supercharged.. i hope you are not the one installing your Supercharger..
if you think takign off your SC unit and slapping on a CAI is all it takes to return a car back to NA after being Supercharged.. i hope you are not the one installing your Supercharger..
#69
Originally posted by JAY25
Ian the V1 supercharger makes about 1lb-.5lbs less boost then a V2 supercharger due to the gearing inside. The V1 supercharger as posted above is louder sounding somewhat electrical whining noise. I was not aware that you did not have a exhaust set up. Instead of rebuilding something that is not broken I would invest in a catback exhaust system. Your sucking in all this air, it will benefit the car to let all this air exit as well.
I was on my stock Y pipe after installing my Cattman a couple of weeks ago it was a dramatic increase in Power. Now I am going to invest $35 into a straight pipe. But one bad thing Ian you cant compare your auto to a 5 speed max, your auto controls the shifts in your car not letting you boost higher by taking the RPMs higher. The higher you take it in 2nd gear the higher boost you ll get and build in 3rd and so on. I never boosted 10PSI in 2nd gear with the stock Ypipe now I do. I was boosting about 5-7lbs in 2nd gear and in third I was hitting 10PSI.
Ian the V1 supercharger makes about 1lb-.5lbs less boost then a V2 supercharger due to the gearing inside. The V1 supercharger as posted above is louder sounding somewhat electrical whining noise. I was not aware that you did not have a exhaust set up. Instead of rebuilding something that is not broken I would invest in a catback exhaust system. Your sucking in all this air, it will benefit the car to let all this air exit as well.
I was on my stock Y pipe after installing my Cattman a couple of weeks ago it was a dramatic increase in Power. Now I am going to invest $35 into a straight pipe. But one bad thing Ian you cant compare your auto to a 5 speed max, your auto controls the shifts in your car not letting you boost higher by taking the RPMs higher. The higher you take it in 2nd gear the higher boost you ll get and build in 3rd and so on. I never boosted 10PSI in 2nd gear with the stock Ypipe now I do. I was boosting about 5-7lbs in 2nd gear and in third I was hitting 10PSI.
LISTEN TO THIS MANNNN!!!!
#70
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by Turbo97GXE
if you think takign off your SC unit and slapping on a CAI is all it takes to return a car back to NA after being Supercharged.. i hope you are not the one installing your Supercharger..
if you think takign off your SC unit and slapping on a CAI is all it takes to return a car back to NA after being Supercharged.. i hope you are not the one installing your Supercharger..
And I forgot about the oil lines. But that takes 15 minutes to rectify. And of course the belts have to be changed back to stock.
Silly me. I was half awake this morning. Girlfriend was nagging, hadn't had coffee, and every other excuse. Sorry.
I've decided what needs to be done and I'm going to do it.
OK, Cranman - let's compare to an Auto -
If I equal the hp of Jane97SE when she had no CatBack and the stock pulley, (Equal to me now without the MEVI on) and I have a 3.25" Pulley and only 6PSI of boost (on the Dyno in 3rd Gear, manually shifting), then something's wrong. You guys are making it too complicated.
Same hp, same boost, similar mods, much smaller pulley = problem.
Though I'm not 100% sure Jane did not have her CatBack yet. I'm 90% sure she didn't.
Although I agree with the CatBack idea, and that it will definately help, I know that's not my whole problem....ALthough a CatBack will be on order in a couple of months.
And now, after today, 6 total ASE certified mechanics have poked and prodded just about each and every system on my car, with about every diagnostics tool one can think of.
My car is perfect, except that my vacuum is only 17hg, and most other people seem to be above 20. Nissan Spec is 17-22hg. So according to Nissan, it's a slight bit low, but not indicative of a problem.....just the way it is.
The SC is the only thing left.
And like I said, if I'm wrong, so what...I have a quieter SC.
NotNew!!NewSN!! - Now that you put it that way, I just may try that when I have the time...Good point.
You say in your sig that your at 18 on the vacuum gauge. Have you always been like that?
IanS
#71
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yo Ian.. i like you.. so i am not going to get mad at you and start going off on you..
but why do people always do this to themeselves..
look at who i quoted.. look at the person i made the comment too..
i could never understand how people always think i am talkign to them when i quote a completely different person
but why do people always do this to themeselves..
look at who i quoted.. look at the person i made the comment too..
i could never understand how people always think i am talkign to them when i quote a completely different person
Originally posted by iansw
Ummm...I did install my SC on my own, and VB Mod, and MEVI, and springs/shocks and stereo, and each and everything other mod/change.
And I forgot about the oil lines. But that takes 15 minutes to rectify. And of course the belts have to be changed back to stock.
Silly me. I was half awake this morning. Girlfriend was nagging, hadn't had coffee, and every other excuse. Sorry.
I've decided what needs to be done and I'm going to do it.
OK, Cranman - let's compare to an Auto -
If I equal the hp of Jane97SE when she had no CatBack and the stock pulley, (Equal to me now without the MEVI on) and I have a 3.25" Pulley and only 6PSI of boost (on the Dyno in 3rd Gear, manually shifting), then something's wrong. You guys are making it too complicated.
Same hp, same boost, similar mods, much smaller pulley = problem.
Though I'm not 100% sure Jane did not have her CatBack yet. I'm 90% sure she didn't.
Although I agree with the CatBack idea, and that it will definately help, I know that's not my whole problem....ALthough a CatBack will be on order in a couple of months.
And now, after today, 6 total ASE certified mechanics have poked and prodded just about each and every system on my car, with about every diagnostics tool one can think of.
My car is perfect, except that my vacuum is only 17hg, and most other people seem to be above 20. Nissan Spec is 17-22hg. So according to Nissan, it's a slight bit low, but not indicative of a problem.....just the way it is.
The SC is the only thing left.
And like I said, if I'm wrong, so what...I have a quieter SC.
NotNew!!NewSN!! - Now that you put it that way, I just may try that when I have the time...Good point.
You say in your sig that your at 18 on the vacuum gauge. Have you always been like that?
IanS
Ummm...I did install my SC on my own, and VB Mod, and MEVI, and springs/shocks and stereo, and each and everything other mod/change.
And I forgot about the oil lines. But that takes 15 minutes to rectify. And of course the belts have to be changed back to stock.
Silly me. I was half awake this morning. Girlfriend was nagging, hadn't had coffee, and every other excuse. Sorry.
I've decided what needs to be done and I'm going to do it.
OK, Cranman - let's compare to an Auto -
If I equal the hp of Jane97SE when she had no CatBack and the stock pulley, (Equal to me now without the MEVI on) and I have a 3.25" Pulley and only 6PSI of boost (on the Dyno in 3rd Gear, manually shifting), then something's wrong. You guys are making it too complicated.
Same hp, same boost, similar mods, much smaller pulley = problem.
Though I'm not 100% sure Jane did not have her CatBack yet. I'm 90% sure she didn't.
Although I agree with the CatBack idea, and that it will definately help, I know that's not my whole problem....ALthough a CatBack will be on order in a couple of months.
And now, after today, 6 total ASE certified mechanics have poked and prodded just about each and every system on my car, with about every diagnostics tool one can think of.
My car is perfect, except that my vacuum is only 17hg, and most other people seem to be above 20. Nissan Spec is 17-22hg. So according to Nissan, it's a slight bit low, but not indicative of a problem.....just the way it is.
The SC is the only thing left.
And like I said, if I'm wrong, so what...I have a quieter SC.
NotNew!!NewSN!! - Now that you put it that way, I just may try that when I have the time...Good point.
You say in your sig that your at 18 on the vacuum gauge. Have you always been like that?
IanS
#72
IAN, do not just remove the blower and pout a filter on. You have the FMU still dumping fuel in via vaccuum. This means you'll be fuel-flooding your engine almost all of the time you're driving.
You need to return the fuel system to stock, do something about the oil feed line that was intended for the blower. As far as piping, you can use the SC piping, that's not going to be a problem (might not make as much power, but not by any significant amount {1-2HP}).
Finally, as I said earlier, just because your boost guage was saying 6PSI does not necessarily mean that is true. These guages are mechanical and measure vaccuum. You could have a pinhole leak in that vaccuum system which would cause the misread (however it would not cause an actual decrease in boost from the blower).
Also, are you 100% positive you have a 3.25 pulley in there? Maybe Loren made some mistake shipping you the parts, without seeing the two pulleys next to each other (or measuring) it's difficult to tell which one is which.
If money is an issue right now, I would just say, live with your current setup (and the noise). No need in taking it off until you can afford to get it rebuilt. Again, even if it needs rebuilding at this point I don't think it's worth $700 or so to get an extra 10 WHP. Personally, and I will not argue the point further, I think you're getting the right amount of power for your setup. Invest that $700 into a test-pipe, exhaust, and VB mod, as even those mods with your current possibly-broken blower would probably increase overall gains over getting the potentially-broken blower fixed.
You need to return the fuel system to stock, do something about the oil feed line that was intended for the blower. As far as piping, you can use the SC piping, that's not going to be a problem (might not make as much power, but not by any significant amount {1-2HP}).
Finally, as I said earlier, just because your boost guage was saying 6PSI does not necessarily mean that is true. These guages are mechanical and measure vaccuum. You could have a pinhole leak in that vaccuum system which would cause the misread (however it would not cause an actual decrease in boost from the blower).
Also, are you 100% positive you have a 3.25 pulley in there? Maybe Loren made some mistake shipping you the parts, without seeing the two pulleys next to each other (or measuring) it's difficult to tell which one is which.
If money is an issue right now, I would just say, live with your current setup (and the noise). No need in taking it off until you can afford to get it rebuilt. Again, even if it needs rebuilding at this point I don't think it's worth $700 or so to get an extra 10 WHP. Personally, and I will not argue the point further, I think you're getting the right amount of power for your setup. Invest that $700 into a test-pipe, exhaust, and VB mod, as even those mods with your current possibly-broken blower would probably increase overall gains over getting the potentially-broken blower fixed.
#73
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From: Puyallup WA
Sorry man.
Just stressed out, and jumpy.
Plus you can't imagine how frustrated I am that I have tried like hell to tune this damned thing, and nothing works.
For 2 weeks I just kept hoping someone would go...Oh, Dude! You forgot to hook the thingamabob to the howsitdoozits!
Anyway, TOTALLY my bad. My sincerest apologies.
Just stressed out, and jumpy.
Plus you can't imagine how frustrated I am that I have tried like hell to tune this damned thing, and nothing works.
For 2 weeks I just kept hoping someone would go...Oh, Dude! You forgot to hook the thingamabob to the howsitdoozits!
Anyway, TOTALLY my bad. My sincerest apologies.
#74
One more thing:
I just read the post by Jay25, I think the possibility of not having a full exhaust system could potentially cause too much backpressure inside the engine to allow max boost.
The one more thing is actually that you could also be having some form of belt slip. The belt Loren sent you might be used and might slip a bit. It also could be the stock stillen belt which would be a controversial fit on a 3.25 pulley (would cause increased amount of slipping). I know for a fact 3.125 requires a smaller belt to make sure there isn't too much slack on the belt.
Look into your belt condition and size.
I just read the post by Jay25, I think the possibility of not having a full exhaust system could potentially cause too much backpressure inside the engine to allow max boost.
The one more thing is actually that you could also be having some form of belt slip. The belt Loren sent you might be used and might slip a bit. It also could be the stock stillen belt which would be a controversial fit on a 3.25 pulley (would cause increased amount of slipping). I know for a fact 3.125 requires a smaller belt to make sure there isn't too much slack on the belt.
Look into your belt condition and size.
#75
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by BrianV
IAN, do not just remove the blower and pout a filter on. You have the FMU still dumping fuel in via vaccuum. This means you'll be fuel-flooding your engine almost all of the time you're driving.
You need to return the fuel system to stock, do something about the oil feed line that was intended for the blower. As far as piping, you can use the SC piping, that's not going to be a problem (might not make as much power, but not by any significant amount {1-2HP}).
IAN, do not just remove the blower and pout a filter on. You have the FMU still dumping fuel in via vaccuum. This means you'll be fuel-flooding your engine almost all of the time you're driving.
You need to return the fuel system to stock, do something about the oil feed line that was intended for the blower. As far as piping, you can use the SC piping, that's not going to be a problem (might not make as much power, but not by any significant amount {1-2HP}).
As far as I understood, a rebuild was only about $300.
And I've already got the VB Mod. That went in at the same tiem as the SC (And I LOVE it!)
Anyway, I'm going to be waiting a few months before doing this, all the while trying, without spending any more $$$, to make even more sure it's not the car. Although I'm sure, one can never be too sure.
Also, I moved the boost guage to read directly off the manifold. no difference. But then again, that doesn't really matter if there's a pinhole somewhere.
There is still the SLIGHT possibility that my boost gauge is faulty, and that the Dyno I was on just naturally reads low. I'll find out for sure when I get my new Gauge in a couple of weeks. But if both things were true, that would be one f'ed up coincidence.
mtrai760 is probably coming over tomorrow with a vacuum gauge, that also will tell me if there's something wrong with my current gauge.
I know what will make me feel better...wasting some Mustangs and Ludes at the track! Yeah! I'm going down there the next day they're open!
IanS
#76
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From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by BrianV
One more thing:
I just read the post by Jay25, I think the possibility of not having a full exhaust system could potentially cause too much backpressure inside the engine to allow max boost.
The one more thing is actually that you could also be having some form of belt slip. The belt Loren sent you might be used and might slip a bit. It also could be the stock stillen belt which would be a controversial fit on a 3.25 pulley (would cause increased amount of slipping). I know for a fact 3.125 requires a smaller belt to make sure there isn't too much slack on the belt.
Look into your belt condition and size.
One more thing:
I just read the post by Jay25, I think the possibility of not having a full exhaust system could potentially cause too much backpressure inside the engine to allow max boost.
The one more thing is actually that you could also be having some form of belt slip. The belt Loren sent you might be used and might slip a bit. It also could be the stock stillen belt which would be a controversial fit on a 3.25 pulley (would cause increased amount of slipping). I know for a fact 3.125 requires a smaller belt to make sure there isn't too much slack on the belt.
Look into your belt condition and size.
Loren sent the stock pulley, I've tried comparing them to make sure. The one on there is definately quite a bit smaller. (You didn't ask this Brian, but someone else did)
Loren also specifically sent me 2 belts. One for the stock pulley and one for the 3.25"....Both in brand new condition. The 3.25" one is smaller.
He even told me the part number for the 3.25" belt because he said I should buy a new one in 15,000 miles or so.
I tried tightening my belt WAY past spec for 2 Dyno runs just to make sure. No difference. (60 degree deflection)
IanS
#77
Hmm well, good luck, is mtrai going to test the guage or plug another guage into your system?
I'm going to post a new thread for automatic 4th gen SC maxima's and let's see what mods people have and what power they're making at 6pounds.
I can't think of many that will be making 230+ on 6psi with just intake and exhaust.
I'm going to post a new thread for automatic 4th gen SC maxima's and let's see what mods people have and what power they're making at 6pounds.
I can't think of many that will be making 230+ on 6psi with just intake and exhaust.
#78
Corrections...
The FMU will not cause you to run rich. It will not raise the fuel pressure until it see's boost. You can leave it on.
Not having a good exhaust set up will not cause low boost on a belt driven supercharger. Havine a good flowing exhaust will net you more power from the same boost level then a car with a poor flowing exhaust.
You can buy an inexpensive cap or plug for the oil line from a hardware store that sells plumbing flare fittings, they are the same.
Not having a good exhaust set up will not cause low boost on a belt driven supercharger. Havine a good flowing exhaust will net you more power from the same boost level then a car with a poor flowing exhaust.
You can buy an inexpensive cap or plug for the oil line from a hardware store that sells plumbing flare fittings, they are the same.
#79
Re: Corrections...
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
The FMU will not cause you to run rich. It will not raise the fuel pressure until it see's boost. You can leave it on.
Not having a good exhaust set up will not cause low boost on a belt driven supercharger. Havine a good flowing exhaust will net you more power from the same boost level then a car with a poor flowing exhaust.
You can buy an inexpensive cap or plug for the oil line from a hardware store that sells plumbing flare fittings, they are the same.
The FMU will not cause you to run rich. It will not raise the fuel pressure until it see's boost. You can leave it on.
Not having a good exhaust set up will not cause low boost on a belt driven supercharger. Havine a good flowing exhaust will net you more power from the same boost level then a car with a poor flowing exhaust.
You can buy an inexpensive cap or plug for the oil line from a hardware store that sells plumbing flare fittings, they are the same.
Also, if you disconnect the vaccuum line from the FMU would the aux fuel pump be a restriction in the fuel lines?
#80
Re: Re: Corrections...
Originally posted by BrianV
But even at 0 vaccuum isn't the aux pump still dumping more fuel.
Also, if you disconnect the vaccuum line from the FMU would the aux fuel pump be a restriction in the fuel lines?
But even at 0 vaccuum isn't the aux pump still dumping more fuel.
Also, if you disconnect the vaccuum line from the FMU would the aux fuel pump be a restriction in the fuel lines?